Avoiding the ugly stage?!?

[Exotrezy]

yea you need to have nitrate and phosphate to at least know your nutrient levels. Salifert makes good ones and if you want to spend the money, Hanna will give you an exact reading (with an implied margin of error of course).

I can measure nitrate but need to buy phosphate

 

[Exotrezy]

So the diatom bloom is fueled by silicates which new rock/equiptment/sand has excess of. You just add a clean up crew to munch on them and continue regular maintenance and as they use up silicate, they eventually subside. So, CUC, continue good husbandry, and wait.... and be silently judged by friends and family who know nothing about reef tanks and think you must be doing something wrong to have such a "dirty" tank.

Family know about it lol, cause I had 1 2 years back and it got covered with diatoms as I knew nothing about saltwater, but my family now does cause I explained it more and stuff.

 

[Exotrezy]

So the diatom bloom is fueled by silicates which new rock/equiptment/sand has excess of. You just add a clean up crew to munch on them and continue regular maintenance and as they use up silicate, they eventually subside. So, CUC, continue good husbandry, and wait.... and be silently judged by friends and family who know nothing about reef tanks and think you must be doing something wrong to have such a "dirty" tank.

Recommendations for CUC? its a 30 gallon 3ft tank, no sump

 

[Sdoutreefer]

What should I do about my diatoms, I know they have barely came but I started getting brown spots that I think are diatoms. Check out post on my profile for pics and let me know what I can do.

Let the diatoms do its thing. Have patience. They will clear up.

 

[Exotrezy]

Let the diatoms do its thing. Have patience. They will clear up.

Ok, thanks for the advice! Your amazing!

 

[Sdoutreefer]

Ok, thanks for the advice! Your amazing!

Sure! If they hang for longer than 2-3 weeks, I'd start looking at your water source...

 

[Tamberav]

Recommendations for CUC? its a 30 gallon 3ft tank, no sump

Just get a mix of the common snails, trochus, cernith, nerite, don't buy like a crap ton as they can starve later when the diatoms start to go but they can help manage the numbers and get an early start on any other algae that may show up.

 

[Sdoutreefer]

Recommendations for CUC? its a 30 gallon 3ft tank, no sump

Start with some trochus snails. I'd get maybe 5-8. Then once you see some other algae (turf, GHA, film) introduce hermits. Blue legs and scarlets (true scarlets) do the best IMO.

If you can get your hands on a Turbo Trochus, pick one of those up too.

As your tank develops and evolves, you'll need to add a bigger variety. My #1 in my CUC is my Tuxedo Urchin. He's a beast.

 

[Exotrezy]

Sure! If they hang for longer than 2-3 weeks, I'd start looking at your water source...

I run an RODI, it is an aquaticlife 200GPD RO and a BRS DI

 

[BryanM]

Recommendations for CUC? its a 30 gallon 3ft tank, no sump

I like this site: https://www.reefcleaners.org/

 

[Exotrezy]

I like this site: https://www.reefcleaners.org/

Start with some trochus snails. I'd get maybe 5-8. Then once you see some other algae (turf, GHA, film) introduce hermits. Blue legs and scarlets (true scarlets) do the best IMO.

If you can get your hands on a Turbo Trochus, pick one of those up too.

As your tank develops and evolves, you'll need to add a bigger variety. My #1 in my CUC is my Tuxedo Urchin. He's a beast.

Just get a mix of the common snails, trochus, cernith, nerite, don't buy like a crap ton as they can starve later when the diatoms start to go but they can help manage the numbers and get an early start on any other algae that may show up.

Just wanted to say one last thing, I am going to go and purchase a silicate tester so that I can test my tap, RODI, and tank water. I am going to see if maybe my RODI isn't fully getting the silicates and then probably replace the cartridge. So far the diatoms haven't really grew probably due to the blue light and maybe there isn't enough silicate. Also I was going to buy a yellow watchman goby even before this happened but I am thinking could this be a good time as it would help stir up the sand and eat the algae?

 

[Tamberav]

Just wanted to say one last thing, I am going to go and purchase a silicate tester so that I can test my tap, RODI, and tank water. I am going to see if maybe my RODI isn't fully getting the silicates and then probably replace the cartridge. So far the diatoms haven't really grew probably due to the blue light and maybe there isn't enough silicate. Also I was going to buy a yellow watchman goby even before this happened but I am thinking could this be a good time as it would help stir up the sand and eat the algae?

I am not sure I would waste money on testing silicates, seems yours showed up 2 days ago.

Plus many things can look like diatoms and actually are not. So if you are trying to get to the root cause of something then you would probably want to properly ID it first with a microscope.

Not sure what you are chasing here...

unless you suspect something wrong with your water filter?

 

[Lasse]

So the diatom bloom is fueled by silicates which new rock/equiptment/sand has excess of.

This is not a true explanation because I have had situations there my Si has rise to very high concentrations without creating any diatom bloom. But it have been in tanks with measurable PO4 concentrations - not in a new tank with no/low PO4. Si concentrations in a normal reef tank is around 100 - 200 µg/L because of leaks from stones. I have had around 17 000 µg/L Si without any diatom bloom. ICP from Triton Lab

IMO - its a myth that diatom blooms is driven by Si concentrations in the tank water - they are instead - IMO - driven by low PO4 concentrations that outcompetes other organisms for space because the others not get enough of P in order to grow fast. When it is measurable PO4 in the water - the green algae will outcompete the diatoms for space because higher growth-rate.

But they are not difficult to be rid of - snails, urchins, hermits and Bristletooth tangs are good diatom predators.

About time and size of the CUC. As early and many as possible is my answer as soon as you switch the light on. If you wait until you see some algae - you've already lost the battle. Golden rule - if you switch on the light - introduce a sufficiently large and varied CUC - do not wait. There is food - even if you can´t spot it.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Exotrezy]

I am not sure I would waste money on testing silicates, seems yours showed up 2 days ago.

Plus many things can look like diatoms and actually are not. So if you are trying to get to the root cause of something then you would probably want to properly ID it first with a microscope.

Not sure what you are chasing here...

unless you suspect something wrong with your water filter?

Well I think I am going to test silicates in 2-3 weeks as you said the diatoms should go away and if they doesn’t, then it is most likelymy water so I can test the water and maybe replace cartridges. I don’t know if I can ID it by looking at it in a microscope but I can try. Also do you think I can get a yellow watchman?

 

[Exotrezy]

This is not a true explanation because I have had situations there my Si has rise to very high concentrations without creating any diatom bloom. But it have been in tanks with measurable PO4 concentrations - not in a new tank with no/low PO4. Si concentrations in a normal reef tank is around 100 - 200 µg/L because of leaks from stones. I have had around 17 000 µg/L Si without any diatom bloom. ICP from Triton Lab

IMO - its a myth that diatom blooms is driven by Si concentrations in the tank water - they are instead - IMO - driven by low PO4 concentrations that outcompetes other organisms for space because the others not get enough of P in order to grow fast. When it is measurable PO4 in the water - the green algae will outcompete the diatoms for space because higher growth-rate.

But they are not difficult to be rid of - snails, urchins, hermits and Bristletooth tangs are good diatom predators.

About time and size of the CUC. As early and many as possible is my answer as soon as you switch the light on. If you wait until you see some algae - you've already lost the battle. Golden rule - if you switch on the light - introduce a sufficiently large and varied CUC - do not wait. There is food - even if you can´t spot it.

Sincerely Lasse

So should I test my PO4? Can you check my post and tell me if I should get CUC?

 

[Exotrezy]

This is not a true explanation because I have had situations there my Si has rise to very high concentrations without creating any diatom bloom. But it have been in tanks with measurable PO4 concentrations - not in a new tank with no/low PO4. Si concentrations in a normal reef tank is around 100 - 200 µg/L because of leaks from stones. I have had around 17 000 µg/L Si without any diatom bloom. ICP from Triton Lab

IMO - its a myth that diatom blooms is driven by Si concentrations in the tank water - they are instead - IMO - driven by low PO4 concentrations that outcompetes other organisms for space because the others not get enough of P in order to grow fast. When it is measurable PO4 in the water - the green algae will outcompete the diatoms for space because higher growth-rate.

But they are not difficult to be rid of - snails, urchins, hermits and Bristletooth tangs are good diatom predators.

About time and size of the CUC. As early and many as possible is my answer as soon as you switch the light on. If you wait until you see some algae - you've already lost the battle. Golden rule - if you switch on the light - introduce a sufficiently large and varied CUC - do not wait. There is food - even if you can´t spot it.

Sincerely Lasse

Is there an explanation on where the PO4 comes from? Is it supposed to get removed by RODI? I am trying to eliminate my choices and find the source

 

[Lasse]

So should I test my PO4? Can you check my post and tell me if I should get CUC?

Link? But it can be difficult to give advises - you must self try to compile the information you get in this thread and come to your own decision

Si in reef tanks comes from sand and stones. There is an equilibrium constant that determines how much is in the stone/sand and in the water. There is a constant movement either out of the stone/sand or into the stone/sand depending on the current equilibrium.

PO4 comes from food and and decomposition of organic matter

Sincerely Lasse

 

[lbacha]

I recommend going to a site like reef cleaners and getting a cuc package for a tank 50-75% the size of your tank. Turn the lights all on (blue only is just lower light and slows things down in my opinion). Once you see green film algae growing stabilize your alk levels at something g above 7 (doesn’t matter what it is just keep it stable and >7 and less than 12) this will ensure coralline will grow and the green algae growth indicates you have enough nutrients in your tank. Once you start growing algae (green or coralline) you are at a good place. You will need to make sure you keep your nutrients up but not too high as this could cause that to take over if your cuc isn’t up to removing it. (Nitrates 10-20 phosphates <.15 but never 0).

Working through the uglies is all about understanding your tank and how to hit a stable equilibrium. Experience is key to this as you will learn to look at your tank and know if a parameter is off. This is why new reefers struggle with uglies so long. Once you let something go too long you can get Dino’s, GHA outbreaks, etc. you could have avoided these with constant testing and knowledgeable observation. Most new hobbiests don’t do this and as a result they work through all these issues but the benifit is you learn how to treat them as even experienced reefers run into these issue. The difference is experienced e has taught them how to deal with the problem before it becomes critical.

My final advice is all these issues can be worked through and once the tank is mature and you know how to keep it stable they are less likely to occur. This is why people always say focus on patience vs avoiding the uglies (it is a more reliable method for new reefers).

 

[Exotrezy]

I recommend going to a site like reef cleaners and getting a cuc package for a tank 50-75% the size of your tank. Turn the lights all on (blue only is just lower light and slows things down in my opinion). Once you see green film algae growing stabilize your alk levels at something g above 7 (doesn’t matter what it is just keep it stable and >7 and less than 12) this will ensure coralline will grow and the green algae growth indicates you have enough nutrients in your tank. Once you start growing algae (green or coralline) you are at a good place. You will need to make sure you keep your nutrients up but not too high as this could cause that to take over if your cuc isn’t up to removing it. (Nitrates 10-20 phosphates <.15 but never 0).

Working through the uglies is all about understanding your tank and how to hit a stable equilibrium. Experience is key to this as you will learn to look at your tank and know if a parameter is off. This is why new reefers struggle with uglies so long. Once you let something go too long you can get Dino’s, GHA outbreaks, etc. you could have avoided these with constant testing and knowledgeable observation. Most new hobbiests don’t do this and as a result they work through all these issues but the benifit is you learn how to treat them as even experienced reefers run into these issue. The difference is experienced e has taught them how to deal with the problem before it becomes critical.

My final advice is all these issues can be worked through and once the tank is mature and you know how to keep it stable they are less likely to occur. This is why people always say focus on patience vs avoiding the uglies (it is a more reliable method for new reefers).

Is this to OP or to me?

 

[Exotrezy]

Link? But it can be difficult to give advises - you must self try to compile the information you get in this thread and come to your own decision

Si in reef tanks comes from sand and stones. There is an equilibrium constant that determines how much is in the stone/sand and in the water. There is a constant movement either out of the stone/sand or into the stone/sand depending on the current equilibrium.

PO4 comes from food and and decomposition of organic matter

Sincerely Lasse

Need HELP with CUC for Diatoms!!

Hello, I started my tank in October and I am using RODI water. I have 1 bumblebee Snail that was a hitchhiker from one of my coral. My tank is a 3ft long 30 gallon tank. Let me know Clean Up Crew suggestions. I attached a couple of pictures and 1 video. Also the "diatoms" randomly appeared with...

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