B’s 65 Gallon Build Thread! Come on in!

[Be102]

Bump

 

[Be102]

Anyone got any ideas?

 

[Be102]

Bump... got more questions lol.

So I make my RODI in my basement 4 floors down and then lug 5 gallon buckets all the way up. Because of this I never tend to do water changes ( I know I’m the worst) anyways my tank seems happy (obviously not as much as it could be! )

so I want to potentially look into hooking my ro up to my sink in my bathroom underneath if I can get the approval and thensince my room is right next door I want to run a line through the wall to my closet where I would have a potential water storage setup!

What’s the protocol for this?
I see I need one of those T adapters from brs I just don’t know if that’s what I need specifically for my setup. Also I do not understand the other clip thing that I think is for the waste line??

any advice is great. I attached some pics!

 

[Be102]

Bump

 

[thaistalyn]

I'd suggest going back and watching the BRS video that shows how to hook up a RODI under the sink. I'll link it below at the start point of a "under the sink hook up style".

- As he recommends in the video I'd avoid the "piercing" tee and go to home depot or Lowes and ask for a Tee Adapter. The tee should be 3/8" female on one end, 3/8" male on the other and the middle (Tee) should be a 1/4" male for your RODI supply line. Also ask for a 1/4" compression fitting to attach to your RODI hose.

- For the drain, just follow the video directions and get the BRS Drain Saddle. You drill a hole in your drain and attach the saddle.

Below is the link to the video I mentioned above.

 

[Be102]

I'd suggest going back and watching the BRS video that shows how to hook up a RODI under the sink. I'll link it below at the start point of a "under the sink hook up style".

- As he recommends in the video I'd avoid the "piercing" tee and go to home depot or Lowes and ask for a Tee Adapter. The tee should be 3/8" female on one end, 3/8" male on the other and the middle (Tee) should be a 1/4" male for your RODI supply line. Also ask for a 1/4" compression fitting to attach to your RODI hose.

- For the drain, just follow the video directions and get the BRS Drain Saddle. You drill a hole in your drain and attach the saddle.

Below is the link to the video I mentioned above.

Thanks buddy!

 

[Be102]

i wonder if I am better off with the Tee adaptor or one of these https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/john-guest-angle-stop-valve.html

I only ask as doesn’t this allow me to turn on or off water production rather than relying on that line always on / the ball valve keeping it off?

 

[thaistalyn]

That stop valve is fine, especially if you are going to make your RODI station temporary. Or you just put a push to fit valve in your RODI tubing line like the guy mentions in the video. Those RODI kits normally come with a valve in line for supply and drains.

 

[JoshH]

i wonder if I am better off with the Tee adaptor or one of these https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/john-guest-angle-stop-valve.html

I only ask as doesn’t this allow me to turn on or off water production rather than relying on that line always on / the ball valve keeping it off?

That JG valve is the only one I ever reccomend. It's the best valve going and readily connects to sink plumbing. With metal threads it's long lasting, super easy to install and just as easy to remove if needed. I would also add another valve right at the input of your RODI unit for ease of shutting off and turning on, for a few bucks it's worth the convenience.

Also @Be102, I forget do you own this place you're living in or is it a rental?

 

[Be102]

That JG valve is the only one I ever reccomend. It's the best valves going and readily connects to sink plumbing. With metal threads it's long lasting, super easy to install and just as easy to remove if needed. I would also add another valve right at the input of your RODI unit for ease of shutting off and turning on, for a few bucks it's worth the convenience.

Also @Be102, I forget do you own this place you're living in or is it a rental?

Josh my friend I am only lucky to say I own my live rocks and a whole lot of salt water junk!!

Lol living in the city is impossible to own anything @ 24 ... ok my rant is over !

I live with the owner of the house who has put up with my crazy ideas and me flooding the kitchen and all this fun stuff. I’m just trying to really plan out all the parts so I can be convincing! Maybe it would help with me doing water changes when I don’t have to lug stuff back and forth up and down the stairs.

basically if I went under the sink from this picture through the wall a little bit I would be able to run the ro/ tubing and then connect the waste under the sink.

then I have to then dive into the rabbit hole of shut off valves because as I’ve already done numerous times wasforget I had a sink running and made water everywhere ! (Hence why I’ve been doing it in the basement!)

I think it’s possible. Biggest hurdle will be getting the approval lol.. yet again if it’s under a sink and easily attachable I don’t see why there should be any problems. Other than leaks of course.


Any one have anything to add about my previous Icp test? Or the plan for a cover for my sump or anything else?

 

[Be102]

;Droid

 

[Be102]

Bump... any ideas to help silence this? Noisiest part of my tank now and can’t figure it out..

 

[Jon Fishman]

Anyone with advice?

One small thing..... I can’t help with plumbing, but I would put the heater in the sump, and hide the thermometer in the overflow box.

The beauty of having a sump is you get to hide your gear

 

[Jon Fishman]

Bump... with another question!! I want to do two things to my tank and don’t know the route for either. The first is I want to use something like egg crate ( can’t cause the size doesn’t work with the spacing ) to block my overflow box from my big snails from entering it. I’ve had It happen twice so far! Where a large snail will get in and wedge against the overflow intake valve and then tank level rises. And of course with my luck I have float valves for overflowering in my sump and in the actual overflow box as if it would get clogged on its way to the sump but not at the actual inside tank/ overflow box side / in tank. So I got flooded! Now it’s just me hoping it doesn’t happen again ....

Anyways the next problem I have isn’t really a problem but I am curious if I can grow chaeto in my sump. I can put it in my fuge except I need to one add a light but also if I did that I need to switch the type of lid I have as it’s colored. Any ideas??

Add light, remove lid.

 

[Be102]

One small thing..... I can’t help with plumbing, but I would put the heater in the sump, and hide the thermometer in the overflow box.

The beauty of having a sump is you get to hide your gear

Perhaps I have really old pics.. my heater is in my sump next to my return as well as I have a temp probe for my ProfiLux in my sump in a probe holder. I don’t have an actual thermometer anywhere.. I don’t think?

 

[Be102]

Add light, remove lid.

Leave it open 24/7 and deal w evap? Not a big deal!! Just asking lol. I think this will be an easier /cheaper maybe even more effective way than a reactor. I don’t have fish or anything really going just yet but in the future I can add it!

 

[Hyde2406]

Hi,

Sound Like you have a good handle on things. Sorry about the clowns. Sometimes it can be frustrating. I used to love clowns, kept tomato clowns for the longest time. Had one 5 to 6 years old. He died of brook or velvet. Since then I have not owned a clown.

With an established sump it should have an established pod community that can sustain the mandarin. I would use that time to work on getting him onto frozen just in case he rips thru the pods. Algae barns also sells different pods in a pinch.

As for maintenance don’t be hard on yourself. No water change tanks are done, but done with a plan and not just by stopping maintenance. Just keep an eye on the essentials. I think I see what you are doing with the rock, is it trying to build up the scape? I’ve never used that product. If you are adding it into the tank I would say add it in a piece by piece. There is a possibility of a ammonia spike while the rock is building up its bed, but more I would think it would throw off the balance off all the other numbers like alk and ph since the rock will be sucking it up.

Just a few thoughts. After line 3 though my thoughts do wander. That’s why I have back up to proof read my stuff @Peace River

a little new rock at a time unless you decide to just take a hit get it all in and let it run a new cycle you don't have much bio load it probably would work out great either way... Good luck

 

[Be102]

a little new rock at a time unless you decide to just take a hit get it all in and let it run a new cycle you don't have much bio load it probably would work out great either way... Good luck

What’s the worst thing from a cycle rather than algae? I just got some corals and inverts so not too worried about killing my fish. I do however have an extreme amount of live rock / a marine pure that I feel will give me good coverage for the adding or even taking live rock away.

Thanks for stopping by!

 

[Be102]

Still need some guidance for something for my overflow box as well as how to quiet my sump. I got a stockman that made the overflow box itself quiet now it’s just noisy in the input of my sump. I’ve tried closing a gate valve, tried raising return pump , tried lowering return pump speeed and even tried varying flow from manifold to the fuge and still can’t get it quiet.. it’s not really noisy it just sounds as if it’s pulling lots of air in.. only way it doesn’t sound like is if I completely close the gate valve and make a siphon basically which is ok just don’t think it’s the only idea

 

[Be102]

Pics