Ball valve wont open

Tuffyyyyy

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I would cut at these spots, add a union under the overflow, and then get the gray ball valve from BRS to replace the one you have.

44653D9B-8C67-4465-87B7-A15C7A3FA79E.jpeg
 

W1ngz

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Everyone is saying 'union ball valve'! Change the ball valve! But no one is asking what that line does or what we're looking at.

Is that one of three drain lines, or one of two and the third is the return? If that's a drain line, you should be replacing it with a pair of unions and a GATE valve, not a ball valve. Being able to make fine adjustments is going to be a lot easier.
 
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somechinesereefer

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Everyone is saying 'union ball valve'! Change the ball valve! But no one is asking what that line does or what we're looking at.

Is that one of three drain lines, or one of two and the third is the return? If that's a drain line, you should be replacing it with a pair of unions and a GATE valve, not a ball valve. Being able to make fine adjustments is going to be a lot easier.

The left and right are drains and the middle is the return
 

robbyg

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When I have hit into problems like this I cut them out with a Dremel. I would cut it an inch below the green line in the photo and then cut out the elbow and remove the whole thing so it's easier to work on. Then use the Dremel again and cut a right at the green line, that way you will have a nice cut.

When it comes to bulk heads I don't want to put any stress on the area and the Dremel is perfect for that. And for Gods sake use a Gate valve for everything! Yes they are expensive but they don't get stuck and they are inline serviceable.
 
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somechinesereefer

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I would cut at these spots, add a union under the overflow, and then get the gray ball valve from BRS to replace the one you have.

44653D9B-8C67-4465-87B7-A15C7A3FA79E.jpeg

What and how should I cut it?

with a pvc cutter? do i loosen the bulkhead before attempting to cut at the top green line?
 

StatelineReefer

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Let's not get into cutting yet... boil water, drop a hand towel into it. With oven mitts, or something that's heat resistant, wrap the hand towel around the valve handle, and twice around the bulge. Let that cool to where you can touch it with ungloved hands. Take the towel away and turn as if you were CLOSING the valve, then open the valve.

If that doesn't work, THEN you should cut.
 

Reefnman2

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If you have the room I would take 2 pieces of 10 or 12 in. pipe slightly bigger than the handles slide them over the handles and you'll get a lot better leverage and open it that way.
 

W1ngz

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Here's my problem with using voodoo to get the valve to open.

It's stuck now. It will stick again. Only next time it will be in a live, running system, and pushing it risks weakening joints and putting stress on the bulkhead, risking far more problems than just a stuck valve. Those valves are known for this, and no one who has built a system once with them uses them the second time.

The plumbing on that tank was done in a hurry with no attention to detail, using the cheapest quickly available parts the seller could find. Judging by the number of couplers in there instead of clean pipe, the whole thing has already been sliced up twice to fix mistakes.

Tear out that whole line, and redo it properly, using new pipe, a new bulkhead unions and a gate valve.
 
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somechinesereefer

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Here's my problem with using voodoo to get the valve to open.

It's stuck now. It will stick again. Only next time it will be in a live, running system, and pushing it risks weakening joints and putting stress on the bulkhead, risking far more problems than just a stuck valve. Those valves are known for this, and no one who has built a system once with them uses them the second time.

The plumbing on that tank was done in a hurry with no attention to detail, using the cheapest quickly available parts the seller could find. Judging by the number of couplers in there instead of clean pipe, the whole thing has already been sliced up twice to fix mistakes.

Tear out that whole line, and redo it properly, using new pipe, a new bulkhead unions and a gate valve.

Could you give me a breakdown on how to tear it out properly as if I were 5? I've never done plumbing before so I'm concerned about the right way to do it...
 

W1ngz

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Buy this:

Cut here:
1370274-a3d68d1e684a368a400aca34e0b02684.jpg


Remove the bulkhead.
Throw it all away.

Replace it with this:

Plus elbows and PVC pipe you can find at the hardware store.
 
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somechinesereefer

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Buy this:

Cut here:
1370274-a3d68d1e684a368a400aca34e0b02684.jpg


Remove the bulkhead.
Throw it all away.

Replace it with this:

Plus elbows and PVC pipe you can find at the hardware store.

Thank you so much for the detailed pictures and response!

With that cutter should I loosen the bulkhead nut first so I'm not putting too much torque on the bulkhead? I dont want to crack the tank...

Any reason why slip to slip vs threaded? Id have to cement the PVC to the slip to slip gate valves right?
 

W1ngz

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That cutter won't put any force on the tank, it will just cut through the pipe.

If you buy the new pipe first, you will have plenty to practice on.
 

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