Battleing with cyano for the 5th month, - what am I missing?

[Katze]

Have you asked if they can order you some in?

I believe it is plausible, I'll ask tomorrow.

 

[KStatefan]

They would compete with the cyano, but a scrubber isn't available for me, it isn't sold in my region.

OK

I am just following along to see what your solution is.

I have a algae scrubber and still have cyano like you.

 

[Katze]

Did I mention that my lights run 12-11/day 100% ? Could that be a problem?

 

[jason2459]

I don't think I saw this but have you started vacuuming the sandbed? With that skimmer I'm assuming it's not a huge aquarium.

As for the ATS you could DIY but it's just a tool to help but probably wouldn't cure the problem already in place. And I'm a big fan of having an ATS.

 

[KrisReef]

Hey !

Here's everything that you have to know:
-regular red cyano-
Tank age >1.5
Fish: 6, 1 large 5 small

Chemistry:
Using RODI water with a tds of 0

NO3: 25 after 1.5 yrs of 100
PO4: 0.06
Kh: 8.6

Filtration: Red Sea RSK300, filter sock(s) cleaned bi-daily.

Light:
Maxspect ethereal, settings: (%)
Green: 93
UV: 93
Blue: 100
Cool White: 60-70
Warm White: 23

The cyano seems to hurt my zoas, (partially) that's why I want to obliterate it.
I may use chemicals for this, but for now I'd like a natural fix.

Any Ideas?

Cyanobacteria are photosynthetic

Blue light reduces photosynthetic efficiency of cyanobacteria through an imbalance between photosystems I and II

Several studies have described that cyanobacteria use blue light less efficiently for photosynthesis than most eukaryotic phototrophs, but comprehensive studies of this phenomenon are lacking. Here, we study the effect of blue (450 nm), orange ...

www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

Maybe dial the white and cool white to zero and blue to 70?
And photo period to less than 12 hours, 8 hours seems like enough for zoas.

 

[Katze]

I don't think I saw this but have you started vacuuming the sandbed? With that skimmer I'm assuming it's not a huge aquarium.

As for the ATS you could DIY but it's just a tool to help but probably wouldn't cure the problem already in place. And I'm a big fan of having an ATS.

No not yet, it's 55g (200l) What's an ATS If I may ask?

Cyanobacteria are photosynthetic

Blue light reduces photosynthetic efficiency of cyanobacteria through an imbalance between photosystems I and II

Several studies have described that cyanobacteria use blue light less efficiently for photosynthesis than most eukaryotic phototrophs, but comprehensive studies of this phenomenon are lacking. Here, we study the effect of blue (450 nm), orange ...

www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

Maybe dial the white and cool white to zero and blue to 70?
And photo period to less than 12 hours, 8 hours seems like enough for zoas.

That could work but I'd lose a lot of PAR, since I cannot increase total intensity like with radions or AI leds, I can absolutely decrease the time the lights are on.

 

[jason2459]

No not yet, it's 55g (200l) What's an ATS If I may ask?

Algae Turf Scrubber.

I have a Turbo Aquatics and a WSR right now I'm playing with. Can see them and my experience so far with them here in my build thread.

Build Thread - Jason's Tank Journey

One thing I did change is the lighting. This canopy is kind of unique in how it pivots open. I wanted something that wouldn't make the canopy to heavy and that would move with it easily. Also, I got a really good deal at about 50% off new price on the Aqua Illumination Hydra 32HDs. I got 4 of...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[Shawn H!]

Well, yes.

Limpets and turbo snails, however I have a lot of cyano.

John @ Reef Cleaners will make a custom clean up crew suggestion. He helped get rid of the new tank syndrome in my tank.

 

[lubeck]

Consistent maintenance is key. Stay the course with regular water changes and good flow. The lighting schedule could be adjusted as suggested above.

I think most of us go through this stage. It eventually goes away. I had it for over 6 months

have you tried hydrogen peroxide

 

[MixedMax]

Hey !

Here's everything that you have to know:
-regular red cyano-
Tank age >1.5
Fish: 6, 1 large 5 small

Chemistry:
Using RODI water with a tds of 0

NO3: 25 after 1.5 yrs of 100
PO4: 0.06
Kh: 8.6

Filtration: Red Sea RSK300, filter sock(s) cleaned bi-daily.

Light:
Maxspect ethereal, settings: (%)
Green: 93
UV: 93
Blue: 100
Cool White: 60-70
Warm White: 23

The cyano seems to hurt my zoas, (partially) that's why I want to obliterate it.
I may use chemicals for this, but for now I'd like a natural fix.

Any Ideas?

Hey !

Here's everything that you have to know:
-regular red cyano-
Tank age >1.5
Fish: 6, 1 large 5 small

Chemistry:
Using RODI water with a tds of 0

NO3: 25 after 1.5 yrs of 100
PO4: 0.06
Kh: 8.6

Filtration: Red Sea RSK300, filter sock(s) cleaned bi-daily.

Light:
Maxspect ethereal, settings: (%)
Green: 93
UV: 93
Blue: 100
Cool White: 60-70
Warm White: 23

The cyano seems to hurt my zoas, (partially) that's why I want to obliterate it.
I may use chemicals for this, but for now I'd like a natural fix.

Any Ideas?

i had a very similar issue a fews years back. Couple solutions that worked well for me, turn the greens down, daily manual removal and dose mb7 daily. 2 weeks persistent

 

[Katze]

Consistent maintenance is key. Stay the course with regular water changes and good flow. The lighting schedule could be adjusted as suggested above.

I think most of us go through this stage. It eventually goes away. I had it for over 6 months

have you tried hydrogen peroxide

Yeah, often times it killed the coral.
In terms of lighting, I'll get the ICV6 for the Ethereal today, so I can better tune the photo period.

 

[homer1475]

Only way to combat it if it's on the sandbed, clean the sandbed. It's the rotting decay that is causing it.

Regular maintenance is the only natural way to combat cyano. You can use things like red slime remover, etc, but, if you don't fix the underlying issue(cleaning the sandbed), it will only come back after a while.

 

[Katze]

Only way to combat it if it's on the sandbed, clean the sandbed. It's the rotting decay that is causing it.

Regular maintenance is the only natural way to combat cyano. You can use things like red slime remover, etc, but, if you don't fix the underlying issue(cleaning the sandbed), it will only come back after a while.

My favourite part in maintenance is waterchange, however, messing with the sandbed won't cause bad things to happen ? Like po4 spike etc.?

 

[lubeck]

My favourite part in maintenance is waterchange, however, messing with the sandbed won't cause bad things to happen ? Like po4 spike etc.?

You vacuum portions of the sand bed each water change right? That is a must. It will help and will take a while but it will improve if you’re persistent.

do you have any pics of the tank and sand?

if you have a deep sand bed just vacuum the top inch or so.

I resolved mine by only keeping a half inch of sand and vacuum all of it (what I can reach) each week.

 

[Katze]

You vacuum portions of the sand bed each water change right? That is a must. It will help and will take a while but it will improve if you’re persistent.

do you have any pics of the tank and sand?

if you have a deep sand bed just vacuum the top inch or so.

I resolved mine by only keeping a half inch of sand and vacuum all of it (what I can reach) each week.

Mine is only 1-2cm deep, less than an inch.