best preset for radion

Alisha

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Hello I was wondering if anyone knows which preset is the best for radions? I have 4 radions over my 8 foot long tank which is only 16 inches tall, also what should I have the intensity at? Currently it's at 15% because my corals were bleaching.
 

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With out knowing the details, I give a generic idea of what I see ( and myself) others do when new to leds and Radions.
With Radions, I always tell people to start out using the acclimation program. I would go 4-5 weeks on acclimation.
I would start out with the lights atleast 8"-9" over the tank. Depending on the previous lighting, start out at 30%-35% and go to 65%.
I used the Radiant preset program for the first year or so with mine. Now I use a modified High Growth program.

How high are the Radions over your tank?
What was the previous lighting and what corals do you have?
 

twilliard

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Also to note that sufficient nutrients are needed at high light levels.
Being at 15% may be an indicator of the lack of nutrients
 

mfinn

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Also to note that sufficient nutrients are needed at high light levels.
Being at 15% may be an indicator of the lack of nutrients

I took the bleaching statement as a sign the lights were at a higher intensity previously ( without acclimation ) and bleaching occurred. Thus the 15% intensity now.
 

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I think if you are looking for presets, the radiant color preset is a nice one. When looking at your presets make sure you are not trying to run on a setting like high growth or shallow reef. They will tend to be a more powerful mix of using white, green and red which can help torch your corals. Also what radions are you using?
 

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Also to note that sufficient nutrients are needed at high light levels.
Being at 15% may be an indicator of the lack of nutrients

I took the bleaching statement as a sign the lights were at a higher intensity previously ( without acclimation ) and bleaching occurred. Thus the 15% intensity now.
And often these are both one in the same. IME IMO the main reason to acclimate is the differences in nutrient and mineral content and the animals "digestive" reaction to the spectral and intensity change when changing lights and tanks.
Sudden overdose of a spectrum at a targeted cartenoid or Zooanthelene that has gotten used "slow matabolisation"(poor spectrum or low intensity) with too much or too few minerals &/or nutrients in its system is like severe indigestion. Or like a starving man suddenly gorging. (see Napoleons army return from russia). They die from the sudden shock to the metabolism, not a "sunburn".
The animal's(and symbiotic plant therein ) ,systems need time to adjust the to the increase in spectral food.

Quick Nag:D. A $15 lux meter can guide you through acclimation and lighting upgrade($75 for a Milwaukee). It tests light intensity for exactly this reason. Like testing ammonia and ALK, a quantifiable number & parameter.
With the meter and presets you can VERY easily start the acclimation and ramp up to the full presets.

Congratulations BTW. Those are GREAT lights!
 
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Alisha

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We had everything in a 210 then had a custom tank built so we just switched everything over. We had the radions on the 210, I believe the intensity was around 40-60% at that time. I can't remember what we had them set once we switched tanks to be honest we may have even forgot to change the intensity. Once we noticed the bleaching I dropped the intensity a few times then once I hit 15% i left it at that. I believe 2 radions are Gen 1 and 2 are Gen 2. Thanks everyone for the help!
 
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Alisha

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I thought of trying the acclimation setting but I was kind of confused on what intensity it was going to end on. I seen where I could choose the starting intensity but not the ending, and I was nervous that it would end up to high for a shallow tank?
 

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I thought of trying the acclimation setting but I was kind of confused on what intensity it was going to end on. I seen where I could choose the starting intensity but not the ending, and I was nervous that it would end up to high for a shallow tank?
yea good call.

its why im a meter guy.

But if you can remember the last setting on the old tank, and guesstimate the distance from the light to the top of first coral, (50% closer??, cut the peak intensity in half and subtract 20 or 30% for safety, you should be ok. Then slowly ramp it up from there.

Keep an eye on the corals fro bleaching and browing, and the corraline.

If it gets too confusing, go back to the meter method and set peak the light intensity to 13,ooo lux, and build from there on the acclimation schedule.(to your targeted intensity)
If you had a par meter it would be around 150 to 200 par at the top of the tank, and build from there,(to your targeted par)

its actually the same method as if you just got them from the LFS.
 

mfinn

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We had everything in a 210 then had a custom tank built so we just switched everything over. We had the radions on the 210, I believe the intensity was around 40-60% at that time. I can't remember what we had them set once we switched tanks to be honest we may have even forgot to change the intensity. Once we noticed the bleaching I dropped the intensity a few times then once I hit 15% i left it at that. I believe 2 radions are Gen 1 and 2 are Gen 2. Thanks everyone for the help!
So you started out in the shorter tank at the same intensity as the taller tank.
Even for a short time the higher intensity can light shock corals and they are bleaching. So will continue to show the affects ( effects?) of the sudden higher intensity , some will recover faster. I actually lost a couple euphyllia just from using a led fixture at near 100% for a couple hours to take pictures, the first time any of my tanks saw leds.

So, if it were me, I would still do the acclimation program for 4-5 weeks, starting at 25%-30%, and go to 60% providing your fixtures are more that 8"-9" over the tank.
 
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Alisha

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I'm not positive if we left the intensity the same or not but it's a definitely a possibility! :( Thanks for all the info I'll switch to the acclimation setting, we have the radion mounts so the lights are about 8 inches from the water. Thanks again :)
 
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Alisha

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yea good call.

its why im a meter guy.

But if you can remember the last setting on the old tank, and guesstimate the distance from the light to the top of first coral, (50% closer??, cut the peak intensity in half and subtract 20 or 30% for safety, you should be ok. Then slowly ramp it up from there.

Keep an eye on the corals fro bleaching and browing, and the corraline.

If it gets too confusing, go back to the meter method and set peak the light intensity to 13,ooo lux, and build from there on the acclimation schedule.(to your targeted intensity)
If you had a par meter it would be around 150 to 200 par at the top of the tank, and build from there,(to your targeted par)

its actually the same method as if you just got them from the LFS.
Thanks, what do you mean when you say keep an eye on the coraline,Coraline is good right?
 

saltyfilmfolks

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Thanks, what do you mean when you say keep an eye on the coraline,Coraline is good right?
yes. Recently I added t5 to my leds in the DT. I lowered the intensity during acclimation according to the meter. Corals did great, visibly better actually even though the was actually less intensity but better spectrum.
BUT the corraline in the tallest rocks and spots high up on the back wall bleached. Light shock. :eek::oops::)
 
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Alisha

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I didn't know coraline bleached, thanks for the info! :)
 
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Alisha

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I didn't know coraline bleached, thanks for the info! :)
 

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can a Lux meter be used to check the par output? or must a par meter be used...
 

Daniel Poh

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is there anyone who has got some gen2pro puck sitting around at home after an upgrade to gen3pro etc.. as I have 3sets of gen1 which I am looking to upgrade to the gen2pro version...
 

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