Best way to cycle new tank with old tank?

[BaileysTank]

So pretty much I’m upgrading from a 55gal to a 90gal.I’ve had my 55 for about 3 years and it’s very mature, I’ll be using everything from the frist tank in my new tank.in the tank tank I’m also adding about 50% more dry rock. Im just wondering if there is a good method to allowingy new tank to cycle quickly and proficiently.

 

[Spare time]

False!!

Cycling bacteria is airborne. Just the same as yeast that makes bread, beer, champagne ect ect.

It IS in the water, no matter how much people say it is not.

How does it get to the rocks without going through the water?


As I said, it is not as much as what is in the rocks, but it IS in the water. And for the purpose of a "dark cure" there is more than enough to seed a bunch of dry rock.

PLEASE stop posting this falsehood!

What are you talking about? Marine cycling bacteria found in aquariums doesn't float around in the air. If you are going to make those claims at least back them up. You are also claiming to know more about the topic than something with a PhD in that exact bacteria type (i.e. Dr Tim). Putting it into a bottle is different but the reason you have to vigorously shake the bottle before it goes in is because they cling to the walls of the bottle. You are saying people are making false statements and then back up your claims with nothing while disagreeing with information provided by an expert on that exact bacteria. I am just going to leave the video here since I don't have time to debate claims without (non-anecdotal) evidence.

 

[landlubber]

If this is possible, then by all means do it. I cured my rock for several weeks ahead of time but honestly, it didn't really help as much as I had hoped.

First, new dry rock is incredibly dusty. What nobody ever tell you is it is not a matter of just dumping dry rock into a can and filling it with water for a while. You need to swish that rock around and get as much of the dust away as you can. Then refill the can and do it again. Basically, you need to do at least 5 or 6 times to get rid of the dust.

Best to do this on water change day so you are using water that already has the cycling bacteria in it.

Next, this step is really only needed for dust removal on an upgrade build like this.

The current rocks have all the cycling bacteria needed to skip-cycle an upgrade build. Think about it... if it supports the life in a 55, it will support the same life in a 90, 135, 700 all the same. Assuming of course that you don't add anything new to the new build right away.

Also, if you plan to "cure" rock this way, you need to "ghost feed" that rock. What that means is you need to add food to the can of rock as if it had fish inside. You need a source of ammonia for the cycling process, rotting food will do that. This is a step that is also overlooked by many. Even if you use a few chunks of existing rock from your established tank, if you do not feed the bacteria, they die off.

it honestly depends on the origin of the rock.
Marco is just concrete so its going to set up considerably cleaner than pukani that has natural ocean organics clinging to it. The first step i'd be taking with any rock on a new build would be a good pressure wash and i'd likely incorporate a water change halfway through as well.

 

[Jedi1199]

What are you talking about? Marine cycling bacteria found in aquariums doesn't float around in the air. If you are going to make those claims at least back them up. You are also claiming to know more about the topic than something with a PhD in that exact bacteria type (i.e. Dr Tim). Putting it into a bottle is different but the reason you have to vigorously shake the bottle before it goes in is because they cling to the walls of the bottle. You are saying people are making false statements and then back up your claims with nothing while disagreeing with information provided by an expert on that exact bacteria. I am just going to leave the video here since I don't have time to debate claims without (non-anecdotal) evidence.

I am basing my advice on PERSONAL EXPERIENCE! Not on the information in advertisements from a commercial entity.

You say I lack evidence? I disagree. My own tank is evidence enough.

We have sadly derailed the thread of the OP here.

The actual question is "Best way to cycle new tank with old tank?".

The original post I provided at the beginning is absolutely spot on. I have done it personally many times.

 

[Jedi1199]

@brandon429

Thoughts?

Comments?

 

[Jedi1199]

What are you talking about? Marine cycling bacteria found in aquariums doesn't float around in the air. If you are going to make those claims at least back them up

Fine. How does a fish in cycle work? Have you ever done it? I have. I have never once added cycling bacteria from a bottle to any tank I have ever set up. In 37-38 years, not once, not ever!! Amazingly, every tank I have ever set up has cycled. fish in, fishless it doesn't matter.

How does this happen?

Back in the early 90's and late 80's when I started aquarium keeping, a "fish in cycle" was the norm. We set up the tank, added a few cheap fish and let the cycle run. Amazingly, EVERY tank cycled. How did this happen if we did not add bottled bacteria?

Before you say, it must have been the rocks, or whatever.. keep in mind, back then, we didn't use RODI. We used tap water with whatever salt mix we could find at the LFS.

I set up fresh and salt tanks at least a dozen times back then. Same result.. tank cycled without ever adding bottles. Straight up dry rock, dry sand, a couple cheap fish and voila, cycled tank.

What?? This is impossible!! FACT is this is absolutely possible.

The answer is simple. the bacterial strains are airborne. They find a way into the tank just like they find a way into bread dough or beer.

Now, if you live in Backwater, Nebraska, it may take longer to happen, but it will happen anyway.

 

[Lost in the Sauce]

Has aqua biome run this test?

Seems that would be the definitive answer, no?

 

[Jedi1199]

Has aqua biome run this test?

Seems that would be the definitive answer, no?

Seems to me that you are convinced that what you have read is right and anything that conflicts with that is wrong. Perhaps I come off the same way.

As I said, I base all of this on personal experience.

 

[Lost in the Sauce]

Seems to me that you are convinced that what you have read is right and anything that conflicts with that is wrong.

As I said, I base all of this on personal experience.

Bro What?

Besides the fact that thus far, our understanding of this is the Same, that was a question, posed for discussion, on this Forum.

Chill homie.

 

[olonmv]

So pretty much I’m upgrading from a 55gal to a 90gal.I’ve had my 55 for about 3 years and it’s very mature, I’ll be using everything from the frist tank in my new tank.in the tank tank I’m also adding about 50% more dry rock. Im just wondering if there is a good method to allowingy new tank to cycle quickly and proficiently.

No need you’re using established rocks.

 

[Jedi1199]

Bro What?

Besides the fact that thus far, our understanding of this is the Same, that was a question, posed for discussion, on this Forum.

Chill homie.

IDK if any recognized science entity has verified my own findings.

I am posting my own experience.

 

[SteveMM62Reef]

When I went from my 45 Gallon to my 65 Gallon, I swapped water between them, instead of water changes. Started Stirring the Gravel up a Little at a time, until I was stirring all that I could reach. Put new Mixed Media Gravel in the 65, and Transferred Gravel and Live Rock over a 1/4 Section at a time, over eight days. Didn’t loose a single thing. I did have a small ugly stage. No Nitrogen Cycle Spikes.

 

[LRT]

Depending on how much live rock you move over, it should skip a traditionally cycle immediately. The only way it would not, is if you immediately had a higher bioload, than your old rock can manage.

Do not move over your sand, without washing it first. Half a bucket at a time, garden hose on Blast, wash all of the junk off until the water is clean. At that point, it's safe to reuse.

Yes. Everything lost said to a T.
Keep your params dialed from the moment you transfer live stock to new tank. Don't be surprised if you come of the gate using same alk, cal from day 1 and you should be all set.
Don't forget to play your critters some funky tracks in the interim while they blow up
My tank in Build thread has been rolling fully stocked since day 1.
My shroom kinds love the following track at least once a day.

 

[BrandoCommando]

God I love this hobby. Funky fresh tracks for a funky fresh tank. Setting up my new IM 15 tomorrow. This has inspired jams and serious biome thoughts

 

[BaliReefBox]

2 weeks ago I transferred from a 20gal to a 50 gal. Used all the water I could get out, all the rock, all the sand(was only 3mths old) added new dead dry rock and there was no ammonia spike at all. No mini cycle just straight back to normal... Only thing I would suggest is to mimic the current flow, lighting that you currently have. I am only new but did have 5 nice sps colonies. They all died with the exception of the orange digi that may make it. I feel my error was the addition of an extra light and new current flows. I assumed wrongly i feel, that adding an extra light but having an extra 4" of depth would negate the increase in par.....They didnt like something...These sps are primadonas

 

[aSaltyKlown]

Two months ago I merged my EVO and WB20 Cube into a 40 breeder. Used about 25 gallons of water from old tanks so I didn't have to make 40 gallons. Took two hours to transfer, with no spikes, and no casualties. I did rinse my from the EVO as it was 2 years old. I actually just added that sand on Saturday and it sat outside in the tank since Sept 1. It had leaves, algae, and all sorts of junk in it. Rinsed it, then added a bit of bleach, soaked it, and rinsed it again, no issues. As folks have said, your rock alone will carry the bio load of your current stock. I'd only rinse the new rock, it will be susceptible to algae, just keep on top of it if it does start to break out.

 

[LRT]

It's extremely important to match and keep old tank parameters to a T. Lights, temp, salinity, alk, cal, mag. Don't let nutrients bottom out. Be extra prepared to dose nutrients if you have to. It all comes down to matching and keeping same regimen from old tank in transfer tank. Clean everything up in old tank water before you transfer and you should be all set. I feel like alot of people underestimate how quickly new tank transfers take off. Pretty much without skipping a beat if you follow all the steps. I think this is likely where the true losses come into play.

 

[bobnicaragua]

When I went from a 65 gal to a 135, I stuffed my 65 with live rock and ceramic media for a month or 2 before the transfer. The new tank was bare bottom, so I wanted to have plenty if biological filtration.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Do not use existing tank water. That does absolutely 0. Bacteria doesn't live in the water column, not enough to matter.

Be real careful with using existing media if you have aiptasia, hair algae, etc. You'll have it in the new tank as well because you'll introduce it.

I agree 100% that using old tank water won't help with the cycle, but I wouldn't say "don't use it.". There's no reason you can't use the old water in lieu of mixing brand new...

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

it honestly depends on the origin of the rock.
Marco is just concrete so its going to set up considerably cleaner than pukani that has natural ocean organics clinging to it. The first step i'd be taking with any rock on a new build would be a good pressure wash and i'd likely incorporate a water change halfway through as well.

Marco is not concrete... Life Rock is.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

IDK if any recognized science entity has verified my own findings.

I am posting my own experience.

And yet, you're posting as if it's proven fact and no one else's comments/experience (or science) is correct.

THIS is the problem