Best way to supplement kalk?

[Evan West]

So I dose kalkwaser to keep my alk and cal up but the sps are not showing their best colors, thinking this might be die to a lack of mag and maybe other things? So I'm wondering how to supplement my lack dosing in and easy way.

 

[PAXpress]

You'll want to look into something with trace elements. You should be monitoring your magnesium probably biweekly and keeping it at least at 1250 I'd say I'm sure others will say higher. Trace elements you wont be able to EASILY test for (its possible but without something like triton or $$$ in test kits its not easy) maybe look into a good trace elements dosing liquid like red sea's? Or try supplementing with more frequent water changes.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I'd measure magnesium before dosing it.

 

[Evan West]

Well I tested and now im a tad lost:

Mg: 1440
Alk: 7.2 (a bit low)
Cal: 470
Ph: 8.1 (Usually 8.2-3)

So idk what is causing the sps color fade

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Too much light, or not enough nutints most likely.

 

[Velcro]

Too much light, or not enough nutints most likely.

Agree. Parameters that are listed are fine. Sounds like a nutrient issue.

 

[bif24701]

This is how I do it and I think is best.

32 gallon Brute

Add two cups Kalk

Add ~1L 5% white vinegar

Fill Brute with RO/DI to the top and mix gently thoroughly. Place lid on Brute.

Use BRS 50ml/min top off pump and magnetic tube holder at bottom of Brute, just ~.5-1" above settlement.

Then I use my APEX EB8 relay socket and program it to run 4min every .5 hours. Place pump output just above water in sump.

Monitor ALK and water level changes/fluctuations.

This is very simple system thus fewer components to depend on that could fail. The APEX relay socket is far more likely to fail in OFF/Open position so it it did fail wouldn't create a crash/disaster.


As for your real problem:

Test your nutrient levels, NO3 and PO4. You need some nutrients for corals to live or lots of feeding and supplements. I have ~.03 PO4 and ~4-8ppm NO3.

 

[Velcro]

This is how I do it and I think is best.

32 gallon Brute

Add two cups Kalk

Add ~1L 5% white vinegar

Fill Brute with RO/DI to the top and mix gently thoroughly. Place lid on Brute.

Use BRS 50ml/min top off pump and magnetic tube holder at bottom of Brute, just ~.5-1" above settlement.

Then I use my APEX EB8 relay socket and program it to run 4min every .5 hours. Place pump output just above water in sump.

Monitor ALK and water level changes/fluctuations.

This is very simple system thus fewer components to depend on that could fail. The APEX relay socket is far more likely to fail in OFF/Open position so it it did fail wouldn't create a crash/disaster.

I also much prefer dosing with a precise dosing method vs adding to ATO due to variable evaporation in my home.

 

[Evan West]

Could be light I supose.....ive got 2 a360we 8" off the water over a 20g long running 30%. 12" max water depth. But nothing else but a few of the sps show any sign of too much light

 

[JC Slater]

Hey Even, as Bif mentioned above, we (you) also need to know what the Nitrate and Phopsphate levels are. Generally with Alk in the low 7's near NSW, you need/want ultra low nutrients and suppliment with feedings. If you have some nutrients in the system, get the Alk above 8 (I read somewhere there was some anecdotal evidence to a 8.x number sweet spot but I cant remember). There is a balance you have to find between nutrients and water params. Also with higher nutients and when running higher alk/ca bump up the lights. 2x 360s does seem like a lot on a shallow tank.

Honestly Im not a fan of dosing Kalk through an ATO. Just seems to variable when trying to stay in a specific range from day to day and I do not see consistent evap rates. I like 2 part and dose mag when needed (which is rare actually) but Im dosing about 1.0 dhk Alk per night (like 10 ml or so I just dump in the tank + equal amount of Ca) Good thing to do there is get Alk reading at 7:00 am and 7:00 pm and determine roughly how much alk was consumed in that 12 hours. If it consistently consumes 1 dlk of alk per day, figure out how many ML of alk will raise your tank's alk +1 dhk this will take some trial and error. I try not to raise more than 1 dkh per 24 hours to take that into affect, can be tricky to dial in.

Anyways, got any pics of the SPS? With that amount of light and low alk, I would assume you are having some sort of either nitrate or phosphate issue that you need to lower, OR raise the alk up to 8.8 dkh and bump up the lights by 2% until they start to color up. If they are browning, probably have too many nutrients. If they are bleaching quickly, I'd start lowering light intensity, or rather move the corals lower if its possible.

 

[Velcro]

Could be light I supose.....ive got 2 a360we 8" off the water over a 20g long running 30%. 12" max water depth. But nothing else but a few of the sps show any sign of too much light

I think you might be local to me. If so I have a PAR meter that I rent cheap to people.

 

[Evan West]

Hey Even, as Bif mentioned above, we (you) also need to know what the Nitrate and Phopsphate levels are. Generally with Alk in the low 7's near NSW, you need/want ultra low nutrients and suppliment with feedings. If you have some nutrients in the system, get the Alk above 8 (I read somewhere there was some anecdotal evidence to a 8.x number sweet spot but I cant remember). There is a balance you have to find between nutrients and water params. Also with higher nutients and when running higher alk/ca bump up the lights. 2x 360s does seem like a lot on a shallow tank.

Honestly Im not a fan of dosing Kalk through an ATO. Just seems to variable when trying to stay in a specific range from day to day and I do not see consistent evap rates. I like 2 part and dose mag when needed (which is rare actually) but Im dosing about 1.0 dhk Alk per night (like 10 ml or so I just dump in the tank + equal amount of Ca) Good thing to do there is get Alk reading at 7:00 am and 7:00 pm and determine roughly how much alk was consumed in that 12 hours. If it consistently consumes 1 dlk of alk per day, figure out how many ML of alk will raise your tank's alk +1 dhk this will take some trial and error. I try not to raise more than 1 dkh per 24 hours to take that into affect, can be tricky to dial in.

Anyways, got any pics of the SPS? With that amount of light and low alk, I would assume you are having some sort of either nitrate or phosphate issue that you need to lower, OR raise the alk up to 8.8 dkh and bump up the lights by 2% until they start to color up. If they are browning, probably have too many nutrients. If they are bleaching quickly, I'd start lowering light intensity, or rather move the corals lower if its possible.

I have the two of them due to shading issues back when i just had one as a point source, tho i will test nitrate and phosphate now. Also i dose alk via a doser not ATO

I think you might be local to me. If so I have a PAR meter that I rent cheap to people.

Your an hour or two away but the closest person I have met that has one so you should defiantly PM me. also also nice sube

 

[Evan West]

Yep absolutely 0 ppm No3 and Po4

 

[Evan West]

So im gathering, raise alk to 8+ and i can feed reef chili more as i previously only did once a week, and lower or raise light?

 

[Velcro]

Feed more or get some nitrate and phosphate additives. I have a pretty hard time getting phosphate to register without dosing it (hanna ultra low range phosphorous). I dose seachem flourish phosphorous. I think they make a nitrogen one as well.

 

[Evan West]

I get the No3 being an issue but don't you want phosphorus at 0?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I get the No3 being an issue but don't you want phosphorus at 0?

0.01 to 0.02 ppm phosphate is usually a good value. With some kits, that's just zero, since they cannot read low enough.

 

[Velcro]

I get the No3 being an issue but don't you want phosphorus at 0?

I like 0.05-0.1. It keeps dino's in check. If I am 0.01 or less I know because the brown slimy strings start to appear. I also get tissue recession/STN from phosphates <0.01.

 

[Velcro]

I get the No3 being an issue but don't you want phosphorus at 0?

This is what 12ppm NO3 and 0.08ppm phosphate looks like in my tank.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/149503827@N08/

 

[Evan West]

0.01 to 0.02 ppm phosphate is usually a good value. With some kits, that's just zero, since they cannot read low enough.

Fair enough, so after looking around I'm considering getting either the red sea part A and B combo or the Korallen-Zucht coral system for non zeovit tanks. And then raising the alk to 8+. I'll also feed more reef chili for now at least as that should help.