Bleached Yellow tenuis

[sassyonmane]

Bought a blue tenuis and yellow tenuis, the blue one settled in amazing in just a day and had fluffy polyp extention but the yellow never showed any and eventually started losing color and slowly bleached out / lost all its fluorescent proteins,

This then followed up by the very tip of the coral losing its tissue and a bit of algae growing on the skeleton but i kept it around and yesterday i noticed faint fluorescence in the edges of the corralites, however, due to the tip being covered with algae (not long macro algae type but just green algae film covered skeleton) will it cover the algae skeleton and grow over? or will i have to, after it fully recovers sand off the tip with algae to let the tissue cover?

 

[EnterName]

It's possible the coral dies and the algae will overgrow it, or it manages to recover and the hair algae will be fought off. I currently have a tiny spec of algae on a Chalice and after a first hydrogen peroxide dip it's already looking much better. Using tweezers to remove the algae didn't do much as the filaments stay intact at the bottom.

I would not dip an already stressed coral in something quite aggressive like H2O2, so you might want to wait for it to recover and use tweezers in the meantime. Alternatively you can only dip the affected tip. Acropora and most other corals deal very well being exposed to air for a while as tides cause this to happen in nature as well.

Whenever I order SPS they lose a lot of fluorescence, but as long as they don't shed their tissue (except tiny parts on the tips maybe) they can recover when your parameters, flow, and light are good.

Be patient and don't mess too much with the frag. Every change in location, flow, and light is another stress factor for now.

 

[sassyonmane]

It's possible the coral dies and the algae will overgrow it, or it manages to recover and the hair algae will be fought off. I currently have a tiny spec of algae on a Chalice and after a first hydrogen peroxide dip it's already looking much better. Using tweezers to remove the algae didn't do much as the filaments stay intact at the bottom.

I would not dip an already stressed coral in something quite aggressive like H2O2, so you might want to wait for it to recover and use tweezers in the meantime. Alternatively you can only dip the affected tip. Acropora and most other corals deal very well being exposed to air for a while as tides cause this to happen in nature as well.

Whenever I order SPS they lose a lot of fluorescence, but as long as they don't shed their tissue (except tiny parts on the tips maybe) they can recover when your parameters, flow, and light are good.

Be patient and don't mess too much with the frag. Every change in location, flow, and light is another stress factor for now.

I have tangs, angels and a foxface that keeps the algae trimmed on it, should i use any dips like iodine? or just set and forget

 

[EnterName]

It's possible the coral dies and the algae will overgrow it, or it manages to recover and the hair algae will be fought off. I currently have a tiny spec of algae on a Chalice and after a first hydrogen peroxide dip it's already looking much better. Using tweezers to remove the algae didn't do much as the filaments stay intact at the bottom.

I would not dip an already stressed coral in something quite aggressive like H2O2, so you might want to wait for it to recover and use tweezers in the meantime. Alternatively you can only dip the affected tip. Acropora and most other corals deal very well being exposed to air for a while as tides cause this to happen in nature as well.

Whenever I order SPS they lose a lot of fluorescence, but as long as they don't shed their tissue (except tiny parts on the tips maybe) they can recover when your parameters, flow, and light are good.

Be patient and don't mess too much with the frag. Every change in location, flow, and light is another stress factor for now.

I have tangs, angels and a foxface that keeps the algae trimmed on it, should i use any dips like iodine? or just set and forget

Iodine is quite harsh on corals so I would avoid it. There is a reason why most coral dips are iodine free by now. I would leave it for now and once it got its color back and seems to be growing its base but doesn't seem to manage getting rid of the algae you can consider a hydrogen peroxide dip: https://humble.fish/community/threads/peroxide-dipping-guidelines-for-corals.4715/

 

[sassyonmane]

Iodine is quite harsh on corals so I would avoid it. There is a reason why most coral dips are iodine free by now. I would leave it for now and once it got its color back and seems to be growing its base but doesn't seem to manage getting rid of the algae you can consider a hydrogen peroxide dip: https://humble.fish/community/threads/peroxide-dipping-guidelines-for-corals.4715/

I thought iodine dips were standard / the best for disinfection after fragging etc

 

[EnterName]

Iodine is quite harsh on corals so I would avoid it. There is a reason why most coral dips are iodine free by now. I would leave it for now and once it got its color back and seems to be growing its base but doesn't seem to manage getting rid of the algae you can consider a hydrogen peroxide dip: https://humble.fish/community/threads/peroxide-dipping-guidelines-for-corals.4715/

I thought iodine dips were standard / the best for disinfection after fragging etc

Iodine dips certainly disinfect. But that doesn't make them gentle on already stressed corals. It's like putting alcohol directly on a wound. Yes for a moment it's disinfected but you are dehydrating cells and causing damage that can increase the chance of getting infected.

If you happen to have a microscope you can see the severe effect of iodine on pretty much all life within seconds. It gets adsorbed by any tissue and stains everything. Nothing moves immediately after impact even when using heavily diluted iodine solutions.

 

[sassyonmane]

Iodine dips certainly disinfect. But that doesn't make them gentle on already stressed corals. It's like putting alcohol directly on a wound. Yes for a moment it's disinfected but you are dehydrating cells and causing damage that can increase the chance of getting infected.

If you happen to have a microscope you can see the severe effect of iodine on pretty much all life within seconds. It gets adsorbed by any tissue and stains everything. Nothing moves immediately after impact even when using heavily diluted iodine solutions.

ive been using high concentration long iodine dips for every coral, good to know