Blitzkragz' 12ft 375g rimless peninsula with rotary drum filter build
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blitzkragz
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I don't plan on having a full top, I enjoy watching the surface of the water too much. But I have some minimalist ideas I have been tossing around for something similar but slimmer than https://www.bananaquarium.com/fg My understanding is that 90% of jumps happen within 1.5in of the rim. So if i can come up with something nearly invisible around the edges I'll give that a shot first.
I have 7 threadfin cardinals in Qt that will be first. But I honestly don't have a solid stocking plan yet. Right now, I just can't stop looking at the thing even without fish in it. There are two Maxspect xf350's going in anti-sync (with 2 more coming this week), and just watching the water shift on the surface and the sand dune ripples they make that look just like you see snorkling in the bahamas is memorizing.
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Devaji
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WOW amazing! love the size, peninsula tanks are the best. keep us posted
I want to see the beauty come to life.
interesting lid idea. lots of cool idea here. you sir are a trail blazer and not a sheep!
I dream everyday about a large peninsula tank. what is the thickness of the glass?
I want to see the beauty come to life.
interesting lid idea. lots of cool idea here. you sir are a trail blazer and not a sheep!
I dream everyday about a large peninsula tank. what is the thickness of the glass?
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blitzkragz
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Thanks! The glass thickness is 3/4".
joe berkman
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Watching. and blown away. Totol insperation thanx for sharring..
How is the flow from the Maxspect?
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blitzkragz
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I don't have any experience with the previous Gyre versions, so I can't really make a comparison. But I am really happy with these XF350's so far. The purported benefits of the 3 series are they are silent and can be placed closer to the surface of the water.
I can confirm they are about as quiet as one could ask for the amount of water they are moving. If my wife can't hear them, that means its good!
As far as positioning them, my hope was to be able to position it basically just below the surface. The lowest I have been able to get them under the surface without sucking a vortex at 100% is around 1.25 inches. So I have a second pair on order (for 2 on each side) to attempt getting the same flow from two at 50% as one at 100% and position them right at the surface without the vortex.
I plan to hide the cords as much as possible, running them along the black corners of the tank, and routing grooves into the inner cabinetry for the cords to disappear into.
I have been playing around with the settings, and have a lot more experimenting to do getting them tuned to a 12' tank. I have them in anti-sync, where the pump on one side goes forward and the other side goes reverse. Then at a certain interval, they swap directions. It is really awesome to watch this back and forth motion across the surface.
My inspiration to use the anti-sync mode was the below Maxspect video I saw of an 8' tank and the sand dune patterns it makes, which I absolutely love the realism of and can confirm I get the same dunes (video below is not my tank, it is just to illustrate the dunes in anti-sync mode).
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blitzkragz
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This weekend was all about LIGHTS. Still have some finishing trim to do. But the result, the most minimal yet legit-for-reef lighting setup I could plan:
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dantimdad
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blitzkragz
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blitzkragz
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The build of the lighting bar took a ton of time and there are many details that I neglected to document. If anyone legitimately plans to build something like it, I would be happy to share more as to parts list, etc.
Using "liquid electrical tape" to coat joints of extension wiring in the Kessils:
I color coded wiring as it got thicker through the channel according to the light it goes to:
For years, I had been looking for an excuse to get a bench mill and lathe from littlemachineshop.com. This build is what put me over the edge and took the plunge. The custom nature of many aspects of this build wouldn't have been possible without them:
Using "liquid electrical tape" to coat joints of extension wiring in the Kessils:
I color coded wiring as it got thicker through the channel according to the light it goes to:
For years, I had been looking for an excuse to get a bench mill and lathe from littlemachineshop.com. This build is what put me over the edge and took the plunge. The custom nature of many aspects of this build wouldn't have been possible without them:
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blitzkragz
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One thing I still needed to add to the light bar was the USB-C connectivity between the Kessils, and eventually to a Spectral Controller X.
After buying one of the right angle adapters commonly sold for these lights I was really unhappy with how bulky it was. Also, I needed runs of just 2 feet between lights (not 6' or 10' as the cables are typically sold). So after getting samples of various cords I settled on these really low profile right-angle usb-c cables that were only 1' long each: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BTVPKBB
And of course, they needed to be white!
The only issue with those though were one of the ends is standard USB. So I got some double-female usb adapters, and using a razor blade stripped off the bulky black encasing so they would just fit in the rail.
When I milled the aluminum bar, I added notches for the planned USB cables to run into:
These right-angle USB cables were just low profile enough to be flush with the height of the bar and the Kessil knobs:
I can confirm it works! Turning a knob on one of the lights dims all 6 at once.
After buying one of the right angle adapters commonly sold for these lights I was really unhappy with how bulky it was. Also, I needed runs of just 2 feet between lights (not 6' or 10' as the cables are typically sold). So after getting samples of various cords I settled on these really low profile right-angle usb-c cables that were only 1' long each: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BTVPKBB
And of course, they needed to be white!
The only issue with those though were one of the ends is standard USB. So I got some double-female usb adapters, and using a razor blade stripped off the bulky black encasing so they would just fit in the rail.
When I milled the aluminum bar, I added notches for the planned USB cables to run into:
These right-angle USB cables were just low profile enough to be flush with the height of the bar and the Kessil knobs:
I can confirm it works! Turning a knob on one of the lights dims all 6 at once.
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This project has a great vision! Everything looks awesome. What overflow did you end up using? 12 feet looks amazing but I feel like the flow challenges seem daunting without a closed loop or any power heads on the main viewing panels other than that gyre. How is the aquarium progressing at this point?
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