Breeding System Frame

[qterry22]

So after reading what feels like endless amounts of information, talking back and forth with a few forum goers, and picking some carpenters brains I am still at a loss as to how to safely and adequately build my breeding system frame/stand.

I don't know how to design this thing.

Here are the dimensions of space I need.

5' long x 40"deep x 6' high/tall(top shelf)

I was going to use 4x4's for the vertical post and 2x4 for the edges (perpendicular to the 4x4 post) where the tank rims would rest. I also plan on using 3/4" plywood to rest across the 2x4's to create the shelving space. Is it totally necessary to have the tanks rims resting on the 2x4's?

My biggest questions are how to joint the wood? Should I have a center and middle support? Will 2x4's be strong enough to support the weight. Should I use carriage bolts to fasten the joints and wood together? This would also make it modular in the event I want to relocate the system.

My station would have 4-5 10 gallon brood-stock tanks on the top shelf, 3-4 20 gallon breeders as grow outs, and each have a separate sump and live rock container that would flow into the sumps.

Any and all feed back is much appreciated. This forum rocks and I couldn't ask for a better place or collective group of enthusiasts to get advice from.

Thanks

Q

 

[Just Clownin Around]

you do not need a 40" deep rack for what you are loking to build, take my advice and build it three inches longer than what you actually need. my 10 gallon tank sits on a 24" shelf. setup is braced every 16" on center with a main brace that is tapconed to the floor in the middle of the shelf. overkill yes but it protect thousands of dollars in fish

 

[qterry22]

Thanks for the feedback. The depth was to allow me to put the 20gallons longways. It's should also provide some extra space for larger growout tanks in the future without worrying about the depth of the rack.

 

[qterry22]

Another update.

I am so close to finishing my broodstock setup. I finally got some pictures and would like to share them. Once my pump, filter media, and materials to finish plumbing comes in I can begin cycling the system. If there is any way out there that someone knows to safely speed up the cycling without any adverse long or short term effects I am all ears.


This will be for my broodstock. The plumbing is 1.5" drains with a 1" feed. I have yet to drill the tanks. Waiting on my order from bulkreefsupply. I used a hump method for my return pipe that someone posted in another forum. (Thanks for the idea

)


Currently a workbench lol. However this is where my growout tanks will go. I havent started plumbing for this yet. Will work on it once my broodstocks are up and running. I have enough space for (4) growouts and some culturing. Most likely I will do culturing in the garage.


There are two sumps. One for each system. There is also 14 gallon tubs that will be used to increase water volume, add cermic media (1 1/2” SPHERES MARINEPURE CERAMIC BIOMEDIA. Hope they are as good as they boasts.), and free my sumps up for other equipment. The pumps are external Reeflo Hammerhead Hybrids. Flow should not be a problem. I might have to dial it back some but I already have the plumbing laid out on how to effectively dial it back and save on electricity without harming the pump itself. The skimmer is a coralife 220. Grabbed it off craigslist and is currently enjoying a vinegar/water bath. It was covered with coraline algae. As for now this is all the equipment and filtering I will have.....for now...lol until someone post another great idea i can steal

For heating I will have lil 10 gal heaters in each tank and a fluval digital display heater in the sump. Its a pretty big heater but shouldn't have to work to hard with the lil heaters going in the 10 gallons tanks.


This was my solution to water changes. I can open the valve and close the another that leads to the sump system. It will also allow me to accurately and easily remove exact amounts. Might be a bit OCD with water changes but whatever...


This a picture of the entire thing, or atleast as much as I could fit in the photo. Its my first system and I tried to maximize space and efficiency. I will find out shortly how well I have done. I will continue to update the project as it moves forward. Any and all feedback is welcome and appreciated. I choose to not go with dado cuts for the joints. Reason being that when I started this lil project I thought I had it all planned out and ready to go.....until I started building it. I quickly...and I mean very quickly found out that I am not the A+ shop student I was in middle and high-school. So I had a friend of the family come over and assist me with building it. He builds houses for one of the largest builders in the area as a lead supervisor and assured me that with the plywood spreading out the weight and the reinforced corners that it would be plenty sturdy to hold all the weight. I trust him. He suggested large systems might use dado joints but not for the calculated weight I will be dealing with.

Thanks
Q

 

[JPG@CFI]

Put your bio media in a different system that has a good bio load for a month or so, that should get you moving in the right direction, or use some fresh live rock. J

 

[qterry22]

That's a good idea. I will try that.

LOL after multiple suggestions and a few "thats destin for the 6' o clock news noob' comments I have decided to reinforce the entire thing. I am in the process of uploading pics now.

Please keep the feedback coming. I don't take offense to anything. If its your honest opinion I will respect it and try to take something positive from everything.

 

[JPG@CFI]

Ok, then! I'd have done your stand out of coated steel. Way stronger, and it doesn't take up the room like 2x4's do. Just say'in, J

 

[steveb]

What does the "hump" do on the return lines?

 

[qterry22]

Here is the newly reinforced system. Lol its heavier, sturdy, doesn't budge when bumped or pushed, and feels like a tank.

 

[qterry22]

Ok, then! I'd have done your stand out of coated steel. Way stronger, and it doesn't take up the room like 2x4's do. Just say'in, J

Lol...remember I am trying to keep it practical and cost effective. Coated steel would be nice...however I dont have the resources to design or build the thing.

What does the "hump" do on the return lines?

The hump ensures constant and equal pressure to each ball joint so long as I have something coming out of the runoff. In theory....I have yet to test it. But it makes sense....I will regulate the flow to ensure at least a small amount of water is coming out of the runoff. So even if all the ball joints aren't open the extra pressure would then travel to the runoff and not my tanks....and if they were all open then it would just be less water coming out of the runoff.