Brown hair algae impossible to beat!!

[Willbiker]

Hard to say exactly. The goby will definitely keep the sand clean but Dino’s would be seen on glass pumps etc. remember every tank is different. There is Dino’s in every tank it just what makes them proliferate is the key. I would not assume the cuprimine did it. Basically impossible to tell why not a plague in you QT

OK thanks. The reason I asked is I couldn't decide where to add the goby to my DT or keep it in QT until the dino was under control. I didnt know if the dino covered sand would be unhealthy for the goby but it seams he has turned it over nicely in the QT tank. It looks like the Goby will help the situation.

thanks

 

[ScottB]

You can just assume that every live marine system has some dinos present. It may only be there is cyst form and invisible to you, or just marginally hanging around awaiting conditions that allow it to outcompete.

But you could be correct about the copper. We know it will kill zooxanthellae, and they are a form of dinoflagellate.

 

[moz71]

OK thanks. The reason I asked is I couldn't decide where to add the goby to my DT or keep it in QT until the dino was under control. I didnt know if the dino covered sand would be unhealthy for the goby but it seams he has turned it over nicely in the QT tank. It looks like the Goby will help the situation.

thanks

So for reference. My goby does turn over sand well but did seem to stay away from areas that were really covered in Dino’s. With that said he is still healthy and did think he helped keep the Dino’s suspended for if to work. Just my opinion

 

[litenyaup]

I would say Dinos, 3-4 day black out and dose h202 1ml/gal every night. Make sure to turn out fuge lights as well during the black out period.

 

[Willbiker]

So for reference. My goby does turn over sand well but did seem to stay away from areas that were really covered in Dino’s. With that said he is still healthy and did think he helped keep the Dino’s suspended for if to work. Just my opinion

Thanks. I think as its unlikely to be a threat to him, I shall add him and see how he gets on..

 

[Willbiker]

Hi guys. I'm just about to dose microbacter7 to help with the dino takedown. It advises to dose 5ml per 94l for new aquariums with med to high nutrients or 5ml per 189l for low nutrient stable systems.

Or 1 drop per 25g for increasing bio load. This seams low? Should I dose the higher amount due to the circumstances?

 

[Willbiker]

So its been almost 2 months since I started this thread and started act to act against the Amphidinium Dinos. Here is what I did:

-Increased Nutrients. Phosphates at 0.1 and Nitrates at 10ppm
-Turned off Fuge light
-Added UV
-Added pods and dosed Phytoplankton
-Dosed Microbacter7 weekly
-weekly sand vacuum to remove the high concentrated areas.

The Dino has improved but not as much as I would have liked. I Would say 1/3 has gone and Hair algae is on the rocks now.

Should I see some better results by now? Do I just carry on as I am?

 

[SMSREEF]

I would try adding a couple pieces of aquaculture live rock and some live sand (the kind with all the extra life like feather dusters, mussels, worms, etc) to bring in some organisms/bacteria that will outcompete the Dino’s now that your nutrients are up.
This was what really helped me beat chrysophyte and I’m pretty sure it will help in your case too.

 

[Willbiker]

UPDATE: I think I have largely beat the amphidinium dino however I either have a mixture of dino types or iv defeated one and another has arrived! My rocks are now almost 100% clear and in the morning my sand is looking much better. But at the end of the day the sand looks much worse so it looks like I now have the type that is water bound at night. I already have a uv plumbed and I'm running carbon so ill just continue with the high nutrients and dosing microbacter7 as it's working. How frustrating that I have cocktail of dinos

Evening shot

Morning shot

 

[I’m Batman]

There’s only 500 other threads on the winter seasonal Dino’s.... keep us updated.

 

[Willbiker]

UPDATE: Still the dino battle continues...8 weeks in. Its 100% gone from the rocks and 70% gone from the sand

Before

After

I set up a 55w uv pumping from the sand bed and returning back to the tank but I don't think this made much of a differience. I also tried increasing temperature but again I'm not sure of this is the success factor. I believe the raised nutrients and microbacter7 daily dosing to be the key.

 

[I’m Batman]

Any updates on the dinos?

 

[Willbiker]

Slightly better than the above picture so very slow progress but progress! 20% left to clear, only on the sand. I think the winning formula for me was simply raised nutrients, uv, no water changes, dose bacteria.

However I've decided to replace my sandbed with a heavier grade sand as I've been experimenting with new wave makers and cant crank them above 20% without a sand storm. I'm hoping that the dino doesn't come straight back when I remove all the bacteria covered sand and replace it with new sand with no life in it. I'm expecting it to

 

[Ludders]

Following our conversation last week on sand, this is what I went for...

https://charterhouse-aquatics.com/s...RI47VowPA0Jcxt6v3OYBxtp483qMs5ogaAsEmEALw_wcB

Get a few bags of this stuff and it should in theory minimise the impact.

 

[Willbiker]

Following our conversation last week on sand, this is what I went for...

https://charterhouse-aquatics.com/s...RI47VowPA0Jcxt6v3OYBxtp483qMs5ogaAsEmEALw_wcB

Get a few bags of this stuff and it should in theory minimise the impact.

Thanks ludders. I thought long and hard about it and looked at brs videos on this live sand and I saw that a lot of the bacteria is in the water and I want to rinse the sand heavily before putting it in so I decided to get the dry version and add microbacter7 while I remove the bed in stages. Ive also got a seneye reef on order so I will be able to monitor ammonia.

The special grade looks great, perfect for higher flow tanks ...I hope. Ive got 80lbs on order

 

[Ludders]

I have a seneye, they are not only good for alerting and monitoring the stability of your tank, the PAR meter is good for setting up your lighting as well.

 

[Willbiker]

I have a seneye, they are not only good for alerting and monitoring the stability of your tank, the PAR meter is good for setting up your lighting as well.

Thats the main reason I bought it...for par readings . Do you have the web server? I'm not sure i can bring myself to spend the money haha. Some people use Windows tablets as a Web server. I'm going to look into this

 

[LegendaryCG]

You can try another couple days of tank blackout to Kill it off.

 

[Ludders]

Yeah I have the webserver, but I have taken it all offline at the moment in readiness of my new tank arrival.

https://www.seneye.me/ludders/#p=85672

 

[Ludders]

How are you getting on Will?