Brown Sediment (Settled Detrius?)

[tutmatt3]

And your auto dosing ? and doing a LOT of WC's.
The lack of corraline can be due to higer pars or alk instability. But it should still be in a lot of spots in the tank like up high in the corners.
Do you have that?

Manual dose 5ml per night into my HOB. 1x time a day(well, night) total
Raising tank by ~.25dkh

There are def random spots all over. Rocks, skimmer, back wall, etc - but def hasn't taken off yet. I assume them to be coraline. Will try n get a pic up
The ones on the back wall / equipment are kindaaaa purple, but also brownish.
The spots on the rocks are purple for sure

And I was afraid sooooo many water changes would remove any maturity my tank had, and simply replace it with just new / sterile saltwater - taking all nutrients out of the water from the corals

Back when I switched salts, I did 3x 20% water changes and a 30, which put me at ~60% new water in the tank

Then I did 2x 20%s after I suspected an issue w/ my old supplement before switching to B-ionic

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Yea in a way the absence of corraline is a bit concerning. If your keeping up with the low demand of alk ok with dosing and water changes you kinda should be seeing more.

Fwiw , if you couldn't tell, I don't think it's nutints.

My small concern and what I'm working out is, in many tanks with bad source water ,(tap bottled etc ) corraline often doesn't form.
In my high light tanks befor I began auto dosing I bladed it all off of the rocks, but still had quite a bit in the upper corners and back wall.

My point in that last thread was , if it's silicates or mineral, gfo or a binder will remove those. If it's a chloramine nothing will.

Btw, most consider the maturity to held within the rock.

 

[tutmatt3]

Yea in a way the abcence of corraline is a. It concerning. If your keeping up with the low demand of alk ok with dosing and water changes you kinda should be seeing more.

Fwiw , if you couldn't tell, I don't think it's nutints.

My small concern and what I'm working out is, in many tanks with bad source water ,(tap bottled etc ) corraline often doesn't form.
In my high light tanks befor I began auto dosing I bladed it all off of the rocks, but still had quite a bit in the upper corners and back wall.

My point in that last thread was , if it's silicates or mineral, gfo or a binder will remove those. If it's a chloramine nothing will.

Btw, most consider the maturity to held within the rock.

That makes sense. I guess a better way to say my fear of so many water changes was removing too much nutrients & making it too prestine
Understood on the rocks part

And it's hard for me to think it nutrients as well, considering the sand is pretty clean. Only back-wall I don't clean so snails can have a constant food source.
But the ONLY hair algae I have is on the Lips of my HOBs.

So in the other thread, you stated 10-20%, and every other week. Is that still what you recommend?

Heres a majority of the coarline I have. If indeed it is coraline

Upper / corners mainly have algae

Bottom back glass has a few spots like these, but a majority of these spots are on equipment.


I know its living in my tank, since I literally took a piece from the LFS off their glass, smashed it up, and sprinkled it in there lol.
That plus a lot of plugs / snails came in with some


As far as water source:
I make my own rodi using this
https://www.chewy.com/aquatic-life-ro-buddie-four-stage/dp/146155?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=hg&utm_content=Aquatic Life&utm_term=&gclid=Cj0KEQjw7pHLBRDqs-X8hZ3Mgp0BEiQAXIo9rjBzaBcxrfPN2o0qzwZBiUIQECEpbZb08BVFa4qzrz0aAl7t8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds
I also added an extra DI chamber.

I tested right now, and TDS was at 2 it was producing, so I'll change out the DI on both

For silicates - would RO / DI remove those?
For chloramine - what would be the best approach to remove those, and is there a way to test them before I attempt to remove em?

Someone told me I can use 'prime' on my water while mixing - but I don't like to add what I can't test for

Another RODI unit question:
If my TDS comes out to 0, am I in the clear? Or can I still have issues w/ my water even at 0 - for example my main chambers not working, or chloromine or something

Ugh...... tanks >_<

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

That makes sense. I guess a better way to say my fear of so many water changes was removing too much nutrients & making it too prestine
Understood on the rocks part

And it's hard for me to think it nutrients as well, considering the sand is pretty clean. Only back-wall I don't clean so snails can have a constant food source.
But the ONLY hair algae I have is on the Lips of my HOBs.

So in the other thread, you stated 10-20%, and every other week. Is that still what you recommend?

Heres a majority of the coarline I have. If indeed it is coraline

Upper / corners mainly have algae

Bottom back glass has a few spots like these, but a majority of these spots are on equipment.


I know its living in my tank, since I literally took a piece from the LFS off their glass, smashed it up, and sprinkled it in there lol.
That plus a lot of plugs / snails came in with some


As far as water source:
I make my own rodi using this
https://www.chewy.com/aquatic-life-ro-buddie-four-stage/dp/146155?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=hg&utm_content=Aquatic Life&utm_term=&gclid=Cj0KEQjw7pHLBRDqs-X8hZ3Mgp0BEiQAXIo9rjBzaBcxrfPN2o0qzwZBiUIQECEpbZb08BVFa4qzrz0aAl7t8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds
I also added an extra DI chamber.

I tested right now, and TDS was at 2 it was producing, so I'll change out the DI on both

For silicates - would RO / DI remove those?
For chloramine - what would be the best approach to remove those, and is there a way to test them before I attempt to remove em?

Someone told me I can use 'prime' on my water while mixing - but I don't like to add what I can't test for

Another RODI unit question:
If my TDS comes out to 0, am I in the clear? Or can I still have issues w/ my water even at 0 - for example my main chambers not working, or chloromine or something

Ugh...... tanks >_<

Lol. Lot to get through.
Good instinct on the WC and. Nutrints

Next time you make water. Use a glass to collect the water rinse it with rodi and then fill and test the tds. It should be zero. And other reading is something. No idea what is is.

Prime is bacteria to remove ammonia and a few metals. No need for it.

Silicates can get past a di stage. Rare. Gfo will help pull that out but that would also mean you have diatoms.

The Gha on the hob, it an algae turf scrubber. Same principal.

The little tiny bit of corraline is concerning. At Seven months it feels like you should have more.

 

[tutmatt3]

Lol. Lot to get through.
Good instinct on the WC and. Nutrints

Next time you make water. Use a glass to collect the water rinse it with rodi and then fill and test the tds. It should be zero. And other reading is something. No idea what is is.

Prime is bacteria to remove ammonia and a few metals. No need for it.

Silicates can get past a di stage. Rare. Gfo will help pull that out but that would also mean you have diatoms.

The Gha on the hob, it an algae turf scrubber. Same principal.

The little tiny bit of corraline is concerning. At Seven months it feels like you should have more.

I'll do just that to test tds

Do you think it's possible this sediment stuff are diatoms, but super charged?

I take it there something else I should use to bind silicate instead of rowa? Since rowa will also remove phosphates etc

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

I'll do just that to test tds

Do you think it's possible this sediment stuff are diatoms, but super charged?

I take it there something else I should use to bind silicate instead of rowa? Since rowa will also remove phosphates etc

Any binder works the same. Thus some of the cautions I had mentioned. If the po4 is high enough then try the gfo etc

I would have to feel it. It should be dusty. Id it's on the glass a lot , probaly is.
Look at Randy F article on diatoms and silicate dosing.

The more detailed pics of the rocks , the brown is tough to Id. The slimy stuff looks like just than and is snail food.

On maturity and tanks. The biofilter is weak when it's new. As bacteria develop deep in the rock it gets stronger and processes mor nutints. When it's weak, other organisms fill the void. So even with normal parameters it likely the other organisms are processing more than the bio filter. This a little more slime.

 

[tutmatt3]

Will definitely give it a shot!
Then maybe I'll proceed with less than recommended dose of the rowa, keep an eye on the tank and on p04.

If p04 drops way to much, I can dose to bring it back since I have some on hand, or simply remove the gfo

And copy that on the rocks. Thanks on that info!

And thanks on the article ref. I'll feed read it up!

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

I would suggest not dosing.

HITS. Hand in tank syndrome.

 

[tutmatt3]

I would suggest not dosing.

HITS. Hand in tank syndrome.

Lol dann HITS!

Then what do you suggest? Water changes & time?

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Lol dann HITS!

Then what do you suggest? Water changes & time?

Pretty much. Watch the corals , test the rodi water.
Feed the fish healthfully.

 

[tutmatt3]

Pretty much. Watch the corals , test the rodi water.
Feed the fish healthfully.

Understood

So don't attempt to control silicates?

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Understood

So don't attempt to control silicates?

No. If it's a continuing problem the test kit is cheap but the sponges are an indicator too. And if you run a gfo it'll pull some of that out.

 

[tutmatt3]

Ohhhhh sorry, I misunderstood, when you said bit dosing, I mistook that for not using groom.

You meant not dose phosphates, but use gfo if I so insist

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Ohhhhh sorry, I misunderstood, when you said bit dosing, I mistook that for not using groom.

You meant not dose phosphates, but use gfo if I so insist

Yea. Go simple. The gfo imo is for possible contamination not po4 in your case.

I listed my simple gear list earlier to king let you know , I do almost nothing. It's a very simple process , people make it quite complicated.

The only oddity to solve is the brown stuff

 

[tutmatt3]

Yea. Go simple. The gfo imo is for possible contamination not po4 in your case.

I listed my simple gear list earlier to king let you know , I do almost nothing. It's a very simple process , people make it quite complicated.

The only oddity to solve is the brown stuff

And once we solve it, we can then retest by remove GFO, and see if it comes back.

Then we can narrow it down to feeding habits, or water quality.

Might consider a new RODI since I think this one is getting ready for cartridge replacements.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

And once we solve it, we can then retest by remove GFO, and see if it comes back.

Then we can narrow it down to feeding habits, or water quality.

Might consider a new RODI since I think this one is getting ready for cartridge replacements.

Sounds like a reasonable plan to me.