Build thread - converting 75 gallons fresh to salty
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OP
OP
Idech
2500 Club Member
I had to get some salt and food today and I also bought two corals with my Christmas money gift.
I bought a green alveopora and a red goniopora. I had read about goniopora care, but not enough I guess. I just read they’re considered the hardest LPS to keep in the hobby and they need very stable parameters…
This tank is not even 4 months old and I’m a beginner, so wish me luck !
I had suspicion this LFS was more about pushing sales than really helping, so at least now I know for sure. I did mention I wanted easy corals, more than once.
I bought a green alveopora and a red goniopora. I had read about goniopora care, but not enough I guess. I just read they’re considered the hardest LPS to keep in the hobby and they need very stable parameters…
This tank is not even 4 months old and I’m a beginner, so wish me luck !
I had suspicion this LFS was more about pushing sales than really helping, so at least now I know for sure. I did mention I wanted easy corals, more than once.
dvgyfresh
2500 Club Member
Sorry about the lfs sometimes they just try to make a sale , I’ve had success with a Goni - I was dosing phytoplankton and red sea AB+ they like to eat a lot! It has sadly passed tho my BTA killed it
dvgyfresh
2500 Club Member
I would feed it almost daily - phytoplankton or reef roids or Red Sea AB+
Not directly , these were dosed into the water column for all corals. Reef roids is really easy but increases phosphate a ton , Red Sea ab+ is amino acids supplement for coral growth and health
OP
OP
Idech
2500 Club Member
I have reef roids but haven’t used them yet as I’m trying to lower my nitrates and phosphates. I dose phytoplankton, but very little, for the same reason.
My daily supplement is All for reef. I hope it’s good enough.
OP
OP
Idech
2500 Club Member
I started direct targeting reef roids yesterday, to make sure the goni will be okay. It’s been doing really well so far so I’m hoping this helps even more. I used 1/4 teaspoon.
I’ve been trying to lower my nitrates/phosphates for a while (by feeding less and doing water changes) and it is working, but very slowly. Yesterday nitrates were at 23,1 and phosphates 0,12.
So today I am going to test again to see what impact the reef roids had on these levels. And test again after 5 gallons WC.
I’ve been trying to lower my nitrates/phosphates for a while (by feeding less and doing water changes) and it is working, but very slowly. Yesterday nitrates were at 23,1 and phosphates 0,12.
So today I am going to test again to see what impact the reef roids had on these levels. And test again after 5 gallons WC.
OP
OP
Idech
2500 Club Member
I tested again for nitrates and phosphates today, after the addition of reef roids yesterday. With 1/4 teaspoon, nitrates went up 2,3 ppm and phosphates went up 0,02 ppm.
This is 2-3 times more than what I remove with water changes, so this dosage won’t be possible. I will only dose a very small quantity once per week for the goniopora only, instead of dosing for most corals.
Until my tank gets more mature and can handle more.
Tomorrow I’ll do my weekly WC.
This is 2-3 times more than what I remove with water changes, so this dosage won’t be possible. I will only dose a very small quantity once per week for the goniopora only, instead of dosing for most corals.
Until my tank gets more mature and can handle more.
Tomorrow I’ll do my weekly WC.
OP
OP
Idech
2500 Club Member
I made a mistake that cost me 25 gallons of freshly mixed saltwater today. I let it mix for about 2 days with a heater and pump because I wasn’t feeling well enough to do the WC and didn’t want to have to mix it again to get to the right temperature so I just left it.
When I went to get some water today I checked it in the light and noticed it was filled with brown particles. This has never happened before because I had always followed Red Sea’s instructions, ie not mix for more than 2 hours or it will precipitate.
Oh well, lesson learned. It won’t happen again. Sigh.
When I went to get some water today I checked it in the light and noticed it was filled with brown particles. This has never happened before because I had always followed Red Sea’s instructions, ie not mix for more than 2 hours or it will precipitate.
Oh well, lesson learned. It won’t happen again. Sigh.
OP
OP
Idech
2500 Club Member
I mixed another 5 gallons of saltwater and did a 5 gallons WC. I’ve decided to only mix when I need it, but to have lots of rodi water ready.
I’m happy with the decrease in nitrates and phosphates since I started feeding less and started dosing a lot less phytoplancton (right now once every 2 weeks).
Nitrates were 27,3 ppm a month ago and now 20,6 ppm. Phosphates were 0,18 ppm a month ago and now 0,10 ppm.
I’ll have have to make sure they don’t go too low. Not there yet though.
I’m happy with the decrease in nitrates and phosphates since I started feeding less and started dosing a lot less phytoplancton (right now once every 2 weeks).
Nitrates were 27,3 ppm a month ago and now 20,6 ppm. Phosphates were 0,18 ppm a month ago and now 0,10 ppm.
I’ll have have to make sure they don’t go too low. Not there yet though.
OP
OP
Idech
2500 Club Member
Goni is doing great at the moment.
It’s growing well and I feed it reef roids once a week, even though I don’t like it because it raises my nitrates (20-22 ppm)
I’ve been dosing AFR for 6 weeks maybe and it’s keeping everything in check except magnesium, which is too low at 1190. It’s also raising alkalinity. 9ml per day gives me 9,0 dkh so I might lower it down to 8ml or so once I’m done adjusting the magnesium.
For magnesium I’m dosing Brightwell Aquatics Magnesion-P powder, using Randy Holmes-Farley’s calculator.
I’m going slowly, as recommended, and I dose one day and test the next day before adding more. So far I’ve dosed 50 mg over 2 days, which brought my mag up 70 ppm, to 1260 ppm. I’m mixing another 40 g right now and will add it later. I’m aiming for 1320 ppm.
Unfortunately I haven’t bought new corals as planned because my fridge broke and I had to buy a new one. I would like my new additions to be clove polyps, elegance coral and cyphastrea frags.
It’s growing well and I feed it reef roids once a week, even though I don’t like it because it raises my nitrates (20-22 ppm)
I’ve been dosing AFR for 6 weeks maybe and it’s keeping everything in check except magnesium, which is too low at 1190. It’s also raising alkalinity. 9ml per day gives me 9,0 dkh so I might lower it down to 8ml or so once I’m done adjusting the magnesium.
For magnesium I’m dosing Brightwell Aquatics Magnesion-P powder, using Randy Holmes-Farley’s calculator.
I’m going slowly, as recommended, and I dose one day and test the next day before adding more. So far I’ve dosed 50 mg over 2 days, which brought my mag up 70 ppm, to 1260 ppm. I’m mixing another 40 g right now and will add it later. I’m aiming for 1320 ppm.
Unfortunately I haven’t bought new corals as planned because my fridge broke and I had to buy a new one. I would like my new additions to be clove polyps, elegance coral and cyphastrea frags.
OP
OP
Idech
2500 Club Member
I’ve dosed Brigthwell Magnesion-P for the third time (40 grams) for a total of 90 grams over 3 days.
This morning my magnesium is right at 1320 ppm, like I wanted. Now I have to wait to find out how often I need to use it.
As a side note, the calculator recommended 141 g and I only needed 90 g (64% of recommended dose). I‘m happy I went slow as suggested. I suppose an unstable and immature tank doesn’t take as much as an older tank would need. Or maybe the All for Reef is making a difference. In any case, slow is the way to go in reefing !
This morning my magnesium is right at 1320 ppm, like I wanted. Now I have to wait to find out how often I need to use it.
As a side note, the calculator recommended 141 g and I only needed 90 g (64% of recommended dose). I‘m happy I went slow as suggested. I suppose an unstable and immature tank doesn’t take as much as an older tank would need. Or maybe the All for Reef is making a difference. In any case, slow is the way to go in reefing !
OP
OP
Idech
2500 Club Member
My latest test results :
I’ve realized my AFR dose was too high at 8-9 ml. Alk is too high for my taste and calcium is rising too.
I’ve lowered it to 5 ml and will monitor from there. This certainly is a learning curve and I’ve learned a lot. A little more tweaking and I think I’ll be okay.
I’m happy I only have easy enough corals. Only two mushrooms were affected by the alk swing so far. The frog spawn wasn’t happy when the magnesium was too low.
Hopefully everyone is happy again soon.
I’ve realized my AFR dose was too high at 8-9 ml. Alk is too high for my taste and calcium is rising too.
I’ve lowered it to 5 ml and will monitor from there. This certainly is a learning curve and I’ve learned a lot. A little more tweaking and I think I’ll be okay.
I’m happy I only have easy enough corals. Only two mushrooms were affected by the alk swing so far. The frog spawn wasn’t happy when the magnesium was too low.
Hopefully everyone is happy again soon.
OP
OP
Idech
2500 Club Member
I’ve added a myagi tort and a hammer today. I’m hoping they adjust well.
Unfortunately the magnesium is still fluctuating. It went from 1360 to 1280 ppm in less than 2 days. I added another 25 g for a total of 115 g so far.
Here are my parameters for today, 24 hours after dosing magnesium :
Calcium : 435 ppm
Magnesium : 1320 ppm
Alk : 9,5 dkh
Unfortunately the magnesium is still fluctuating. It went from 1360 to 1280 ppm in less than 2 days. I added another 25 g for a total of 115 g so far.
Here are my parameters for today, 24 hours after dosing magnesium :
Calcium : 435 ppm
Magnesium : 1320 ppm
Alk : 9,5 dkh
OP
OP
Idech
2500 Club Member
I had a big mess in the tank yesterday after replacing the filter floss in the Tunze filter. I did it at night and didn’t notice all the uneaten frozen food flying everwhere after I was done.
I saw it the next morning, and the water was also cloudy. I thought it was a bacterial bloom but Roger from Tunze explained it was most certainly a calcium precipitation caused by a blocked filter because of too much floss (and inadequate material).
As soon as I saw the mess, I took out the filter and flushed it until it was running clear of debris. I put it back with a new piece of different filter floss, more dense. I let the skimmer and filter do their job and a few hours later there were no more debris but the water was still cloudy (white). At night I changed the filter media (again) since it had picked up all the gunk.
This morning I tested phosphates and nitrates and nitrates went down from 22.1 to 18 ppm and phosphates from 0.11 to 0.02 (I will test again as it seems like a huge drop). The water was no longer cloudy.
I ordered some 30 ppi and 20 ppi sponges that I will use from now on, in the hope that this doesn’t happen again. I will also flush the filter every 2 weeks. And I will open it up to do a thorough flush when I get the new filter sponge.
This explains a lot. I could never understand why, with such a small bioload (6 mostly small fish) and not overfeeding I constantly had nitrates in the 20 ppm and phosphates. It was all the uneaten food trapped in the filter and not removed when I replaced the media every 5 days.
Soon I should really find out what my true levels are.
I saw it the next morning, and the water was also cloudy. I thought it was a bacterial bloom but Roger from Tunze explained it was most certainly a calcium precipitation caused by a blocked filter because of too much floss (and inadequate material).
As soon as I saw the mess, I took out the filter and flushed it until it was running clear of debris. I put it back with a new piece of different filter floss, more dense. I let the skimmer and filter do their job and a few hours later there were no more debris but the water was still cloudy (white). At night I changed the filter media (again) since it had picked up all the gunk.
This morning I tested phosphates and nitrates and nitrates went down from 22.1 to 18 ppm and phosphates from 0.11 to 0.02 (I will test again as it seems like a huge drop). The water was no longer cloudy.
I ordered some 30 ppi and 20 ppi sponges that I will use from now on, in the hope that this doesn’t happen again. I will also flush the filter every 2 weeks. And I will open it up to do a thorough flush when I get the new filter sponge.
This explains a lot. I could never understand why, with such a small bioload (6 mostly small fish) and not overfeeding I constantly had nitrates in the 20 ppm and phosphates. It was all the uneaten food trapped in the filter and not removed when I replaced the media every 5 days.
Soon I should really find out what my true levels are.
OP
OP
Idech
2500 Club Member
I opened up and cleaned the filter and it was quite disgusting. When I went to put it back in the tank, I noticed the skimmer was full of debris stuck on the side.
I took it out and figured might as well open it up too and do a thorough cleaning. It was just as disgusting as the filter. This was my first time doing maintenance on these two so it tool very long. Next time will be better.
Tomorrow I’ll test again as I’m curious to find out if my nitrates will be even lower after this maintenance.
I took it out and figured might as well open it up too and do a thorough cleaning. It was just as disgusting as the filter. This was my first time doing maintenance on these two so it tool very long. Next time will be better.
Tomorrow I’ll test again as I’m curious to find out if my nitrates will be even lower after this maintenance.
OP
OP
Idech
2500 Club Member
Oh, and the myagi is dead. I used glue that was much too liquid and it dripped on one side of the frag. I’ll never know if it would have survided. I’ll have to get another SPS to test eventually.
OP
OP
Idech
2500 Club Member
I tested again and this huge clean-up had no effect on nitrates, still at 18 ppm and phosphates at 0.03 (close enough, it was 0.02 just before).
So either there is something else naturally lowering the nitrates and phosphate (maybe growing coralline algae) or it takes a few days to show up on tests.
Either way I’m happy with it. I think it’s a sign I’m going in the right direction.
So either there is something else naturally lowering the nitrates and phosphate (maybe growing coralline algae) or it takes a few days to show up on tests.
Either way I’m happy with it. I think it’s a sign I’m going in the right direction.
OP
OP
Idech
2500 Club Member
Well, this magnesium dosing thing isn’t working. 5 days after the last dose, magnesium is down from 1320 to 1260 ppm. Alk is up from 9,0 to 9,5 dkh and calcium is stable at 435 ppm.
Some corals aren’t happy. They look deflated and sad. I can understand, my parameters haven’t been stable in 2-3 weeks.
Did I take too long to dose the complete amount ? Is my tank too immature to take it ? Is it not enough ?
At this point I have no idea. Being my first saltwater tank, I learn as I go. I’m going to leave it alone for now and just monitor. The corals need a break and so do I. Testing 3-4 times a week isn’t my idea of fin. I’m also a bit frustrated.
Some corals aren’t happy. They look deflated and sad. I can understand, my parameters haven’t been stable in 2-3 weeks.
Did I take too long to dose the complete amount ? Is my tank too immature to take it ? Is it not enough ?
At this point I have no idea. Being my first saltwater tank, I learn as I go. I’m going to leave it alone for now and just monitor. The corals need a break and so do I. Testing 3-4 times a week isn’t my idea of fin. I’m also a bit frustrated.
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