Building stand soon (hopefully, need some help)

[geemanaz]

I pick up a LeeMar Starphire Glass tank For $90.00. The tank dimensions are 47 1/2 wide X 18 1/2 deep X 25 1/2 tall and glass is 1/2 in thick Starphire Glass on 3 sides and 1/2in thick glass on the back and bottom. So I want to make a stand for the tank and need some help on what kind of wood and size of wood to build it out of.

 

[revhtree]

Welcome to R2R! Sweet tank and even better price! WOW! We have some great DIY members so maybe they can help you soon!

 

[geemanaz]

Welcome to R2R! Sweet tank and even better price! WOW! We have some great DIY members so maybe they can help you soon!

Thank you

 

[skinz78]

I recommend just framing it up out of 2" x 4" lumber 16" on centers just like you would frame up a wall. Then skin it with some sort of plywood and finish to your liking. Before building I would thing long and hard on a proper height to build it at. I built mine at 36" tall which is a couple inch's higher than the usual stand, I like my tanks up where I don't need to bend over to look inside.

 

[geemanaz]

I recommend just framing it up out of 2" x 4" lumber 16" on centers just like you would frame up a wall. Then skin it with some sort of plywood and finish to your liking. Before building I would thing long and hard on a proper height to build it at. I built mine at 36" tall which is a couple inch's higher than the usual stand, I like my tanks up where I don't need to bend over to look inside.

thank you for your input. I planing on framing it out of 2" x 6" top and bottom . Thinking 35" tall and plywood the bottom to hold the sump and do i need to put foam sheet under the tank to help support the wight ?

 

[swannyson7]

Adding foam underneath a tank is usually counterproductive. With rimless tanks, imperfections in the foam layer may put a greater amount of stress on the bottom of the tank in certain spots. Likewise, tanks with plastic trim are designed to be supported by the plastic and pressure on the bottom glass could again cause unnecessary stress on the glass. I would just add a piece of 1/2" ply on the top of the stand to support the tank. By using 2x6 for the top and bottom, you'll easily be able to get away with just the four corner supports and no center supports, but you would probably be able to get away with that by using 2x4 as well. Better safe than sorry though, so 2x6 would be a sure thing.

 

[gar732]

Adding foam underneath a tank is usually counterproductive. With rimless tanks, imperfections in the foam layer may put a greater amount of stress on the bottom of the tank in certain spots. Likewise, tanks with plastic trim are designed to be supported by the plastic and pressure on the bottom glass could again cause unnecessary stress on the glass. I would just add a piece of 1/2" ply on the top of the stand to support the tank. By using 2x6 for the top and bottom, you'll easily be able to get away with just the four corner supports and no center supports, but you would probably be able to get away with that by using 2x4 as well. Better safe than sorry though, so 2x6 would be a sure thing.

+1 you don't need the foam on rimmed tanks. And I also agree you won't need more than the support on the four corners especially using 2x6s. I built a stand for my 75gal using 2x4s with no center support and have had absolutely no sagging or ant issues at all. It's great having nothing in your way when you're working on something underneath your stand. Here is a link to my build if you are interested https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/member-tanks/32359-gabes-piece-ocean.html.

 

[rybitski]

I built my stand out of 2x4s and covered the top with 3/4" ply. Right now it is supporting a 90G and a 20G with no problems.
This frame design is tried and true so you may get some ideas from it:

I wouldn't use 2x6s all the way around because it isn't necessary. If you are worried about sagging then you could use 2x6s for the top from, but 2x4s used in this configuration are extremely strong. That is just my 2cents tho. Whatever you decide be sure to use lots of wood screws and some wood glue. If you have any other questions I would be glad to help.

 

[swannyson7]

+1 on that frame design. That's the same design I've used for all of my stand builds.

 

[geemanaz]

thanks you all for your input and time to post back.

 

[seareefrun]

$1 a gallon, great price. Two thumbs up on the advice above.

 

[KrautBurner]

I built my stand out of 2x4s and covered the top with 3/4" ply. Right now it is supporting a 90G and a 20G with no problems.
This frame design is tried and true so you may get some ideas from it:

I wouldn't use 2x6s all the way around because it isn't necessary. If you are worried about sagging then you could use 2x6s for the top from, but 2x4s used in this configuration are extremely strong. That is just my 2cents tho. Whatever you decide be sure to use lots of wood screws and some wood glue. If you have any other questions I would be glad to help.

I too am looking at building a stand for my 90

I love having a 36" tall stand (on my current 75gal)
I'm actually thinking of going to 38" tall for the 90, it puts more of the tank at eye level,
and gives much more presance in the room.


this is basicly the design I was thinking of for mine.
I was leaning towards another vertical 2x4 in the middle of the front (for the doors to shut against)
and 2 more in the back, about 6" in from the corners (just for good measure) but I don't think they are necessary

 

[jelly]

I too am looking at building a stand for my 90

I love having a 36" tall stand (on my current 75gal)
I'm actually thinking of going to 38" tall for the 90, it puts more of the tank at eye level,
and gives much more presance in the room.


this is basicly the design I was thinking of for mine.
I was leaning towards another vertical 2x4 in the middle of the front (for the doors to shut against)
and 2 more in the back, about 6" in from the corners (just for good measure) but I don't think they are necessary

this stand looks good but i would make a one change in the corners with the purple and green 2x4s. how i would change it is i would take the green 2x4 and turn it so it lays flat against the side. then i would notch the top and bottom. with the green one turned and notched you can remove one of the purple colored boards.

 

[jelly]

the commoent above was ment for that stand thats shows the color coded 2x4s