Bulk reef supply ro/do unit

Discussion in 'General Equipment, Hardware, Filtration' started by reeflife75g, Feb 8, 2018.

  1. reeflife75g

    reeflife75g Active Member

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    I have had it about 8 months now and I haven't changed my membrane and it seems like I have algae now could it be from bad membrane my water is testing 0 but could it be bad and my water pressure is bad so it wears that system out ?
     
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  2. oracle86d

    oracle86d Member

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    Yeah. Could be your tds not accurate?
     
  3. reeflife75g

    reeflife75g Active Member

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    Maybe it was a cheap one
     
  4. oracle86d

    oracle86d Member

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    Change the carbon block and make sure u r flushing before n after. Temp and pressure. Has to be minimum 60psi my opinion. I like it at 80 or 90 and m just above 60 atm.
     
  5. reeflife75g

    reeflife75g Active Member

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    IMG_3875.jpg
     
  6. reeflife75g

    reeflife75g Active Member

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    Mine is just a 4 stage it don't have flush
     
  7. oracle86d

    oracle86d Member

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    Definitely get a 12dollar flush. Replace ur blocks, sediment, carbon, di and membrane since u didn’t have a flush. U are the owner and operator so doing the math u will figure it out. Ur answer is held in tds reading between first two second and output. Check ur clean water bucket for fill or debris.
     
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  8. AquaFX-PB

    AquaFX-PB Member

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    Check calibration of your test equipment (ie the TDS Meters) if that is good to go, check for phosphates leaving the system - ideally with a phosphate test kit.
    Are you storing the water before it goes into the tank? Or right out of the RO/DI?
     
  9. Opus

    Opus Valuable Member

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    You don't need to change everything. You need to check your tds at your tap and right after the RO membrane. If the rejection rate is 96% or better then your membrane is fine. Also, as long as you are getting 0 tds after the di you are fine. After checking the tds and you determine if your RO membrane is OK, then I would replace the sediment and carbon filters. When you replace them, make sure you flush them first. By that I mean install the sediment filter and pull the line that goes to the carbon block and then turn on the water supply and let it run for a few minutes. Then hook it back to the carbon block and change out the carbon filter. Pull the line going to the RO membrane and turn on the water supply for a few minutes so it flushes out the carbon block. Then hook it back to the RO membrane and you are ready to make water again.

    I recommend getting 1 micron or .5 micron sediment and carbon blocks. Also while ordering you probably should get DI resin to have for when your current DI is used up. A RO membrane flush kit is not needed, they don't work at our consumer level. Now a kit that lets you bypass the DI for the first few minutes of water production is a good idea. The tds coming out of the RO membrane is really high for the first few minutes after turning it on and this keeps from using up your di faster than you should.
     
  10. reeflife75g

    reeflife75g Active Member

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    I make it and use it up in about 2 days
     
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  11. reeflife75g

    reeflife75g Active Member

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    Okay I'll do that for sure
     
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  12. mtraylor

    mtraylor Valuable Member R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Article Contributor Build Thread Contributor

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    what is the kit that bypasses DI for first couple minutes? I just ordered the 6 stage DI from BRS that arrived today.
     
  13. Potatohead

    Potatohead Well-Known Member

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  14. mtraylor

    mtraylor Valuable Member R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Article Contributor Build Thread Contributor

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    Cool. Thanks!
     
  15. Buckeye Hydro

    Buckeye Hydro Active Member R2R Supporter Gold Sponsor

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    Seems to be confusion in this thread, and broader in the hobby as well. A FLUSH VALVE, and a DI BYPASS are two very different things and they are used for very different purposes.

    A FLUSH VALVE is either a manual or an automatic valve on the concentrate (aka "waste water) tube that temporarily allows the user to bypass the flow restrictor. It allows water to rush through the membrane and membrane housing to remove debris. This is done in an attempt to increase the usable life span of the membrane.

    On the other hand, a DI BYPASS is on the permeate (aka RO water) tube and it allows the user to either direct the permeate to the drain, or direct the permeate to the DI stage. This is done to minimize the DI capacity exhausted by TDS creep water - the relatively high TDS water produced by the RO membrane when a system kicks on.

    Russ
     
  16. mtraylor

    mtraylor Valuable Member R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Article Contributor Build Thread Contributor

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    Do you know of a DI BYPASS kit?
     
  17. Buckeye Hydro

    Buckeye Hydro Active Member R2R Supporter Gold Sponsor

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    Ahhhh, ya. We make them and keep them in stock.
     
  18. mtraylor

    mtraylor Valuable Member R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Article Contributor Build Thread Contributor

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    who is we and where is it?
     
  19. Potatohead

    Potatohead Well-Known Member

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    You're the expert, but by installing a DI bypass are you not somewhat by default installing a flush valve? Path of least resistance and all that.
     
  20. Buckeye Hydro

    Buckeye Hydro Active Member R2R Supporter Gold Sponsor

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    Not really. The DI bypass comes off the low pressure side of the membrane. So the water comes out slowly - e.g., 75gpd. The Flush Valve is on the high pressure side of the membrane, and flow is as fast as your pressure will push water through the membrane and a 1/4" tube.

    Russ
     
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