Bulk reef supply ro/do unit

[mtraylor]

While they are 2 distinctive things, the end result is pretty much the same IMO.

TDS CREEP
"When water sits in the membrane housing for a duration, TDS rises as it wicks out of the membrane. The initial 60 to 90 seconds when the system turns on will send this burst of TDS into the DI resin, or into the sump if it was plumbed directly (without a DI stage to pass through first). Each time the RO system turns on, this occurs. When one is plumbed directly to the tank, the constant on / off process day-in and day-out reduces the membrane's lifespan and efficiency. "

Option 1
So if you flush the membrane, the so called creep will never get to the DI resine. The water will be cleaned properly before sending to Resine.

Option 2
Don't flush the membrane and simple decant the first minute or so water before it reaches the DI.

This is how I see it. As my aquarium is directly connected to my DI unit for last 10 years or so. I think I may try out the auto flush option1 as Im not there to turn things on and off. I"m just curious to see if it actually reduces my DI consumption rate. If it doesn't I can sell it off. Not a big worry.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

So if you flush the membrane, the so called creep will never get to the DI resine. The water will be cleaned properly before sending to Resine.

Maybe I'm not explaining it well enough. When you bypass the flow restrictor and flush a membrane, you are rinsing the HIGH PRESSURE side of the membrane - the TDS creep water is still there... on the LOW PRESSURE side of the membrane.

 

[mtraylor]

Oh ok, so you essentially would only be flushing some of the tds creep. What ever is stagnant on the low pressure side is there unless you decant it off. Is that correct?

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

By definition, TDS Creep is ONLY on the low pressure side - so flushing wouldn't do a thing to it.

 

[mtraylor]

Oh ok. Well that will save me some time and money. Manual flush options are not an option for me.

I appreciate the help.