Buying fish from Biota any safer

[me & my baby]

I was wondering is it safer to buy fish from Biota .

 

[Jerry Barnes]

It’s the only supplier that I put directly into the display.

 

[Hawaiian AQ]

It’s the only supplier that I put directly into the display.

Just some inside baseball…I wouldn’t do that

 

[me & my baby]

I know I still
Need to OT them but is there a better chance of them not having sickness

 

[Leon.NYC]

Hi @me & my baby, I’d still quarantine.

I’ve ordered from them directly a few years back for a captive bred yellow tangs(trio) which brought itch into my tank. Prior to the yellow tangs I haven’t added anything for a few months new to the tank.

I added the fish to my main display at lights out giving them time to acclimate in their acclimation boxes. By the next morning I found my clowns laying on their side along with my melanarus wrasse. Unfortunately, the trios brought in velvet. Over then following 12-16 hours I lost a majority of my fishes. I came to find out that although there are some serious security protocols in place, biota does use seawater for their systems. Since we’re talking about pathogens on a microscopic level, it’s easy for some to make it through. I do however believe mine was a rare case, but I learned my lesson. Just my .02 cents =)

 

[me & my baby]

Hi @me & my baby, I’d still quarantine.

I’ve ordered from them directly a few years back for a captive bred yellow tangs(trio) which brought itch into my tank. Prior to the yellow tangs I haven’t added anything for a few months new to the tank.

I added the fish to my main display at lights out giving them time to acclimate in their acclimation boxes. By the next morning I found my clowns laying on their side along with my melanarus wrasse. Unfortunately, the trios brought in velvet. Over then following 12-16 hours I lost a majority of my fishes. I came to find out that although there are some serious security protocols in place, biota does use seawater for their systems. Since we’re talking about pathogens on a microscopic level, it’s easy for some to make it through. I do however believe mine was a rare case, but I learned my lesson. Just my .02 cents =)

That sucks and that is why this time around I am being very careful with where I buy fish from and QT the fish . Last time I bought fish 6 years ago mu buddy would let me go with him to the wholesaler and get fish . I OT them for a week they all seemed fine and all were eating . I put them in my tank and with in 3 days i lost every fish in the tank . So looked like they had brook , some had ich but all 25 plus fish dead .

 

[BryanM]

I was wondering is it safer to buy fish from Biota .

So IMO yes. But without risk, obviously not.

I can tell you personally I bought 3 Biota yellows, did not QT, and they are all fine.

I also like the sustainability aspect here.

 

[me & my baby]

That is one thing I liked about what they do

 

[Leko]

Good info..I was playing with the idea of getting 2 yellow tangs and assuming biotas broodstock must be disease free...

Good to know

 

[Hawaiian AQ]

So IMO yes. But without risk, obviously not.

I can tell you personally I bought 3 Biota yellows, did not QT, and they are all fine.

I also like the sustainability aspect here.

The wild yellow tang fishery is the most sustainable and best managed aquarium fishery in the world. You’re not saving the world buying those fish in the slightest bit

 

[BryanM]

The wild yellow tang fishery is the most sustainable and best managed aquarium fishery in the world. You’re not saving the world buying those fish in the slightest bit

And yet they are not really available are they?

 

[Hawaiian AQ]

Good info..I was playing with the idea of getting 2 yellow tangs and assuming biotas broodstock must be disease free...

Good to know

Said broodstock. They have had massive disease outbreaks and killed tons of fish. Issues with biosecurity and lapses in good husbandry practices according to filed permit paperwork with State

 

[Hawaiian AQ]

And yet they are not really available are they?

For now. Doesn’t change the facts and decades of research and scientific oversight. Sad people buy into this bull. Plenty of fish arguably should be the focus of aquaculture, that can’t be said for the yellow tang

 

[Leon.NYC]

That sucks and that is why this time around I am being very careful with where I buy fish from and QT the fish . Last time I bought fish 6 years ago mu buddy would let me go with him to the wholesaler and get fish . I OT them for a week they all seemed fine and all were eating . I put them in my tank and with in 3 days i lost every fish in the tank . So looked like they had brook , some had ich but all 25 plus fish dead .

Sorry - correction, it brought velvet, not ich. The rate of fish dying was quick (12 hours).
Hence why I always QT or I choose to go with someone like Marine Collectors as I’ve had great experience with fishes I receive from them, but that comes at a very high price depending on the fish.

I’ve been going with the HTTM method for ich. During water changes I do formalin or H2o2 dips, 9 days prazi, them 3-4 rounds of Metro & Kanaplex. To me this seems a bit safer than running copper but you have to be meticulous with sterilization. I’m yet to lose any fish doing this, even saved a gem tang I found on fb that someone was going to put down before I decided to get him. Pics of the before and after attached.

 

[Hawaiian AQ]

Sorry - correction, it brought velvet, not ich. The rate of fish dying was quick (12 hours).
Hence why I always QT or I choose to go with someone like Marine Collectors as I’ve had great experience with fishes I receive from them, but that comes at a very high price depending on the fish.

I’ve been going with the HTTM method for ich. During water changes I do formalin or H2o2 dips, 9 days prazi, them 3-4 rounds of Metro & Kanaplex. To me this seems a bit safer than running copper but you have to be meticulous with sterilization. I’m yet to lose any fish doing this, even saved a gem tang I found on fb that someone was going to put down before I decided to get him. Pics of the before and after attached.

Nice work! Love to see a good effort save a fish

 

[me & my baby]

That sucks and that is why this time around I am being very careful with where I buy fish from and QT the fish . Last time I bought fish 6 years ago mu buddy would let me go with him to the wholesaler and get fish . I OT them for a week they all seemed fine and all were eating . I put them in my tank and with in 3 days i lost every fish in the tank . So looked like they had brook , some had ich but all 25 plus fish dead .

Sorry - correction, it brought velvet, not ich. The rate of fish dying was quick (12 hours).
Hence why I always QT or I choose to go with someone like Marine Collectors as I’ve had great experience with fishes I receive from them, but that comes at a very high price depending on the fish.

I’ve been going with the HTTM method for ich. During water changes I do formalin or H2o2 dips, 9 days prazi, them 3-4 rounds of Metro & Kanaplex. To me this seems a bit safer than running copper but you have to be meticulous with sterilization. I’m yet to lose any fish doing this, even saved a gem tang I found on fb that someone was going to put down before I decided to get him. Pics of the before and after attached.

That is amazing transformation. What is the HTTM method

 

[reefinadesert]

I was wondering is it safer to buy fish from Biota .

Definitely still good, I’ve gotten

Yellow tang
2x molly miller blenny (eventually paired)
royal gramma

All except the gramma are still alive (SLW killed it, my fault for getting the devil incarnate)

Bad practice on my part, but I put them straight into DT and nothing bad happened, even after half a year. All originally in a 65, moved to a 180 and transferring had minimal side effects.

 

[mmorrison55]

That is amazing transformation. What is the HTTM method

I don’t know what the H stands for. It TTM is tank transfer method.

Im sure there are a few posts here about the process and definitely if you google it. Ive never personally used it as it seems a lot of work, it supposedly successful way to deal with ich and other fish diseases.

 

[Leon.NYC]

That is amazing transformation. What is the HTTM method

It stands for Hybrid Tank Transfer Method. Mine is a take on Humblefishes method. I've outlined my method below. It makes it easy when having two separate tanks & equipment available.

• Day-01: Place fish in QT. Dose Prazipro
• Day-02: No change. Minimal feeding.
• Day-03: Tank swap. Formalin 37% dip for 45 minutes. Re-dose Prazi. Making sure I don't go over 72 hours between tank swap.
• Day-04 & 05: No change.
• Day-06: Tank swap. Prazi re-dose.
• Day-07 & 08: No change.
• Day-09: Formalin dip for 45 minutes. Tank swap. Dose nitrofurazone, kanaplex & Metroplex in water column. Note: Kanaplex & Metro are only active for 48-hours.
• Day-10: Re-dose nitrofurazone (only active in water column for 24-hours).
• Day-11: Tank swap & re-dose nitrofurazone, kanaplex & Metro.
• Day-12: Re-dose Nitrofurazone.
• Day-13: Tank swap. Re-dose all three. Possibly do Hydrogen peroxide dip - depending on species of fish.
• Day-14: Re-dose nitrofurazone.
• Day-15: Watch behavior. You should be ready for fish to be transferred to your tank.

Basically, moving every 72 hours outpaces the lifecycle of ich. Formalin/H2o2 deals with Brook/Velvet & possibly flukes. Kana/Metro & Nitrofurazone will deal with any bacterial infections.
Personally, I've been noticing a lot of fish coming in with some form of bacterial infection, or at least the ones I've been receiving as I populate my upgraded tank.

 

[mmorrison55]

It stands for Hybrid Tank Transfer Method. Mine is a take on Humblefishes method. I've outlined my method below. It makes it easy when having two separate tanks & equipment available.

• Day-01: Place fish in QT. Dose Prazipro
• Day-02: No change. Minimal feeding.
• Day-03: Tank swap. Formalin 37% dip for 45 minutes. Re-dose Prazi. Making sure I don't go over 72 hours between tank swap.
• Day-04 & 05: No change.
• Day-06: Tank swap. Prazi re-dose.
• Day-07 & 08: No change.
• Day-09: Formalin dip for 45 minutes. Tank swap. Dose nitrofurazone, kanaplex & Metroplex in water column. Note: Kanaplex & Metro are only active for 48-hours.
• Day-10: Re-dose nitrofurazone (only active in water column for 24-hours).
• Day-11: Tank swap & re-dose nitrofurazone, kanaplex & Metro.
• Day-12: Re-dose Nitrofurazone.
• Day-13: Tank swap. Re-dose all three. Possibly do Hydrogen peroxide dip - depending on species of fish.
• Day-14: Re-dose nitrofurazone.
• Day-15: Watch behavior. You should be ready for fish to be transferred to your tank.

Basically, moving every 72 hours outpaces the lifecycle of ich. Formalin/H2o2 deals with Brook/Velvet & possibly flukes. Kana/Metro & Nitrofurazone will deal with any bacterial infections.
Personally, I've been noticing a lot of fish coming in with some form of bacterial infection, or at least the ones I've been receiving as I populate my upgraded tank.

Couple of questions…

How many tanks do you use? I assume 2. What kind of cleaning are you doing to the tanks when moving?

When you say “no change” on some of your steps, do yiu mean, you don’t do anything that day or you dose the same that you did in the previous step?