Ca Reactor DC vs AC Recirculating Pump Question

chaoticreefer

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Hi Everyone,
I had a Ca Reactor years ago (back in early 2000s) and got out of hobby around 2008. I got back into the hobby early 2010s and have dosed 2 part ever since. About a handful number of years ago I ended up buying an used Ca Reactor and never hooked it up, it's sitting up in a loft out in the garage. One of the drawbacks for using this older reactor is that it doesn't have a pH probe holder (got it SUPER CHEAP), so I have been considering buying a new reactor to start off with since my growth rate has taken off crazy, since I have been trying the Reef Moonshiner method. I am at the point where that 2 part is going to get expensive and my Alk and Ca intake still growing crazy upward. I have been looking at new reactors, I keep going back to a question that keeps popping up in my head. What's the purpose having a DC pump for the reactor's recirculating pump? Why does that need some control? Obviously, they are more expensive over AC Ca reactors, so I was wondering if there's a true meaningful purpose. For the life of me, I can't remember from my earlier days of running a Ca reactor why I would needed to control that function. Any info would be deeply appreciated.
 

X-37B

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DC pump not needed on a carx. Not sure why you would want one honestly.
You also dont need a ph probe or controller to run a carx.
I have a quality 2 stage regulator and tune mine by setting bubble count per minute and effluent in ml per minute.
This is, imo, the most reliable way to setup and run a carx.
Reverse flow reactors are better as most media nowadays is small crushed coral.
I ran a small, 3171, Tunze carx on my 120 for about a year.
I liked it so much that instead of getting the 3172 at $800 I modified a 6" Skimz media reactor and run it just like the Tunze.
It is all documented in my build thread.
 
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chaoticreefer

chaoticreefer

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I am also worried about the seals such as all of the o-rings for the reason why I am considering a new reactor. Yeah, I know you can run it without a pH probe, as I did back in the day. But...it would be nice to keep an eye on the internal pH to see drop/rise when having to make adjustments down the road. Not having to drip into a cup with a pH probe to see what's going on.
 

X-37B

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I am also worried about the seals such as all of the o-rings for the reason why I am considering a new reactor. Yeah, I know you can run it without a pH probe, as I did back in the day. But...it would be nice to keep an eye on the internal pH to see drop/rise when having to make adjustments down the road. Not having to drip into a cup with a pH probe to see what's going on.
Thats a little old school.
I never check ph, not needed.
Only time I drip into a cup is to dial in effluent dkh and thats only when setting it up and I dont need to test ph.
A ph probe is the week link, imo, as its another thing to go wrong.
Ask me how I know from fellow reefers systems.
Also running 24/7 is more stable than having a solenoid going on and off dumping in large amounts of co2. Many have ph issues because of that.
My tanks ph has never varied since setting it up.
I can look at my drip rate and know dkh is in range. My regulator never varies so bubbles never vary.

Ok, anyway good luck with your carx adventure. Cant go wrong with a new carx.
 

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