Calling All Vortech Experts - Can these MP60's be salvaged?

Mike.P

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I could use some advice, please. ;Woot

Sorry for the super long post, I've just never used Vortechs before, and don't know a whole lot about them. I found a killer deal on a nice UV sterilizer on Craigslist a couple of days ago and, despite it being an hour and a half to, and then up, a canyon, I went and picked it up. While I was there, he also showed me pile of equipment that one of his friends left him from a giant tank, which he didn't take with him when he moved out of state. Among the piles, were two MP60 W's. I asked him how much, and he told me I can just have them. I double checked to make sure he knows that they're quite expensive, and that I wasn't looking to fleece him, but he said he knows, and it's fine. He said it's my gift for driving up the mountain, in the middle of a crazy May blizzard. lol

Anyway, both of their wet sides were so calcified and encrusted with algae, that at first I couldn't even turn the props by hand; after a 24 hour vinegar soak, and a lot of scrubbing, they look good as new. However, there are some issues that I'm seeing, so I could use some help as to what I need to do, and if it's worth it.

#1 Both of the wet sides were stuck to the dry sides, magnetically and with the spacer pads. Rock solid. I basically had to keep driving plastic wedges between them, until they finally separated. This destroyed both the dry side spacer pads, and the wet side glass protector (I assume) pads. The dry side spacers I see online, the wet side pads I can't seem to find. Here's a picture of one of them, the other one is even worse.

20190510_031534.jpg

#2 One of the wet side props has a few dings on it.

20190510_031628.jpg 20190510_031644.jpg

#3 In one of the wet side bases, the little ceramic square around the base of the prop shaft broke apart when I was cleaning it. I have all of the pieces. Can it be cemented? Also, is there some kind of lubricant that I should put on the shafts?

20190510_031705.jpg 20190510_031720.jpg

#4 The rubberized coating around one the dry sides is pretty chewed up, I'm guessing it was banging around in a box or something. That's probably strictly an aesthetic thing, but I was thinking of taping everything off, and coating it with a rubber spray.

20190510_032446.jpg

#5 When I powered them up I could hear some rattles, and maybe a bit of a grinding sound from the dry sides; it doesn't sound like the bearings (hopefully), maybe just dirt and schmekis inside of the housing. The rotors did look pretty dirty, in looking through the vents. Should I just blow them out with air? Or is it safe to use an electric cleaner aerosol spray on them as well? I just don't know if the bearings are sealed in there, in which case it should be fine, or if they're exposed, in which case the cleaner would blow the grease out of them. Can the dry sides be disassembled fairly easily? One of them has screws on its face, the other does not.

20190510_032526.jpg 20190510_032538.jpg

#6 They were manufactured in 2012, so they have some years on them. I know I should probably upgrade the drivers to the QD versions. Maybe that'll take care of some of my noise issues?

20190510_032655.jpg 20190510_032735.jpg

#7 Finally, when I fired them up, one of the wet sides makes a soft, almost helicopter-like "whump whump whump" sound when it's running; this happens if I switch it to the other dry side as well. My tank isn't filled yet, so maybe it's just because I'm running them in the air, with a folded up towel separating them?

20190510_033207.jpg

So yeah, I'm trying to figure out what all it will take to make these run properly, and if it's worth the investment... At the very least I need the new QD drivers, then possibly at least one new wet side, and spacers, pads, etc. These are probably overkill for my tank anyway, I have a Red Sea XXL 625, and I was leaning toward getting the new Gyres for it; however, if these can be put in order for a reasonable amount of money, and will dial down low enough not to throw water out of the tank, then I don't see a reason not to use them. Or maybe I can just fix them up and sell them, that may be worth it too.

Thanks in advance, I appreciate any help and advice! :D
 

TheHarold

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Don't use a cloth as a spacer.... use something that's flat. That might be what's causing the noise.
 

redfishbluefish

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With the wetsides, take a very close look at the magnets. Vinegar actually penetrates plastic, getting to the magnet, and causing it to swell. I've heard that whoop-whoop-whoop too many times. If it's real bad, you'll actually see the plastic cases split open.

Is it worth it to fix? Without seeing in detail, I say yes. If you decide not to fix, I'll pay you what you paid! :eek:. :D
 

ca1ore

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None of that seems significant. Assuming they got run a lot, models from 2012 probably need new wetsides anyhow. I’ve never taken any of my MP60 drysides apart, not even the pair I have from 2011. Try running them with proper dryside orientation (stand up a piece of 3/4” plywood; no spacers needed) and that may cure any grinding sounds.
 
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Mike.P

Mike.P

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Don't use a cloth as a spacer.... use something that's flat. That might be what's causing the noise.

I'll try it with something else when I get home, I just didn't want to put them on the tank without the spacers.

With the wetsides, take a very close look at the magnets. Vinegar actually penetrates plastic, getting to the magnet, and causing it to swell. I've heard that whoop-whoop-whoop too many times. If it's real bad, you'll actually see the plastic cases split open.

Is it worth it to fix? Without seeing in detail, I say yes. If you decide not to fix, I'll pay you what you paid! :eek:. :D

That crossed my mind too, I just didn't see any other way of doing it. They were cruuuuusty. I wish I took a "before" picture, lol. I was kind of hoping that noise is just it being a little out of balance, due to the dings on the propeller; I might try to sand them, in order to get them smooth. But maybe getting new controllers, along with new wet sides may be the way to go, so long as I can get the dry sides to quiet down... The way they sound now is a no-go.
 
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Mike.P

Mike.P

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None of that seems significant. Assuming they got run a lot, models from 2012 probably need new wetsides anyhow. I’ve never taken any of my MP60 drysides apart, not even the pair I have from 2011. Try running them with proper dryside orientation (stand up a piece of 3/4” plywood; no spacers needed) and that may cure any grinding sounds.

I'll give that a shot when I get home, I think I have 3/4" lying around in the garage. The only reason I was thinking of opening them up, is to give them a really good blow-out; they're not horrible, but there's definitely a lot of dirt inside of them. I'm wondering if one of them has been opened up before... They shouldn't have screws on the face like that, right? I was reading an older thread about replacing bearings in them, and the OP there said to just cut the sealant all the way around around it, and then pry it off.
 
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Mike.P

Mike.P

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Wow what a score. Definitely salvageable. Good luck

Thanks! I was pretty excited, and it certainly made that drive worthwhile. lol. Does anyone have a thought on why one of the dry sides has those screws in it? From everything that I've been able to see, I don't think it came that way from the factory.
 

ca1ore

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I'll give that a shot when I get home, I think I have 3/4" lying around in the garage. The only reason I was thinking of opening them up, is to give them a really good blow-out; they're not horrible, but there's definitely a lot of dirt inside of them. I'm wondering if one of them has been opened up before... They shouldn't have screws on the face like that, right? I was reading an older thread about replacing bearings in them, and the OP there said to just cut the sealant all the way around around it, and then pry it off.

Not sure, never taken one apart. My guess is the screws are normal. There’s really no reason the bearings will go bad unless the prior owned let water get inside.
 
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Mike.P

Mike.P

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Not sure, never taken one apart. My guess is the screws are normal. There’s really no reason the bearings will go bad unless the prior owned let water get inside.

I think you're right, because the depth and spacing of the holes looks too perfect NOT to be factory, unless whoever put them in is very good. I just don't get why only one of them has the screws, and the other is just the cemented down plate.

I tried them on a 3/4" piece of wood, as you suggested, and the dry sides definitely sounded a lot better. The wet sides still seem questionable, so maybe I'll just order new ones, we'll see.

Between two wet sides, and two QD drivers, that's basically the cost of two Gyre 350's. Hence the struggle. I know, I know, first world problem if ever there was one. lol
 

ca1ore

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It’s also possible that the drysides are of differing vintage - easy enough to swap in the driver box.
 

jsvand5

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I think you're right, because the depth and spacing of the holes looks too perfect NOT to be factory, unless whoever put them in is very good. I just don't get why only one of them has the screws, and the other is just the cemented down plate.

I tried them on a 3/4" piece of wood, as you suggested, and the dry sides definitely sounded a lot better. The wet sides still seem questionable, so maybe I'll just order new ones, we'll see.

Between two wet sides, and two QD drivers, that's basically the cost of two Gyre 350's. Hence the struggle. I know, I know, first world problem if ever there was one. lol

If I were you I’d sell these with the issues disclosed. Use the cash to get your gyres. I’ve heard some of these older MP60s. They are definitely louder then the new gyres even in great condition.
 
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Mike.P

Mike.P

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It’s also possible that the drysides are of differing vintage - easy enough to swap in the driver box.

That's one thing I definitely like about their design, being able to swap in new components is awesome... On that note, can anyone explain to me how changing the drivers makes them run quieter? I get that it gives it different run modes, ramp ups/downs, etc., but it's still the same motor, the same gearing, the same bearings, and everything else. Unless the new drivers just nerf down their output, I don't see how it can reduce noise. But I suppose that's why I'm not an engineer. Well, not that kind of engineer anyway. Haha!
 

ca1ore

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You’d have to go and find some of the threads at about the time the QD drivers first came out. There was a video from Tim Marks of ETM that broadly explained it. Something about how the QD drives the dryside along its entire circumference versus just a few points. I had an older MP60 (which you could hear upstairs) and bought the retrofit driver and it reduced the noise as advertised.
 
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Mike.P

Mike.P

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Just an update... I'm pretty much done refurbishing both of them. Brand new wet-sides, and QD drivers installed, which definitely made a huge diffrence in noise! All the proper spacers and hangers have arrived as well.

I'm in the process of masking off the dry sides right now, to cover all of the openings, the back, and the face, after which I'll spray on a new rubber coating. I actually found some dark maroon Plasti-Dip, and am going to try that first; I think that will make them blend in with the wall behind the tank. If it looks horrible, I can just peel it off and use black. lol

What are your thoughts on using these on a Reefer XXL 625? I looked at Ecotech's calculator, and going by that they may be overkill. Should I try running them, or maybe try to sell or trade them for some MP40's?
 

Potatohead

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Just use them and run them at lower speed, they’ll be quieter and also move more water with lower force. That is one heck of a score!

Also after hearing the helicopter noise myself recently and replacing a wet side, along with reading the above I’m going to start removing the magnet/prop assembly from my vinegar soaks.
 

Ben Pedersen

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Just an update... I'm pretty much done refurbishing both of them. Brand new wet-sides, and QD drivers installed, which definitely made a huge diffrence in noise! All the proper spacers and hangers have arrived as well.

I'm in the process of masking off the dry sides right now, to cover all of the openings, the back, and the face, after which I'll spray on a new rubber coating. I actually found some dark maroon Plasti-Dip, and am going to try that first; I think that will make them blend in with the wall behind the tank. If it looks horrible, I can just peel it off and use black. lol

What are your thoughts on using these on a Reefer XXL 625? I looked at Ecotech's calculator, and going by that they may be overkill. Should I try running them, or maybe try to sell or trade them for some MP40's?
If you ever sell your MP60s, please let me know! I need them for a 300 gall Im setting up. Having a hard time finding used.
 

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