CalmSeasQuest's Big Blue Wall
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CalmSeasQuest
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A whopping $13 investment on Amazon - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085UPTT4/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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CalmSeasQuest
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Since the tank has been delayed another week, I'm working on the plumbing, auto water change (ATO) and Constant Water Change (CWC). One of the challenges with the CWC is achieving the exact same rates for the removal of old saltwater and new saltwater replacement. Despite using a Masterflex peristaltic pump driving 2 pump heads at the exact same RPM, there will likely still be a difference in flow as one head will be pumping water against a ~10 head , while the other is drawing water, aided by gravity. My plan was to use a pinch valve on the faster line...
But I think I've found a better solution. Cole-Parmer makes pump heads that provide the ability to vary the occlusion rate (amount of pressure placed on the tubing by the rollers.)
I'll replace one of the fixed-occlusion pumps currently installed with the variable model. By slightly reducing the occlusion of the faster line (likely the drain), I hope to be able to tune the CWC pumps to run at the same rate. The 4 rollers should prevent any siphon.
My plan for the ATO is to use another Cole-Parmer pump and the left-over fixed occlusion pump head. Although I could rig a series of floats managed by the Apex, I've had great success with Tunze Osmolators, and will use another on this built with a Switched Socket Outlet, This allows me to replace the stock Osmolator pump with the Masterflex which provide adjustable flow rates, is impervious to the Kalk-laden top off water and can easily handle the head pressure.
But I think I've found a better solution. Cole-Parmer makes pump heads that provide the ability to vary the occlusion rate (amount of pressure placed on the tubing by the rollers.)
I'll replace one of the fixed-occlusion pumps currently installed with the variable model. By slightly reducing the occlusion of the faster line (likely the drain), I hope to be able to tune the CWC pumps to run at the same rate. The 4 rollers should prevent any siphon.
My plan for the ATO is to use another Cole-Parmer pump and the left-over fixed occlusion pump head. Although I could rig a series of floats managed by the Apex, I've had great success with Tunze Osmolators, and will use another on this built with a Switched Socket Outlet, This allows me to replace the stock Osmolator pump with the Masterflex which provide adjustable flow rates, is impervious to the Kalk-laden top off water and can easily handle the head pressure.
digitaledge
Active Member
Looking Good!! Following...
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CalmSeasQuest
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Welcome aboard, thanks for tagging along!
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CalmSeasQuest
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Most of the plumbing components are in....
Strangely, I find that I am 4 nipples short (leave it alone :))
The Pukani has been bleached, followed by 3 rounds of vinegar baths, then 3 rounds of Lanthanum Chloride and numerous rinses.
You can see where much of the coral skeleton on the exterior has been dissolved. I also like that the underlying rock appears much more porous That said, in retrospect I wish I had just ordered more Reef Saver or Marco and avoided all the hassle - especially since there will be additional biological filtration provided by the Marine Pure spheres and plates.
As most of the recent purchases have been unexciting PVC plumbing, I ordered a couple of "trinkets" today...
The Neptune probe holder looked like it would be right at home in my sump.
A large shelf piece of Aquaroche in an attempt to further complicate my aquascape.
A small collection of Monti frags, that by the time this tank is ready for them, will no doubt be large colonies....
Back Row-Ora German Blue Digi, Green Digi, Orang Digi, Original Setosa
Middle Row- Tyree Undata, Tyree Pokerstar
Front Row- Orange Cap, Tyree Idaho Grape Cap, Leng Sy Cap, Green Cap, Tyree Aquatubericulata
And a pack of Chalices at a price I couldn't resist...
Strangely, I find that I am 4 nipples short (leave it alone :))
The Pukani has been bleached, followed by 3 rounds of vinegar baths, then 3 rounds of Lanthanum Chloride and numerous rinses.
You can see where much of the coral skeleton on the exterior has been dissolved. I also like that the underlying rock appears much more porous That said, in retrospect I wish I had just ordered more Reef Saver or Marco and avoided all the hassle - especially since there will be additional biological filtration provided by the Marine Pure spheres and plates.
As most of the recent purchases have been unexciting PVC plumbing, I ordered a couple of "trinkets" today...
The Neptune probe holder looked like it would be right at home in my sump.
A large shelf piece of Aquaroche in an attempt to further complicate my aquascape.
A small collection of Monti frags, that by the time this tank is ready for them, will no doubt be large colonies....
Back Row-Ora German Blue Digi, Green Digi, Orang Digi, Original Setosa
Middle Row- Tyree Undata, Tyree Pokerstar
Front Row- Orange Cap, Tyree Idaho Grape Cap, Leng Sy Cap, Green Cap, Tyree Aquatubericulata
And a pack of Chalices at a price I couldn't resist...
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CalmSeasQuest
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Thanks for tagging along!
I hope so, if the weather ever warms up enough so you can send them to me :wink:
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CalmSeasQuest
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Got the fill/drain, ATO and CWC lines ran to the tank area...
I replaced the top 3/4" pressure line with a 1/2" Fill/Drain line. Using a T, a Wye and 3 valves, this single line/manifold can,
Fill/drain, RO/DI Kalk auto top-off, new saltwater in, old saltwater out.
With any luck, this should mean I can ditch a bunch of buckets :)
I replaced the top 3/4" pressure line with a 1/2" Fill/Drain line. Using a T, a Wye and 3 valves, this single line/manifold can,
- Feed RO/DI or ASW to the DT or stock tank in the basement
- Drain the DT via siphon (~3GPM) or faster via manifold pressure line
- Fill a local container with ASW or RO/DI
- Drain the ASW or RO/DI tank
Fill/drain, RO/DI Kalk auto top-off, new saltwater in, old saltwater out.
With any luck, this should mean I can ditch a bunch of buckets :)
Looking great. Looking forward to seeing this in operation.
bknapp
Has been left unattended
I've used that same GFCI plug and at about a year they start to malfunction and just trip for unknown reasons. You may want to reconsider those and maybe have an electrician wire them in permanently.
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CalmSeasQuest
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Thanks for the info. I went with these as they auto-reset in case of a power outage and so I could easily replace them if they went bad and if they trip when running on the back-up generator.
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CalmSeasQuest
Well-Known Member
Finally, a glimpse of glass :)
Steve sent a couple snap-shots of the tank and sump...
96" X 30" X 22" ~270 GAL
Overflow is sized for 3 X 1 1/2" Bean Animal style drains with 1" return feeding 2 X 3/4" loclines. Top bracing is acrylic to minimize light blockage/shadowing
72" X 24" X 18" with 1 1/2" baffles set at 10" for skimmer/return and 12" prop/fuge
Steve sent a couple snap-shots of the tank and sump...
96" X 30" X 22" ~270 GAL
Overflow is sized for 3 X 1 1/2" Bean Animal style drains with 1" return feeding 2 X 3/4" loclines. Top bracing is acrylic to minimize light blockage/shadowing
72" X 24" X 18" with 1 1/2" baffles set at 10" for skimmer/return and 12" prop/fuge
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Tank and sump look good!
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CalmSeasQuest
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Thanks Rev :)
Thanks for the heads up - I'll see if I can source Titanium screws.
Thanks, although hold that thought - let's see what it looks like after I finish plumbing the display. :neutral:
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CalmSeasQuest
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Apparently acquiring anything BubbleKing or Vertex does strange things to a marine aquarist.
Prior to this build, had anyone told me I'd be buying red PVC or tubing, I'd have thought them NUTS :)
The red PVC is for the discharge on the Vertex media reactors. The red silicone tubing will feed the reactors from the manifold.
Tank is being delivered Sunday at Noon!
Prior to this build, had anyone told me I'd be buying red PVC or tubing, I'd have thought them NUTS :)
The red PVC is for the discharge on the Vertex media reactors. The red silicone tubing will feed the reactors from the manifold.
Tank is being delivered Sunday at Noon!
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