Can DI Resin produce ammonia from nothing? New system?

jjdh850 · Feb 9, 2023

Hello all, New to the reefing thing. Let me start off with the issue at hand. We just filled our new tank (120 gallon with 50 gallon sump) with rodi water from a used 4 stage brs unit. I replaced all cartridges except for the membrane to start out with a kit from brs. I ran the system for about 30 minutes backflushing the membrane before attempting to make water and let it run for about 3 hours prior to filling. Unfortunately, we did not test the water other than the tds before filling the tank. (Didn't think there was a need to) My wife added the ammonia to the tank per instructions, and we added microbacter our LFS suggested for establishing. Testing after day 1, our ammonia level was through the roof. (Beyond api test kit and LFS aquaspin test)

We double checked freshwater incoming to the rodi, still 0. I then tested at the outgoing side of the membrane. It showed 0 as well. Once the water runs through the di dual bed resin, we have our issue. Even after filling the tank ( approx 140 gallons) and filling a 32 gallon Brute, tds is still 0 and ammonia is at 1ppm!? HOW?

I have called BRS and they are completely stumped as well. There suggestion was to just run with it and let it cycle out. They didn't want the lot # or even want to suggest there might be a problem with the di resin. Color has changed on the resin, after all the use its 2 inches used up on the canister. After a 1 1/2 weeks, we are still off the chart on ammonia, .25 nitrite and 20ppm nitrate. Currently holding these numbers for the past 4 days.

Our community well water is tested annually and does not have any chloramines or chlorine in it or added. TDS incoming is 150 outgoing is 0. The tank has caribsea live sand. Caribsea life rock with their South seas base rock, both say no curing required. Salt mix is instant ocean reef crystals.

I don't want to empty out and start over, but will if needed. Anyone have this happen?

Eagle_Steve · Feb 9, 2023

jjdh850 said:
Hello all, New to the reefing thing. Let me start off with the issue at hand. We just filled our new tank (120 gallon with 50 gallon sump) with rodi water from a used 4 stage brs unit. I replaced all cartridges except for the membrane to start out with a kit from brs. I ran the system for about 30 minutes backflushing the membrane before attempting to make water and let it run for about 3 hours prior to filling. Unfortunately, we did not test the water other than the tds before filling the tank. (Didn't think there was a need to) My wife added the ammonia to the tank per instructions, and we added microbacter our LFS suggested for establishing. Testing after day 1, our ammonia level was through the roof. (Beyond api test kit and LFS aquaspin test)

We double checked freshwater incoming to the rodi, still 0. I then tested at the outgoing side of the membrane. It showed 0 as well. Once the water runs through the di dual bed resin, we have our issue. Even after filling the tank ( approx 140 gallons) and filling a 32 gallon Brute, tds is still 0 and ammonia is at 1ppm!? HOW?

I have called BRS and they are completely stumped as well. There suggestion was to just run with it and let it cycle out. They didn't want the lot # or even want to suggest there might be a problem with the di resin. Color has changed on the resin, after all the use its 2 inches used up on the canister. After a 1 1/2 weeks, we are still off the chart on ammonia, .25 nitrite and 20ppm nitrate. Currently holding these numbers for the past 4 days.

Our community well water is tested annually and does not have any chloramines or chlorine in it or added. TDS incoming is 150 outgoing is 0. The tank has caribsea live sand. Caribsea life rock with their South seas base rock, both say no curing required. Salt mix is instant ocean reef crystals.

I don't want to empty out and start over, but will if needed. Anyone have this happen?

Not sure if DI can do this, as never seen it and I have used tons of brands of DI over the years.

One thing I can think of is when you dosed ammonia.I know this will not explain the ammonia test on DI water, but I wonder if it is just a false read.

When you dosed ammonia, did you dose it based on the listed tank and sump volume? Or did you dose it off of how much water you actually have?

If dosed based on listed volumes, then it will be an overdose. The rock and sand need to be accounted for when it comes to total tank volume. For example you have 170 gallons of "listed" water. More than likely the sump does not have 50 gallons in it, as you need room for back flow, etc. etc.. So if you dosed for 170 gallons, overdose. If you dosed for 120 gallons, overdose more than likely. That is where I would start looking first.

If using API, I would not trust it for RODI water. Just for fun and I had the test kits out to test a small tank I am setting up, I tested my RODI container with API and got a green around .5 and 1 (say .75, as was kind of in-between the 2 greens on the card). My salifert shows 0 for the same water. My hanna shows .02, which is within the (I believe) .05 margin of error.

I hope this makes sense, as I am not the best at explaining this stuff lol.

jjdh850 · Feb 9, 2023

Between rock, sand equipment, etc, I calc'd it out at 120 total. We dosed for 120. On testing the rodi water, I'd say it was closer to the .75 number as well. The local lfs said api is really only good for above 1 and max of 6. I saw a post on another site claiming the di resin could possibly bind with something in the water and produce a gas form of ammonia, but didn't have any other info.

EricR · Feb 9, 2023

No idea but any chance your source water is treated with chloramines and your carbon block isn't doing its job, breaking it down but leaving the ammonia part?
*no idea what ammonia test would do on source water with chloramines

jjdh850 · Feb 9, 2023

EricR said:
No idea but any chance your source water is treated with chloramines and your carbon block isn't doing its job, breaking it down but leaving the ammonia part?
*no idea what ammonia test would do on source water with chloramines

As I put in the post, no there are none

ptrick21186 · Feb 9, 2023

jjdh850 said:
We double checked freshwater incoming to the rodi, still 0. I then tested at the outgoing side of the membrane. It showed 0 as well. Once the water runs through the di dual bed resin, we have our issue. Even after filling the tank ( approx 140 gallons) and filling a 32 gallon Brute, tds is still 0 and ammonia is at 1ppm!? HOW?

Ok so you tested ammonia from just your fresh water at this point correct? And got 0 ammonia before and after the membrane but the freshwater after the DI is 1ppm? You're not adding it to the tank before checking it correct?

ptrick21186 · Feb 9, 2023

jjdh850 said:
After a 1 1/2 weeks, we are still off the chart on ammonia, .25 nitrite and 20ppm nitrate. Currently holding these numbers for the past 4 days.

1 1/2 weeks is still in the middle of the cycle. With the exception of the ammonia I'd say this is pretty normal. Perhaps try a different ammonia test. My recommendation is to keep dosing the Microbacter as per the instructions and let the cycle do it's thing.

V A R I A N T · Feb 9, 2023

This was interesting - at 9:45ish mark it is discussed that depending on the pH of the water, silica and ammonia can be completely passed through the DI resin as the material cannot absorb it.