Can i drill Marineland 75 reef ready?

mad1ben2

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Hi... new here... I'll go post an introduction shortly but need to ask a question now.

I bought a used Marineland Reef Ready 75g tank... so it's currently drilled in back left bottom corner. I want to plug those 2 holes and drill the back for an external overflow and returns.

In all my research it seems ML tanks can be drilled (obviously will void warranty).

When I do the tempered glass test it appears the bottom and all sides are tempered... is that possible? Do they tempered the bottom after they drill for RR setup? Am I doing the test wrong?

To test I am placing a white cell phone screen on one side of the glass and looking through a pair of polarized sunglasses I slowly rotate the lens in a circle... if as I turn the sunglasses they turn black (can't see through the lens) I thought that meant the glass was tempered.

I emailed ML a solid week ago without any response.

I need to figure this out asap as I have livestock in temporary holding tanks while I reconfigure the 75.

Thx! Scott
 

Gernader

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The bottom glass is tempered. All other sides are not, so you can drill the back. I have the same exact tank and I have an external overflow on the back.
 
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mad1ben2

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Thx for the prompt response.

That would be great, but what am I doing wrong with my "tempered glass test" that I get same results for bottom and back glass? And how did ML drill the bottom if its tempered? Do they drill them temper?

Again I greatly appreciate your response but I need to convince myself via some test before I start drilling. Can't afford to do something stupid

And obviously ML and Aqueon are totally different companies, but it's been confirmed that Aqueon uses both types of glass on any side/ bottom of their tanks (based on what glass they have on hand) and it is hit or miss... with those tanks one must confirm via test before drilling...
 

Gernader

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Thx for the prompt response.

That would be great, but what am I doing wrong with my "tempered glass test" that I get same results for bottom and back glass? And how did ML drill the bottom if its tempered? Do they drill them temper?

Again I greatly appreciate your response but I need to convince myself via some test before I start drilling. Can't afford to do something stupid

And obviously ML and Aqueon are totally different companies, but it's been confirmed that Aqueon uses both types of glass on any side/ bottom of their tanks (based on what glass they have on hand) and it is hit or miss... with those tanks one must confirm via test before drilling...
Honestly, I’m not sure about the glass test as I didn‘t do it. I did some research before by going on their site and they had information on what glass is tempered. Here are some old pics of my tank to make sure that you have the same one.

285FFDBE-9558-4BC8-A9A5-DB8EBB54FA87.jpeg
5DF9F7B5-72CE-4360-A87F-2FC86A4A137B.jpeg
 

cwerner

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I'm pretty sure that Marineland tanks can come from different sources, and differ on whether the sides are tempered or not. The bottom is almost always tempered. I was able to drill a Marineland tank myself on the sides, but the bottom is tempered.
 
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mad1ben2

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Nice and looks like mine from what I can tell. Is that the Fiji cube 1200 ext overflow? That's what I bought.

My setup will be very similar... was the "estimated" water line on the drilling template accurate? I am ocd and with rimmed tanks a hate it if the water level can be seen below the tank rim... also where did you drill the returns? Meaning holes are centered how far from top and sides?

Planning on using 3/4" locline with the RFG heads... want to minimize the amount of water that siphon back to sump when power is off (but not willing to put in $100+ true wye check valves... would rather run returns high (with siphon break hole?) to minimize amount that drains back to sump).

Planning 750-900 gph total across 2 returns. Might be too much flow for sump however sump design is still being questioned. This will be a FOWLR tank. 30g sump with skimmer section and refugium... currently no way to send reduced flow to fuge while majority runs through skimmer section so I need to redesign it.
 
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mad1ben2

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Cwerner, thx... any idea the process ML uses to make their RR tanks? Specifically do they have a way to drill tempered glass bottoms or do they temper after drilling? I don't even know if that's possible or not.
 

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Hi... new here... I'll go post an introduction shortly but need to ask a question now.

I bought a used Marineland Reef Ready 75g tank... so it's currently drilled in back left bottom corner. I want to plug those 2 holes and drill the back for an external overflow and returns.

In all my research it seems ML tanks can be drilled (obviously will void warranty).

When I do the tempered glass test it appears the bottom and all sides are tempered... is that possible? Do they tempered the bottom after they drill for RR setup? Am I doing the test wrong?

To test I am placing a white cell phone screen on one side of the glass and looking through a pair of polarized sunglasses I slowly rotate the lens in a circle... if as I turn the sunglasses they turn black (can't see through the lens) I thought that meant the glass was tempered.

I emailed ML a solid week ago without any response.

I need to figure this out asap as I have livestock in temporary holding tanks while I reconfigure the 75.

Thx! Scott
When the lens turns completely blank/black, that is regular plate glass. Tempered will show as having stripes. There are plenty of youtube videos on this. I have an older Marineland 125 and there is a sticker on the bottom stating tempered but the sides are not. I contacted Marineland and they verified the sides are not. I also did the sunglasses test with my laptop to double check. As I understand it, the reef ready tanks have the holes drilled in the bottom before the glass is tempered.
 

Gernader

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Nice and looks like mine from what I can tell. Is that the Fiji cube 1200 ext overflow? That's what I bought.

My setup will be very similar... was the "estimated" water line on the drilling template accurate? I am ocd and with rimmed tanks a hate it if the water level can be seen below the tank rim... also where did you drill the returns? Meaning holes are centered how far from top and sides?

Planning on using 3/4" locline with the RFG heads... want to minimize the amount of water that siphon back to sump when power is off (but not willing to put in $100+ true wye check valves... would rather run returns high (with siphon break hole?) to minimize amount that drains back to sump).

Planning 750-900 gph total across 2 returns. Might be too much flow for sump however sump design is still being questioned. This will be a FOWLR tank. 30g sump with skimmer section and refugium... currently no way to send reduced flow to fuge while majority runs through skimmer section so I need to redesign it.
Thanks! The overflow is a Eshopps Eclipse L. My water line is like 1.5” from the top, so I see the water line just a little bit. However, I have a lot of flow in my tank, so the water line keeps moving up higher to the rim. The returns were drilled from top left and top right corners to have two returns. They are drilled right below the rim of the tank (no space at all between the rim and the hole) and about 2” away from the side of the tank. Hope that helps!
 
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mad1ben2

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Thanks! The overflow is a Eshopps Eclipse L. My water line is like 1.5” from the top, so I see the water line just a little bit. However, I have a lot of flow in my tank, so the water line keeps moving up higher to the rim. The returns were drilled from top left and top right corners to have two returns. They are drilled right below the rim of the tank (no space at all between the rim and the hole) and about 2” away from the side of the tank. Hope that helps!
Great thx! When you say the return holes are right below the rim does that mean once bulkhead is installed that it butts to rim or does the hole itself actually butt to the rim, which means a portion of the rim had to be cut out for the bulkhead or you had to use extra spacer/gasket to allow bulkhead to sit on/over rim?
 
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mad1ben2

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When the lens turns completely blank/black, that is regular plate glass. Tempered will show as having stripes. There are plenty of youtube videos on this. I have an older Marineland 125 and there is a sticker on the bottom stating tempered but the sides are not. I contacted Marineland and they verified the sides are not. I also did the sunglasses test with my laptop to double check. As I understand it, the reef ready tanks have the holes drilled in the bottom before the glass is tempered.
Well heck... maybe I got the test backwards! I'll go back and watch more videos... thanks!

P.s. I do get the same test results for bottom and back glass... does that then mean the bottom isn't tempered after all?
 

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Well heck... maybe I got the test backwards! I'll go back and watch more videos... thanks!

P.s. I do get the same test results for bottom and back glass... does that then mean the bottom isn't tempered after all?
I would say bottom not then. The test works when you get it right. Mine has a orange sticker on the bottom. Tempered Glass Do Not Drill. You could double check with Marineland like I did. The fella answered without hesitation that only the bottom was tempered. He sounded like he had been asked a hundred times . LOL
 

Gernader

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Great thx! When you say the return holes are right below the rim does that mean once bulkhead is installed that it butts to rim or does the hole itself actually butt to the rim, which means a portion of the rim had to be cut out for the bulkhead or you had to use extra spacer/gasket to allow bulkhead to sit on/over rim?
Sorry, I meant once the bulkheads are installed, they sit right below the rim. I didn’t do anything to the rim itself.
 
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mad1ben2

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I would say bottom not then. The test works when you get it right. Mine has a orange sticker on the bottom. Tempered Glass Do Not Drill. You could double check with Marineland like I did. The fella answered without hesitation that only the bottom was tempered. He sounded like he had been asked a hundred times . LOL
I did reach out to them via email a week ago and have received nothing. Thank you so much for correcting me on the proper test... I had it backwards.

That was a costly mistake as my original plan was to buy a 75 from petco before the $1/gal sale was over. Went the last day of sale and tested the 1 75 they had in stock... passed as I believed it to be tempered (but now realize it wasn't). I would then have simply sold the ML RR and gotten more than the cost of the petco tank. Not only do I have to plug existing bottom holes and drill 4 holes in back, but I have to remove overflow corner box and scrape thick blue paint off back glass as I much prefer black background over blue... would have been easier to just sell it and drill Aqueon tank . If there is a positive, I presume a ML tank is superior quality over an Aqueon...
 

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Whatever you end up doing, please come back and post pics/give us an update. Even if it shatters! This kind of information helps others in the future.
 
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mad1ben2

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Whatever you end up doing, please come back and post pics/give us an update. Even if it shatters! This kind of information helps others in the future.
Will do. Plan is to get it drilled this weekend and get it set up in the garage and test everything before moving into house... need to take my time as I also have to build a new stand or put a fascia on the existing stand (stained 2x4s and plywood) to make the wife happy... she's allergic to "home made" looking stands so I have to make one (yes, home made) that doesn't look home made... arrgh... wish me luck!

Would consider buying a stand but I prefer a height of at least 40" for ideal viewing in the location its going and all stands I've found (haven't searched a ton) are significantly shorter...

If anyone knows of a nice looking black stand w/ doors that is at least 40" high please let me know... however, not going to pay more than a few hundred bucks...
 

Rubberfrog

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Will do. Plan is to get it drilled this weekend and get it set up in the garage and test everything before moving into house... need to take my time as I also have to build a new stand or put a fascia on the existing stand (stained 2x4s and plywood) to make the wife happy... she's allergic to "home made" looking stands so I have to make one (yes, home made) that doesn't look home made... arrgh... wish me luck!

Would consider buying a stand but I prefer a height of at least 40" for ideal viewing in the location its going and all stands I've found (haven't searched a ton) are significantly shorter...

If anyone knows of a nice looking black stand w/ doors that is at least 40" high please let me know... however, not going to pay more than a few hundred bucks...
That might be hard to build for less than a few hundred bucks. I've made quite a few stands, you shouldn't have much trouble making something she will appreciate.
 

HJ99

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Will do. Plan is to get it drilled this weekend and get it set up in the garage and test everything before moving into house... need to take my time as I also have to build a new stand or put a fascia on the existing stand (stained 2x4s and plywood) to make the wife happy... she's allergic to "home made" looking stands so I have to make one (yes, home made) that doesn't look home made... arrgh... wish me luck!

Would consider buying a stand but I prefer a height of at least 40" for ideal viewing in the location its going and all stands I've found (haven't searched a ton) are significantly shorter...

If anyone knows of a nice looking black stand w/ doors that is at least 40" high please let me know... however, not going to pay more than a few hundred bucks...
I know all about changing plans. We bought the 125 used and planned to drill for overflow etc. but it had so many scratches we decided on getting a new 180 reef ready. Problem is getting one. Seems there is a glass shortage and other issues.

As for ML vrs Aqueon, I don't know any significant issues although I have seen a lot of failure posts with the large Marinelands and they told me they are not planning to produce any over 120g in the future. We are waiting on an Aqueon now.

As for a stand you could do as I did. We plan on getting the cheap pine stand and painting it. The floor where it will go is uneven and I wanted to spread the load. So I made a platform of 2x4 with 3/4 inch Advantec on top and trimmed it with PVC corner molding. I leveled it with plastic shims and painted. I think it looks pretty nice and besides having a nice flat surface and spreading the load it raises the tank 4 1/4 " You could use 2x6 if you want it even higher.
 
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mad1ben2

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... However, I have a lot of flow in my tank...
Can I ask what pump you're using and an approx of how many gph you believe you're pushing through the sump?

Do you have a fuge? If so, is all your flow going through it?
 

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