Can i drill Marineland 75 reef ready?

[mad1ben2]

Thanks for the stand ideas...

 

[Gernader]

Can I ask what pump you're using and an approx of how many gph you believe you're pushing through the sump?

Do you have a fuge? If so, is all your flow going through it?

I'm using a Jebao DCT 8000 return pump and it's at 40% right now, so I think it's about 845 gph. My sump is getting good amount of flow and I have a happy chaeto in there. I also have 2 MP40s in the tank and it's around 95x turnover rate since I have SPS.

 

[mad1ben2]

I'm using a Jebao DCT 8000 return pump and it's at 40% right now, so I think it's about 845 gph. My sump is getting good amount of flow and I have a happy chaeto in there. I also have 2 MP40s in the tank and it's around 95x turnover rate since I have SPS.

Great thx... that is massive flow! I ordered the 3100gph

Orlushy 24V DC Aquarium Water Pump Ultra-Quiet Return Pump​

From checking charts and my ~12' head pressure I should be within the range I want without maxing out the pump. This is primarily only going to be a FOWLR tank so I may not need that high of a turnover rate through the sump... have to research the value of fuge in my setup vs no fuge and maybe larger skimmer... the one that came with is the Reef Octo Classic INT 110...

 

[mad1ben2]

Well many thanks for the ok to drill comments... got a lot done this weekend.

Got all holes drilled in back of tank for overflow and returns. Scraped all the old blue paint off the back and repainted it black. Removed the ML Reef Ready internal overflow box and capped off the bulkheads... redesigned the sump to put skimmer section before the fuge... started re-plumbing...

Ran into 2 issues I could use help on -
1. It seems the glass is etched where the overflow box was siliconed to the tank... that's not a big deal on the back or bottom but I have a noticeable vertical line about 1/4" wide running down the middle of the left side panel. It can't be removed with a razor blade...

2. The brace across the top of the tank is cracked badly at the back edge of the tank... maybe 75% broken...

Found a sticker that tank was built in 2014 and presume it's been up and running ever since.

Should I try to buff out the etched glass with cerium oxide? Is there some other trick? I haven't added water back to see how bad the etched mark looks when filled w water...

As for the brace, I presume there is an easy way to redo or brace the broken brace?

 

[mad1ben2]

The bottom glass is tempered. All other sides are not, so you can drill the back. I have the same exact tank and I have an external overflow on the back.

When you removed the internal overflow box was the glass etched where it was glued?

 

[Gernader]

When you removed the internal overflow box was the glass etched where it was glued?

I don’t think it was, but I might be wrong. I got the tank a while ago that I can’t remember.

 

[mad1ben2]

I don’t think it was, but I might be wrong. I got the tank a while ago that I can’t remember.

Thanks