Can I fit _____? - Guide to tank sizes for fish

kangadrew

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In this thread, I'll share my thoughts on tank sizes for marine fish. Coming from a math background, I'll have to include some math in here - but I promise it's simple!

There are many factors to "tank size". There's volume, which the opens up to the volume of your system. Then you've got distance measurements, the most common being length. However, there is definitely merit to working with width and height when determining an appropriate aquarium size for a fish. Another distance measurement that I think is often overlooked in fishkeeping is the maximum swimming distance - that is, how far can your fish swim in a straight line without being interrupted? Sometimes this is the length of the aquarium, but it can be longer or shorter based on your aquascape.

So, how would you go about deciding on a tank size for any given fish?
Simply put, there isn't a "do-it-all" formula for this.

The first step in determining a tank size - is determining the size of your fish.
Many fish will NOT reach their maximum size in captivity, for any number of reasons. Stunting is usually what comes to mind first - that is, the fish had some kind of environmental issue that didn't allow it to grow to its full potential - but it is my belief that simple genetics are often the cause of this. Think about it - the tallest human ever was about 9 feet tall, and the heaviest was about 1400 lbs. How many people do you know that are even close to 9'/1400 lbs? The average human is nowhere near the size of the maximum human - not because of any growth issues, but simply because their genetics don't allow them to grow that tall.
So if a fish isn't going to reach its maximum size, how big is it going to get? Again, there's no answer that is universal - but my experience, and many others', has been that fish in an aquarium will reach an average of 65-75% of their maximum size. (Note: if you prefer fractions, this is equal to about 2/3 to 3/4 the maximum size.)
For instance - yellow tangs reach a maximum size of about 8 inches. So using our formula, we can see that the average yellow tang in an aquarium will reach about 5-6 inches long.
Now, of course, there are exceptions to this rule - and you should research this based on the individual fish you want to keep. But on average, fish will reach 65-75% of their maximum length in your aquarium.

Now that we've defined how big our fish is likely to get - we will need to classify it based on its swimming patterns. For this, we can define three patterns - sedentary, hovering, and darting.
Now, if you're experienced with fish - you'll often know which category a fish falls into. But if you aren't, there is a way to determine it, that does take some time. In order to do it "scientifically", observe multiple specimens of the given fish often - 20-30 times, and even more is better. On each observation, note what the fish is doing - is it sitting still, is it "hovering" around the rock, or is it darting across the tank? Assign a value to each - sitting still is a "1", hovering is a "2", and darting is a "3". At the end of your observations (again, at least 20 would be preferable, with more being better), add up all the values you have recorded, and divide it by the number of observations - in other words, take the average of the values. This value, which will likely be a decimal number, should represent the average swimming pattern of the fish. If it is in the range of 1-1.3, it is safe to say the fish is often sedentary. If it is in the range of 1.4-1.6, you are in sort of a "grey area", where I feel it is best to classify the fish as a hovering species. From 1.7-2.3, you are safely in the range of a hovering species. Again from 2.4-2.6, you are in another "grey area", and I feel it is better to classify the fish as a darting species - and of course from 2.7 to 3, the fish would be classified as a darting species.
A much simpler and less scientific way to do this, is to simply ask the knowledgeable members on this forum how they'd classify the fish :)
For reference, here are some rough classifications for different types of fish:
  • Anglerfish/scorpionfish, lionfish, and gobies can be classified as sedentary
    • Eels can also be included in this category - but in determining a tank size, using their full predicted length is overkill - taking 30-35% or 1/3 of their predicted length is okay
    • For seahorses, which can also fit into this category, taking 50% of 1/2 of the fish's predicted height is okay
  • Anthias, clownfish/damselfish, butterflyfish/angelfish, and triggerfish can be classified as hovering
  • Tangs, most wrasses, and moorish idols can be classified as darting

So you've determined how big your fish is going to get, and how it's going to swim - that's great! You've gotten two of the most important parts out of the way. Now, we can discuss tank sizes.

This is a topic of great debate, and what I'm posting is sure to spark some debate in the comments below - but these are what I feel to be proper formulas in determining the minimum tank size for most saltwater fish.
A note before I show the formulas - I believe that the maximum straight shot distance is equally important as the length and width of the tank. I don't think length is as important, I don't think width is as important - but I do think that added together, they are equally important. So, I will be including the maximum swimming distance and the combined length and width of the tank. This isn't meant to scare anyone off with the math - just to help create an ecosystem properly sized to a given fish!

For sedentary fish, that tend to sit still most of the time - aim for a maximum swimming distance of at least 4 times the length of the fish and a length and width of the tank that combine to be at least 6 times the length of the fish.

For hovering fish, that tend to hover around the rockwork, or fish that tend to equally mix their time between actively swimming and sitting still - aim for a maximum swimming distance of at least 5 times the length of the fish and a length and width of the tank that combine to be at least 8 times the length of the fish.

For darting fish, that are more often than not observed darting across the tank - aim for a maximum swimming distance of at least 8 times the length of the fish and a length and width of the tank that combine to be at least 12 times the length of the fish.

These formulas may seem to recommend very large tanks for some fish - and they are, if you're going on the maximum wild length of the fish. But when you use the maximum expected length of the fish, it is perfectly reasonable. For example, let's use a yellow tang that we expect to be up to 6" long in our tank. This would be a darting fish, so we want a maximum swimming distance (bit more on that later) of at least 48 inches, and a combined length and width adding up to 72 inches.
This means that in standard rectangular tanks, a tank 5 feet long and 1 foot wide is fine for the average yellow tang - which, in my opinion, is a perfect size tank for a yellow tang.
But for those wanting a square or cube tank - can they get away with a smaller tank? With proper aquascaping, yes.

This is where the maximum swimming distance comes into play. In square and cube tanks, where a fish can swim from one corner to the other - there is a great ratio of tank length to maximum swimming length (the best you can get, mathematically speaking). Since we said that a yellow tang needs an average uninterrupted space of 48 inches to swim - that means that we can keep a straight path from one corner of the tank to the other, and if it is 48 inches, we are in good shape. Using triangles (specifically the Pythagorean Theorem, a^2+b^2=c^2), we will find that a tank that is 36x36" around will give us 48 inches of uninterrupted swimming space. And since adding up 36 and 36 will give us 72, we also have a sizeable perimeter available for the fish - meaning the average yellow tang can live in a 36x36" aquarium, or a 60x12" aquarium - a statement I think few would disagree with.

Personally, I think height has limited merit. As long as your fish isn't out of the water when it's swimming vertically, you're in good shape. The decision of height comes more down to corals and aquascaping plans, rather than fish choices - IMO.

And of course, we can apply this logic to nearly any species of fish we come across in the hobby.

To conclude this post, I will say this:
In a rapidly transforming hobby, where all shapes and sizes of tanks are popular, from pico tanks of less than a gallon, to mega tanks over 20,000 gallons, and tanks ranging in shapes from cubes to cylinders to outstretched rectangles 16 feet long yet only a foot wide, fish choices become more and more difficult. What fish can live in these specialized tanks? "Is [insert option here] a good choice for my tank?" is a question often heard around the forums, and rightfully so - typical "tank size recommendation" threads only focus on typical rectangular tanks, leaving out cubical tanks, circular tanks, extra-long tanks, extra-wide tanks, and so on and so forth. So, when deciding on fish for these innovative new systems, we must take into account that the gallonage and even the length of the tank are not the only factors playing into the fish selection process.
And of course, don't shoot for the minimum. Minimum is a guideline, if you can go bigger - do it! You certainly won't regret it, especially in this hobby :)

I hope this post will help some people out - both people making their own decisions on fish, and people giving advice on fish and their needs. I encourage any discussion below, I know not everyone will agree with me and I'd love to hear your input!
Drew
 

Jesterrace

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It's an interesting take on things, certainly better than the inch per gallon rule, but there are a number of variables simply beyond max size of the fish and level of activity (ie temperament, individual personality, tank mates, etc.). Generally, I go with Live Aquaria's recommended minimum tank sizes. They aren't 100%, but pretty accurate.
 
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kangadrew

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It's an interesting take on things, certainly better than the inch per gallon rule, but there are a number of variables simply beyond max size of the fish and level of activity (ie temperament, individual personality, tank mates, etc.). Generally, I go with Live Aquaria's recommended minimum tank sizes. They aren't 100%, but pretty accurate.
Yes, this doesn't take into account tankmates - this would simply be to see if your tank is big enough.

Live Aquaria has some pretty close recommendations, but they only take volume into account - a red flag, IMO.

Drew
 

Jesterrace

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Yes, this doesn't take into account tankmates - this would simply be to see if your tank is big enough.

Live Aquaria has some pretty close recommendations, but they only take volume into account - a red flag, IMO.

Drew

I agree. I have seen a few that definitely are off there.
 

Michael Hicks

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In 30 years this analysis is one of the most interesting I’ve heard. This completely makes sense and I appreciate your taking the time and breaking it down. I would like to know what your opinion is on added flow. I have a 6ft shallow reef 24” wide and MP40s hitting top end of their available output, I have multiple tangs and I’ll tell you that my hippo will swim constantly directly in front of the pump for very long periods of time. Does this add to his/her swimming room in some ways? I’ve always heard tangs love the flow and it keeps down aggression because they think they are swimming further?? Not sure but would love your or anyone’s opinion.

Thanks again!
 

ca1ore

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Although you allude to it, the aquascape makes a big difference to the size of the fish. I've always stuck to the 8x rule of thumb. So in my 8' tank, a fish is problematic when it exceeds 12". Recently took in a 14" rehome vlamingi, and it was clearly too big. I'd not dismiss tank height too quickly. My Anthias use every inch of my tanks 30" height. Otherwise a well considered approach.
 

ThunderGoose

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Very well considered approach. Sure, as others have said, it's not perfect for every situation but it's a lot better than inches of fish per gallon or total gallons. The one hesitation I have is using the smaller "average maximum size" (65-75% of their maximum length). Fish grow to sexual adulthood quickly but then grow slowly for the rest of their lives. If you have a fish long enough (and you keep it healthy) it will eventually reach maximum. That might take 20 years for the fish to outgrow your tank for the longer lived species but the smaller, shorter lived species might reach their maximum quicker.

True, most fish don't make it to this very old age/ size (just like most people don't live to be 90 or 100) but you can't predict that and wouldn't you hate to have your beloved fish for 20 years and then have it outgrow your tank?

Well, OK, it's would be a great excuse to upgrade at that point ;).

Still, it's a much more thoughtful analysis than any other I've seen. Good work!
 
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kangadrew

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I agree. I have seen a few that definitely are off there.
They recommend 360 gallons for a brown-banded bamboo shark. Better than the disgraceful recommendation of 180 gallons, but in theory these sharks should have a 12x6' tank (or something of similar square footage), which is usually built as a pond at that size - much cheaper than a glass/acrylic tank of that size. At 30 inches depth, that's just over 1,300 gallons. And of course, this would be a minimum - something in the range of 3,000-4,000 gallons or bigger would be appreciated by these fish. They get much bigger than the babies at the LFS. 3-4 feet long and thick, too.

In 30 years this analysis is one of the most interesting I’ve heard. This completely makes sense and I appreciate your taking the time and breaking it down. I would like to know what your opinion is on added flow. I have a 6ft shallow reef 24” wide and MP40s hitting top end of their available output, I have multiple tangs and I’ll tell you that my hippo will swim constantly directly in front of the pump for very long periods of time. Does this add to his/her swimming room in some ways? I’ve always heard tangs love the flow and it keeps down aggression because they think they are swimming further?? Not sure but would love your or anyone’s opinion.

Thanks again!
No problem - thought about this for a while, and I think it does pretty well for most species. I've plugged in more and more species and I keep getting tanks that are on par with what I think the species could live comfortably in, so I would consider it successful.
30 years experience - beats mine, lol! I will give my opinion though.
A fish swimming directly against the flow would be expending energy as if it were swimming a good distance, just not changing position - similar to a treadmill. So in theory, you could get away with a smaller tank if you had areas of heavy, directed flow that the fish could swim into.
However, that is assuming that the fish chooses to swim directly into that area of flow - and wouldn't ever want to swim any other distance.
Personally, I would say that you could go down in tank size if you had an area of heavy, directed flow - but not by much. For example if a species needed an 8x2 tank, if you had that heavy flow area, 7x2 might be okay. But 6x2 would probably be too much of a stretch.
I think the ideal situation - would be to give the fish both; areas of high flow sort of like a treadmill, and long straight distances to swim, like an outdoor run.
Interesting thought, and thanks for the feedback!

Although you allude to it, the aquascape makes a big difference to the size of the fish. I've always stuck to the 8x rule of thumb. So in my 8' tank, a fish is problematic when it exceeds 12". Recently took in a 14" rehome vlamingi, and it was clearly too big. I'd not dismiss tank height too quickly. My Anthias use every inch of my tanks 30" height. Otherwise a well considered approach.
Thank you for the feedback.
I think tank height is difficult to write a rule for - the only thing I can say about it is that as long as it's possible for the fish to be in the water column and have a water column above and below the fish (could be an inch, could be several feet) - you'll be fine.
If you do give them more tank height though, they will use it. This is similar to tangs, in that if you give them more tank length, they will definitely swim it. But, to say that a yellow tang needs a 10'+ tank, is a bit excessive IMO.
I think - tank height is a variable better based on things like aquascape, coral choices, and light choices.
On the topic of tall tanks - they are a pain to aquascape, but I will say, they do allow the fish to exhibit some very natural swimming patterns, and are beautiful when done well.

Drew
 

ca1ore

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I think tank height is difficult to write a rule for.

You could apply Pythagorean to length and height just like you did the length and width. The 'longest' dimension is from bottom front corner to top back corner.
 
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kangadrew

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You could apply Pythagorean to length and height just like you did the length and width. The 'longest' dimension is from bottom front corner to top back corner.
Yes I considered this. However, it's not likely there's going to be a straight path from one 3 dimensional corner to another - and most fish wouldn't be swimming at that trajectory either. I figured it would be easier to just consider it a horizontal lines
 

brawthy

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I think this is a good start and a well-written post-but There's a bit of a rub in your approach I'll call out.

Usually, when we discuss inter and between class variability, we do not "Dummy code" our variables with numerical variables and then aggregate averages over said assignment. Class variables don't exist on a nice continuum of values so to speak like say, values from R do. As such, taking the average of dummy coded class variables can be very misleading.

In context, what does a 2.3 on your scale represent? a 3.4? What if your values are distributed in such a way that there is no recorded "2" during a trial, only "1s" and "3s", yet our mean is close to 2 ( a string of 15 1's and 15 3's for n = 30 will get you such a mean). For such a value, we'll need slightly separate tools.

A more intuitive approach may be to "work backwards". Start with fish you know belong to a particular class (tangs-big space, frogfish-not that much space). Track observations regarding the distances they swim in some time period. Then use these archtypes to classify fish whose data you also collect (This is fitting a decision plane in space).
 
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kangadrew

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I think this is a good start and a well-written post-but There's a bit of a rub in your approach I'll call out.

Usually, when we discuss inter and between class variability, we do not "Dummy code" our variables with numerical variables and then aggregate averages over said assignment. Class variables don't exist on a nice continuum of values so to speak like say, values from R do. As such, taking the average of dummy coded class variables can be very misleading.

In context, what does a 2.3 on your scale represent? a 3.4? What if your values are distributed in such a way that there is no recorded "2" during a trial, only "1s" and "3s", yet our mean is close to 2 ( a string of 15 1's and 15 3's for n = 30 will get you such a mean). For such a value, we'll need slightly separate tools.

A more intuitive approach may be to "work backwards". Start with fish you know belong to a particular class (tangs-big space, frogfish-not that much space). Track observations regarding the distances they swim in some time period. Then use these archtypes to classify fish whose data you also collect (This is fitting a decision plane in space).
Haha, I promised this would be simple math!
This could be made far more complicated, but personally I don't see much of a reason to - since this shouldn't be the "end-all" decision of yes or no for a stocking choice. There are factors that will influence the final say that cannot be calculated.

Assigning numerical values to the variables is certainly not acceptable for an official study, but for the simple purposes here, of classifying a fish - I think it will do just fine.
3.4 wouldn't be possible, if the values only go from 1-3. 2.3 would represent that the fish, on average, has a swimming pattern that is close to "hovering", with a bit more activity to it. With that information, I would use the second formula as a bare minimum, and preferably would use the third formula.
Definitely not the "correct" way to do it, but for a simple task it should work fine.

Thanks for the input!
Drew
 

tony'stank

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Another consideration is how and when the fish are introduced into the tank. I have a RSR 450 (94 Gal). I have a Blue Hippo Tang and a Yellow tang along with 7other smaller fish. The two tangs in this size tank would be considered problematic according to some sources. However the two tangs were introduced to the tank as small juveniles at the same time. It also helps that my aquscaping is minimalistic with lots of open swimming room but still has hiding places. The fish have been together for 5. Years with no signs of aggression, stressor diseases

The
 

Zionas

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LiveAquaria has one big flaw: They only take volume into account and not swimming space in terms of length and width. Some of their estimates are also a bit off, such as the One Spot requiring only a 70 while the Foxface Lo needs a 125?

I wouldn’t put a Yellow Tang in a 120 tall or corner tank, but a 5 or 6-foot 120 would not have any problems.
 

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