Can snails bring in ich?

BostonReefer300

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Unfortunately, we can't help you with your girlfriend issues. ;) That being said, my wife is basically in charge of everything inside our house with the glaring exception of my fish tanks. She has zero say there!
 

R33fDaddy

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I’m really frustrated right now, my girlfriend has no clue how much time I spend caring for my tank and yet she argues about it. Always bringing on a new fish, invert, snails. I’ve done this fallow tank thing too many times now. Any other options?
You gotta get a strong Quarantine Process and stick to it.

Also going Fallow doesn't really work.

If you can remove your corals I recommend dosing your main tank with Copper to permanently get rid of Ich. After that stick to your Quarantine process and never put anything directly into your display Tank again.

Also it's a waste of time taking the Wrasse out unless you take all the fish out. I would just leave him and treat everyone inside the display tank.
 

Brady4000

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If you can remove your corals I recommend dosing your main tank with Copper to permanently get rid of Ich. After that stick to your Quarantine process and never put anything directly into your display Tank again.
You want him to put copper in the DT??? That won’t just come out of the rocks sand and equipment when it’s time to put the coral back in… this is an awful idea… his tank won’t be able to house coral anymore…

Also, copper doesn’t just kill coral. Like everything but fish in that tank is going to die…
 

R33fDaddy

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You want him to put copper in the DT??? That won’t just come out of the rocks sand and equipment when it’s time to put the coral back in… this is an awful idea… his tank won’t be able to house coral anymore…
It's actually not a bad idea. I have done it and plenty of other people have done it. This is not the 80's, it's all kind of things that removes copper from aquariums; not to mention its literally copper in the ocean. Having ich hatching a feasting on your fish until they eventually die is way worse.

I also have plenty of Coral in my Display Tank and Coral Quarantine Tank, both have been dosed with Copper.
 

Brady4000

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This is not the 80's,
That’s good because I was born in 86. I wouldn’t know..

not to mention its literally copper in the ocean.
There is also ich in the ocean, in fact this is the whole reason people who are pro QT, QT. “The ocean is big, ich in a small box is too much.” Shoot there is oil in the ocean.


Having ich hatching a feasting on your fish until they eventually die is way worse.
I would say copper in my DT tank is 100% worst.

 

R33fDaddy

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That’s good because I was born in 86. I wouldn’t know..


There is also ich in the ocean, in fact this is the whole reason people who are pro QT, QT. “The ocean is big, ich in a small box is too much.” Shoot there is oil in the ocean.



I would say copper in my DT tank is 100% worst.

Good for you.


Just remember, somebody was always the first to do something successful before it was widely accepted by the masses.
 

Brady4000

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I also have plenty of Coral in my Display Tank and Coral Quarantine Tank, both have been dosed with Copper.
I don’t agree obviously with putting copper in the DT and treating it for ich. But I am curious.

What copper did you use and how much?
What did you use to get it out?
How big is you tank and how much rock work?
How did you do to deal with all the inverts dying?
How soon, did you put your tank back together?
I take it you QTed your coral and snails etc. for encrusted?
Did you just remove all your rock work, how did you get ALL coral out?

Just remember, somebody was always the first to do something successful before it was widely accepted by the masses.
Will do, in fact, a lot of people who don’t QT kinda say the same thing.
 

Reeferbadness

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Get the wrasse out. Freshwater dip and get him in quarantine. Start copper treatment. As for your main tank there is one treatment that claims it can cure ick and is reef safe (forgot name but google it).
metroplex works pretty well - and is reef safe. You add it to your fish food. It's an anti-biotic. Best to combine with UV sterlizer. It won't totally cure your tank but your fish will build up an immunity and the ich levels should come down very low. I do this with each new fish addition since I know that there is ich in the tank - going fallow for 76 days is, in my opinion, nuts. Ich can be dealt with ... and once your fish have built up some immunity they it should not be a worry.
 
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jaganshi066

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Sometimes you just have to put your foot down and deal with it. Especially if it's killing fish and costing money. Imo please don't take this the wrong way just saying. I hope all goes well.
Her solution is never take responsibility and if it’s not her way then we break up so that’s what it’s going to be
 
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jaganshi066

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metroplex works pretty well - and is reef safe. You add it to your fish food. It's an anti-biotic. Best to combine with UV sterlizer. It won't totally cure your tank but your fish will build up an immunity and the ich levels should come down very low. I do this with each new fish addition since I know that there is ich in the tank - going fallow for 76 days is, in my opinion, nuts. Ich can be dealt with ... and once your fish have built up some immunity they it should not be a worry.
I’ll try it
 

R33fDaddy

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I don’t agree obviously with putting copper in the DT and treating it for ich. But I am curious.

What copper did you use and how much?
What did you use to get it out?
How big is you tank and how much rock work?
How did you do to deal with all the inverts dying?
How soon, did you put your tank back together?
I take it you QTed your coral and snails etc. for encrusted?
Did you just remove all your rock work, how did you get ALL coral out?


Will do, in fact, a lot of people who don’t QT kinda say the same thing.
I have a 90 Day Quarantine process, meaning nothing goes in my Display for 90 days after I get it. Nothing at all.

I have a lot of rock maybe 60 - 80 pounds I'm guessing (maybe more).

I'm running Seachem Cuprisorb and Chemi Blue for copper removal.

I have a separate Quarantine for inverts, it's also where a breed pods.

I did not remove any rock, sand or anything like that. If I did have any encrusting corals I would have just left them because for me the health of my fish family is more important. I don't believe in Ich management at all and I think it's somewhat cruel.


This is my process for totally and permanently getting rid of Ich.

1. You're going to need two more tanks in addition to your display Tank. I know, sounds like a lot to deal with but hear me out. Fish and Coral costs hundreds of dollars tossing 30 bucks into a couple Petco tanks is a small investment. Petco has deals which you can get aquarium for less than a dollar a gallon. Then you need a cheap sponge filter and a hang on back filter.

2. Take all Coral and inverts out of your display Tank and put them in Quarantine. For Coral Quarantine a 20 Gallon Petco tank should big enough. If you can get a small frag of gsp that would be great.

3. The second tank you bought will be your hospital tank. This is where you will treat any New Fish for Ich, Velvet, Flukes, Worms, injuries or anything. This tank is truly a Hospital or ER for your fish friends.

4. This is going to be the hard part but it's the most important. You have to dose your display Tank with Copper. Ich is in your tank and no matter what you do it will always be in there unless you dose that tank with copper. Leave your fish in that tank and get some Seachem Cupramine Copper. Follow the instructions on the label precisely. You'll also need a Copper checker and I highly recommend the one made by Hanna. You also need to wipe down your sump and clean off any salt creep. Clean any area on or around your tank where water pools in anyway. You don't want to give the ich parasite anywhere to wait out this process.

5. Once Copper treatment is over do a 50 percent water change. Get some Seachem Cuprisorb and put it in a high flow area in sump or just a high flow area. Keep testing your water until your copper level is barley detectable (I added Xenia and GSP when copper level was 0.03). Leave the Cuprisorb in your sump.

6. Now you're ready to start your new Quarantine process. Step 5 should last any where from 2 weeks to a month. So your Coral Quarantine has been sitting a little while with no fish. Now you want to go out a get a new fish. Trust me, you need this new fish friend. Get a Square Tail Tang (tiny one) they are cheap and phenomenal at eating algea. You need to put this fish through Quarantine; so it'll go into your Hospital Tank for Copper Treatment. After Copper treatment, treat the fish with prazipro. This fish should spend 30 days in your hospital tank.

7. After your new tang friend has done 30 Days in the Hospital Tank you can move him to your Quarantine Tank with all your Coral and inverts.

8. Monitor your new tang friend in your Quarantine tank for 60 days. If you don't see any white spots and the fish is eating and in good health then congrats you're now ich free. If not put your new friend back in the hospital tank for treatment and steps 6 and 7.

9. If you want you can put the Square Tail tang in your display but personally I would leave him in the Quarantine Tank until he gets too big for it.

10. You can now start adding coral back into your display Tank. I'd do one frag at a time, just to make sure all elements (alk, mag and calcium) present in the water. GSP would be a great coral to put back in your tank first.

I also would throw away any cheap items that could have ich like Nets. Any equipment you can't replace should be soaking in a bucket with copper and bleach throughout this process. However I would just get all new stuff.

Remember, from this point on NOTHING EVER goes directly into Display Tank. Nothing. Not even Copepods, not Chaeto Algae, nothing! This is very important. Assume everything you buy has ich on it or in it.
 
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R33fDaddy

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metroplex works pretty well - and is reef safe. You add it to your fish food. It's an anti-biotic. Best to combine with UV sterlizer. It won't totally cure your tank but your fish will build up an immunity and the ich levels should come down very low. I do this with each new fish addition since I know that there is ich in the tank - going fallow for 76 days is, in my opinion, nuts. Ich can be dealt with ... and once your fish have built up some immunity they it should not be a worry.
Fish cannot build up an immunity to Ich.
 
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jaganshi066

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I have a 90 Quarantine process, meaning nothing goes in my Display for 90 days after I get it. Nothing at all.

I have a lot of rock maybe 60 - 80 pounds I'm guessing (maybe more).

I'm running Seachem Cuprisorb and Chemi Blue for copper removal.

I have a separate Quarantine for inverts, it's also where a breed pods.

I did not remove any rock, sand or anything like that. If I did have any encrusting corals I would have just left them because for me the health of my fish family is more important. I don't believe in Ich management at all and I think it's somewhat cruel.


This is my process for totally and permanently getting rid of Ich.

1. You're going to need two more tanks in addition to your display Tank. I know, sounds like a lot to deal with but hear me out. Fish and Coral costs hundreds of dollars tossing 30 bucks into a couple Petco tanks is a small investment. Petco has deals which you can get aquarium for less than a dollar a gallon. Then you need a cheap sponge filter and a hang on back filter.

2. Take all Coral and inverts out of your display Tank and put them in Quarantine. For Coral Quarantine a 20 Gallon Petco tank should big enough. If you can get a small frag of gsp that would be great.

3. The second tank you bought will be your hospital tank. This is where you will treat any New Fish for Ich, Velvet, Flukes, Worms, injuries or anything. This tank is truly a Hospital or ER for your fish friends.

4. This is going to be the hard part but it's the most important. You have to dose your display Tank with Copper. Ich is in your tank and no matter what you do it will always be in there unless you dose that tank with copper. Leave your fish in that tank and get some Seachem Cupramine Copper. Follow the instructions on the label precisely. You'll also need a Copper checker and I highly recommend the one made by Hanna. You also need to wipe down your sump and clean off any salt creep. Clean any area on or around your tank where water pools in anyway. You don't want to give the ich parasite anywhere to wait out this process.

5. Once Copper treatment is over do a 50 percent water change. Get some Seachem Cuprisorb and put it in a high flow area in sump or just a high flow area. Keep testing your water until your copper level is barley detectable (I added Xenia and GSP when copper level was 0.03). Leave the Cuprisorb in your sump.

6. Now you're ready to start your new Quarantine process. Step 5 should last any where from 2 weeks to a month. So your Coral Quarantine has been sitting a little while with no fish. Now you want to go out a get a new fish. Trust me, you need this new fish friend. Get a Square Tail Tang (tiny one) they are cheap and phenomenal at eating algea. You need to put this fish through Quarantine; so it'll go into your Hospital Tank for Copper Treatment. After Copper treatment, treat the fish with prazipro. This fish should spend 30 days in your hospital tank.

7. After your new tang friend has done 30 Days in the Hospital Tank you can move him to your Quarantine Tank with all your Coral and inverts.

8. Monitor your new tang friend in your Quarantine tank for 60 days. If you don't see any white spots and the fish is eating and in good health then congrats you're now ich free. If not put your new friend back in the hospital tank for treatment and steps 6 and 7.

9. If you want you can put the Square Tail tang in your display but personally I would live him in the Quarantine Tank until he gets to big for it.

10. You can now start adding coral back into your display Tank. I'd do one frag at a time, just to make sure all elements (alk, mag and calcium) present in the water. GSP would be a great coral to put back in your tank first.

I also would throw away any cheap items that could have ich like Nets. Any equipment you can't replace should be soaking in a bucket with copper and bleach throughout this process. However I would just get all new stuff.

Remember, from this point on NOTHING EVER goes directly into Display Tank. Nothing. Not even Copepods, not Chaeto Algae, nothing! This is very important. Assume everything you buy has ich on it or in it.
Can you explain this to my girlfriend
 

Brady4000

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I have a 90 Quarantine process, meaning nothing goes in my Display for 90 days after I get it. Nothing at all.

I have a lot of rock maybe 60 - 80 pounds I'm guessing (maybe more).

I'm running Seachem Cuprisorb and Chemi Blue for copper removal.

I have a separate Quarantine for inverts, it's also where a breed pods.

I did not remove any rock, sand or anything like that. If I did have any encrusting corals I would have just left them because for me the health of my fish family is more important. I don't believe in Ich management at all and I think it's somewhat cruel.


This is my process for totally and permanently getting rid of Ich.

1. You're going to need two more tanks in addition to your display Tank. I know, sounds like a lot to deal with but hear me out. Fish and Coral costs hundreds of dollars tossing 30 bucks into a couple Petco tanks is a small investment. Petco has deals which you can get aquarium for less than a dollar a gallon. Then you need a cheap sponge filter and a hang on back filter.

2. Take all Coral and inverts out of your display Tank and put them in Quarantine. For Coral Quarantine a 20 Gallon Petco tank should big enough. If you can get a small frag of gsp that would be great.

3. The second tank you bought will be your hospital tank. This is where you will treat any New Fish for Ich, Velvet, Flukes, Worms, injuries or anything. This tank is truly a Hospital or ER for your fish friends.

4. This is going to be the hard part but it's the most important. You have to dose your display Tank with Copper. Ich is in your tank and no matter what you do it will always be in there unless you dose that tank with copper. Leave your fish in that tank and get some Seachem Cupramine Copper. Follow the instructions on the label precisely. You'll also need a Copper checker and I highly recommend the one made by Hanna. You also need to wipe down your sump and clean off any salt creep. Clean any area on or around your tank where water pools in anyway. You don't want to give the ich parasite anywhere to wait out this process.

5. Once Copper treatment is over do a 50 percent water change. Get some Seachem Cuprisorb and put it in a high flow area in sump or just a high flow area. Keep testing your water until your copper level is barley detectable (I added Xenia and GSP when copper level was 0.03). Leave the Cuprisorb in your sump.

6. Now you're ready to start your new Quarantine process. Step 5 should last any where from 2 weeks to a month. So your Coral Quarantine has been sitting a little while with no fish. Now you want to go out a get a new fish. Trust me, you need this new fish friend. Get a Square Tail Tang (tiny one) they are cheap and phenomenal at eating algea. You need to put this fish through Quarantine; so it'll go into your Hospital Tank for Copper Treatment. After Copper treatment, treat the fish with prazipro. This fish should spend 30 days in your hospital tank.

7. After your new tang friend has done 30 Days in the Hospital Tank you can move him to your Quarantine Tank with all your Coral and inverts.

8. Monitor your new tang friend in your Quarantine tank for 60 days. If you don't see any white spots and the fish is eating and in good health then congrats you're now ich free. If not put your new friend back in the hospital tank for treatment and steps 6 and 7.

9. If you want you can put the Square Tail tang in your display but personally I would live him in the Quarantine Tank until he gets to big for it.

10. You can now start adding coral back into your display Tank. I'd do one frag at a time, just to make sure all elements (alk, mag and calcium) present in the water. GSP would be a great coral to put back in your tank first.

I also would throw away any cheap items that could have ich like Nets. Any equipment you can't replace should be soaking in a bucket with copper and bleach throughout this process. However I would just get all new stuff.

Remember, from this point on NOTHING EVER goes directly into Display Tank. Nothing. Not even Copepods, not Chaeto Algae, nothing! This is very important. Assume everything you buy has ich on it or in it.
You don’t have to agree with something to admire the hard work and thoughtfulness that went into it.

Thanks for sharing! and answering my questions.
 

innovusaquaculture

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So...

I was ABSOLUTELY positive my main system, consisting of 3 tanks had EVERYTHING. I didn't QT anything that went in it when I started. I didn't know any better. I stopped putting things in it and started paying attention to it like I should. I started auto water changes, I started testing like I should and I invested in the equipment I should have, instead of fish and coral.

I also started a new 112 gallon tank that I was "going to do right from the start" I was going to QT everything. Fish for 45 days, coral and inverts for 76 days.

Then I sent every tank I had out to DNA testing. Results came back last night and I was very surprised. My main system has nothing to worry about.

Here is the lesson I learned: Before you panic first remember that few things happen fast in reefing and second you might want to spend $99 at AquaBiomics and find out what you've really got in your tank! Most of us spend way more than that every month on new fish and coral.
 

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