Can someone help ID this algae and how to solve please!

[daniel_mourra]

My 160 Gal tank is exactly 1 year old....

Parameters:
Temp: 78 F (Target 78F)
Salinity: 1.025 (Target 1.025)
Ph: 8.06 (Target 8.1-8.3)
Kh: 10.0 (Target 10.0)
Ca: 430 (Target 420)
Mg: 1380 (Target 1380)
Nitrates: 12.2 (Target >20)
Phosphate 0.10 (Target 0.07)

All of a sudden (2-3 weeks ago i have started to see a lot of this type of ALGAE.... is this hair algae? turf algae or what is this? I have a refugium with chaetomorpha and caulerpa plorifera so I would like to stay away from Fluconazole.... but will not hessitate to use it if its necesary.

I keep my nutriets down by 35% water changes every 4-6 weeks... High Capacity GFO reactor and a skimmer. Run a 12 hr photoperiod with a 6 hour "max" intensity period of 80% on 3 XR15s.. the other 6 hours run at a very low intensity, never had an issue... until 2-3 weeks ago...

Any ideas? Thanks in advance!

 

[Subsea]

Looks like green hair algae to me.

Green Hair Algae​

Green Hair Algae or "GHA" is really a broad term that covers hundreds of species of green simple filamentous algae. These species tend to be simple, fine in texture, and have few distinguishable features. True species level identification requires a microscope.

Distinguishing it from look-a-likes: GHA is not coarse or wiry, it should break apart easily when pulled, and should lose form quickly when removed from water. If you can make out a root structure, or a stiff branching structure it is probably not GHA.

Manual Removal: Green hair algae can be pulled out easily, and tooth brushed or scrubbed off the rock work. This is easier to do if the rock is outside of the tank. If it is growing from the sand sift it out with a net.

Clean Up Crew: Assorted Hermits, Blue Legs, Florida Ceriths, Chitons, Turbograzers, Sea Hares, Conchs, Emerald Crabs, Urchins and a few others. It is readily accepted by many herbivores, but because it grows quickly it may persist even in a tank with a fair amount of cleaners.

It could be green turf agae. Tell us more about what you have.

Green Turf Algae​

What is known as "Green Turf Algae" in the hobby is really a generic name given to hundreds of different species of macroalgae that describe certain similar characteristics. They are coarse, wiry, and generally have thicker wider blades than Green Hair Algae. They may or may not have a mat like root structure, sometimes they just seem to sprout from the rock.

Turf algae that sprouts directly from the rock can be a pain to control, as it is difficult if not impossible to pluck it all. Once discovered it should be treated outside of the aquarium, perhaps by dipping the affected rock or frag in water treated with an algaecide.Turf algae that grows with a "root" mat can be peeled by pushing down on the algae as you scrape your thumb against the rock dislodging it in one swoop. Let it get big enough so you have leverage. The 3reef member who removed this piece did it perfectly.

Clean up Crew members that will eat Green Turf Algae include inverts with considerable cutting power like urchins, chitons, and emerald crabs.

 

[Subsea]

@daniel_mourra

I read a few of your earlier thread titles to better understand your system and experience level. Consider starting a tank journal thread where all pertinent information for your system is in one place.

I salute your dedication to continue. I have been addicted to Reefing for 53 years and I am an
“old school” reefer.

Have you tried pulling it out by hand as if you were weeding a garden?

What does Foxface and Tang eat?

What else is in your clean up crew: Urchins, Chitins, Emerald Crabs?

PS:
If you have GHA, then consider using a uv sterilizer to prevent spread of spores.

 

[blecki]

It's your hermit crab's lawn. He's doing such a good job cultivating it too.

 

[Labridaedicted]

As stated above, looks like standard fare GHA. Gonna need phosphate removal via some method to reduce growth rate and some good cleanup crew. Also, pull out the long stuff by hand. Very little (except rabbitfish and seahares, IME) actually eat it once it gets long.

 

[daniel_mourra]

Looks like green hair algae to me.

Green Hair Algae​

Green Hair Algae or "GHA" is really a broad term that covers hundreds of species of green simple filamentous algae. These species tend to be simple, fine in texture, and have few distinguishable features. True species level identification requires a microscope.

Distinguishing it from look-a-likes: GHA is not coarse or wiry, it should break apart easily when pulled, and should lose form quickly when removed from water. If you can make out a root structure, or a stiff branching structure it is probably not GHA.

Manual Removal: Green hair algae can be pulled out easily, and tooth brushed or scrubbed off the rock work. This is easier to do if the rock is outside of the tank. If it is growing from the sand sift it out with a net.

Clean Up Crew: Assorted Hermits, Blue Legs, Florida Ceriths, Chitons, Turbograzers, Sea Hares, Conchs, Emerald Crabs, Urchins and a few others. It is readily accepted by many herbivores, but because it grows quickly it may persist even in a tank with a fair amount of cleaners.

It could be green turf agae. Tell us more about what you have.

Green Turf Algae​

What is known as "Green Turf Algae" in the hobby is really a generic name given to hundreds of different species of macroalgae that describe certain similar characteristics. They are coarse, wiry, and generally have thicker wider blades than Green Hair Algae. They may or may not have a mat like root structure, sometimes they just seem to sprout from the rock.

Turf algae that sprouts directly from the rock can be a pain to control, as it is difficult if not impossible to pluck it all. Once discovered it should be treated outside of the aquarium, perhaps by dipping the affected rock or frag in water treated with an algaecide.Turf algae that grows with a "root" mat can be peeled by pushing down on the algae as you scrape your thumb against the rock dislodging it in one swoop. Let it get big enough so you have leverage. The 3reef member who removed this piece did it perfectly.

Clean up Crew members that will eat Green Turf Algae include inverts with considerable cutting power like urchins, chitons, and emerald crabs.

Thank you!!!

 

[exnisstech]

Gonna need phosphate removal via some method to reduce growth rate

Not necessarily. I run 3 tanks and the one with the least amount of nuisance algae runs with PO4 at 0.4 - 0.6 IMO 0.1 is not excessive. I would opt for manual removal and CUC.

EDIT : I've also come to accept the fact that some algae is normal and not something to freak out over like so many people do. Often more harm than good is done trying remove it. JMO but I don't try to run a sterile looking tank like many strive for these days.

 

[Dburr1014]

As stated above, looks like standard fare GHA. Gonna need phosphate removal via some method to reduce growth rate and some good cleanup crew. Also, pull out the long stuff by hand. Very little (except rabbitfish and seahares, IME) actually eat it once it gets long.

I would not lower phosphate to stop growth. Rather, introduce herbivores in fish or cuc and manual removal.
A quote from sixties-reefer who said it much better than I could:



"This will help control the Dinos, but won't this create an environment for the GHA to blow up since they feed off of phosphates?
You will never be able to stop GHA from growing or any other algae by limiting nutrients, the maximum you could do is stall the growth by limiting one of the nutrients, limiting one of the nutrients will allow for other nutrients that cause Cyanobacteria and dinoflagellates to become more available it will also cause your heterotrophic bacteria to go dormant as they need all three nutrients available at all times and will also cause coral to starve. As you may realise the benefits from stalling the nuisance algae from growing will bring more detrimental effects than good ones.
If you want to stall the algae with nutrients try keep your tank with a stable no3 and po4 this will aid the the pelagic bacteria to keep reducing organic and inorganic nutrients that algaes need to thrive, you could also introduce a fast growing algae like chaeto or caleurpa in a Refugium to compete with the display nuisance algae for nutrients.
the best route is always to add herbivores to keep it under control."

 

[Labridaedicted]

I would not lower phosphate to stop growth. Rather, introduce herbivores in fish or cuc and manual removal.
A quote from sixties-reefer who said it much better than I could:



"This will help control the Dinos, but won't this create an environment for the GHA to blow up since they feed off of phosphates?
You will never be able to stop GHA from growing or any other algae by limiting nutrients, the maximum you could do is stall the growth by limiting one of the nutrients, limiting one of the nutrients will allow for other nutrients that cause Cyanobacteria and dinoflagellates to become more available it will also cause your heterotrophic bacteria to go dormant as they need all three nutrients available at all times and will also cause coral to starve. As you may realise the benefits from stalling the nuisance algae from growing will bring more detrimental effects than good ones.
If you want to stall the algae with nutrients try keep your tank with a stable no3 and po4 this will aid the the pelagic bacteria to keep reducing organic and inorganic nutrients that algaes need to thrive, you could also introduce a fast growing algae like chaeto or caleurpa in a Refugium to compete with the display nuisance algae for nutrients.
the best route is always to add herbivores to keep it under control."

Right, it won't stop it, but will slow it. This allows herbivores to catch up. That's why we all run types of nutrient removal, be it refugium, ATS, or GFO.

Not a requirement, but I find GHA tends to thrive in systems with excess phosphates.

 

[Dburr1014]

Right, it won't stop it, but will slow it. This allows herbivores to catch up. That's why we all run types of nutrient removal, be it refugium, ATS, or GFO.

Not a requirement, but I find GHA tends to thrive in systems with excess phosphates.

Agree to disagree.
They are really good at feeding themselves.
I would rather feed everything than lower nutrients to starve the coral. IMO.

 

[Lavey29]

Right, it won't stop it, but will slow it. This allows herbivores to catch up. That's why we all run types of nutrient removal, be it refugium, ATS, or GFO.

Not a requirement, but I find GHA tends to thrive in systems with excess phosphates.

It takes more then slightly elevated phosphate to make GHA thrive.

 

[Labridaedicted]

It takes more then slightly elevated phosphate to make GHA thrive.

Yes, but in most systems that is the likely limiting nutrients (iron is another). There's a hundred other things that influence it as well from light cycle, iron levels, lack of herbivores, and nutrients.

Phosphorous often binds in the tissue of algae as well so it doesn't actually measure as elevated in these situations sometimes, but the evidence is there in the presence of the algae. Just sharing my experience is all. I also run a low nutrient system where my phosphates are around 60ppb. I find as I approach that .1ppm level gha starts thriving in the Frag tank where there are no Tangs or rabbits. The corals will not starve of nutrients at this level.

Again, just sharing my experience. Been at this a long while and have a couple semesters of phycology courses under my belt. If you have success other ways, that's awesome, but this way works for my systems and that's why I shared. I've found it to help dramatically in my current system as well as previous ones and help was asked for.

@daniel_mourra have you changed your feeding routine at all? New food or heavier feeding?

 

[Lavey29]

Yes, but in most systems that is the likely limiting nutrients (iron is another). There's a hundred other things that influence it as well from light cycle, iron levels, lack of herbivores, and nutrients.

Phosphorous often binds in the tissue of algae as well so it doesn't actually measure as elevated in these situations sometimes, but the evidence is there in the presence of the algae. Just sharing my experience is all. I also run a low nutrient system where my phosphates are around 60ppb. I find as I approach that .1ppm level gha starts thriving in the Frag tank where there are no Tangs or rabbits. The corals will not starve of nutrients at this level.

Again, just sharing my experience. Been at this a long while and have a couple semesters of phycology courses under my belt. If you have success other ways, that's awesome, but this way works for my systems and that's why I shared. I've found it to help dramatically in my current system as well as previous ones and help was asked for.

@daniel_mourra have you changed your feeding routine at all? New food or heavier feeding?

Thanks for sharing your experience and preferences.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Im seeing matted wire or hair algae, This one will likely require scrubbing.
I would place it in a container of tank water and pull off as much as you can by hand and scrub the rest with a firm toothbrush and some 3% hydrogen peroxide.
Return to tank, reduce white light intensity and number of hours of white lighting and add some snails such as :
Astrea
cerith
turbo grazer
trochus

A Pencil urchin

8-10 Caribbean blue leg hermits

Are you using RODI water or tap water from the faucet ?
Is tank at or near a window?

Agree, dont lower or chase po4 level unless highly elevated