Can you recommend some inverts that will clean "moveable? corals?

[Joe31415]

Here's the story. I have a coral/invert QT set up. The coral plugs are just sitting in some egg crate which is on some PVC legs. Nothing is glued to anything. That is, the egg crate is secured to the legs, but the rack itself is light enough that even a strong power head can blow it around.
I currently have a few hermit crabs and a snail in the tank. But I'm looking for something that can swim (as opposed to climb) to the corals and keep them clean since they're developing some algae, which I think, may be part of their issues.
My thoughts are some kind of a shrimp, but there's so many out there that I'm having trouble figuring out which shrimp will actively keep the frags clean of algae and other potential bugs but at the same time not actually pick at the corals themselves. Something "reef safe, as long as it's fed well' isn't an issue. Of all the tank issues I've had over the years, underfeeding isn't one of them.

I'm in the middle of, what I think is, a diatom bloom, so I plan to run to the LFS today to pick up a couple more trochus snails (and maybe another one or two crabs) anyway. I'm thinking of grabbing a shrimp or two as well. But I'm looking for ideas.
Couple things to consider.
-It's a bare bottom tank. There's rocks to climb on, but no sand, just glass*
-I'm trying as much as possible to keep this tank strictly coral/invert only. Just to reduce the possibility of introducing fish diseases into the DT by way of the reef QT.
-Again, nothing really held down. So I'm looking for either things that won't terrorize the tank (as much as I really want a Tuxedo Urchin) or, I suppose, some ideas on how to keep things from getting pushed around while still being able to move the frags around as necessary....I bet I could superglue the pvc to the glass bottom...that might keep it from getting pushed around.



*That's another thing, I've been meaning to get another big rock or two and break it up into pieces to scatter on the bottom. Still not sand, but at least the crabs won't get blown around on the glass.


So you can see the general layout of the tank, there's a quick picture of how it's set up. This is during a diatom(?) bloom, hence it being a big foggy.

 

[Fish Think Pink]

Here's the story. I have a coral/invert QT set up. The coral plugs are just sitting in some egg crate which is on some PVC legs. Nothing is glued to anything. That is, the egg crate is secured to the legs, but the rack itself is light enough that even a strong power head can blow it around.
I currently have a few hermit crabs and a snail in the tank. But I'm looking for something that can swim (as opposed to climb) to the corals and keep them clean since they're developing some algae, which I think, may be part of their issues.
My thoughts are some kind of a shrimp, but there's so many out there that I'm having trouble figuring out which shrimp will actively keep the frags clean of algae and other potential bugs but at the same time not actually pick at the corals themselves. Something "reef safe, as long as it's fed well' isn't an issue. Of all the tank issues I've had over the years, underfeeding isn't one of them.

I'm in the middle of, what I think is, a diatom bloom, so I plan to run to the LFS today to pick up a couple more trochus snails (and maybe another one or two crabs) anyway. I'm thinking of grabbing a shrimp or two as well. But I'm looking for ideas.
Couple things to consider.
-It's a bare bottom tank. There's rocks to climb on, but no sand, just glass*
-I'm trying as much as possible to keep this tank strictly coral/invert only. Just to reduce the possibility of introducing fish diseases into the DT by way of the reef QT.
-Again, nothing really held down. So I'm looking for either things that won't terrorize the tank (as much as I really want a Tuxedo Urchin) or, I suppose, some ideas on how to keep things from getting pushed around while still being able to move the frags around as necessary....I bet I could superglue the pvc to the glass bottom...that might keep it from getting pushed around.



*That's another thing, I've been meaning to get another big rock or two and break it up into pieces to scatter on the bottom. Still not sand, but at least the crabs won't get blown around on the glass.


So you can see the general layout of the tank, there's a quick picture of how it's set up. This is during a diatom(?) bloom, hence it being a big foggy.

you wrote: "may be part of their issues" meaning there is something wrong with corals? Likely algae isn't culprit esp given photo... Check your parameters then check them again. Something isn't right to have the bloom, so work to get water quality improvements. Get 2nd opinion either different test kit, LFS (if they do that), or send out mailorder for eval. Evaluate your flow. Evaluate your lighting.

I keep coming back to "QT" so while there are a LOT of other possibilities (though not what you ask), suggest:
- siphon hose (~airline tubing size) during water changes aka YOU clean them
- dose live phyto (AlgaeBarn Ocean Magic is one of many products out there)

QT tanks tend to have water changes every 2-3 days, can get reclassified as HT (hospital tank) when something comes up needing medications/treatments. As involved as your "QT" described and what you want your CUC to do, also suggest you tighten your dip introductory process as potential bugs need to be caught BEFORE going in. BRS has 2019 dip review with 3 types: 1) iodine based, 2) natural based & 3) hydrogen peroxide based but doesn't cover 4) Bayer (insecticide) which would be the only treatment that KILLS pests (#1 & #2 do NOT - its why shaking so key) ... and recommend do all FOUR dips before adding to tank. Will save you down the road from being another sad future post "how do i treat <fill in the blank...>

If instead of "QT" you decide to reclassify as either "frag tank" or "grow out tank" (though deep for this as sole function) then also suggest:
- refugium with macroalgae (AlgaeBarn is also good source for clean, but there are other suppliers out there)
- Vibrant

Others will have opinions on this too, so also defer to them as above is just my opinion and what I'd do. It seems like nice enough tank I'd make it another display tank... if it were my tank <wink> ... and then I'd get a smaller &/or shallower tank for QT &/or frag tank... but again, just my opinions

 

[Joe31415]

you wrote: "may be part of their issues" meaning there is something wrong with corals?

Sorry, I forgot to explain that (had another thread about it). My frogspawn, frammer and zoas have been closed up for weeks now. From time to time the frogspawn or zoa will open up just a bit, but that's it. They're all clearly still alive and the frogspawn will usually take target fed food, but other than that, they're usually closed. I have a pocillopora, that appears to be just fine and I have two cyphastrea, that, honestly, I'm not sure how to tell if they're doing okay or not, though one does have more algae on it than I'd like to see. In any case, the algae on the cyphastrea and the algae on the zoas is what I was referring to.

Check your parameters then check them again

I check them on a very regular basis, but I forgot to post them here, based on the time stamp, I was at work when I made the post so didn't have easy access to them. Since my last test (on the 27th), I did run a UV light for about a day, and added some pods. The water has cleared up significantly, but the algae is still covering everything. In any case, I'll plan to test everything later today, but as of that previous test, my numbers were:
pH 8.07
Nitrate 1
Salinity 1.025
Alk 9.2
Calc 449
Phos .01
Mag 1420

I keep coming back to "QT" so while there are a LOT of other possibilities (though not what you ask), suggest:
- siphon hose (~airline tubing size) during water changes aka YOU clean them
- dose live phyto (AlgaeBarn Ocean Magic is one of many products out there)

I do actually dose OceanMagic, but I was doing it for the pods.

QT tanks tend to have water changes every 2-3 days,

It's my, very possibly incorrect, understanding that corals need the water to be a bit 'dirty'. So while I do water changes, they're not that often. Less than once a week and usually less than 25%. I'm trying to keep the nitrates (and phosphates) off of zero.

As involved as your "QT" described and what you want your CUC to do, also suggest you tighten your dip introductory process as potential bugs need to be caught BEFORE going in. BRS has 2019 dip review with 3 types: 1) iodine based, 2) natural based & 3) hydrogen peroxide based but doesn't cover 4) Bayer (insecticide) which would be the only treatment that KILLS pests (#1 & #2 do NOT - its why shaking so key) ... and recommend do all FOUR dips before adding to tank.

I haven't yet used Bayer, but I do run everything through CoralRX before they go into the water, and I've redipped some in Revive and/or iodine to try and help them along...then I get told I'm stressing them out more than necessary.

If instead of "QT" you decide to reclassify as either "frag tank" or "grow out tank" (though deep for this as sole function) then also suggest:

This tank is intended to be just for a quarantine tank though. My intention is that all corals (and likely all or most inverts) will eventually make their way into the display tank, while this one will always be cycled and ready for the next batch of whatever I bring in.

 

[Joe31415]

As promised, current parameters are:
pH 7.93
Nitrate 0-1 (double checked with API)
Salinity 1.025
Alk 9.7
Calc 436 (double checked with salifert)
Phos .02
Mag 1440

I also checked with the salifert iodine test and got 0 for iodine/iodide/iodate, but, then I've never had it register anything.

I'm not sure what's going on with the corals yet, but the algae, I assume, is just part of the 'uglies'. However, the zoas appear to be doing a little bit better after an H2O2 dip (and a rinse in tank water with a few drops of iodine), but IME, they'll likely just go back to being closed up in a few days.