Chemi-Pure Blue vs. Activated Carbon??

FishyFishFish

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Even in that post you have mixed terminology. Chemi-Pure Blue and Chemi-Pure are 2 different products.

My understanding is that Chemi-Pure (now know as Chemi-Pure original) is effectively akin to carbon. Chemi-Pure Blue is akin to carbon and Purigen. Chemi-Pure Elite is akin to carbon and GFO. Chemi-Pure Green is for freshwater tanks (I’m not sure of the exact composition).

So, if your original question was in relation to Chemi-Pure Blue vs Carbon, then the difference is the phosphate adsorption resin.

I believe that the different rates at which the carbon and phosphate adsorption resin get used up is why some people prefer to stick to separate carbon and Purigen, rather than going with Chemi-Pure Blue.
 

Glenner’sreef

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Even in that post you have mixed terminology. Chemi-Pure Blue and Chemi-Pure are 2 different products.

My understanding is that Chemi-Pure (now know as Chemi-Pure original) is effectively akin to carbon. Chemi-Pure Blue is akin to carbon and Purigen. Chemi-Pure Elite is akin to carbon and GFO. Chemi-Pure Green is for freshwater tanks (I’m not sure of the exact composition).

So, if your original question was in relation to Chemi-Pure Blue vs Carbon, then the difference is the phosphate adsorption resin.

I believe that the different rates at which the carbon and phosphate adsorption resin get used up is why some people prefer to stick to separate carbon and Purigen, rather than going with Chemi-Pure Blue.
My first post was referring to the carbon in CP blue and regular carbon. I guess my issue is with Boyd saying that cb blue lasts 3/4 months. It’s always been in my mind that the carbon element would some how stay effective for months.
 
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Jedi1199

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Even in that post you have mixed terminology. Chemi-Pure Blue and Chemi-Pure are 2 different products.

My understanding is that Chemi-Pure (now know as Chemi-Pure original) is effectively akin to carbon. Chemi-Pure Blue is akin to carbon and Purigen. Chemi-Pure Elite is akin to carbon and GFO. Chemi-Pure Green is for freshwater tanks (I’m not sure of the exact composition).

So, if your original question was in relation to Chemi-Pure Blue vs Carbon, then the difference is the phosphate adsorption resin.

I believe that the different rates at which the carbon and phosphate adsorption resin get used up is why some people prefer to stick to separate carbon and Purigen, rather than going with Chemi-Pure Blue.

OK.. You are starting to make me want to reply in a retaliatory manner, and that is not what I am here for.

My question was simple. "What is the difference between Chemi-Pure BLUE and activated carbon?"

Simple as that.. Those 2 EXACT products. Nothing else.
 

Johnnyrainbowreefer

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Soooo. Here’s my two cents, I feel carbon and just the chemipure not blue, not elite, are exactly the same thing. I’ve used both in my reef tanks and my water is crystal clear. carbon removes contaminates and chemical pure ie carbon with a name on it are identical in what they do for the tank. I ditched chemipure for carbon. Now if I want to make my own Chemipure blue I use carbon in a mesh bag and mix with Kent marine phosphate sponge media and or phosgaurd. Now if I want Chemipure elite, I mix carbon and purigen together. My method is the same as theirs just a lot cheaper. The proof is in the pudding folks!

1AE56611-F388-4A37-9329-E17908E40397.jpeg
 
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Jedi1199

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Soooo. Here’s my two cents, I feel carbon and just the chemipure not blue, not elite, are exactly the same thing. I’ve used both in my reef tanks and my water is crystal clear. carbon removes contaminates and chemical pure ie carbon with a name on it are identical in what they do for the tank. I ditched chemipure for carbon. Now if I want to make my own Chemipure blue I use carbon in a mesh bag and mix with Kent marine phosphate sponge media and or phosgaurd. Now if I want Chemipure elite, I mix carbon and purigen together. My method is the same as theirs just a lot cheaper. The proof is in the pudding folks!

1AE56611-F388-4A37-9329-E17908E40397.jpeg

Thank you!! This is what I was hoping to get from this thread. A firsthand experience with both products.

Given what you have said, Does the addition of the Purigen or Kent, ADD or REMOVE phosphate? My reefs run at 0 to 0.5 on phosphate using Salifert tests (as of my last testing round on 7-27). Do I want increased phosphate or do I want none?
 
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Jedi1199

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@FishyFishFish ... I see now where your confusion arises. In my attempt to simplify my wording, I omitted the word "blue" in my posts. I took for granted that readers would understand, based on the title of the thread, that my intention was to discuss specifically "Chemi-Pure Blue" and "activated carbon".

Apologies for the misunderstanding.
 

Johnnyrainbowreefer

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Thank you!! This is what I was hoping to get from this thread. A firsthand experience with both products.

Given what you have said, Does the addition of the Purigen or Kent, ADD or REMOVE phosphate? My reefs run at 0 to 0.5 on phosphate using Salifert tests (as of my last testing round on 7-27). Do I want increased phosphate or do I want none?
Yes they do remove phosphates but I personally use it for removal of silicates in the tank. My main phosphate export method is a cheato fuge I run in the back of the tank. I have a large Cvue 50 AIO so I use one teaspoon of the Kent mixed in with cheap ole marineland 30 dollar bucket of carbon. I also have a skimmer and a biopellet reactor. Carbon does not remove phosphate. But I have a lps tank and lps need phosphate so I run at .02 to .04. To answer your question. It really depends on What you want as a coralreef to determine what phosphate level to be at. Fish can handle almost any level but corals cannot especially sps.
 

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So eye candy too I like to show off lol
 

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Yes they do remove phosphates but I personally use it for removal of silicates in the tank. My main phosphate export method is a cheato fuge I run in the back of the tank. I have a large Cvue 50 AIO so I use one teaspoon of the Kent mixed in with cheap ole marineland 30 dollar bucket of carbon. I also have a skimmer and a biopellet reactor. Carbon does not remove phosphate. But I have a lps tank and lps need phosphate so I run at .02 to .04. To answer your question. It really depends on What you want as a coralreef to determine what phosphate level to be at. Fish can handle almost any level but corals cannot especially sps.
You have a beautiful tank.. I absolutely love the (I believe they are Scoly's?) The round orange and blue disks at the bottom levels?

My reef tanks are a 55g glass and a 32g AIO. I run 2 canisters on the 55. One is an older Rena XP3 (350 gph)_ and I just installed a new Fluval FX6 (400 gph) 2 weeks ago. I don't have a refugium due to limitations of HOB only equipment. My parameters are within general tolerances maybe a tick or so to one side or the other on certain things.

Given my phosphates are so low, do you think I should continue with simple activated carbon? I am not personally seeing a need to remove such a minute level of phosphate.
 

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You have a beautiful tank.. I absolutely love the (I believe they are Scoly's?) The round orange and blue disks at the bottom levels?

My reef tanks are a 55g glass and a 32g AIO. I run 2 canisters on the 55. One is an older Rena XP3 (350 gph)_ and I just installed a new Fluval FX6 (400 gph) 2 weeks ago. I don't have a refugium due to limitations of HOB only equipment. My parameters are within general tolerances maybe a tick or so to one side or the other on certain things.

Given my phosphates are so low, do you think I should continue with simple activated carbon? I am not personally seeing a need to remove such a minute level of phosphate.
yeah i think you will be fine. if there is no algae no worries. you know if you have the time you can turn one of those canister filters into a cheato reactor.
 

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Chemi pure is to activated carbon
Like gold torch is to dragon soul

Cost a whole lot more
But in the end the same dam thing 1/4 the price
 
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Jedi1199

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Check out you tube. Theres a submersible light you can rig inside the canister filter and fill it with a little starter chaeto. And bang you got a refugium.

First thing I did when I read your post was start searching youtube.. lol I didn't find anything that was close to what you said. that is why I asked.. Do you have a link or 2 maybe?
 
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There’s also side mounted hang on fuges too. Or you can use a aquaclear hob filter and modify it.

I have an old HOB wet/dry filter.. did a test run with it back when I first started the conversion to SW. First, total capacity when completely filled is only 1.75g. when running as designed it is approximately 1.1g seems a little small for a 55.. plus I couldn't get it to run right even empty.. I think that one is a bust.

Also, because my 55 is older, and I am unsure if it is tempered or not, I feel safest limiting myself to HOB equipment only. With the 2 canisters, the skimmer and the wires for the powerheads, I don't know that I have room for a HOB refugium on this tank (I have looked into those before)
 

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