ChemiClean spoon size ?

Marksreef

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I found my bottle but not the spoon.
Is it the same size a salafert Teset kit spoon or ??? What can I use?
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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any chance I can persuade you not to use it?

reason am asking: its a medication that may or may not kill cyano, but if it does that dead mass compounds in the tank as + waste, in addition to whats there and likely feeding this round of cyano

if you have a large system then dose away/find a spoon and you can deal with the mass when it builds

but if this system is anywhere near 40 gallons or less-thats easy takedown cleaning size and we can put back a totally cleaned tank, and sand, with zero accumulation and zero invader, and this is the best approach because it aligns your tank for future success. using chemiclean right now aligns it for future storage, and cyclic infestation of cyano on the compounding waste. the reason you have to use bubblers and stuff in the main tank when dosing it is because its so harsh on the biology, its just a bad item to use unless the tank is so large that work just can't be done

(but one day will be required, or it will crash depending on # of treatments and compounding rates)

*some invasions are so low level neither deep clean or meds are required, merely some light topical cleaning. post pics
 
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Marksreef

Marksreef

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Thanks for the insight and I agree.
Ive always battled low Nitrate and low Phosphate in this tank (6 years old) and yes, with the only a small amount of algae, so I was a little surprised at the outbreak. Although everyone says no, I'm thinking the use of Vibrant may be the cause or my test kits are off :)
I Vac the shallow sand bed every 2 weeks with water change. Its was constantly getting a brown dusting on it like diatoms. Maybe a brown Cyano. THEN an onslaught of cool rust orange outbreak of Cyano.
The tank is 100 G and Ive been in the hobby 20+ years.
 

brandon429

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I bet the sand can’t pass a drop test - disturb the sand with pumps off, cloud erupts/ feed


rocks too?

pumps off at night, lift up any sample rock into midwater and twist it about

shine a flashlight into the tank

cloud/ feed erupts in most 5+ year systems due to accumulation. * all the rage in the hobby used to be keep it all, and let cyclic invasions come and go

but nowadays, if you want that clean, we can. The old rule used to be that cleaning destabilizes...not true, it cures invasions

Accumulations are also nice sources of marine snow feed and worm farm zones, theyre not all bad but they sure do fuel things that make us want to dose offset


vibrant, another rung on the ladder, it’s degraded target fuels cyano

we should clean the system owing to those clues. We can kill algae vs dose for it, no wait outcome. Nothing will beat a rip clean, all else kicks the can down the road for next month


the fact you have an enduring matted invader of any species indicates these detritus and organic stores / curious to know how you want to proceed with it. Your tank can be drained into a mere two brutes

we should get this tank free of all systemic invasion dosers, rocks and sand. All forms of indirect invader control simply compound waste they never remove it, eventually it will be required to export the system though now a system that large still has storage time.
 

GabeM

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Chemiclean micro spoon measures 0.15cc = Approximately 1/32 teaspoon or 100 milligrams

chemiclean-spoon-241x300.jpg


per https://chemi-pure.com/faqs-chemiclean/

That being said I stopped using Chemiclean and started dosing peroxide and that took care of my outbreak.
 

notemanj

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any chance I can persuade you not to use it?

reason am asking: its a medication that may or may not kill cyano, but if it does that dead mass compounds in the tank as + waste, in addition to whats there and likely feeding this round of cyano

if you have a large system then dose away/find a spoon and you can deal with the mass when it builds

but if this system is anywhere near 40 gallons or less-thats easy takedown cleaning size and we can put back a totally cleaned tank, and sand, with zero accumulation and zero invader, and this is the best approach because it aligns your tank for future success. using chemiclean right now aligns it for future storage, and cyclic infestation of cyano on the compounding waste. the reason you have to use bubblers and stuff in the main tank when dosing it is because its so harsh on the biology, its just a bad item to use unless the tank is so large that work just can't be done

(but one day will be required, or it will crash depending on # of treatments and compounding rates)

*some invasions are so low level neither deep clean or meds are required, merely some light topical cleaning. post pics
Found this thread because I was looking for the same answer. I have a 30 gallon tank, with a 10 gallon sump. I cannot get rid of the cyano or hair algae. Tank is just over 1 1/2 yrs old. I am about to give up.

So, one day to take it down and clean it all. Define this please. I can put the fish (2 clowns), crabs and one paly in the QT. But if I take everything out and start over, aren’t I killing all of the good bacteria? I can get more sand. But, how do I clean the rock I have in there and not kill the good bacteria, yet still kill the cyano?
 

brandon429

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Note Im very happy to hear that, pls see these two recent jobs, right at about thirty gallons. every detail in a short post

I carved off the two best i'd seen, to save a 50 page work thread read these are perfect models:

chemi clean can't beat that. but, it has helped in large tanks that were too big to rip clean so that's a positive for it.

The way it works right now is your sandbed and rocks happen to contain cloudy waste if they're like most tanks expressing cyano, it doesn't mean anything is bad about the tank. that's the right phase for it to be in all conditions given.

all we do is cheat the hound out of that, and force it to look just like we want. it turns out that isn't harmful, though it would seem to be.
 

notemanj

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Note Im very happy to hear that, pls see these two recent jobs, right at about thirty gallons. every detail in a short post

I carved off the two best i'd seen, to save a 50 page work thread read these are perfect models:

chemi clean can't beat that. but, it has helped in large tanks that were too big to rip clean so that's a positive for it.

The way it works right now is your sandbed and rocks happen to contain cloudy waste if they're like most tanks expressing cyano, it doesn't mean anything is bad about the tank. that's the right phase for it to be in all conditions given.

all we do is cheat the hound out of that, and force it to look just like we want. it turns out that isn't harmful, though it would seem to be.
Thank you! I really appreciate the positive thoughts. I’ve been working on it now. This is exactly the help I needed!
 

brandon429

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updates asap ha nice/ after pics we thrive on em
 

mindme

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Chemiclean micro spoon measures 0.15cc = Approximately 1/32 teaspoon or 100 milligrams

chemiclean-spoon-241x300.jpg


per https://chemi-pure.com/faqs-chemiclean/

That being said I stopped using Chemiclean and started dosing peroxide and that took care of my outbreak.

The name for a spoon size of 1/32 teaspoon is a "Smidgen".

a "Pinch" of something is 1/16 tsp.

You can buy spoons with the measurements. They are extremely handy. There are others also. Dash, Tad, Hint etc. When I saw them on recipes, I thought it meant you just put a little in.

Only found a few years ago they were real measurements. Thought it was interesting.
 

notemanj

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updates asap ha nice/ after pics we thrive on em
So, here is pre-clean, mid, and final. The floating stuff in the first is all of the algae from the glass. I had to clean it just to take the pic. I was really ready to throw in the towel. You save the tank for one last try. It’s beautiful now. Parameters have always been good. Now can I keep it this way? How long would you suggest the lights stay more blue?
 

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