Chloroquine phosphate

[androidx1]

I think the last time I had NFP's CP tested, it was ~ 96% pure. Good enough according to my chemist. As mentioned above, overdose slightly (50 mg/gal) to compensate for the fillers.

Thanks Hunblefish........OK great.....good enough for me....I will get some today.
Again though...anybody reading this forum...if you need some, I can divide up the cost and send to you.....not looking to make any money here, I'll charge you exactly what I pay for it per gram....If I can get 1 to 6 people that need some that would be great to split up the cost :)

 

[androidx1]

by the way.....maybe this is common knowledge but did you guys know that NFP and Fishman Chem have the same phone number?

I just realized that today.....I know I remember hearing the name Fishman somewhere in one of these threads about CP.........but I just dont remember which one or why..........

Anyway.....I am assuming based on the same ph# that the cp from either place must be the same.......

 

[Manthanol]

Thanks Hunblefish........OK great.....good enough for me....I will get some today.
Again though...anybody reading this forum...if you need some, I can divide up the cost and send to you.....not looking to make any money here, I'll charge you exactly what I pay for it per gram....If I can get 1 to 6 people that need some that would be great to split up the cost :)

One other option is to buy from eBay seller mr_frags_llc. Many of us tried this seller and his CP is therapeutic and he sells in small quantities. I've used it on fish with CI and velvet with great results. Good luck.

 

[Dr. Reef]

by the way.....maybe this is common knowledge but did you guys know that NFP and Fishman Chem have the same phone number?

I just realized that today.....I know I remember hearing the name Fishman somewhere in one of these threads about CP.........but I just dont remember which one or why..........

Anyway.....I am assuming based on the same ph# that the cp from either place must be the same.......

They are same company but 2 separate sale practices.
NPF will sell in smaller quantities to hobbyists while Fishman is bulk order in larger quantities.

Either or CP is good from both

 

[Hitman]

One other option is to buy from eBay seller mr_frags_llc. Many of us tried this seller and his CP is therapeutic and he sells in small quantities. I've used it on fish with CI and velvet with great results. Good luck.

That’s who I get it from the last two years and have always had a positive transaction and his CP flat works!

 

[androidx1]

Thanks guys for all your help!!!! I got the CP on the way....I bought some from ebay "mrfrag" after getting some assurance from him on where he is getting it, and I also have a sample coming from NPF/Fishman......I ordered the stuff on ebay in case NPF doesnt send....... :)

If anyone needs any....let me know and I can send some out...just pay the shipping.....assuming I get the sample from NPF anyway.......

Thanks again guys for all your input!!!

 

[androidx1]

ok....started dosing the CP before i really wanted to but the powder blue i have which has been in QT for about a week developed ick (i think- had what looked like bumps under his skin) despite his good condition....good eating..........so i started the Cp at 50mg/gal.....couple things i notice
1. he is a bit pale now? is this normal? and is it caused by CP or due to ick.......the bumps on skin are already going away and he has continued to eat...so far
2. water looks cloudy. is this normal with CP? i have the seachem ammo badge and its reading 0 ammonia
thanks

 

[androidx1]

one more question......after the 21days...do i need to move him out of thant tank and directly into display due to riak of reinfection or can i consider the QT free of ick or velvet for that matter......

 

[Manthanol]

ok....started dosing the CP before i really wanted to but the powder blue i have which has been in QT for about a week developed ick (i think- had what looked like bumps under his skin) despite his good condition....good eating..........so i started the Cp at 50mg/gal.....couple things i notice
1. he is a bit pale now? is this normal? and is it caused by CP or due to ick.......the bumps on skin are already going away and he has continued to eat...so far
2. water looks cloudy. is this normal with CP? i have the seachem ammo badge and its reading 0 ammonia
thanks

I do not keep PBT so I have no idea why it's getting pale in CP. According to this chart it should be fine in CP. Maybe it could be nutrition. Look into the sticky threads for Fish and Treatment Guidelines.
The cloudy water condition could be due to bacterial bloom when some medication/chemical are used in conjunction with others. I've always dosed CP with GC without any adverse effect to the water but avoid using Prazipro due to interaction between CP and the oxybispropanol present in Prazipro.
I also like to observe for 2 weeks in a clean QT after CP treatment of less then 30 days just to be sure. I usually treat for 14 days and observe for another 14 days before going to DT. Hope this is helpful, good luck.

 

[androidx1]

Thanks Menthanol.....
so when you say "2 weeks in a Clean QT" are you saying a new tank/sterilized tank that was not used in the treatment process? I ask because I dont have a 2nd QT tank.........Could I just do a large water change at the end of the 21 day treatment and add activated carbon? Or is not moving the fish to a new/sterilized QT going to risk re-infection???

On a side note- even though the powder blue is a little faded right now....he and the flame that are in there both rush to the front of the glass when I enter and eat like pigs. (nori, emerald entre, pygme angel food...etc etc), I of course am very careful about not overfeeding....

Just for reference......My QT is a 15 gal with both a new sponge filter and a Aquaclear 70 (which includes a seeded sponge and seeded bag of matrix both of which came from the sump of my display tank which has been without fish for 5 months but I do feed the DT tank and dose ammonia to keep everything else in the tank healthy).

 

[Manthanol]

Thanks Menthanol.....
so when you say "2 weeks in a Clean QT" are you saying a new tank/sterilized tank that was not used in the treatment process? I ask because I dont have a 2nd QT tank.........Could I just do a large water change at the end of the 21 day treatment and add activated carbon? Or is not moving the fish to a new/sterilized QT going to risk re-infection???

On a side note- even though the powder blue is a little faded right now....he and the flame that are in there both rush to the front of the glass when I enter and eat like pigs. (nori, emerald entre, pygme angel food...etc etc), I of course am very careful about not overfeeding....

Just for reference......My QT is a 15 gal with both a new sponge filter and a Aquaclear 70 (which includes a seeded sponge and seeded bag of matrix both of which came from the sump of my display tank which has been without fish for 5 months but I do feed the DT tank and dose ammonia to keep everything else in the tank healthy).

I either treat for 14 days then move to new/sterilized tank for 2 week for observation or treat for 30 days then a large WC plus activated carbon. Some fish will have depressed appetite while on CP after 2 weeks.

 

[tdlawdo]

Chloroquine phosphate: Treats Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans), Marine Velvet Disease (Amyloodinium), Brooklynella hostilis & Uronema marinum.

How To Treat - Chloroquine phosphate (CP) is a “new drug” that actually was widely used to control external protozoa in saltwater aquariums back in the 70s & 80s. It was even used in some aquarium medications sold at LFS. Nowadays CP requires a prescription to purchase legitimately, making it more difficult to obtain. Fast forward to today and thanks to the power of the Internet, CP has come roaring back! The biggest obstacle to overcome is obtaining pharmaceutical grade 99% pure CP. I cannot stress the importance of this enough. Do not buy it from some guy on eBay or even an online vendor. The only way to be sure you are getting 99% pure CP is to get your vet (or an MD) to write a prescription which can then be filled by a compounding pharmacy.

CP is a “one and done” medication, meaning you dose once and that’s it. There are no test kits for CP, so it’s important that you dose accurately using a digital scale. Also, don’t forget to dose any replacement water (from water changes, but not top-off) with CP. The dosage rates are as follows:

• Prophylactic treatment is 40 mg per gallon.
• For active infections (visible symptoms present), I typically will up the dosage to 60mg/gal. However, I cannot say if this is anymore effective than the "standard" 40mg/gal dose.
• For Uronema marinum and really bad infestations, you can dose up to 80mg/gal. However, I have noticed appetite suppression and lethargy at this concentration. :oops:

As you can see, there is quite a bit of wiggle room between the minimum & maximum dosage. Practically speaking, 40mg/gal will treat all external protozoa issues… its just that the higher dosages may get the job done a little faster. Treatment lasts 30 consecutive days, and no carbon, UV, etc. may be used during this time (although it can be used later when you wish to remove the medication from the water.) A little quirk about CP is that light will degrade it; however it appears this mainly applies to the powder itself, so store your CP in a cool, dark place. Once in water, you may use an aquarium light with CP - however fish with velvet are light sensitive so I would only use ambient lighting (ex. lamp across the room) if treating for that. CP is NOT reef safe. In addition to killing your corals, it is a very strong algaecide.

Pros - Gentle on most fish (see DO NOT USE list below), a “one and done” medication that treats most external protozoa. CP is the closest thing there is to a “wonder drug” in our hobby.

Cons/Side Effects - Expensive, hard to get (requires a prescription), powder is heat & light sensitive - so store in a cool, dark place. Attempts to feed CP laced food are usually not successful due to its bad metallic taste.

** Based upon anecdotal experience (mine and others), DO NOT USE CP on Anthias, Wrasses or Hippo Tangs. For the time being, chelated copper (exs. Coppersafe, Copper Power) is the best alternative to use on these species. **

** Finally, a place to buy Chloroquine: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/a-place-to-buy-chloroquine.252610/ **

** Special thanks to @svogun for providing this link, which can be used to find aquatic vets in your area for sourcing CP: http://www.aquavetmed.info/ **

What is the water change recommendation for the QT? 25% daily every other day? And do I need to run an air stone in addition to power head? Thanks

 

[tdlawdo]

Thanks Menthanol.....
so when you say "2 weeks in a Clean QT" are you saying a new tank/sterilized tank that was not used in the treatment process? I ask because I dont have a 2nd QT tank.........Could I just do a large water change at the end of the 21 day treatment and add activated carbon? Or is not moving the fish to a new/sterilized QT going to risk re-infection???

On a side note- even though the powder blue is a little faded right now....he and the flame that are in there both rush to the front of the glass when I enter and eat like pigs. (nori, emerald entre, pygme angel food...etc etc), I of course am very careful about not overfeeding....

Just for reference......My QT is a 15 gal with both a new sponge filter and a Aquaclear 70 (which includes a seeded sponge and seeded bag of matrix both of which came from the sump of my display tank which has been without fish for 5 months but I do feed the DT tank and dose ammonia to keep everything else in the tank healthy).

Mine is faded also one day into CP

 

[androidx1]

Mine is faded also one day into CP

Good to know....mine is still faded but is acting normal and still eating like a pig...i have been cutting small pcs of nori and soaking in water then picking them up with my finger.....and dipping my finger into the tank to release the pcs of nori and the powder blue is basically taking the nori from my finger befor it floats off.....so the med doesnt seem to be affecting him or the flame at all

 

[tdlawdo]

Good to know....mine is still faded but is acting normal and still eating like a pig...i have been cutting small pcs of nori and soaking in water then picking them up with my finger.....and dipping my finger into the tank to release the pcs of nori and the powder blue is basically taking the nori from my finger befor it floats off.....so the med doesnt seem to be affecting him or the flame at all

Mine never really quit eating at all 5 still downing spirulina brine and mysis and LRS. they have never liked any freeze dried nori they only eat live macr like red ogo. Keep each other posted. good luck

 

[androidx1]

I started the CP on 9/1. originally I was 3 days into a prazi treatment when I saw some bumps on the body of the Powder blue (based on what I have read) it was ick...but I have never seen ick manifest iteself as kind of large bumps under the skin, but I was assured this is how it starts out looking in a powder blue tang...so I immediately performed a very large water change and started the CP on 9/1. Dosing at 50mg/gal due to he purity question of my CP.

I did a water change (and dosed the new water at the same 50mg/gal) a few days ago because my amonia badge is showing a light green color....I have also added prime to the water, but it did not change the badge color.

not sure why I am getting ammonia....I have an aquaclear 70 on the 15gal tank with a seeded sponge and seeded bag of matrix which was removed from my display that has not had fish for several months but I am feeding it to keep snails/crabs alive and bio filter healthy

I am planning to do another water change tonight and again will dose the new water at 50mg/gal.

Both fish still eating well, and I am very careful not too overfeed.

Here is a pic of my QT tank shoe horned in behind a wall in my basement.

 

[androidx1]

OK...all seemed great..made it through 30 days with the CP. Did a 50% waterchange on Tuesday and started carbon on the tank to remove any left over CP. Well today my power blue doesnt look good.....hiding and his pectoral fins look a little suspicous (not clean and clear)......and his stomach looks a little bloated. seems pretty listless

through the 30 days, I have been feeding nori, marine cuisine, and Emerald entree . The emerald entree was mixed with metroplex and the binder.

He literally went from eating and looking fine last night to not so good this morning. Crazy.....

Any ideas about the bloating? is it from me feeding marine cuisine?

I started a new dose of CP since he looked like he did, but not sure if there is anything else I could do.

I have some (various antibiotics on hand (kanaplex, and furan-2) that I could administer as well.....

should I add epsomsalt? if so, can I add it to the tank that has CP in it?

By the way, I heard CP degrades with light, so I turned all blue channels off and only had the whites at 3% for the entire 30 days. I am wondering if maybe the bacteria in the tank is also reducing the level of CP and maybe the CP levels were too low in my tank. I did prob 3 or 4 35% water changes and added new CP to the replacement water but maybe this was not enough to keep CP levels where they should be.

The Powder blue tang is the reason I started dosing the CP in the first place...he had bumps on his body that from what I read is common to the start of ick....so when I started the CP treatement, he got better almost immediately!!!

Im pretty worried Im going to lose him now though..........very discouraged here......

By the way, I also have a flame angel in the tank and he seems uneffected, though I suspect a slight case of tale rott which I was going to start treating today with the Trio of antibiotics (Kanaplex, Metroplex, Furan-2).

 

[androidx1]

Well I lost my Powder Blue....I am so upset and discouraged.....I lost him 1 day after I noticed the issue and I think 3 days after stopping the CP treatment after 30 days. Now my Flame in the same tank is sick......I already re-added the CP to the tank yesterday and also added the Trifecta of Antibiotics as well........he seems a tad better this evening.....but I guess time will tell......

I feel that the dosage of CP started to weaken in the tank over the 30 day period, and allowed for the protozoan to linger in the tank but not infect the fish....but then what i did the water to remove CP and added the carbon.....the protozoan came back in full force and killed my Powder Blue and made my flame sick.

Do you guys feel the same? And if so.....what would you recommend....maybe adding more CP throught the 30 day treatment.....but then the question is how much to add and how often.

I could run a non cycled tank I guess, but not sure I have the time to meet the requirements of the needed waterchanges if the tank is not cycled......its like a catch 22.......

Any input/recommendations for next time would be greatly appreciated......

 

[Humblefish]

The original post of this thread has been updated with new information containing significant changes.

 

[ReefHog]

I like to do the 10 day CP treatment then transfer to observation tank with black molly. It appears that Diamondback Drugs no longer sells CP in powder form. I'm worried that if using pill form, it would be hard to know that the binders in the mashed up pill(s) are mixed equally with the base. So when only using a portion of the mashed pill for make up water may have more or less binders or base than the next portion. Does that make since? At least using the NFP powder CP the powder should be consistent I would think. Am I over thinking this? Do you @Humblefish have a preference using the pill form and upping the dosage to compensate for the binders or using the powder from NFP at the higher dosage? Is there another recommended pharmacy that has powder CP?