Chloroquine phosphate

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If one doesn't have an observation tank to transfer to after 10 days do you have any suggestions? I was planning on using CP but would need to be able to do it in a single QT tank. Thanks
Could you put the fish in a bucket, then drain the tank, hose it out, refill with new water, then put the fish back in it?
 

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I believe you have to keep the cp in there longer (30days) and water change and carbon to remove it.
 

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I had a PBT recently that I treated and my story went almost exactly like Androidx1’s. Started with bumps under the skin, those cleared up and it looked flawless through treatment. Afterwards, it got a bloated stomach, got pale and died. I treated in my DT, so had 8 other fish that did just fine and still look fine. I did use PraziPro after treatment (in the DT). I was told that was okay, but see here that it is not? The Water has been cloudy the last three weeks and does not appear to be clearing up.
 

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I'm just guessing. I'm in the same spot too. I have my quarantine tank, but I absolutely do not have room for another tank. ( or outlets to run it.)

Yeah, it's getting pretty wild at my place too with tanks everywhere. lol
 
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Humblefish

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Do you @Humblefish have a preference using the pill form and upping the dosage to compensate for the binders or using the powder from NFP at the higher dosage? Is there another recommended pharmacy that has powder CP?

I only use the powder from NFP because it has consistently tested 96-97% pure.

If one doesn't have an observation tank to transfer to after 10 days do you have any suggestions? I was planning on using CP but would need to be able to do it in a single QT tank. Thanks

You would need to treat for 30 full days (same as copper). However, some fish start acting "loopy" after 20 or so days in CP.
 

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Could you put the fish in a bucket, then drain the tank, hose it out, refill with new water, then put the fish back in it?
This can work. You should disinfect tank and equipment though. Water should be parasite free but equipment might not be as meds only kill free swimmers. I’d get extra heater and air pump for five gallon bucket for fish while you disinfect tank. Rinse several times with fresh water and dry with hair dryer. You could use dechlorinator to be safe before adding fish back in. You’d also want some bio media from a known diesease free tank or Dr. Tim’s
I only use the powder from NFP because it has consistently tested 96-97% pure.
Thank you
 

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I have a few questions that I'd like clarification, if possible.

The original post says treat for 10 days then transfer to clean observation tank but the following post from humblefish says 30 days in bare qt. Which is correct?

Do I use a seeded sponge or not? It's not clear in the following posts.

Can I purchase directly from NFP without a prescription? Their site is not clear.

Can prime be dosed more than once safely? It says not to on the package.

Is this safe for pygmy possume wrasses? Is it just flashers that it affects?

Thank you.
 
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Humblefish

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@Jeeperz Regarding Chloroquine and a seeded sponge... I'll have a better answer for that next week once I get test results back on using Chloroquine with a working biofilter.

You can purchase directly from NFP without a prescription.

Prime can be safely dosed every 24 hours. The water may turn cloudy if too much ammonia is being bound in the water.

You can safely use Chloroquine on all wrasses except Flashers and Pseudocheilinus wrasses (e.g. Sixline, Mystery).
 

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I used CP to treat 2 fish showing signs of velvet or simillar.

it worked and after the 10 day period I moved them to a larger QT with 10 gallons of the CP water and 10 gallons of new water.

these fish remained for about 3 weeks before I put them in on of my other tanks that is disease/prasite free.

I want to treat the remaining fish in the diseased tank, and I was wondering how I should re-dose the QT water. Should I change out all 20 gallons and do a dose for 20 gallons, should I do a normal 10-20% water change and just dose the new water going into the QT?

lastly, the remaining fish in the diseases tank are wrasses. 2 not showing signs of disease, one is. Moyeri leopard wrasse and melanarus wrasse are not showing signs but my exquisite fairy wrasse is. I have read CP works on wrasses some say don’t. I have no experience with copper or other drugs and would really like to treat with CP if I can

edit: is it ok to add dishes with sand for the wrasses to sleep while medicating with CP?
 
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Humblefish

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I want to treat the remaining fish in the diseased tank, and I was wondering how I should re-dose the QT water. Should I change out all 20 gallons and do a dose for 20 gallons, should I do a normal 10-20% water change and just dose the new water going into the QT?

lastly, the remaining fish in the diseases tank are wrasses. 2 not showing signs of disease, one is. Moyeri leopard wrasse and melanarus wrasse are not showing signs but my exquisite fairy wrasse is. I have read CP works on wrasses some say don’t. I have no experience with copper or other drugs and would really like to treat with CP if I can

edit: is it ok to add dishes with sand for the wrasses to sleep while medicating with CP?

CP can degrade rapidly in an established QT, so I suggest setting up a brand new QT, dose a little nitrifying bacteria to get the biofilter going, and treat that way. I've successfully used CP on all genera of wrasses except Coris, Paracheilinus and Pseudocheilinus spp.
 
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onetootreefor

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CP can degrade rapidly in an established QT, so I suggest setting up a brand new QT, dose a little nitrifying bacteria to get the biofilter going, and treat that way. I've successfully used CP on all genera of wrasses except Coris, Paracheilinus and Pseudocheilinus spp.
Thanks for the reply.

sorry I’m really a newb to QT and medication so I need a little more clarification.

when you say start a new QT instead of using the one I have established...are you saying to just take out the seeded sponge, replace it with a new seeded sponge or fresh sponge, and replace all water in the qt with new water? Would that do the trick?

I’m a bit worried to start fresh like that as I will have 3 wrasses in a 20 gallon qt and I’m worrisome about the ammonia. I have plenty of seeded sponges from other tanks for this exact reason and I can pick up some nitrifying bacteria. I’m all ears! Thanks again
 

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I used CP to treat 2 fish showing signs of velvet or simillar.

it worked and after the 10 day period I moved them to a larger QT with 10 gallons of the CP water and 10 gallons of new water...

Shouldn't we be transferring the treated fish from CP treated HT to a separate QT tank without any water from the CP treated HT? @Humblefish
 
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when you say start a new QT instead of using the one I have established...are you saying to just take out the seeded sponge, replace it with a new seeded sponge or fresh sponge, and replace all water in the qt with new water? Would that do the trick?

As a QT matures, bacteria starts to spread to regions other than the biofilter. In particular, biofilm will grow on the glass, equipment, etc. This biofilm will degrade all non-copper medications, including Chloroquine. (Possibly below therapeutic.)

So, to safeguard against this happening it's best to breakdown & sterilize your QT in-between batches of fish. Just pull the filter media itself out, and put that in a bucket with an airstone to use for next time.
 
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Humblefish

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Shouldn't we be transferring the treated fish from CP treated HT to a separate QT tank without any water from the CP treated HT? @Humblefish

Yes, good catch. NOTHING from the treatment tank should be reused for the observation tank. Only transfer the fish. The tanks should also be 10 feet apart to account for aerosol transmission.
 

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Yes, good catch. NOTHING from the treatment tank should be reused for the observation tank. Only transfer the fish. The tanks should also be 10 feet apart to account for aerosol transmission.
Just to clarify I didn’t transfer any treated water to any of my display tanks. I just bought a larger 20 gallon qt tank and transferred the contents and fish from my 10 gallon qt to my 20 gallon qt so I could use both in the future.

thanks for the info I will give it my best shot on round 2!
 

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i have an aussie question = we being metric i m having troubles with the dosage

Could someone with better MATHS that i do help

I have an 80 litre QT tank and i would like to dosage rate in grams for. Please note that i Conduct 40litre water changes

15mg/l
30mg/l
and the maximum does
80mg/l

i hope this is not to much trouble and would really appriceate your assistance
 
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