ChukeeR's 266G Reef Savvy + Synergy Reef Build / Upgrade

TylerS

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It might be time for me to find some different heaters to run. I originally thought that three 300 watt Finnex HMO-300s with Digital Controllers would do the trick, but I feel like they're having a hard time keeping up. With about 360 gallons of total water in my system and a sump in the basement where the ambient temps are int he mid 60's I figured 900 watts would be sufficient.

Additionally the temperature controllers on all three of them is about 10* off. My Apex, a glass thermometer, and another digital thermometer read 77-78 and the controllers on the heaters read 87-88*, so it doesn't appear that I need to re-calibrate the Apex temp probe. This makes me somewhat uncomfortable as I prefer that the heater controllers be within their advertised +/- 2 degree mark as I intend to use their controllers as backups to the Apex should the Apex ever lose it's communication with the EBs.

I have the controllers on each of the heaters set to 90*. Then I have my Apex set to keep the heater outlets on until 78*. Once the water temp is 78* the heater outlets turn off. When the water temp drops below 77.6 the outlets turn back on.

Another weird thing I observed is that the Apex is reporting that the EB8 which I have the heaters plugged into (nothing else plugged into the EB8) is only using 3.7 Amps at max...I would have thought that three 300 watt heaters consume closer to 8-9Amps? Maybe my EB8 isn't monitoring the Amps correctly? I read some articles about potentially needing to calibrate the EB8s for Amp monitoring. OR the heaters really aren't 300 watts? I'm thinking I'm going to try my 'Kill-A-Watt' meter tonight when I get home from work to see if each heater is actually drawing the advertised amount of electricity.

Doesn't look terrible when looking at Fusion...

fusion.jpg

But when I look at the Apex App on my phone it definitely seems like it struggles to meet the 78* temp in the overnight hours. I'd prefer to see a more consistent and predictable increase to 78* then drop to 77.6* and repeat, similar to what happens between 2PM and 8PM.

image1.png

I wish the Cobalt Neo-Therm heaters came in larger sizes; I really like them. I had two 200 watt Neo-Therms on my 90G and they worked perfectly for over 2 years. I'd probably need at least five 200Watt Neo-Therms at a minimum to heat my system. :(

Not sure which heaters I'm going to try next at this point...Might go with some Ehiem Jagers. Other recommendations are appreciated as well! :)



UPDATE - Just ordered three 500 Watt Finnex Titanium Heating Tubes. Going to control them with the Apex as I've already been doing, but hopefully these are sufficient for the rest of the winter. I imagine in the spring / summer I can take one of them offline.

Have you tried insulating the drainpipe, and return lines, as well as the sump? You could use hard foam board and then remove it in the summer. You could also put the foam board insulation on the underside of the stand for the display tank and sump. I'd imagine the pipe insulation could be a big deal by itself. You can get fiberglass wraps or batts and stuff it around the pipes.

I'm curious how much insulating reduces the need for heating since that's what I plan to do. Running your heaters costs money, for me it's about $1 for every watt (if it's running non-stop for the year - so in your case it would be more than $900 per year just on heating if the heaters ran non-stop).
 
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Swapped out two of the 300 watt heaters for two 500 watt hears...So now I have two 500's and one 300...Much better! Can actually see the temp fluctuating a little bit more consistently...No more having heaters run nearly all night long trying to reach the desired temp. Temps reach 78* heaters turn off...Temp drops to 77.5* and heaters turn back on.

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I also plugged my heaters in to a Kill-A-Watt Meter and it looks like the Apex is incorrectly monitoring the amperage being used. I found some forum threads on the Neptune site that discuss recalibrating the Amp Monitoring...Tried that and no luck. Not a huge deal at this point though.


Now I get to sit back and enjoy the Diatoms bloom that recently started and get use to having a much larger system. Still lots to be done, but none of it necessarily seems cheap at this point, haha!

- Another RD3 Speedy 230 as mentioned earlier for redundancy
- Swap out old Vortech MP40s for some new Vortech MP60QD
- Pickup a Bio-pellet reactor
- Dosing Pumps (I'll worry about these when I get more coral in the tank)
- Upgrade my mixing station. Currently I am using 2 Brute trash cans, one for RODI and the other for mixing. Worked fine when I was just running a 90G system, but now ~40 Gallons just really doesn't do much if I every need to do a much larger water change for whatever reason.
 
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First post of 2016. Today is the official 5 week mark as well...

FTS (Not much change since last week. Got some diatoms showing up)...
DSC_0899.JPG

Updated shot of the filtration area in the basement...Apex moved over...I need to hole-saw some holes and get some grommets...just to make the wire management look a little neater. Hooked up one of my BRS dosers as well. Currently only dosing Red Sea NO3:pO4-X. I feed a bit on the heavy side and when I tested this morning Nitrates were about 25ppm. We'll see how well this stuff works in the coming weeks.

Still haven't opened up the valve so that the 65G tank can share the sump. Need to plumb a return for it first then I can open it up to share the filtration...Which should bring my total system volume up to about 400G.

I've only done a 30G water change thus far. With about 360G of total volume in the system; 30G isn't much of a water change.

DSC_0900.JPG
DSC_0901.JPG
 
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Short video of some Ventralis Anthias and a trio of Lyretail Anthias in my tank. Anthias are probably one of my favorite kinds of fish. They just have a lot of personality.
 
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So I've been dosing for N03:p04-X for about 2 weeks now...I've been taking the middle road with the recommended dosage (2ML per every 25G) and I've seen my nitrates drop very quickly from 25 to 5 (salifert test), but since then my nitrates have been stable at 5 and I've had an annoying bacteria bloom. It's not the worst bloom I've ever seen, but I much prefer my water be crystal clear versus slightly cloudy. I've noticed some nasty clear / white slime build up on the surfaces of the sump as well. I've also had to change out filter socks every day because they clog so fast since starting to dose N03:p04-X. Still debating if I should switch over to running without socks. I just don't want a bunch of waste building up in my sump. At least my skimmer has been pulling out some nasty junk though!

Since the bacteria bloom isn't really going away on its own, I decided to cut the dosage down to 1ML per every 25G. Red Sea only recommends this amount when your nitrates are between 0 and 2.5, but we'll see what happens. Once the bacteria bloom is gone, I'll slowly start upping the dosage again (if needed) until I can get the nitrates a little bit closer to 0. Trying to get this all figured out and stabilized before I start adding SPS to the tank. In the past I've always been successful with LPS, but not so much with SPS.

I'm also debating on switching salts from regular IO to Red Sea Salt. I've used both Red Sea Salt and Red Sea Coral Pro in the past. I went back to IO since its MUCH cheaper and I need quite a bit more SW versus what I needed when I was just running my 90G system. I'd like something with a little bit lower Alk since I'm intending to run closer to 0 nitrates. When I last tested my Alk was 9.1, Calcium 410, and Magnesium 1520 (Red Sea Kits). I need to order some reagents for my Hannah Checkers so that I can compare the Alk and Calcium results, just to make sure what I'm seeing is accurate.

Maybe once I get more coral into the tank though the Alk will be consumed much faster? I'd like to see it around 7-8. I only have 4 or 5 frags of LPS in the tank right now and they seem to be doing fine.

On another note, I seeded about 6000 pods from Algae Barn a few weeks ago and these things are EVERYWHERE!! So it's nice to see that I have a the beginning of a nice population of pods.
 
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Bob Escher

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Wow looks fantastic, I have to a. build a house before I can do that
What are the other displays to the right of the Neptune systems display
 
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Awesome tank!
 
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Wow looks fantastic, I have to a. build a house before I can do that
What are the other displays to the right of the Neptune systems display

Sorry for the lack of responses...DockDogs Indoor season has started again so things with the tank have slowed down a bit as our pup is getting the majority of our attention. The displays you mentioned are the pump controllers for the Royal Exclusiv return and skimmer pumps.

I've just been maintaining the tank for the time being...I'm a bit bummed because we went out of town for a weekend, came back and BOTH the Ventralias Anthias were missing. Checked the overflow, checked the sump, checked in the filter socks, looked around in the rocks, nothing. Never saw their bodies, never saw a mass of hermit crabs eating a dead fish, nothing at all! We have a screen over the top of the tank so there's no way they went carpet surfing.

Been dosing Red Sea N03:p04-X for a while now and it seems to be working well. Used a Salifert N03 test last week and there weren't any traceable nitrates (tested twice to be sure). It's pretty nice to only have to clean the glass once a week or so and its usually a white film that accumulates on the glass. I do have to clean the skimmer about twice a week though because it pulls out some nasty stuff!

Also replaced the MP40 wetsides with MP40QD wetsides...Crazy how quiet these pumps are again. I guess my old pumps were a bit worn out as they would occasionally make rattling noises as if the pump wasn't lined up properly. I originally wanted to get some Mp60s, but the two MP40s appear to be generating plenty of flow for the time being.


Current livestock:
3x Lyretail Anthias
1 Magnificent Foxface
1 Golden Head Sleeper Goby
1 Starry Blenny
2 Snowflake Clowns
1 Golden Rhomboidalis Wrasse
1 Multicolor Lubbock's Fairy Wrasse
2 Skunk Cleaner Shrimp
1 Strawberry Crab

Then a couple dozen snails and hermit crabs...

Right now not much for coral...couple chalices, a huge toadstool, and a rock anemone.

Just going to continue taking things slowly at this point.
 
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Sorry - I've been horrible at updating this!! I'm not really sure where to begin...This tank has been a bit of a humbling experience and learning curve. I started dosing N03:p04-X and the results have been awesome...except I probably should have turned down the dosage sooner because I have been battling bacterial slime for almost a month or so now. At least I figure it was from a carbon dosing overdose. Looked like snot hanging off the rocks. I've been blowing off the rocks every other day or so and when doing water changes I've tried to siphon out as much as possible. I cut back the N03:p04-X dosage a few weeks ago and it seems like things are getting better...just a matter of getting the slime out of the rock crevices and what not. Either way much better now than a few weeks ago!

I had an issue with something killing off my fish as well...Lost both of the Ventralis Anthias, Blotched Antias, Rhomboid Wrasse, Helfrichi Firefish, and a Copperband. :( Basically if it was an expensive fish, it didn't make it.

Then Ventralis Anthias and Firefish just disappeared never to be found again. I guess the hermits in my tank have had some very nice snacks! Or maybe the rock anemone had a very expensive meal or two. I found the Blotched Anthias floating up against the overflow box. I was pretty bummed on this one. One of my favorite fish and I had had him for almost 2 years. I figured I was in trouble with him because one day he just stopping coming out of his rock cave. Previously he was ALWAYS out swimming around. I feel like the Rhomboid Wrasse had a swim bladder infection or something because he was swimming very erratically and doing barrel rolls. Tried to treat him with Prazipro and he lived for a couple weeks longer, albeit doing barrel rolls the whole time. I would target feed him and he seemingly ate very well. The Copperband was doing really well, eating Mysis like a pig, then one day he was just hovering up against the back of the tank, unusual for him, later that day laying flat on the sand bed. Moved him to QT and next morning he was gone.

A little over a month after the 'plague' wiped out the more rare and expensive fish in our system, we still have our Starry Blenny, 2x Snowflake Clowns, Magnificent Foxface, Blue / Green Chromis, 3x Lyretail Anthias, Gold Head Sleeper Goby, and Lubbock's Fairy Wrasse. Guess they were immune to whatever got the other fish sick.

Back to some good news, looks like we had some of our snails make baby snails because now we have TONS of little snails all over. They're still pretty small, but look like Trochus snails? Since the Copperband is gone I've been able to move my Acans back into the display. Previously he was picking at them so they were moved out. They seem to be pretty happy now. Rock Anemone looks to have doubled in size since moving it to the new tank and our Toadstool has finally re-anchored itself to a rock and the clowns are happily hosting it again.

For the time being just going to keep on monitoring things and make sure I have a good grasp in maintaining this beast. Spring / Summer becomes very busy with DockDogs competitions so I don't want to introduce any new problems.
 
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How much NO3PO4 are you dosing?

Right now about 10.5ml/day, a little more than half the recommended daily value for the minimum dosage. I have it divided into 3 separate doses during the lighting period.

I've found that 2-3ml per every 25/gal is WAY to much for my system.
 

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Right now about 10.5ml/day, a little more than half the recommended daily value for the minimum dosage. I have it divided into 3 separate doses during the lighting period.

I've found that 2-3ml per every 25/gal is WAY to much for my system.
Automated?
 
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So I came across this a little over a week ago - http://ecotechmarine.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/Ecotech_CoralLab_WP1.pdf and I'm trying out the PHX14 schedule.

I finally got around to ditching the HOB filter on the 65G next to the sump and plumbing a return so that it shares the sump with my main display. I should have around 400G of total water volume now. Seems like my skimmer is liking the added bioload as its really pulling some nasty junk out all the time now. Prior to combining the systems my skimmer would frequently just be bubbling, but no foam. The Tomato Clowns in the 65G seem to like the change as well; they've been laying eggs like crazy!

Oh, and I added a Carbon Reactor into my new system. The water had been pretty clear so I hadn't put much of a priority on it. I went with a BRS Jumbo Reactor. Not running GFO since I'm still dosing N03:p04-X. The reactor is huge so it can hold plenty of carbon, but I think it has some things to be improved upon. Otherwise the water is even more clear now! My water would probably look spotless if I didn't have a Gold Head Sleeper Goby stirring up sand storms all the time.

Also - I spoke with Adam @Battlecorals and asked him to put together a 'hardy' pack of SPS for me. We'll see how it goes! I haven't really ever had issues with Acans, Zoas, Chalices, Favia, etc...but in the past I haven't had the greatest luck with SPS. I'm going to slowly reintroduce myself to them. When I tried SPS last (over a year ago) it seemed like I was dealing with water parameter issues (alk swings and high nitrates) so they didn't fair well.

Hoping for much better luck this time around!
 
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