Closed loop without drilling?

Reefing102

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So I’m thinking of adding a closed loop system to my tank to replace my power heads. Reading, it seems like closed loops are usually drilled in through the bottom of a tank, and also used a lot on larger tanks (not finding much on smaller tanks). That said, I have no plans to tear down my tank to drill it to run the closed loop. So my questions are as follows:

Can you run a closed loop over the top edge of the tank?

My plan for this would be to run the pvc around the top rim (hidden by the rim of the tank since it’s not rimless) and then run 2 lines down the back behind the rock work for flow back there.

Am I completely missing the concept of the closed loop or will my thought work?
 

dkeller22

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I've actually done that exact thing before. My tanks are built into the wall so it was easy to hide the PVC, but yes you can do it. The problem I ran into long term was leaky seals on the external pump. If you can run an internal pump you should be fine.
 

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You need the intake pipe low enough so that you don't end up hearing a sucking sound at high flows. Otherwise there's no requirement to drill bottom and I've seen "closed loop" run from hob overflows. Technically that's not a closed loop I suppose but it can work if you don't want to drill.
 
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Reefing102

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Hmm, it’d have to be external, unless I give it its own sump, which wouldn’t be too hard unless I’m completely under thinking that aspect
 
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Reefing102

Reefing102

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You need the intake pipe low enough so that you don't end up hearing a sucking sound at high flows. Otherwise there's no requirement to drill bottom and I've seen "closed loop" run from hob overflows. Technically that's not a closed loop I suppose but it can work if you don't want to drill.
That shouldn’t be an issue. My tank is 24 inches deep so I should be covered there
 

Quietman

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So you're supplying from the sump drain or another source in tank? If from sump getting high enough flows for high demand livestock can be challenging (same for that hob). But if low to moderate flow is needed should be fine. Side note...if you haven't looked at the sea-swirl devices you should. Multi-directional flow to make most of limited flow rate. Good luck.
 

Timfish

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Should work great. Main reason for a closed loop as I see it is to increase water flow without having to increase the size of the return pump (or reduce the size of the return pump) and hide the pump unlike wavemakers or power heads which are almost always seen.
 

dkeller22

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I built my intake pipe by running a vertical PVC down a back corner with a cap on the end. I drilled lots of small holes several inches below the water line and above the bottom. I make the hole small enough to not suck up fish
 

WVNed

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I did one on a 20L.
114_1475-M.jpg

But in the end I found running 2 Maxijet 1200s with random flow generators was simpler and worked better.
t5-M.jpg
 
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Reefing102

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Here’s kind of what I was thinking:

B975F21A-1F38-499A-9BF6-E433B2D69744.jpeg
983193C7-E1F0-4E4F-866E-62E647897DC4.jpeg


ETA: My tank is 65 gallon with corner overflow. 36x18x24 with center brace
 
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Reefing102

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My issue is I think I’ll lose too much flow by the end of the spray bar
 
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Reefing102

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I did one on a 20L.
114_1475-M.jpg

But in the end I found running 2 Maxijet 1200s with random flow generators was simpler and worked better.
t5-M.jpg
That’s what’s worrying me is I may be better off with what I already have
 

dkeller22

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If your intake is larger than the output lines the pressure should be equal across the spray bar. I used LockLine for the outputs. You will need a pump that has enough pressure at head height to move whatever water you are looking to move.
 

SDK

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How big is your tank?

To my eyes all of that PVC running down the back is going to be much more visible than a powerhead. I am setting up a 90 with a large Gyre, and I tucked a small but powerful Nero 5 in the bottom back corner to put some flow behind the rocks. It's also app controllable so I can set up a healthy motion back there that keeps detritus from settling, but does not get too strong...
 

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I made it work. But had several strong flows pointing at certain places in the tank. The pump kept ingesting stuff as well.
After adding random flow generators and a filter to protect the pump I ended up with a bunch of stuff on the tank that was ugly.
I stuck the RFGs on Maxijets and went on with my reefing.
 

dkeller22

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To my eyes all of that PVC running down the back is going to be much more visible than a powerhead. I am setting up a 90 with a large Gyre, and I tucked a small but powerful Nero 5 in the bottom back corner to put some flow behind the rocks. It's also app controllable so I can set up a healthy motion back there that keeps detritus from settling, but does not get too strong..
All of this being said when I rebooted the tanks last March I ripped out the closed loops and went with MP40s and Gyre powerheads. They are more controllable, not as obvious, and won't leak under the tanks years from now. Things have changed in the last 10 years so I dumped the closed loop idea.
 
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Reefing102

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How big is your tank?

To my eyes all of that PVC running down the back is going to be much more visible than a powerhead. I am setting up a 90 with a large Gyre, and I tucked a small but powerful Nero 5 in the bottom back corner to put some flow behind the rocks. It's also app controllable so I can set up a healthy motion back there that keeps detritus from settling, but does not get too strong...
The tank is a 65 gallon. The tank is solid back, but as far as in tank, was thinking black PVC to blend.

Right now, I have a Neptune WAV, Jebao SW8, and 2 Korallia Nanos. The WAV is just massive, the nanos are just there (they don’t do much in the grand scheme of things). And the Jebao isn’t bad but yea
 
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Reefing102

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I’m also thinking, with the amount of money for a quality pump and plumbing and what not, might be just as cheap to get a vortech
 

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