Clove Polyps - salvageable?

[chaserdogg01]

Hi all,

I got these lemon laser clove polyps last Wednesday and they have yet to open up. Don’t think they’re looking too great but never had them so wasn’t sure what to expect. The GSP, toadstool, Xenia and ricordea I got in same order are all doing great so not sure if it was just a bad frag or what. Please advise, really want to save it!

Thank you!

 

[Lelegance]

Gonna need more info. Light, flow, salinity, temp, and parameters. That coral is simply closed because it is unhappy with conditions, and is for sure salvageable. But it will deteriorate over time if you do not solve the issue, so don’t brush it off or procrastinate.

 

[chaserdogg01]

Gonna need more info. Light, flow, salinity, temp, and parameters. That coral is simply closed because it is unhappy with conditions, and is for sure salvageable. But it will deteriorate over time if you do not solve the issue, so don’t brush it off or procrastinate.

Hi lele, here’s the info on the tank:

Lighting - 2 Wills lights (WILLS Full Spectrum Aquarium Light (165W/Black)) - these are set to 4/10 on blue light and 1/10 white light

Flow - after these seemed to getting too much direct flow, I removed the power head that was the primary culprit, but I have two power headed blasting the surface, one in the back left of the tank and the return valve from the canister. The large powerhead on the right has been removed since the pic I have attached.

Salinity is 35 PPT (using instant ocean reef crystals and pre mixing salt with RODI 24 hours ahead of water change)

Temp is steady at 77/78 degrees.

Parameters are as follows:
Nitrates 5-10
Calcium 485
Alk 1200
Mag 1200 (salifert tests for all but phos)
Phosphates 34 ppb (ultra low range Hanna)

Thank you!!

 

[BristleWormHater]

Hi lele, here’s the info on the tank:

Lighting - 2 Wills lights (WILLS Full Spectrum Aquarium Light (165W/Black)) - these are set to 4/10 on blue light and 1/10 white light

Flow - after these seemed to getting too much direct flow, I removed the power head that was the primary culprit, but I have two power headed blasting the surface, one in the back left of the tank and the return valve from the canister. The large powerhead on the right has been removed since the pic I have attached.

Salinity is 35 PPT (using instant ocean reef crystals and pre mixing salt with RODI 24 hours ahead of water change)

Temp is steady at 77/78 degrees.

Parameters are as follows:
Nitrates 5-10
Calcium 485
Alk 1200
Mag 1200 (salifert tests for all but phos)
Phosphates 34 ppb (ultra low range Hanna)

Thank you!!

What's your alk?
You said 1200, what unit of measurement is that in?
Standard in the hobby is dkh, acceptable range is 6.5-12dkh, optimal is 8-11dkh.
If you are testing in ppm, then 1200ppm alk is 67dkh, I dont think that is right, but if it is that is certainly the cause of your issue.
I think the polyps are certainly salvagable, they dont look terrible, just not open.

 

[chaserdogg01]

Hi lele, here’s the info on the tank:

Lighting - 2 Wills lights (WILLS Full Spectrum Aquarium Light (165W/Black)) - these are set to 4/10 on blue light and 1/10 white light

Flow - after these seemed to getting too much direct flow, I removed the power head that was the primary culprit, but I have two power headed blasting the surface, one in the back left of the tank and the return valve from the canister. The large powerhead on the right has been removed since the pic I have attached.

Salinity is 35 PPT (using instant ocean reef crystals and pre mixing salt with RODI 24 hours ahead of water change)

Temp is steady at 77/78 degrees.

Parameters are as follows:
Nitrates 5-10
Calcium 485
Alk 1200
Mag 1200 (salifert tests for all but phos)
Phosphates 34 ppb (ultra low range Hanna)

Thank you!!

What's your alk?
You said 1200, what unit of measurement is that in?
Standard in the hobby is dkh, acceptable range is 6.5-12dkh, optimal is 8-11dkh.
If you are testing in ppm, then 1200ppm alk is 67dkh, I dont think that is right, but if it is that is certainly the cause of your issue.
I think the polyps are certainly salvagable, they dont look terrible, just not open.

Whoops, that was a mistake. My alk is 8.7 dkh. Accidentally doubled up with that mag number.

 

[chaserdogg01]

Hi lele, here’s the info on the tank:

Lighting - 2 Wills lights (WILLS Full Spectrum Aquarium Light (165W/Black)) - these are set to 4/10 on blue light and 1/10 white light

Flow - after these seemed to getting too much direct flow, I removed the power head that was the primary culprit, but I have two power headed blasting the surface, one in the back left of the tank and the return valve from the canister. The large powerhead on the right has been removed since the pic I have attached.

Salinity is 35 PPT (using instant ocean reef crystals and pre mixing salt with RODI 24 hours ahead of water change)

Temp is steady at 77/78 degrees.

Parameters are as follows:
Nitrates 5-10
Calcium 485
Alk 1200
Mag 1200 (salifert tests for all but phos)
Phosphates 34 ppb (ultra low range Hanna)

Thank you!!

What's your alk?
You said 1200, what unit of measurement is that in?
Standard in the hobby is dkh, acceptable range is 6.5-12dkh, optimal is 8-11dkh.
If you are testing in ppm, then 1200ppm alk is 67dkh, I dont think that is right, but if it is that is certainly the cause of your issue.
I think the polyps are certainly salvagable, they dont look terrible, just not open.

Whoops, that was a mistake. My alk is 8.7 dkh. Accidentally doubled up with that mag number.

This is how they looked last Friday when I believe flow was too harsh on them. Just by the side to side, they look to be doing better today.

 

[chaserdogg01]

Hi lele, here’s the info on the tank:

Lighting - 2 Wills lights (WILLS Full Spectrum Aquarium Light (165W/Black)) - these are set to 4/10 on blue light and 1/10 white light

Flow - after these seemed to getting too much direct flow, I removed the power head that was the primary culprit, but I have two power headed blasting the surface, one in the back left of the tank and the return valve from the canister. The large powerhead on the right has been removed since the pic I have attached.

Salinity is 35 PPT (using instant ocean reef crystals and pre mixing salt with RODI 24 hours ahead of water change)

Temp is steady at 77/78 degrees.

Parameters are as follows:
Nitrates 5-10
Calcium 485
Alk 1200
Mag 1200 (salifert tests for all but phos)
Phosphates 34 ppb (ultra low range Hanna)

Thank you!!

What's your alk?
You said 1200, what unit of measurement is that in?
Standard in the hobby is dkh, acceptable range is 6.5-12dkh, optimal is 8-11dkh.
If you are testing in ppm, then 1200ppm alk is 67dkh, I dont think that is right, but if it is that is certainly the cause of your issue.
I think the polyps are certainly salvagable, they dont look terrible, just not open.

Whoops, that was a mistake. My alk is 8.7 dkh. Accidentally doubled up with that mag number.

This is how they looked last Friday when I believe flow was too harsh on them. Just by the side to side, they look to be doing better today.

Hi everybody, quick morning update and hopefully a video to help understand flow and situation a bit better. Please advise, thank you!
View attachment 20251120_091146_343E936B-06E9-4E30-99EB-F4035A6AA052.mov

 

[luffy]

Hi lele, here’s the info on the tank:

Lighting - 2 Wills lights (WILLS Full Spectrum Aquarium Light (165W/Black)) - these are set to 4/10 on blue light and 1/10 white light

Flow - after these seemed to getting too much direct flow, I removed the power head that was the primary culprit, but I have two power headed blasting the surface, one in the back left of the tank and the return valve from the canister. The large powerhead on the right has been removed since the pic I have attached.

Salinity is 35 PPT (using instant ocean reef crystals and pre mixing salt with RODI 24 hours ahead of water change)

Temp is steady at 77/78 degrees.

Parameters are as follows:
Nitrates 5-10
Calcium 485
Alk 1200
Mag 1200 (salifert tests for all but phos)
Phosphates 34 ppb (ultra low range Hanna)

Thank you!!

What's your alk?
You said 1200, what unit of measurement is that in?
Standard in the hobby is dkh, acceptable range is 6.5-12dkh, optimal is 8-11dkh.
If you are testing in ppm, then 1200ppm alk is 67dkh, I dont think that is right, but if it is that is certainly the cause of your issue.
I think the polyps are certainly salvagable, they dont look terrible, just not open.

Whoops, that was a mistake. My alk is 8.7 dkh. Accidentally doubled up with that mag number.

This is how they looked last Friday when I believe flow was too harsh on them. Just by the side to side, they look to be doing better today.

Hi everybody, quick morning update and hopefully a video to help understand flow and situation a bit better. Please advise, thank you!
View attachment 20251120_091146_343E936B-06E9-4E30-99EB-F4035A6AA052.mov

The flow is only on the top of your water? Ive heard that its also good to have flow going to the bottom of your sand bed, maybe that can help, especially that soft anemone would like you have movement.

 

[chaserdogg01]

Hi lele, here’s the info on the tank:

Lighting - 2 Wills lights (WILLS Full Spectrum Aquarium Light (165W/Black)) - these are set to 4/10 on blue light and 1/10 white light

Flow - after these seemed to getting too much direct flow, I removed the power head that was the primary culprit, but I have two power headed blasting the surface, one in the back left of the tank and the return valve from the canister. The large powerhead on the right has been removed since the pic I have attached.

Salinity is 35 PPT (using instant ocean reef crystals and pre mixing salt with RODI 24 hours ahead of water change)

Temp is steady at 77/78 degrees.

Parameters are as follows:
Nitrates 5-10
Calcium 485
Alk 1200
Mag 1200 (salifert tests for all but phos)
Phosphates 34 ppb (ultra low range Hanna)

Thank you!!

What's your alk?
You said 1200, what unit of measurement is that in?
Standard in the hobby is dkh, acceptable range is 6.5-12dkh, optimal is 8-11dkh.
If you are testing in ppm, then 1200ppm alk is 67dkh, I dont think that is right, but if it is that is certainly the cause of your issue.
I think the polyps are certainly salvagable, they dont look terrible, just not open.

Whoops, that was a mistake. My alk is 8.7 dkh. Accidentally doubled up with that mag number.

This is how they looked last Friday when I believe flow was too harsh on them. Just by the side to side, they look to be doing better today.

Hi everybody, quick morning update and hopefully a video to help understand flow and situation a bit better. Please advise, thank you!
View attachment 20251120_091146_343E936B-06E9-4E30-99EB-F4035A6AA052.mov

The flow is only on the top of your water? Ive heard that its also good to have flow going to the bottom of your sand bed, maybe that can help, especially that soft anemone would like you have movement.

I previously had a powerhead that was targeting more of the lower end and I think that caused a lot of the damage. I believe the toadstool and GSP are getting sufficient flow from the return on my canister filter and dispersed flows from the surface.

 

[BryanM]

The only thing I'm wondering is if you have enough light. It is hard to tell but the tank looks dark to me, and I am not really familiar with those lights.

 

[chaserdogg01]

The only thing I'm wondering is if you have enough light. It is hard to tell but the tank looks dark to me, and I am not really familiar with those lights.

Should i turn up the white or blue light ratio? They go up to 10 and are currently at 4/10 for blue, 1/10 for white spectrum.

 

[BryanM]

Should i turn up the white or blue light ratio? They go up to 10 and are currently at 4/10 for blue, 1/10 for white spectrum.

I have a hard time saying since I'm really not familiar with the light.

Your full tank shot pic in this thread looks quite dim though. If that's pretty accurate in real life, then I'd bump up both +1, re-evaluate, but if I was going to guess, you might end up at 7/10 blue and 3/10 white. I'd make this over a week or two, not just one big jump.

 

[chaserdogg01]

I have a hard time saying since I'm really not familiar with the light.

Your full tank shot pic in this thread looks quite dim though. If that's pretty accurate in real life, then I'd bump up both +1, re-evaluate, but if I was going to guess, you might end up at 7/10 blue and 3/10 white. I'd make this over a week or two, not just one big jump.

It is a bit brighter in person for sure, just the angle that i took the picture at. Don't think it would hurt to turn up slightly and see if there is a positive impact since i have had no luck doing what I am currently doing.

 

[Lelegance]

Whats the wattage on those lights? That can give a good idea with the settings to reccomend.

 

[chaserdogg01]

Whats the wattage on those lights? That can give a good idea with the settings to reccomend.

165 watts and i have one on each side of the 75 gallon frame/bracket with a glass top to hold them up.

 

[Lelegance]

It could be even a little much lighting then. I have a 50 watt put on 30% blues 6% whites for 16” depth, getting around 80-100 par all around. Great for most LPS and softies. I would say that 2x 165 watts would do double that with your tank, and at those settings. You can rent a par meter from an lfs if you want to check, which I would personally do to estimate how much par you’re getting in areas, and so you can adjust for what you want to keep. Usually its 20$ to rent one, However those coral do well in most light. If you’re planning on keeping SPS, and want to keep low light coral in higher SPS par, you should put any low light coral into a darker area in your tank, and slowly move them to lighter parts until its where you want it. Softies can acclimate to almost any par, just give them a bit of time to do so.

So, if you dont see improvement in a day or so, putting it in a low light area can help. Also check at night to see if the coral opens under any moonlight you may have, thats a clear sign it needs less light.

Knowing how you cycled the tank and how old it is can help as well, all those bacterias that come with an established tank make the coral much happier and water more stable.

 

[chaserdogg01]

It could be even a little much lighting then. I have a 50 watt put on 30% blues 6% whites for 16” depth, getting around 80-100 par all around. Great for most LPS and softies. I would say that 2x 165 watts would do double that with your tank, and at those settings. You can rent a par meter from an lfs if you want to check, which I would personally do to estimate how much par you’re getting in areas, and so you can adjust for what you want to keep. Usually its 20$ to rent one, However those coral do well in most light. If you’re planning on keeping SPS, and want to keep low light coral in higher SPS par, you should put any low light coral into a darker area in your tank, and slowly move them to lighter parts until its where you want it. Softies can acclimate to almost any par, just give them a bit of time to do so.

So, if you dont see improvement in a day or so, putting it in a low light area can help. Also check at night to see if the coral opens under any moonlight you may have, thats a clear sign it needs less light.

Knowing how you cycled the tank and how old it is can help as well, all those bacterias that come with an established tank make the coral much happier and water more stable.

I live in an area that is not too familiar with the salt water side of the hobby, so not sure they would have par meters readily rentable - i can certainly call and inquire though!

Unfortunately this is an office tank so only see them in the morning. I run lights from 8 AM - 4 PM so i do see them without lights for about an hour a day and they don't look much better without it.

Tank is about 7 months old, was cycled with 7 days of aquavitro seed then added my two clowns. Weekly 10% water changes since I got the tank up and running.

 

[Lelegance]

It could be even a little much lighting then. I have a 50 watt put on 30% blues 6% whites for 16” depth, getting around 80-100 par all around. Great for most LPS and softies. I would say that 2x 165 watts would do double that with your tank, and at those settings. You can rent a par meter from an lfs if you want to check, which I would personally do to estimate how much par you’re getting in areas, and so you can adjust for what you want to keep. Usually its 20$ to rent one, However those coral do well in most light. If you’re planning on keeping SPS, and want to keep low light coral in higher SPS par, you should put any low light coral into a darker area in your tank, and slowly move them to lighter parts until its where you want it. Softies can acclimate to almost any par, just give them a bit of time to do so.

So, if you dont see improvement in a day or so, putting it in a low light area can help. Also check at night to see if the coral opens under any moonlight you may have, thats a clear sign it needs less light.

Knowing how you cycled the tank and how old it is can help as well, all those bacterias that come with an established tank make the coral much happier and water more stable.

I live in an area that is not too familiar with the salt water side of the hobby, so not sure they would have par meters readily rentable - i can certainly call and inquire though!

Unfortunately this is an office tank so only see them in the morning. I run lights from 8 AM - 4 PM so i do see them without lights for about an hour a day and they don't look much better without it.

Tank is about 7 months old, was cycled with 7 days of aquavitro seed then added my two clowns. Weekly 10% water changes since I got the tank up and running.

That all looks great. Moving the coral to a lower light area light area and observing any changes may help. No changes, then it might be another issue with the tank. If the other coral are fine, I would assume its either not happy with light, or just moody. Your parameters are great.

 

[chaserdogg01]

That all looks great. Moving the coral to a lower light area light area and observing any changes may help. No changes, then it might be another issue with the tank. If the other coral are fine, I would assume its either not happy with light, or just moody. Your parameters are great.

Okay thank you! I'm going to run parameters tonight after work and ill try pushing the clove polyps to a more shaded area in the same flow. Everybody else is doing great, really just this clove polyp being stubborn. Will report back with refreshed parameters tonight!

 

[chaserdogg01]

That all looks great. Moving the coral to a lower light area light area and observing any changes may help. No changes, then it might be another issue with the tank. If the other coral are fine, I would assume its either not happy with light, or just moody. Your parameters are great.

Okay thank you! I'm going to run parameters tonight after work and ill try pushing the clove polyps to a more shaded area in the same flow. Everybody else is doing great, really just this clove polyp being stubborn. Will report back with refreshed parameters tonight!

Okay ran parameters just now. Didn’t have time for phosphates before I left office so will do tomorrow morning.

Alk - 7.7
Mag - 1200
Nitrate - 10-25 (but certainly closer in color to 10, would estimate 15)
pH - 8-8.15
Salinity - 35 PPT
Calcium - 450

Also moved it to a lower flow region of tank as have been seeing that they do not like flow at all and the neighboring GSP and toadstool have a notable amount of flow when the UV filter kicks on from 12-6 each day. Will see how they like the new zone come morning!