Clown Rubbing Face

[DownUnderAqua]

Hey all,

I have clowns in a QT and it’s day 3 only monitoring… Today after a feed I noticed one has started rubbing it’s face occasionally (see Video) is this a cause for concern?

Nothing visible on the body, no heavy breathing or anything untoward. They have been darting around more than usual, not sure if that’s random or something else to monitor.

TIA

 

[threebuoys]

The flashing exhibited by the clown is typical of gill flukes.

The best treatment for flukes is prazipro.

You indicated the clown is in day 3 of QT. Have you already started copper treatment, or is it only observation now?

Any sign of white spots that might indicate either crypto or velvet?

If you have not started copper and if no sign of crypto or velvet, I would start prazipro treatment since flukes are likely. Be sure to use extra aeration. After the first dose, change 25 % of water on day 8/9 and redose. Then change 25 % of water after 48 hours.

If you see any sign of crypto or velvet while dosing prazipro, you will need to quickly begin the copper protocol. Normally, we avoid treating for flukes and crypto simultaneously, so you may need to accelerate the first water change to dilute the prazi, then do the copper treatment, then after 30 days re-start the prazi treatment.

 

[DownUnderAqua]

The flashing exhibited by the clown is typical of gill flukes.

The best treatment for flukes is prazipro.

You indicated the clown is in day 3 of QT. Have you already started copper treatment, or is it only observation now?

Any sign of white spots that might indicate either crypto or velvet?

If you have not started copper and if no sign of crypto or velvet, I would start prazipro treatment since flukes are likely. Be sure to use extra aeration. After the first dose, change 25 % of water on day 8/9 and redose. Then change 25 % of water after 48 hours.

If you see any sign of crypto or velvet while dosing prazipro, you will need to quickly begin the copper protocol. Normally, we avoid treating for flukes and crypto simultaneously, so you may need to accelerate the first water change to dilute the prazi, then do the copper treatment, then after 30 days re-start the prazi treatment.

Thanks for that, after posting I’d done a little more research and was thinking we’re along the lines of fluke.

it’s observation for now, haven’t started copper was hoping I could avoid it on how the fish were going.

The one part I’m unsure of is seeing it’s in a QT I seem to be needing to do a water change every 2 days… it’s end of day 3 and ammonia is around 0.05 on alert badge.

How does this affect the Prazi dosing schedule you suggest?

There are no visible signs of either of them, apart from this today the bodies look fine.

thanks again!

 

[threebuoys]

Thanks for that, after posting I’d done a little more research and was thinking we’re along the lines of fluke.

it’s observation for now, haven’t started copper was hoping I could avoid it on how the fish were going.

The one part I’m unsure of is seeing it’s in a QT I seem to be needing to do a water change every 2 days… it’s end of day 3 and ammonia is around 0.05 on alert badge.

How does this affect the Prazi dosing schedule you suggest?

There are no visible signs of either of them, apart from this today the bodies look fine.

thanks again!

If you change water, re-dose prazi proportional to the amount of water you remove, but yo do not need to restart the 8/9 day clock.

Ammonia can be a problem in a QT if an established cycled filtration is not in place.

You should consider buying an ammonia test kit, something other than API. Perhaps Salifert or Red Sea. I find them easier to use than Seachem, and more accurate than API. The badge is a good indicator, but when I've used it, I've always felt I needed to double check with an "instant" read manual test.

 

[DownUnderAqua]

If you change water, re-dose prazi proportional to the amount of water you remove, but yo do not need to restart the 8/9 day clock.

Ammonia can be a problem in a QT if an established cycled filtration is not in place.

You should consider buying an ammonia test kit, something other than API. Perhaps Salifert or Red Sea. I find them easier to use than Seachem, and more accurate than API. The badge is a good indicator, but when I've used it, I've always felt I needed to double check with an "instant" read manual test.

Okay great, can do that. My main concern was I’d be pulling it out, then dosing too much. I’ll be sure to work it out correctly.

Thank you again, I’ll be sure to keep you updated.

These are my first set of fish for my DT which is pretty much cycled. I wanted to get the fish threw the quarantine close to when the tank would be ready. Just my luck I’ll run into some issues from the get go!

I’ve got a RedSea test kit, it was around 0.05-0.08 a few hrs ago. Will see where it rests in about 8hrs and do a water change when I’m home.