Clownfish has strange white markings and not eating.

[Reef_Ninjas]

Hey guys,

New reefer here and I just bought a clownfish about two/three weeks ago.

Last week he stopped eating for two days and I gave him a freshwater bath plus dosed the tank with prazi. He ate the next day but went back to not eating 24 hours later and then I saw him poop white.

I gave him another freshwater bath Sunday which didn’t seem to help as he is still not eating and breathing heavily. He is mostly swimming in the same spot all day but has started to venture around the tank.

He also has these weird markings on his belly area. Any help would be appreciated.

https://youtube.com/shorts/1Et4sFtQi58?feature=share

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hey guys,

New reefer here and I just bought a clownfish about two/three weeks ago.

Last week he stopped eating for two days and I gave him a freshwater bath plus dosed the tank with prazi. He ate the next day but went back to not eating 24 hours later and then I saw him poop white.

I gave him another freshwater bath Sunday which didn’t seem to help as he is still not eating and breathing heavily. He is mostly swimming in the same spot all day but has started to venture around the tank.

He also has these weird markings on his belly area. Any help would be appreciated.

https://youtube.com/shorts/1Et4sFtQi58?feature=share

Please post a couple of still pics under white lighting. Video does not play

 

[Reef_Ninjas]

Video should work now as I accidentally had it on private. Also as an update, he is a little more active today and actually bit some mysis that is soaked in kanaplex w/ focus. He spit it out and immediately started shaking his head like a toddle who ate something sour.

 

[Ben.QLD2]

The video is still on private sorry, and that photo is awful. Definitely need better images and the video.

 

[Reef_Ninjas]

January 17, 2023

youtube.com

100% should work now.

 

[Ben.QLD2]

It works, but the quality isn't great. I can't make out the respiration rate etc.

I can see a white/cream coloured blotches which may be mucous.

If it is mucous build up, and because it is a recently acquired clownfish, my mind turns to brooklynella.

Are there any tankmates? Did you quarantine?

If we can get better images/videos to confirm brooklynella then I would immediately move it to a hospital/quarantine tank and treat with formalin.

 

[Reef_Ninjas]

It works, but the quality isn't great. I can't make out the respiration rate etc.

I can see a white/cream coloured blotches which may be mucous.

If it is mucous build up, and because it is a recently acquired clownfish, my mind turns to brooklynella.

Are there any tankmates? Did you quarantine?

If we can get better images/videos to confirm brooklynella then I would immediately move it to a hospital/quarantine tank and treat with formalin.

Yes, I also purchased a midnight clown, a White tail brisletooth, leopard wrasse, christmas wrasse as well. There was already a hippo tang, firefish, and watchmen gobies in the tank. None of these fish are showing any signs of illness.

I did however lose an angel fish last week after the clownfish symptoms started. I believe this may have been related to swimmers bladder as he was swimming around at a downward angle for about a week but still eating. One day he stopped and the next morning was dead.

In this original group I also purchased a naso tang which never really began eating and eventually died. I did not QT but i did use a two part dip before adding them to the display.

I will work on getting a better video as its hard to show up clear.

 

[Reef_Ninjas]

It works, but the quality isn't great. I can't make out the respiration rate etc.

I can see a white/cream coloured blotches which may be mucous.

If it is mucous build up, and because it is a recently acquired clownfish, my mind turns to brooklynella.

Are there any tankmates? Did you quarantine?

If we can get better images/videos to confirm brooklynella then I would immediately move it to a hospital/quarantine tank and treat with formalin.

Ok here is the best video I can get

 

[Ben.QLD2]

That fish has brooklynella.

You will need to treat it, and all of the other fish too, in a separate tank/tub.

The tank will need to be fallow (no fish) for about 6 weeks.

Read this -

Brooklynella

Brooklynella hostilis (updated 6-9-2023) What You Need To Know: * This is most often seen with clownfish, but it can afflict other fish (usually in the gills) as well. When a clownfish has Brook, the skin will appear to be peeling or sloughing off. Which is actually excess white mucous coming...

humble.fish

 

[Reef_Ninjas]

That fish has brooklynella.

You will need to treat it, and all of the other fish too, in a separate tank/tub.

The tank will need to be fallow (no fish) for about 6 weeks.

Read this -

Brooklynella

Brooklynella hostilis (updated 6-9-2023) What You Need To Know: * This is most often seen with clownfish, but it can afflict other fish (usually in the gills) as well. When a clownfish has Brook, the skin will appear to be peeling or sloughing off. Which is actually excess white mucous coming...

humble.fish

What about my inverts and coral? They should all be fine to stay in the tank right?

 

[Ben.QLD2]

Inverts cannot contract the disease, but the organism can live on them until it dies out, hence the fallow period.

 

[Ben.QLD2]

After you get over this hurdle I would strongly recommend a quarantine regime for new additions. Considering your DT must remain fallow for 6 weeks, it would be wise to implement a full quarantine regime for these fish to cover all common infectious diseases.

How To - Quarantine

How to Setup a Quarantine Tank (updated 4-6-2023) The following are the essentials: Aquarium (10-30 gallons seems to work for most people. A larger QT lets you house more fish and gives you more wiggle room when it comes to ammonia. A smaller QT is cheaper, easier to maintain and can be...

humble.fish

 

[vetteguy53081]

What about my inverts and coral? They should all be fine to stay in the tank right?

Inverts and coral can stay in display and the whole tank does not need to be dumped. Brooklynella hostillis (a pathogen) generally is confined to a given fish. If any other do not show signs- Keep an eye on them.
The most significant sign is the amount of slime on its body. The thick mucus on its body is a second sign which is noticeable on the fish. This mucus generally starts at the facial area as well as gills and spreads across the body producing lesions as it progresses often confused with ich and can turn into secondary bacteria. Other symptoms will be lethargic behavior, refusing to eat and heavy breathing from the mucus.
Typical treatment is a formalin solution is mixed with in a separate container with either fresh or saltwater. Start with a quick dip in the formalin at a higher concentration then performing treatment in a prolonged bath of formalin base at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank. The longer the fish are exposed to the formalin treatment the more effective it will be at eliminating this issue.
If a formalin solution is not available for immediate use, temporary relief can be achieved by giving the fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure (more effective) or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.
With the advanced stage of this- I recommend immediate quarantine of all inhabitants and leaving display without fish for 4-6 weeks.
A quarantine system if you dont have one can be as simple as a starter tank kit from walmart which has most of the essentials

 

[Reef_Ninjas]

After you get over this hurdle I would strongly recommend a quarantine regime for new additions. Considering your DT must remain fallow for 6 weeks, it would be wise to implement a full quarantine regime for these fish to cover all common infectious diseases.

How To - Quarantine

How to Setup a Quarantine Tank (updated 4-6-2023) The following are the essentials: Aquarium (10-30 gallons seems to work for most people. A larger QT lets you house more fish and gives you more wiggle room when it comes to ammonia. A smaller QT is cheaper, easier to maintain and can be...

humble.fish

I appreciate your feedback. I have an old 25 gallon freshwater tank just sitting around that I’m thinking about using for the QT. I’m going to have to break my DT down to get all the gobies out. I’m assuming pistol shrimps will be ok to leave.

Also considering adding a uv. I have formalin already and will pick up metroplex tomorrow.

 

[Ben.QLD2]

Shrimp will be fine left in the DT. I like UV sterilisers, just don't expect miracles with them. Good luck with your treatment.

 

[Reef_Ninjas]

Inverts and coral can stay in display and the whole tank does not need to be dumped. Brooklynella hostillis (a pathogen) generally is confined to a given fish. If any other do not show signs- Keep an eye on them.
The most significant sign is the amount of slime on its body. The thick mucus on its body is a second sign which is noticeable on the fish. This mucus generally starts at the facial area as well as gills and spreads across the body producing lesions as it progresses often confused with ich and can turn into secondary bacteria. Other symptoms will be lethargic behavior, refusing to eat and heavy breathing from the mucus.
Typical treatment is a formalin solution is mixed with in a separate container with either fresh or saltwater. Start with a quick dip in the formalin at a higher concentration then performing treatment in a prolonged bath of formalin base at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank. The longer the fish are exposed to the formalin treatment the more effective it will be at eliminating this issue.
If a formalin solution is not available for immediate use, temporary relief can be achieved by giving the fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure (more effective) or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.
With the advanced stage of this- I recommend immediate quarantine of all inhabitants and leaving display without fish for 4-6 weeks.
A quarantine system if you dont have one can be as simple as a starter tank kit from walmart which has most of the essentials

Shrimp will be fine left in the DT. I like UV sterilisers, just don't expect miracles with them. Good luck with your treatment.

So the clown died this morning and I took him by my fish store and they confirmed brook infection. The thin that puzzled me is they told me to set my QT up and run copper as this is the only way to treat the fish in this scenario.

What are your opinions on this matter? I do have wrasse as well.

 

[Ben.QLD2]

Copper won't treat brooklynella.

 

[vetteguy53081]

So the clown died this morning and I took him by my fish store and they confirmed brook infection. The thin that puzzled me is they told me to set my QT up and run copper as this is the only way to treat the fish in this scenario.

What are your opinions on this matter? I do have wrasse as well.

Sorry to hear and UV will do nothing for this- save your money

 

[vetteguy53081]

So the clown died this morning and I took him by my fish store and they confirmed brook infection. The thin that puzzled me is they told me to set my QT up and run copper as this is the only way to treat the fish in this scenario.

What are your opinions on this matter? I do have wrasse as well.

Read what I stated above- Formalin or acriflavine is the cure- Copper is for parasitical issues
May be time to seek a different LFS

 

[Reef_Ninjas]

Read what I stated above- Formalin or acriflavine is the cure- Copper is for parasitical issues
May be time to seek a different LFS

Ok, so I have formalin and I’m going to do the 45 minute dip on the rest of the fish in the aquarium, then move them to a quarantine tank where I will dose the metro for 2 weeks. I’ll hold on to the copper and Hanna checker I bought in case I need it for the future.