I set out to check for rusting components just incase even though everything I have is new and get cleaned every couple of months. I found the screws on my skimz skimmer looking like this...
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
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I set out to check for rusting components just incase even though everything I have is new and get cleaned every couple of months. I found the screws on my skimz skimmer looking like this...
Thoughts?
i run my kessil 100% and 4 t5 from aquatic life for 11 hrs a day and all my corals including zoas and lps love itNot to stir the pot but if I ran my leds at 100% all my sps would be dead as well. I run a max of 40% intensity led with my t5 bulbs for only 3 hrs. The rest is ramp up/down.
I know a lot of folks on here are against dry rocks but I personally do not believe that is the issue. I did not cure my dry rocks before my set up at the beginning of January and I had corals in my system 2.5 weeks later. I have not lost a single acro and my system is only a total of 55 gallons. I also have not done a single water change since the tanks has been up and running. My sps is encrusting and growing and coloring up better then when I purchased them from a store. I think everyone here is correct on using a good Rodi unit I know you said ones on the way and im stoked for your. Took me 5 years in this hobby to get my rodi and i cant believe I didn't get it sooner.
My first Monti was going amazing for a while. Growing, coloring up, looking great. Then one day it just changed and went down hill. It looks like garbage now and I expect it will be dead soon.I know a lot of folks on here are against dry rocks but I personally do not believe that is the issue. I did not cure my dry rocks before my set up at the beginning of January and I had corals in my system 2.5 weeks later. I have not lost a single acro and my system is only a total of 55 gallons. I also have not done a single water change since the tanks has been up and running. My sps is encrusting and growing and coloring up better then when I purchased them from a store. I think everyone here is correct on using a good Rodi unit I know you said ones on the way and im stoked for your. Took me 5 years in this hobby to get my rodi and i cant believe I didn't get it sooner.
Yikes, you might consider using Panta Rhei Lith or Triton Detox.
Definitely a couple water changes when the RO/DI gets setup.
My first Monti was going amazing for a while. Growing, coloring up, looking great. Then one day it just changed and went down hill. It looks like garbage now and I expect it will be dead soon.
We need much longer than 2.5 months before considering anything in this hobby a "success."
I may of implied I was having success but I didnt say I was successful or called it a success. Just saying what I have been observing in my own tank. First tank with Dry rock and first tank with my own RODI system. So far no issues with any of my SPS, I think being stable is the key like many others have stated. Iv read many ups and downs with people trying to figure out the zeovits system and how they can make it work for them.
Iv read over this thread the past couple days so sorry if you answered it did you use any bacteria source? I used Microbacter7 on my tank and have been adding a few drops of that a day. Not saying its the answer just curious and I havent see any harm from using it. Did have a bacteria bloom around the 5 day mark of using it but that was probably from me dosing to much.
I'm hoping the rodi is the issue. I tested the rodi water from my lfs with a tds and I was only reading 018-025. The corals have only gotten worse... The Stylo has no tissue left completely white with some polyps left. It's just a mess on there... Here's my slimmer that showed this tissue loss over 2 days..
Only 018-025???? Ask any SPS guy that you see that has a tank of SPS colonies that he grew from frags when he changes the TDS, I bet he will say 001-002 at max. Those levels you are talking about will definitely kill your SPS. It is 100% your cause man
I personally dont even left my second stage DI get to all brown even if its reading 000 at the end, dont want to risk it. For $13 it costs to change a DI is nowhere close to worth having your acros suffer.
You said your LFS uses this same RO/DI and grows good colonies? or he keeps colonies alive enough that he bought till he sells them?
Best I can figure out, they are probably the same thing. The Triton bottle costs way more though so I purchased and have used the Panta Rhei.Great suggestion... Do you have a preference one over the other?
Ahh sorry did not think that was to high... Nope doesn't grow colonies they import them and frag them. That's a good question honestly. I guess the nice ones don't last to long before they are purchased.
Only 018-025???? Ask any SPS guy that you see that has a tank of SPS colonies that he grew from frags when he changes the TDS, I bet he will say 001-002 at max. Those levels you are talking about will definitely kill your SPS. It is 100% your cause man
I personally dont even left my second stage DI get to all brown even if its reading 000 at the end, dont want to risk it. For $13 it costs to change a DI is nowhere close to worth having your acros suffer.
It's hard to say that those TDS numbers are good or bad when we have no idea what is in that reading. I know plenty of successful tanks that use tap water with TDS readings of 300+.
To just make a blanket statement of "any TDS is bad" is incorrect and misleading.
Best practice is definitely a good RODI unit with 0 TDS and what we should all shoot for but again, we have no idea what's in that reading to say it's killing the SPS.
I don't use tap water. Never said I did.Not to be mean or trying to argue just trying to understand, but do you have SPS in your system and they thrive? I would love to see a successful SPS tank that uses tap water.