Corals are dying in new tank

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

I would buy mp40 then. Regarding a copper in the tank, do you know How long should it take to remove it? I can even wait 6 months or longer before i put any corals in, just dont want to start over, any other recommendations? How can i reduce my PO4? Is red sea NoPox any good? What do u think about microbe lift phos out?

Your phosphates are fine. People with super sensitive SPS run ultra low nutrients, but for now your N and P are fine. Soft corals and LPS usually need a decent amount. Since you're going to be working on correcting other things (copper), put any phosphate concern on the back burner.

As for when you can add coral back, someone above suggested adding snails first as a trial since they're also sensitive to copper and much less expensive.

 

[Raynn]

For now I have got one snail, one shrimp and urchin, they all do fine.

 

[shwareefer]

For now I have got one snail, one shrimp and urchin, they all do fine.

The other things you have shouldn't like copper either. Did you measure your PAR? Bubble tips can handle pretty strong light whereas the corals you lost usually prefer lower lighting.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

For now I have got one snail, one shrimp and urchin, they all do fine.

Well, it's possible that copper isn't the problem. If that's the case, I'd focus on keeping calcium, magnesium, and alkalinity in the correct range (I don't think you posted an alk level).

Edit: sorry, you did post alk... blame it on my old eyes, lol

 

[Raynn]

The other things you have shouldn't like copper either. Did you measure your PAR? Bubble tips can handle pretty strong light whereas the corals you lost usually prefer lower lighting.

I dont have a par meter, i dont have a chance to check a par. I want to order Hanna Copper checker, as it should arrive faster than i get my ICP test results.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Well, it's possible that copper isn't the problem. If that's the case, I'd focus on keeping calcium, magnesium, and alkalinity in the correct range (I don't think you posted an alk level).

Edit: sorry, you did post alk... blame it on my old eyes, lol

I'd also recommend letting the tank mature for a few months before adding coral.

 

[exnisstech]

I'm wondering about the copper in the tank. I'm not super knowledgeable but I thought copper would kill inverts such as shrimp? I wonder if there is something else causing the coral deaths

 

[LouisianaReef]

I'm wondering about the copper in the tank. I'm not super knowledgeable but I thought copper would kill inverts such as shrimp? I wonder if there is something else causing the coral deaths

Without testing all perimeters it impossible to know for sure. It even could be them bleaching from over exposure to light. He is running some pretty intense lighting depending on what he is running them at.

 

[Raynn]

I am at work now. Will post my lights settings here on the morning. I Could kill the gsp with the light, as it is places on the highest point of my tank. I use acclimation mode on all three lights, before i add any more corals, i will wait for my ICP test results and for my tank to mature. I just reminded i have done a big mistake before my coral died. My KH was 6dkh, i dosed red sea KH and increased it rapidly to 8.5 dkh - in one day. Could it be a reason why my coral died?

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

I am at work now. Will post my lights settings here on the morning. I Could kill the gsp with the light, as it is places on the highest point of my tank. I use acclimation mode on all three lights, before i add any more corals, i will wait for my ICP test results and for my tank to mature. I just reminded i have done a big mistake before my coral died. My KH was 6dkh, i dosed red sea KH and increased it rapidly to 8.5 dkh - in one day. Could it be a reason why my coral died?

It's possible although the corals you have are pretty hardy... I am leaning toward the lights. Even on acclimation mode, if the end result is too high the coral will not do well. You have a LOT of light for the amount of tank you're covering. You'll probably find you need to run each at 40% or less.

 

[LouisianaReef]

I am at work now. Will post my lights settings here on the morning. I Could kill the gsp with the light, as it is places on the highest point of my tank. I use acclimation mode on all three lights, before i add any more corals, i will wait for my ICP test results and for my tank to mature. I just reminded i have done a big mistake before my coral died. My KH was 6dkh, i dosed red sea KH and increased it rapidly to 8.5 dkh - in one day. Could it be a reason why my coral died?

Any rapid changes can prove to be deadly in a reef tank. That is a big jump, it is possible that was the cause of the death of the corals. I am by no means saying that you should try to maintain ideal conditions in your tank, but I think it's better to have the numbers off a little and have a stable system rather than chasing the ideal numbers and always having swings.

Seems like you have a lot going on with your system. If I were you I would start by testing for copper and dealing with that, turning down your light likely, and shooting to gain system stability before adding anything else to the system.

 

[MnFish1]

Assuming this is copper (which I am not sure) - Copper can be adsorbed onto the surface of the rock - and slowly released over time until an equilibrium is reached. As Cuprisorb takes it out of the water, more copper will be released from the rock - thus it can be a long process - with multiple repetitions of cuprisorb. So ongoing copper tests will probably be required.

The reason I wonder about copper has already been mentioned - which is that other anemones and shrimp, etc - are ok. So - I would get the test kit, and consider water changes (in addition to the cuprisorb - if the level is high). using this calculator can help decide how many and how often: https://www.hamzasreef.com/Contents/Calculators/EffectOfWaterChanges.php

Looking at your corals - it could also be that one of them is releasing a toxin that is harming the others - so I think your addition of carbon is a good idea. Leather corals can release terpene-like chemicals which can cause corals nearby not to open.

Additionally, all is not lost - the fact that some things are doing well means that the other corals may recover. Hope this helps!

 

[Raynn]

I am going to order Hanna Copper Checker now, I planned water change to be done on monday. I hope everything will get fine in couple of weeks / months.

 

[Raynn]

I am updating my lights settings. Also, i noticed my Coral Beauty has a white lips. Does anyone know what could be a reason of that, and how should I treat her with no QT tank? I am not able to take a picture of it, as she is hiding somewhere in rocks, as soon as I see her, I will upload a pictures.

 

[Raynn]

Hi, my Hanna Copper Checker just arrived.
Quick tests, and it showing - 0.23 of copper. I placed Cuprisorb in my sock, and polyfilter in my sump. Is there anything else i can do to remove the copper?

 

[shwareefer]

See this thread.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/how-to-remove-copper-from-dt.326316/

Here's a quote you may not like:

Before Copper Removal:
Remove most/all rock used in the copper treatment. Sand (if applicable) can stay. Equipment and everything else is fine.

Step 1) giant water change (85-90%)
Step 2) add cuprisorb, carbon, and polyfiber pads
Step 3) replace poly fiber pad after 3-4 days. I run it attached to powerhead for max exposure/flow
Step 4) wait a week, giant water change again.
Step 5) replace all media, wait another week
Step 6) giant water change again. Leave media in for 1-2 more weeks.
Step 7) Test after one week. If not zero, repeat large water change and replace all media.
Step 8) Don't add coral or inverts back until after 3 consecutive days testing twice per day of 0 copper readings. I would recommend using more than one brand of copper test to confirm.

 

[Raynn]

Thank you mate, I will do water change tomorrow.