Culturing Tigger-pods: Doing everything wrong to get it right

philosophile

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Just wanted to share how I’ve finally been successful at culturing Tigger-pods.

I had first started trying to culture them in a small vessel, which was prone to bacterial blooms and spillage. So I tried a 2 liter bottle, with similar results, a bacterial bloom killing off most of my pods.

It’s about then I discovered that people were culturing Tigger pods outside, in buckets. So, one last try, and I’ve finally found success!

So here’s how to do it:

First start with a water change from your main tank. Fill a 5g bucket with your water change. Don’t fill it to the top, leave some room for water displacement. Add to your bucket some rock and rubble. Don’t worry if it’s dry rock, or if it hasn’t been cycled. If there is still room in your bucket, throw in some tap water that has been dechlorinated. Don’t waste your RODI for this.

Now you can do one of a few things at this point: 1, add some fish food. 2. Add phyto. 3. Add F2 fertilizer. I did both 2 and 3. Take this bucket and leave it outside in the sun for about two weeks. It should look pretty grungy and have hair algae everywhere. This is good. If your outside temp is in excess of 95F, you might want to consider doing this in partial shade, or use a larger volume of water.

Replace evaporate with dechlorinated tap. If you have hair algae in your tank, grab some of it and throw it in your bucket.

Once you have a good amount of hair algae, throw in your tigger pods. Temperature acclimate them if you want, but I didn’t. Add some phyto to turn the water green, and you can barely see the bottom OR add some spirulina. Be frugal with the spirulina though. A little goes a long way. If you go the spirulina route, it’s cheaper. But you’ll probably want to feed sparingly daily, and supplement the feed with a drop of selcon every few days. If you go phyto, you can feed when the water gets clear enough to see the bottom. You can also supplement with pellet or flake food.

In about 10-15 days you should notice an increase in your population. Harvest when you have a population that you’re happy with, or split your culture and have a few backups in case of a crash.

Water changes: You don’t really need to do them very frequently if at all. But if you want to, pour some of your bucket out through a seive and return the pods back to the culture and refresh with some water change water. Try to keep salinity on the lower side to account for evaporation. They can handle salinity from 1.03-1.015 maybe even lower.

Aeration isn’t needed, that’s what the hair algae is for.

Tide pools in CA (where the pods come from) can get pretty cold. Air temps can be down to 40F, and as high as 100F. So if your weather is in those ranges, you might be able to keep your culture outside year round.

Harvesting: you’ll need a seive, or a ton of patience and a baster. A 475 um sieve will easily catch most of the adults. But I would suggest that you get a 1000 um sieve that stacks with it, so that you can filter out things like insects that land and die in the culture. You don’t need to remove them, I just don’t want them going into the DT.

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LiveWire

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Great read! Thank you for sharing. I have done this in the past myself. A little different but the same concept.
 

Mastiffsrule

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Thanks for the write up. Sounds like a fairly easy set up and maintenance.
 
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philosophile

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Yep!

I should add that I havent actually harvested for my tank yet. I've split my culture and I'm waiting to get enough where I can do a daily harvest to feed the tank. or at least that's the hope!
 

sde1500

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I've read people just filling up a big ole brute trash can and culturing them in it outside. No aeration, phyto, anything. Rain and leaves w/e could get in, the tigs just kept on multiplying.
 

502mad

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I’m going to follow as I tried the same thing as you...... glass gallon jars and it never seem to take off. Now just letting them sit in a 10g tank with 2 rigid air lines doing a slow bubble and so far so good. I wonder if it has anything to do with the surface area of the water?
 
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philosophile

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I’m going to follow as I tried the same thing as you...... glass gallon jars and it never seem to take off. Now just letting them sit in a 10g tank with 2 rigid air lines doing a slow bubble and so far so good. I wonder if it has anything to do with the surface area of the water?
Surface area could help with gas exchange, but the algae is doing extra work too. So first and foremost, make sure your culture is growing a ton of hair algae before you start throwing pods in.
 

DxMarinefish

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Excellent writeup.

I have a similar setup as follows as an experiment to see which produces the most tig pods:

I use two 30 ltr storage plastic tubs from Asda. Filled both with old tank water.

Tub 1 has: Macro Alga Ulva Intestinalis and is fed spirulina once a week until the water goes a mild green . The Ulva just keeps the tube fed with "phyto".
Dose 10 mil of TNC Lite Aquarium plant food weekly.
Harvested on Wednesdays

Tub 2 has: Bits of my filter foam that I change out every week from the DT and is fed spirulina once a week until the water goes a mild green.
Harvested on Saturdays

So far Tub 1 is producing about 3x more tigs that tub 2.

Just a side note that my other copepod culturing of two species (Harpacticoida and Calanoida) now just uses Macro Alga Ulva Intestinalis as the main food source instead of Phyto. These i culture inside the house in 2.5 litre jars with aeration.
Dose 10 mil of TNC Lite Aquarium plant food weekly.

For water top-up i just use rain water.

Hope that helps.

Dx
 

ectoaesthetics

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YES YES AND YES!

Yup! I keep telling people that if you are failing to grow these guys you are trying way too hard. Get yourself a bucket put it outside and put a heater in it (for cold days). I also keep a chunk of Marco rock in the bottom. I suck out 1/4 of the junk that builds up in the bottom from time to time. NEVER suck it all out. I have raised them in coastal California (where they are from) and Grand Junction Colorado!!

I use live phyto though. I find this helps a lot. Pods poop, yard stuff falls in the bucket, and the live phyto grows in the bucket as a result, cutting down my need for crazy amounts of food and reduces pollution. This has extended my growing time with the pods before major water changes. I find that I get about 3-4 months of pod explosion before I need to really change the water. WHEN I do I just use old tank water. I am not selling these things to the aquaculture community so if it has a couple of random pods from my tank it is no big deal... That being said I have NEVER had a bucket become contaminated with a bunch of other pods. Nothing else seems to survive sitting in my yard. Also with the heater I simply set the aquarium heater to the lowest setting. Extreme lows do seem to wipe out my pod population.

Also cool. Your pods will be BRIGHT red. When exposed to sunlight there is some reaction with the stuff they store in their bodies which turns them bright red. I always use Live Phyto from @Reef Nutrition . Seems to be a great mix for them. I use enough to barely turn the water green in the bucket... A week or two later I add a bit more. A small bottle is enough that I still have over 1/2 the bottle left post expiration. Shouldn't add this: but I STILL use is post the date on the bottle as long as is still smells yummy (there is something wrong with me as I love the smell of fresh phyto).

I never find I have to add flake food (which I have tried), or pellets (also tried), or BRS reef chili (which the pods LOVE and I mean LOVE), or anything else. Enough crap will blow into the container that it will feed itself. I really think this is the secret to the success!! I find that additions of the above give me very little pop in pod population, but make it so that I have to change water faster. I have had -NO- success culturing these guys inside. Although I will try again shortly with a new plan of attack. Also I find that they do better in darker colored containers -NO idea why. White or clear give me less pods. However, if you use a black lined container do NOT put it in direct western facing sunlight on a hot day.
 
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philosophile

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Also, where do you buy your phyto, F2 fertilizer, and pods?
F2 is from fritz, on amazon. pods from the LFS, ultimately from reef nutrition. I use RGcomplete from reef nutrition too (I pour the bottle into several smaller bottles and freeze them for longer shelf life.) spirulina powder from brineshrimpdirect.
 
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philosophile

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I never find I have to add flake food (which I have tried), or pellets (also tried), or BRS reef chili (which the pods LOVE and I mean LOVE), or anything else. Enough crap will blow into the container that it will feed itself. I really think this is the secret to the success!! I find that additions of the above give me very little pop in pod population, but make it so that I have to change water faster. I have had -NO- success culturing these guys inside. Although I will try again shortly with a new plan of attack. Also I find that they do better in darker colored containers -NO idea why. White or clear give me less pods. However, if you use a black lined container do NOT put it in direct western facing sunlight on a hot day.

I'm trying to keep the cost down in raising these guys. so using phyto is pretty expensive, but I haven't tried not using phyto yet..... right now I'm supplementing phyto with spirulina. I'm hoping some combination of flake food and spirulina will keep them going indefinitely, which would be MUCH cheaper than phyto.

I'm using white tidy cat litter buckets. I like the white because the light actually penetrates through the bucket and helps the algae grow (I'm raising daphnia in white buckets too, but with the lid on to prevent mosquitos. the water is still getting enough light to get deep green).

I've started an indoor culture too, but it is way more foamy than the outdoor culture, and I'm not really sure why. But, it's still cycling and forsnt have the hair growth quite yet, so I'll be patient on that, and if there are significant differences in culturing, I'll post an update.
 
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philosophile

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Tub 1 has: Macro Alga Ulva Intestinalis and is fed spirulina once a week until the water goes a mild green . The Ulva just keeps the tube fed with "phyto".
Dose 10 mil of TNC Lite Aquarium plant food weekly.

Interesting. I've been thinking about adding ulva to the bucket to see if it'll do well in there. glad to hear it's working for you. I'll have to get some and try it out.
 

DxMarinefish

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Interesting. I've been thinking about adding ulva to the bucket to see if it'll do well in there. glad to hear it's working for you. I'll have to get some and try it out.

Yes, and saves on money because once started I never have to add phytoplankton again.

I only harvest the Ulva on occasion but generally leave it alone and the dying bits get eaten by the pods.

I have a culture indoors but I find I need to light it. I use cheap LED’s meant to light cupboards at 6000k.
 
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philosophile

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Yes, and saves on money because once started I never have to add phytoplankton again.

I only harvest the Ulva on occasion but generally leave it alone and the dying bits get eaten by the pods.

I have a culture indoors but I find I need to light it. I use cheap LED’s meant to light cupboards at 6000k.
Ulva typically needs a lot of flow right? But it does well in culture?
 

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