Cycling an Aquarium

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Another thing I should have asked but just realized I hadn’t. I have two kessil lights that I haven’t cut on yet for fear of an algae outbreak with all the excess nitrites and nitrates. Should I have these off?
I like having algae in my tank when I first add fish. Algae consumes ammonia directly so can help provide an insurance policy. No need to have them on before you are ready to get fish though and some people don't want to deal with algae. I'm a fan of a very large CuC but not everyone is.
 

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Large CUC is on the list, once the nitrites die down, I checked this morning and still very high. I hope by this afternoon they will be somewhat lower.
 

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When going through the cycle is it normal for the calcium to steadily drop? Day one it was 420 ppm and now on day 4 it’s 380ppm. I don’t have any animals yet so I’d ont know what gives? PH and KH has remained constant at 8.2 and 9
 
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When going through the cycle is it normal for the calcium to steadily drop? Day one it was 420 ppm and now on day 4 it’s 380ppm. I don’t have any animals yet so I’d ont know what gives? PH and KH has remained constant at 8.2 and 9
I wouldn't say that it is normal, but it isn't terribly unusual. There are many chemical equilibriums that occur in a tank when it is set up. The ammonia cycle (cycling) is only one of them. It's possible that there is a chemical reaction occurring with your rocks and/or sand making it bind calcium. The reactions are one of many reasons coral tend to not do well in a new reef tank but can do just fine in a newly set up frag tank.
 

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ok rechecked this morning and ammonium is 0ppm. (good news), bad news is nitrites is still in the purple (same as yesterday). Should I let it go another day to see if it drops? Or should I do a water change at this point? I figured it would have dropped some by now, I'm starting to wonder if I added to much of the nitrifying bacteria, or would that matter? Per the bottle you can add up to 5 X the amount recommended and I am probably 3X. Maybe the nitrying bacteria that converts nitrite into nitrate hasn't had a chance to catch up. Nitrates are high too but I understand that's not accurate test while nitrites are high.
 
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ok rechecked this morning and ammonium is 0ppm. (good news), bad news is nitrites is still in the purple (same as yesterday). Should I let it go another day to see if it drops? Or should I do a water change at this point? I figured it would have dropped some by now, I'm starting to wonder if I added to much of the nitrifying bacteria, or would that matter? Per the bottle you can add up to 5 X the amount recommended and I am probably 3X. Maybe the nitrying bacteria that converts nitrite into nitrate hasn't had a chance to catch up. Nitrates are high too but I understand that's not accurate test while nitrites are high.
You aren't going to be able to add too many nitrifying bacteria. Not an issue. You can do a water change to start lowing nitrites or let it go and do its thing, either will work. Many of the bottled bacteria products are more effective at processing ammonia than nitrites so what you are seeing isn't uncommon. It's also one reason why I don't like dosing back up to 2ppm daily as some people recommend. To me, that builds up nitrites and nitrates necessarily high. I prefer to let it drop to close to 0.25ppm ammonia before bringing it back up. If it process the ammonia in a day I don't redose again.
 

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Ok thanks for you valuable input on this. Now assuming I do the water change today, how much should I add? I'm thinking about 80% area to bring all those numbers down. Also, in the process I'm assuming I won't remove any good bacteria since they are in the sand, rock, and filter? Tomorrow if all the numbers are ok, would I be ok to add 2 clown fish?

As far as doing I think I won't dose anymore the ammonium has went to 0 within 24 hrs so need to redose IMO
 
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Ok thanks for you valuable input on this. Now assuming I do the water change today, how much should I add? I'm thinking about 80% area to bring all those numbers down. Also, in the process I'm assuming I won't remove any good bacteria since they are in the sand, rock, and filter? Tomorrow if all the numbers are ok, would I be ok to add 2 clown fish?

As far as doing I think I won't dose anymore the ammonium has went to 0 within 24 hrs so need to redose IMO
I wouldn't add fish until your nitrites are at 0ppm, or darn close to it. If that happens tomorrow than I would say yes, you could add fish. The larger your water change, the faster that is likely to happen. And no, you won't remove enough good bacteria doing a water change to make a difference.
 

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As far as dosing, I think I won't dose anymore the ammonium has went to 0 withing 24 hrs. So no need IMO. Sorry for broken English, typing to fast and working at same time. LOL
 
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As far as dosing, I think I won't dose anymore the ammonium has went to 0 withing 24 hrs. So no need IMO. Sorry for broken English, typing to fast and working at same time. LOL
No problem, and yes, I would stop with the ammonia dosing.
 

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I started my tank with live sand, base Rock and nutri seawater which I still use for water changes btw along with cheato, ARC purple helix, ARC rotifers and Tisbe pods and some phytoplankton doses at 1 tablespoons a day on a 10gal nano and 8 mini omega one pellets every 3.5 days I got a cycle going fairly quickly and within 2 weeks I was able to add 2 hermits and a emerald crab and a petco live rock for bristle worms and spaghetti worms to help my cycle by going forward to dispose of waste food and to control algae growth on rock. My pod population was very blooming I had thousands upon thousands of pods which added to the bio load now all I got left is rotifers I think unless some tisbe are still alive. I wasn’t worried about ick risk of the Petco live rock because ick parasites die within 8-10 weeks of no fish host plus invertebrates can carry ick but they can’t host them, so it’s possible for ick to come in on macro algaes hermit crab shells, snails really anything but a fishless tank can’t sustain them. I’m planning on setting up a 40 gallon reef and converting the 10 gal to a isolation tank to treat ick, I got a Falco and 2 clowns in the tank now but once my invertebrates move to the 40gallon reef I’m gonna make it a bare bottom tank and give them a ick treatment and not put them in for the standard 8-10 weeks
 
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I started my tank with live sand and nutri seawater along with cheato, ARC purple helix, ARC rotifers and Tisbe pods and some phytoplankton doses at 2 tablespoons a day and 8 mini omega one pellets every 3.5 days I got a cycle going fairly quickly and within 2 weeks I was able to add 2 hermits and a emerald crab to help my cycle by going forward to dispose of waste food and to control algae growth on rock. My pod population was very blooming I had thousands upon thousands of pods which added to the bio load now all I got left is rotifers I think unless some tisbe are still alive

Is should also mention I have pods coming in thursday from algae barn. I will add them to the tank after the water change? I'm assuming the high nitrates would affect them as well? I need to get a good CUC after water change too
 

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Is should also mention I have pods coming in thursday from algae barn. I will add them to the tank after the water change? I'm assuming the high nitrates would affect them as well? I need to get a good CUC after water change too
After water change is ideal because you don’t wanna suck them out,I didn’t do water changes for the first month of establishing my tank just top offs with distilled water. I TDS and copper tested prior. Pods have a free roaming larvae stage the ones I got were in this stage. Pods are pretty much indestructible they can tolerate salinity swings to 1.040 in some cases and poor water conditions, they are like cockroaches but die in low salinity. After the one month I did a 10% water change and began doing them weekly. I compulsion bought a blood red fire shrimp at Petco $18 bucks online they are line $60 so I was like ok he looks healthy and active I want lol, my case the nutri seawater and pods along with phytoplankton food probably helped me keep stable water conditions, nutri seawater is marketed as packed with 10,000 types of natural marine bacteria so that probably helped me.
 

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After water change is ideal because you don’t wanna suck them out,I didn’t do water changes for the first month of establishing my tank just top offs with distilled water. I TDS and copper tested prior. Pods have a free roaming larvae stage the ones I got were in this stage. Pods are pretty much indestructible they can tolerate salinity swings to 1.040 in some cases and poor water conditions, they are like cockroaches but die in low salinity. After the one month I did a 10% water change and began doing them weekly. I compulsion bought a blood red fire shrimp at Petco $18 bucks online they are line $60 so I was like ok he looks healthy and active I want lol, my case the nutri seawater and pods along with phytoplankton food probably helped me keep stable water conditions, nutri seawater is marketed as packed with 10,000 types of natural marine bacteria so that probably helped me.

Thanks for info on the pods. Yeah I love the red fire shrimp myself! Yeah I probably need to buy some phytoplanton myself ( I forgot ). Does the phytoplankton raise/lower water conditions such as pH or nitrates?
 

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Thanks for info on the pods. Yeah I love the red fire shrimp myself! Yeah I probably need to buy some phytoplanton myself ( I forgot ). Does the phytoplankton raise/lower water conditions such as pH or nitrates?
I dunno my rule of thumb is 1 tablespoon per 10 gallons every 3.5 days. Never noticed a harmful impact on PH. Only did it till my 16.5oz ran up to cycle with pods. After my pest jellyfish issue subsides I’m gonna have to get more pods because I’m committing pod genocide to get rid of thier food source
 

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I dunno my rule of thumb is 1 tablespoon per 10 gallons every 3.5 days. Never noticed a harmful impact on PH. Only did it till my 16.5oz ran up to cycle with pods. After my pest jellyfish issue subsides I’m gonna have to get more pods because I’m committing pod genocide to get rid of thier food source

Ok thanks
 

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