Cycling an Aquarium

[vetteguy53081]

HI there.... yet another cycling question.

I am on 26th day of cycling.. API ammonia testing shows I still have about 0.25 ppm Nitrite is at about 2 ppm.. and Nitrate is skyrocketing at about 150 ppm (used water dilusion). Used Fritz turbostart, Microbacter XLM and Seachem Seed bacteria. It is a 100 liter (30ish gallon) all in one tank. I can ignore the tank but it's dragging so here are somethings I want to do.

1. leave the tank as is and wait out.
2. add more bacteria from bottle
3. Start refugium ( i have a small HOB refugium with light)
4. water change and add a fish
5. add more ammonia to boost bacterial growth

What would be the best decision to make at the moment?

I am running the tank at 32 ppt salinity and 27 C (80is F).. running skimming atm with a roller mat.
Skimmer and Roller Mats weren't operated during the initial 10 days of cycling.

*mistakes I made so far
-the initial ammonia level was at 8 ppm so I did water change at about 10 days due to no change in Ammonia level whatsoever.

-added seeded filter medium and some new filter medium in the 2nd week

-when the ammonia level went down to 0.25 from 2ppm the first time, I added a bit more ammonia and is now back at 0.25ppm but not moving lower.

API test may be wrong and confirm by taking a water sample to an LFS that does Not use API kit and see what reading they get and to compare with yours. Generally when For five days ammonia is at zero and nitrate is 20 or below, you are cycled

 

[Ogus]

API test may be wrong and confirm by taking a water sample to an LFS that does Not use API kit and see what reading they get and to compare with yours. Generally when For five days ammonia is at zero and nitrate is 20 or below, you are cycled

my Nitrate is at about 150? LOL I thought for Nitrate I just need a huge water change.

 

[vetteguy53081]

my Nitrate is at about 150? LOL I thought for Nitrate I just need a huge water change.

You may need several water changes with this number. How are you testing the nitrate?

 

[Ogus]

You may need several water changes with this number. How are you testing the nitrate?

Tetra NItrate kit.. thing is I am not sure if my cycle is done to get another water change.. I was frowned upon for doing water changes..by my peer locally..

 

[jackandrocco]

HI there.... yet another cycling question.

I am on 26th day of cycling.. API ammonia testing shows I still have about 0.25 ppm Nitrite is at about 2 ppm.. and Nitrate is skyrocketing at about 150 ppm (used water dilusion). Used Fritz turbostart, Microbacter XLM and Seachem Seed bacteria. It is a 100 liter (30ish gallon) all in one tank. I can ignore the tank but it's dragging so here are somethings I want to do.

1. leave the tank as is and wait out.
2. add more bacteria from bottle
3. Start refugium ( i have a small HOB refugium with light)
4. water change and add a fish
5. add more ammonia to boost bacterial growth

What would be the best decision to make at the moment?

I am running the tank at 32 ppt salinity and 27 C (80is F).. running skimming atm with a roller mat.
Skimmer and Roller Mats weren't operated during the initial 10 days of cycling.

*mistakes I made so far
-the initial ammonia level was at 8 ppm so I did water change at about 10 days due to no change in Ammonia level whatsoever.

-added seeded filter medium and some new filter medium in the 2nd week

-when the ammonia level went down to 0.25 from 2ppm the first time, I added a bit more ammonia and is now back at 0.25ppm but not moving lower.

I am new to the hobby but with that much nitrate I can almost assure you ammonia is at 0 and the api ammonia test isn’t going below .25

 

[jackandrocco]

I am new to the hobby but with that much nitrate I can almost assure you ammonia is at 0 and the api ammonia test isn’t going below .25

I’m cycling my first tank and I ordered a Hannah ammonia tester because my api wouldn’t go below .25

 

[Lasse]

0.25 is a normal misreading from many total ammonia test kit - do not worry about that
Your high NO3 (nitrate) concentration is mostly because your NO2 (nitrite) interfer with the NO3 measurements. The factor can be as high as 100 times the nitrite concentrations among many normal tests

I am on 26th day of cycling.. API ammonia testing shows I still have about 0.25 ppm Nitrite is at about 2 ppm.. and Nitrate is skyrocketing at about 150 ppm (used water dilusion). Used Fritz turbostart, Microbacter XLM and Seachem Seed bacteria. It is a 100 liter (30ish gallon) all in one tank. I can ignore the tank but it's dragging so here are somethings I want to do.

Your nitrification is stuck at the second phase of nitrification cycle (NO2 -> NO3) probably because you have seeded both with nitrification bacteria and normal breakdown bacteria including organic carbon. (fritz turbostart and probably Microbacter XLM = nitrification bacteria and Seachem Seed bacteria = mixed with breakdown bacteria) During a start up - these different bacteria groups compete about space and because of faster growth - the breakdown bacteria will always win. You have also used to much ammonia and it is toxic to the nitrification bacteria in the second step

1. leave the tank as is and wait out.

It takes time to solve this

2. add more bacteria from bottle

Yes if it is pure nitrification bacteria and no mix or containing organic carbon. This article is worth reading. According to the products you have on hand - Fritz turbostart should be the best - please see the graph below (from the linked thread)

Note Microbacters good performance in the first step (NH4/NH3 -> NO2 but lack of response to the second step (NO2 to NO3 )

Fritz turbo works for both steps

This very good investigation also show that living sand in a bag is a good idea

3. Start refugium ( i have a small HOB refugium with light)

Would probably not hurt (however, it can compete with nitrifying bacteria for phosphorus) but also use of a small internal foam filter together with adding Fritz will speed up the process

4. water change and add a fish

I always try to avoid WC in a start. Its true that the nitrification bacteria not is pelagic - they need a media to attach on. However - this media can be small particles in the water column - WC will take away them. But this is always a balance act. A WC will lower the load of inorganic N but also take away phosphorous - things that the nitrification bacteria needs for growth. Use you head. New mixed saltwater do not either contain colloids - organic molecules that protect the mucus on the fish.

NO2 is not very toxic for fish in saltwater - there is no danger to introduce fish with 2 mg/L NO2 but a fish will also give you more ammonia into the system - and that is a thing you do not need in the moment. The first step works NH4/NH3 -> NO2 and you do not need more NO2 at the moment. On the other hand - a fish can also bring in some phosphorous into the system that benefit the second stage nitrification bacteria. Once again - use your head

5. add more ammonia to boost bacterial growth

Absolute NO see above

What would be the best decision to make at the moment?

IMO - if I was in your clothes - I would add Fritz turbostart, a foam filter and maybe som phosphorous (In this case - I prefer PO4 in a bottle - but only a small amount - you do not need much. Very, very, very, very small amount of fish food could also bring that in. Measure NO2 at least every day. When it kick in - it kick in fast.

This is how I would handle the problem you run in to.

However I have used a loaded word or idea - A nitrification that is stuck before the second stage - it will normally create a deluge of posts talking about old and new cycling knowledge from one person. If so - read his posts and as usual - use your own head

Good luck - I hope my answer help you

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Freenow54]

HI there.... yet another cycling question.

I am on 26th day of cycling.. API ammonia testing shows I still have about 0.25 ppm Nitrite is at about 2 ppm.. and Nitrate is skyrocketing at about 150 ppm (used water dilusion). Used Fritz turbostart, Microbacter XLM and Seachem Seed bacteria. It is a 100 liter (30ish gallon) all in one tank. I can ignore the tank but it's dragging so here are somethings I want to do.

1. leave the tank as is and wait out.
2. add more bacteria from bottle
3. Start refugium ( i have a small HOB refugium with light)
4. water change and add a fish
5. add more ammonia to boost bacterial growth

What would be the best decision to make at the moment?

I am running the tank at 32 ppt salinity and 27 C (80is F).. running skimming atm with a roller mat.
Skimmer and Roller Mats weren't operated during the initial 10 days of cycling.

*mistakes I made so far
-the initial ammonia level was at 8 ppm so I did water change at about 10 days due to no change in Ammonia level whatsoever.

-added seeded filter medium and some new filter medium in the 2nd week

-when the ammonia level went down to 0.25 from 2ppm the first time, I added a bit more ammonia and is now back at 0.25ppm but not moving lower.

mine took 1.5 months before I was happy following my article. Yes to keep adding ammonia keep it below 4ppm maybe the bacteria that works on Nitrates has not established . NO MORE Bacteria no to 3 and 4 . Five yes as I said ( from article ). Just my opinion

 

[Ogus]

Finally Ammonia is 0 after about 2 days since I last poured in ammonia chloride to about 1.5ppm. However nitrite is still above 1 ppm.. and Nitrate is.. I don't even know what.. I am thinking about doing a 80% water change tomorrow and be done with this cycling.. planning on adding Nitrobiotic from Tropic Marin to help with lower nitrite level hopefully with dilution through WC. or should I still wait til the nitrite comes down to 0 on it's own?

 

[TonyCagg]

New reefer…first cycle

Have been cycling my IM 200 INT for 15 days.

• Fish less cycle.
• Dr. Tim’s One and Only
• Dr. Tim’s Ammonia
• Live rocks from the tanks at WWC.

Things were slow, barely any change for first 10 days… things started moving 5 days ago.

BIG changes today…

Ammonia - 0.05ppm
Nitrites - 200ppb
Nitrates - 75ppm

Ammonia was at 147ppm two days ago, were at 200ppm. Had meetings and couldn’t text Nitrates 2 days ago, but they were at zero 5 days ago.

Thoughts from any long time reefers?

Everyone said when ammonia and nitrites hit zero the cycle is done etc.

Should I wait some more or should I do a water change?

 

[TonyCagg]

New reefer…first cycle

Have been cycling my IM 200 INT for 15 days.

• Fish less cycle.
• Dr. Tim’s One and Only
• Dr. Tim’s Ammonia
• Live rocks from the tanks at WWC.

Things were slow, barely any change for first 10 days… things started moving 5 days ago.

BIG changes today…

Ammonia - 0.05ppm
Nitrites - 200ppb
Nitrates - 75ppm

Ammonia was at 147ppm two days ago, were at 200ppm. Had meetings and couldn’t text Nitrates 2 days ago, but they were at zero 5 days ago.

Thoughts from any long time reefers?

Everyone said when ammonia and nitrites hit zero the cycle is done etc.

Should I wait some more or should I do a water change

Correction…

1.47 ppm
200 ppb

 

[cba191]

Cycling a new aquarium.​

One of the earliest topics a new aquarium hobbyist needs to learn is how to properly cycle their aquarium. There is a ton of information on this process and many different methods on how to accomplish it. There are many different chemical and biological cycles our tank goes through as it matures but this addresses the one most commonly discussed.


What is cycling?

The term cycling comes from the process known as the “Nitrogen Cycle”. When a plant or animal decays, or an animal expels waste, nitrogen is released. In our aquariums we initially see this as ammonia. Bacteria converts the ammonia to nitrite and then to nitrate. When we have enough bacteria to quickly convert ammonia to nitrate, we say that our tank has cycled. This is deceiving because the process doesn’t stop at this point and it is never complete. For this reason we need to think of this as establishing a large enough bacteria population to support fish, not completing a cycle.


Ammonia is a waste product of a fish’s cellular activity which is expelled through their gills. If the ammonia in the water is higher than in their blood it cannot be released and builds up in the fish causing cell damage. Nitrosomonas bacteria use ammonia as food and convert it to nitrite.

Nitrite is also harmful to fish. In a fish, nitrites hinder the ability of its blood to carry oxygen. Nitrites are a serious issue in fresh water systems. The same receptors in a fish that would absorb nitrites have a higher affinity for chlorides. The chlorides in saltwater block nitrites from being absorbed and protects the fish in marine systems. We rely on a different species of bacteria, Nitrobacter, to convert nitrite to nitrate.

Nitrates are relatively harmless for fish unless it reaches very high levels. Nitrates leaves our tank in any number of ways. We get rid of it via water changes. Algae and some corals can consume it as food.

The last part of the cycle is when nitrate is converted to nitrogen gas. This is done by anaerobic bacteria inside porous rock or within deep sand beds. Not every aquarium has the necessary conditions for this to occur

is there a formula to calculate how much ammonia to dose for a given sized system?
Never mind. Found Dr. Tim

 

[MNscoe]

First time reefer trying to cycle my tank. I don't understand what it's doing, and I also made at least one mistake -- I overdosed ammonia. 55g, salinity 34, temp 77, dry rock and 1" - 2" live (wet) sand. Added water & wet sand April 25th, it's been ~25 days, although I let it sit for the first week with no ammonia & no measurements.
Then added 32oz FritzZyme 9 and low-dose ammonia, realized I needed more and accidentally overdosed ammonia to 6+ppm. See chart. I just added 4oz Dr Tim's One & Only two days ago.
I don't understand why Nitrates aren't increasing, while Nitrites are staying almost zero and Ammonia is very slow to go down with all that FritzZyme in there. Do I just wait, or do I adjust something? Anybody have a theory of what's going on?
Thank you!

 

[MNscoe]

First time reefer trying to cycle my tank. I don't understand what it's doing, and I also made at least one mistake -- I overdosed ammonia. 55g, salinity 34, temp 77, dry rock and 1" - 2" live (wet) sand. Added water & wet sand April 25th, it's been ~25 days, although I let it sit for the first week with no ammonia & no measurements.
Then added 32oz FritzZyme 9 and low-dose ammonia, realized I needed more and accidentally overdosed ammonia to 6+ppm. See chart. I just added 4oz Dr Tim's One & Only two days ago.
I don't understand why Nitrates aren't increasing, while Nitrites are staying almost zero and Ammonia is very slow to go down with all that FritzZyme in there. Do I just wait, or do I adjust something? Anybody have a theory of what's going on?
Thank you!

Update today:
Same readings as yesterday: Ammonia at 2, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 1. Using API test kit -- could it be showing an error of 2ppm Ammonia?? But then, why no Nitrates? Still confused what my tank is doing.