Cycling Evo 13.5

[kbsharp]

Hi All ,

I need a little advice on my cycle. I started my tank 2 weeks ago using a shrimp and left it in for only 24hrs as my Ammonia tested high must have been die off from the rock and the ammonia was showing 8ppm after 5 days it dropped to 0 ppm ammonia then my Nitrite picked up and is on 5ppm since and hasn't move bit, my Nitrates went from 5 left it for 4 days and now they are 100ppm. I am using API test kit I know it's not the best but will change to Salifert when cycled. My concern is do I do a water change now or wait until Nitrites are back to 0 as it is only 2 weeks old. Also should I water change because my Nitrates are really high now ??I have not used any ammonia or anything since adding the shrimp for a day 2 weeks ago , do I need to keep adding ammonia ?

2 weeks old

Specs : EVO13.5g Tank
Fritz FritzZyme TurboStart 900 Saltwater 1 oz x 2 bottles
Natures Ocean Bio-Activ Reef Live Sand - 10LB
Caribsea Life Rock (20LB)

 

[kbsharp]

This is my build up of testing until

 

[olonmv]

Nitrites are non-toxic in marine aquaria. I initially tested with API. Then went with red sea test kits which are good but I hate color matching so I went with hanna on just about everything.
anywho. When you nitrates are elevated and your ammonia is slight green to yellow I’d say you’re ready for your first fish. Pick up an ammonia badge from seachem when you pick out your first fish so that you can monitor ammonia at a glance. Wait a couple of weeks before you add your next fish and about 3-6 months before adding a coral.

Edit: I’d add your fish first and then start a 10% weekly water change regimen to start to get the nitrates down to where you like.

 

[kbsharp]

Nitrites are non-toxic in marine aquaria. I initially tested with API. Then went with red sea test kits which are good but I hate color matching so I went with hanna on just about everything.
anywho. When you nitrates are elevated and your ammonia is slight green to yellow I’d say you’re ready for your first fish. Pick up an ammonia badge from seachem when you pick out your first fish so that you can monitor ammonia at a glance. Wait a couple of weeks before you add your next fish and about 3-6 months before adding a coral.

Edit: I’d add your fish first and then start a 10% weekly water change regimen to start to get the nitrates down to where you like.

So do you think it is cycled ? I thought I needed the Nitrites down to 0ppm ? I can do a bigger water change if needed , I know patience is important so I don't mind waiting , I wanted to add a cheap coral first like a mushroom rather than a fish as I want to get a nice pair of clowns but don't want them to be the ones to test the water first.

 

[olonmv]

So do you think it is cycled ? I thought I needed the Nitrites down to 0ppm ? I can do a bigger water change if needed , I know patience is important so I don't mind waiting , I wanted to add a cheap coral first like a mushroom rather than a fish as I want to get a nice pair of clowns but don't want them to be the ones to test the water first.

When I first started my 13.5 I also went the prawn route. My API ammonia kept coming back super light green to yellow. I was nervous adding in my first fish but did it anyway. 2 years later still got her. I’d say take it slow with the WC 10% weekly is a good amount of water changed especially since you’re just gonna be feeding one fish. It’s best if you add fish first. Your parameters are gonna be all over the place for the first few months I’m assuming you went dead rock n sand. If a mated pair of clowns is what you desire I’d pick another fish first to raise your good bacteria colonies so that they’re capable if handling 2 new fish at the same time.

 

[kbsharp]

When I first started my 13.5 I also went the prawn route. My API ammonia kept coming back super light green to yellow. I was nervous adding in my first fish but did it anyway. 2 years later still got her. I’d say take it slow with the WC 10% weekly is a good amount of water changed especially since you’re just gonna be feeding one fish. It’s best if you add fish first. Your parameters are gonna be all over the place for the first few months I’m assuming you went dead rock n sand. If a mated pair of clowns is what you desire I’d pick another fish first to raise your good bacteria colonies so that they’re capable if handling 2 new fish at the same time.

I used live sand for this with 2 bottles of fritz turbo start. The rock is dried up life rock as I used it In a tank I started long ago but we moved so I had it in a container dried out for a year I rinse it with RODI and Wavemaker for a day old 2 but when I addd it to the tank must have still had die off, So should I do one big water change now as my Nitrates is about 160ppm according to test kit , or 10% wc until it slowly goes down ?

 

[olonmv]

So should I do one big water change now as my Nitrates is about 160ppm according to test kit , or 10% wc until it slowly goes down ?

even if you did a big 50% wc you’d bring it down to 80ppm. High nitrates won’t adversely affect fish at the 160ppm level. I’d do fish only and 10% wc weekly until youre where you wanna be.

The best advice I can give you regarding corals is. Wait. Master your tank husbandry with fish only, IE know how to keep your parameters in check, mainly alk,N03,p04, magnesium,ph and, temp and salinity via testing and maintainance. When you’ve consistently have kept your parameters in check over the course of a few months then you’ll be ready. Your tank is gonna go through some funk since it’s immature. Your corals will be adversely affected by the ugly stage and IMO it’s not worth the added stress of watching perfectly good corals die off…..from experience. Perhaps a super simple one and practically bullet proof would be GSP. Another consideration is the stock light limits you to corals you can keep. Under stock light….GSP grows.

 

[olonmv]

If you went with dead prawn AND fritz turbo start I’d say you’re good to go. Go get a nano fish and the ammonia badge and put some life into your tank!!!

 

[kbsharp]

even if you did a big 50% wc you’d bring it down to 80ppm. High nitrates won’t adversely affect fish at the 160ppm level. I’d do fish only and 10% wc weekly until youre where you wanna be.

The best advice I can give you regarding corals is. Wait. Master your tank husbandry with fish only, IE know how to keep your parameters in check, mainly alk,N03,p04, magnesium,ph and, temp and salinity via testing and maintainance. When you’ve consistently have kept your parameters in check over the course of a few months then you’ll be ready. Your tank is gonna go through some funk since it’s immature. Your corals will be adversely affected by the ugly stage and IMO it’s not worth the added stress of watching perfectly good corals die off…..from experience. Perhaps a super simple one and practically bullet proof would be GSP. Another consideration is the stock light limits you to corals you can keep. Under stock light….GSP grows.

I am going to get Ai Prime lighting as the stock light is just okish.

 

[kbsharp]

If you went with dead prawn AND fritz turbo start I’d say you’re good to go. Go get a nano fish and the ammonia badge and put some life into your tank!!!

Yea I will give it a few days and hopefully get something on Black Friday

 

[olonmv]

I am going to get Ai Prime lighting as the stock light is just okish.

That’s exactly what I got. The 16hd to be exact. If you plan on waiting on corals I’d stick with the stock light. Fish don’t need light and the stock light will definitely carry you through the uglies. Couple Things to consider when upgrading light.
evaporation is gonna go up exponentially so you’re gonna have to either keep up with water too offs OR get an ATO. also most fish are jumpers so your also gonna have to get a screen too to keep the little guys in just in case they get spooked n jump.

 

[olonmv]

Yea I will give it a few days and hopefully get something on Black Friday

Congrats, when looking for a 1st fish. Go with a fish that is not aggressive. Aggressive fish should be added last if at all. Also don’t get a fish that will out grow your tank….unless you plan on upgrading to a larger size in the near future where you can transfer an over grown fish to.

 

[kbsharp]

That’s exactly what I got. The 16hd to be exact. If you plan on waiting on corals I’d stick with the stock light. Fish don’t need light and the stock light will definitely carry you through the uglies. Couple Things to consider when upgrading light.
evaporation is gonna go up exponentially so you’re gonna have to either keep up with water too offs OR get an ATO. also most fish are jumpers so your also gonna have to get a screen too to keep the little guys in just in case they get spooked n jump.

I agree the evaporation is insane I removed the hood just because I wanted to see how it looks and literally need to fill it a bit every 2 days I will def get a ATO !!

 

[kbsharp]

Congrats, when looking for a 1st fish. Go with a fish that is not aggressive. Aggressive fish should be added last if at all. Also don’t get a fish that will out grow your tank….unless you plan on upgrading to a larger size in the near future where you can transfer an over grown fish to.

Yea I need to think of something small as I don't want a crowded tank , can I got with a invert instead ? will they add enough ammonia to keep the cycle?

 

[olonmv]

I agree the evaporation is insane I removed the hood just because I wanted to see how it looks and literally need to fill it a bit every 2 days I will def get a ATO !!

I have a DIY screen over mine that I made with a diy window screen kit. I got through about a gallon of RODI weekly for top off.

 

[olonmv]

Yea I need to think of something small as I don't want a crowded tank , can I got with an invert instead ? will they add enough ammonia to keep the cycle?

You could go fish less and ghost feed the tank And that would creat ammonia. I’ve got 1 clown 1 yellow watchman with his paired pistol shrimp and 1 neon dottyback in the tank. They all are happy and coexist just fine FWIW.

 

[kbsharp]

I have a DIY screen over mine that I made with a diy window screen kit. I got through about a gallon of RODI weekly for top off.

I like that idea I want to try a DIY screen too as the bought ones are so overpriced

 

[kbsharp]

You could go fish less and ghost feed the tank And that would creat ammonia. I’ve got 1 clown 1 yellow watchman with his paired pistol shrimp and 1 neon dottyback in the tank. They all are happy and coexist just fine FWIW.

That is an idea too thanks . My dream is a pair of storms clownfish but I will see what is available and I really want to get into corals too small corals that grow slowly as the tank is small

 

[olonmv]

I like that idea I want to try a DIY screen too as the bought ones are so overpriced

Here’s a poopy pic of mine. For idea purposes. Picked up black nylon vail from hobby shop for the screen.

 

[olonmv]

That is an idea too thanks . My dream is a pair of storms clownfish but I will see what is available and I really want to get into corals too small corals that grow slowly as the tank is small

Corals is why I got into it. Had I known what I know now, I would have pumped the brakes on the coral and mastered my skills Before taking on corals. Parameter swings are unforgiving in a tank our size and being familiar with them helps tremendously. Also, your tank still has a ton of stages to go through…..save yourself and corals the stress. Fish poop is food for corals BTW so healthy fish equals healthy parameter equals happy coral.