d2mini's "Essential Focus" Mixed Reef Build

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Has been quite a while since I followed the thread ..Amazing !!!
Wanted to know if you are feeding anything for the sponges and gorgorians that you got from tampabay saltwater along with your package.
Am planning for a shipment of live rocks but fear that the sponges and gorgorins will eventually die away ..

Regards,
Abhishek
Some phyto feast and sponge power.
But the red finger sponge in front is already on its way out. Par for the course.

Hey Dennis, what are you mixing your Triton elements in? I wish I would have bought the concentrated ready made solutions instead. Would have been a bit easier.
i-QFWR4nd.jpg
 

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I have used these before!
 
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ok, here's a small project I've been working on.
Found a spot for a "somewhat temporary" quarantine tank.
So I decided to give the whole QT thing a go again.
Haven't had good luck in the past but that's kinda why I want to try it again.
Will only be for fish, so not full proof by any means, but it's something.

Here's the equipment rundown...

20g Long from Petco
HOB filter with sponge and biomedia.
Biofilter Sponge for more bio filtering and more aeration.
Silent-Air backup airstone for potential power outages.
50w heater
Stick-on temp strip
Seachem Ammonia Monitor
Extra sponges for the HOB
PVC for hiding places
Net and bucket just for this setup
DIY screen top

Meds currently on hand...
Cupramine (and Seachem copper test kit)
Prazipro
KanaPlex
MetroPlex
MelaFix
PimaFix

It's been running and is cycled.
The wrasse and tang just went in today.
Observation for a couple days and then need to decide what to do about meds.
Advice/tips appreciated! Maybe @Humblefish can chime in. :)

i-cD7S3Jk.jpg
 

Humblefish

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50w heater
I realize you're in Houston, but you'll probably need a 150W heater (for a 20L) to keep temp stable going into the winter months.

Meds currently on hand...
Cupramine (and Seachem copper test kit)

I would use Coppersafe (with an API copper test kit) instead; seems to be gentler on wrasses and other sensitive species.

And keep some formalin or acriflavine handy just in case you encounter velvet, brook, etc.
 

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I've found API General Cure to be easier to deal with than Prazipro. It won't create a bacterial bloom. In addition it contains Metronidazole in addition to Praziquantel.
 

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So should I just observe or should I treat regardless?

I personally prophylactically treat for external parasites and flukes. However, if you have 10-15 mins every day to sit in front of the QT you can just passively observe. You are not just watching for visible physical symptoms of disease... but also behavioral symptoms such as scratching, flashing, head twitching, heavy breathing, reclusiveness, lack of appetite, swimming into the flow of a powerhead, etc.
 

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I realize you're in Houston, but you'll probably need a 150W heater (for a 20L) to keep temp stable going into the winter months.



I would use Coppersafe (with an API copper test kit) instead; seems to be gentler on wrasses and other sensitive species.

And keep some formalin or acriflavine handy just in case you encounter velvet, brook, etc.

I second the CopperSafe over Cupramine, I've had great luck with wrasses (fairies and leopard) with CopperSafe.
 

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What's your favorite treatment these days? Just the coppersafe or something else?

Chloroquine phosphate in lieu of copper: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/chloroquine-phosphate.192309/

However, I still use Coppersafe for wrasses and a few other fish. I also prefer API General Cure (a prazi/metro powder mix) over liquid Prazipro. But I'm still working out the kinks of getting it to fully dissolve before dosing it into my QTs. o_O
 

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Dennis,
Just to clarify, the Elos plumbing is standard 1.5" on the drain and standard 3/4" for the return?

It's been a while since I've ran a single drain line as my current tank has a bean animal drain.
How has this drain configuration worked for you?

Is it silent?

Does it have fail safes to prevent an overflow?

Thanks,
Brad
 
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Dennis,
Just to clarify, the Elos plumbing is standard 1.5" on the drain and standard 3/4" for the return?

It's been a while since I've ran a single drain line as my current tank has a bean animal drain.
How has this drain configuration worked for you?

Is it silent?

Does it have fail safes to prevent an overflow?

Thanks,
Brad

Correct on the drain sizes.

Here's the video I made that tries to show the amount of flow vs the low noise levels.
Everyone remarks on how quiet it is when they see it in person.



And yes there is an emergency backup system in place if something where to clog the main.
Personally, I'm surprised at how well this system works, coming from a bean animal and coast-to coast overflow.
Having such a tiny footprint for an overflow is awesome.
 

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ok, here's a small project I've been working on.
Found a spot for a "somewhat temporary" quarantine tank.
So I decided to give the whole QT thing a go again.
Haven't had good luck in the past but that's kinda why I want to try it again.
Will only be for fish, so not full proof by any means, but it's something.

Here's the equipment rundown...

20g Long from Petco
HOB filter with sponge and biomedia.
Biofilter Sponge for more bio filtering and more aeration.
Silent-Air backup airstone for potential power outages.
50w heater
Stick-on temp strip
Seachem Ammonia Monitor
Extra sponges for the HOB
PVC for hiding places
Net and bucket just for this setup
DIY screen top

Meds currently on hand...
Cupramine (and Seachem copper test kit)
Prazipro
KanaPlex
MetroPlex
MelaFix
PimaFix

It's been running and is cycled.
The wrasse and tang just went in today.
Observation for a couple days and then need to decide what to do about meds.
Advice/tips appreciated! Maybe @Humblefish can chime in. :)

i-cD7S3Jk.jpg

Nice QT tank man. Curious to watch and see how this turns out for you.
 
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Nice QT tank man. Curious to watch and see how this turns out for you.
Me too.
So far the wrasse seems good to go.
The tang of course doesn't seem to want to eat yet. That always seems to be my big problem with QT's.
 

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