DE Filters - Use, design and implementation.

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I suspect the largest difference between DE filters, which I used to use quite a bit, and the cartridge filter would be time to clog and replacement cost. DE powder is pretty inexpensive to replace as it clogs, which it does quite quickly as you can imagine there are a whole lot of 1um and larger particulate matter in most tanks! They last a while on RO, but tap water is relatively particulate free and runs at water pressure which for me is almost 80 psi, not easy to do with a hobby pump in any significant quantity for filtration.
 
I suspect the largest difference between DE filters, which I used to use quite a bit, and the cartridge filter would be time to clog and replacement cost. DE powder is pretty inexpensive to replace as it clogs, which it does quite quickly as you can imagine there are a whole lot of 1um and larger particulate matter in most tanks! They last a while on RO, but tap water is relatively particulate free and runs at water pressure which for me is almost 80 psi, not easy to do with a hobby pump in any significant quantity for filtration.

I wonder if the cost could be mitigated by using successively smaller micron filters as mentioned previously? Or would the cost matter as much if this system was set up on a QT tank?
 
I wonder if the cost could be mitigated by using successively smaller micron filters as mentioned previously? Or would the cost matter as much if this system was set up on a QT tank?

I really don't know. Certainly the replacement time of the smallest will be less, but then have more cost in overall filters and replacing those too and then the extra pressure or suction needed for more layers. It might work well. But again DE is cheap - even online I saw food grade 20 bucks for 10lb which would last most people years and years.
 
I wonder if the cost could be mitigated by using successively smaller micron filters as mentioned previously? Or would the cost matter as much if this system was set up on a QT tank?

The way I decided to do it was to run the marine land magnum filter in my QT charged with DE. I also made a custom mechanical Filtration secondary sump that sequentially filter from from 200—100-50-20–10–5. I don’t have it set like this most of the time. Usually stop at 100 or sometime 50 microns. But if I feel the need can filter down to five. Obviously those socks can clog quickly but the redundant prefiltration helps and whether you get to 5 micron through pads or socks versus DE it is all the same end point.
 
The way I decided to do it was to run the marine land magnum filter in my QT charged with DE. I also made a custom mechanical Filtration secondary sump that sequentially filter from from 200—100-50-20–10–5. I don’t have it set like this most of the time. Usually stop at 100 or sometime 50 microns. But if I feel the need can filter down to five. Obviously those socks can clog quickly but the redundant prefiltration helps and whether you get to 5 micron through pads or socks versus DE it is all the same end point.

Thanks for a rundown of your system:) So forgive my ignorance and possibly taking this thread off track a little bit but is it possible to use a DE filter with medications in the tank? Or will something like this remove medications?
 
Thanks for a rundown of your system:) So forgive my ignorance and possibly taking this thread off track a little bit but is it possible to use a DE filter with medications in the tank? Or will something like this remove medications?

As long as the medication is soluble in water then it won’t be removed
 
Very interested in setting something like this up. If you use a canister filter how do you ensure the DE doesn’t get through? Is there a mesh bag or something you keep it in or sponge or? It’s going on a ~400 gal system, but I figured if I run it 24 hours a day for a few days it may do the same as what the OP’s setup would do in a day. Trying to control an ich outbreak. Have a UV Sterilizer coming too.
 
Reviving old thread:

Does anyone have any videos showing one of these in action in an aquarium environment? All the ones on YouTube are for pools, and I'd love to see a fish room implementation
I have a Hayward ec 42 that I will be plumbing into my system soon. And will definitely report the process and results on this thread
 
multicyclone-plus_3.jpg

I have one of these, i might try and cycle diatom powder in it. Id have to plug the pumps screws as they are brass with silicone or epoxy. The top half has a pleated cartridge. The bottom is centrifugal. While it sedimented some stuff with my water blaster hy10000 pump hooked up to it, the centrifugal effect wasn't impressive enough. I may try the pool pump this round so i can kick dinos arseholio
 
Reviving old thread:

Does anyone have any videos showing one of these in action in an aquarium environment? All the ones on YouTube are for pools, and I'd love to see a fish room implementation
Here you go. Not sure if it’ll load, but I’ll give it a shot. It did it’s job, but I think I ran it too long and stripped out a lot of beneficial organisms as well because I had a GHA outbreak towards the tail end and haven’t beat it yet. The video won’t load. It’s too large, but here are some pics. The bucket was to prime the pump. Then I had it pulling from the corner and dumping back in on the other side of the tank.

D5F4D6EB-8C43-431B-B904-4E49ADA6F653.jpeg 4B917B11-67E9-499D-8321-26113A991059.jpeg ABD71DA4-E8A1-4320-9D8A-783C00F7CEFE.jpeg BE41F28B-4CA2-4DE0-9287-A0DF1973FB30.jpeg A1838B03-178F-4AC1-B451-55F53D412491.jpeg 37FBF913-4D67-42B0-8E12-AAE7D4513409.jpeg 8FF61C0A-9C79-4305-955D-2058E5024585.jpeg CB2B8356-9B9C-4C86-A6FE-41743F415FE8.jpeg DEED657C-091C-4A6B-B223-3BD60F763BD8.jpeg
 
I have a Hayward ec 42 that I will be plumbing into my system soon. And will definitely report the process and results on this thread
Any updates on your setup? Also are you aware of any metal parts, besides the pressure gauge, on the Hayward EC40 that would need to be replaced before use?
 
For anyone interested, I just installed this filter to assist with ich on an achilles tang. Will report back in a few days
 

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Well, I know it’s anecdotal but this appears to have worked pretty well.

I added an achilles with no visible signs of ich, to have it appear as if it had velvet a week later. I ruled out velvet, as only my blue tang had a handful of spots, and my Naso, Orange Shoulder, and White Tail Bristletooth tangs had no signs of ich. Additionally, non of my other fish had ich.

At this point, my achilles would not eat anything and had a sunken stomach and very visible spine. Within a day of implementing the DE filter, the ich had visibly thinned out, appearing to have been roughly halved. I continued to run the DE for the next month, recharging as necessary. With each couple days, the fish appeared to get better with less spots.

Not long into the DE running, the achilles began to eat nori with the other tangs. I started soaking the nori in selcon to get additional vitamins to the achilles, which probably helped in its recovery. I continued the selcon for a week or two after stopping DE, still feeding nori for the tangs daily. The achilles still had a few spots at this point, but was visibly more active and squaring off with other tangs for territory. I was pretty confident he had made it through.

He is still doing great, having no signs of ich until I did a major tank cleaning this weekend. I have the DE filter ready to go should it be needed, but he is eating nori and frozen now like a pig, also constantly picking at rocks and trying to assert dominance with tangs more than twice his size.

While I understand one persons experience does not translate to fact, I remain cautiously optimistic that this method of ich management could continue to support my husbandry goals, and could be beneficial to others.

I will do my best to answer questions, should any arise.
 

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