Deciding on next step for algae control

[Cbones1979]

Hello all. I’m 3 month in on move from 20 to 45 gallon tank. Currently tank has an eshopps sump rs-75 with filter sock and coral box skimmer.
I have 6 fish (2 clowns, 2 fire fish, wrasse, and blenny). I feed one cube of food per day. I have probably 30 cuc of varying sizes and ty

Here are my parametersbefore my last 25% water change

I’m noticing hair algae in the sand (probably from following the tip to brush off algae on the rocks).

I have limited space but am looking fo mr suggestions on keeping nutrients lower for a longer amount of time (doing weekly water changes now).

any suggestions? Small scrubber? Hob or small in sump fuge? Reactor of some kind?

please provide links if you can

thanks

 

[dank reefer]

If it were my tank, id go with manual removal for now as you have plenty of CUC in your tank. What kind of Blenny do you have? And with the pic you posted of your tank, I can barley see any algae on the sand bed but it could also be that the light is too bright for these old eyes

 

[Marine430]

Maybe just get some GFO to help.

 

[ShepherdReefer]

If it were my tank, id go with manual removal for now as you have plenty of CUC in your tank. What kind of Blenny do you have? And with the pic you posted of your tank, I can barley see any algae on the sand bed but it could also be that the light is too bright for these old eyes

I agree.

 

[Cbones1979]

If it were my tank, id go with manual removal for now as you have plenty of CUC in your tank. What kind of Blenny do you have? And with the pic you posted of your tank, I can barley see any algae on the sand bed but it could also be that the light is too bright for these old eyes

Algae patches are very small. I just remember my gha from my old tank that got so bad I had to dose to kill it. Didn’t want that happening. Also I’m hoping to find a way to lower nutrients so I don’t have to do weekly water changes in the long run.

he’s a bicolor blenny

 

[pochaxoo]

I don't see any obvious algae to be worried about, you may have cleaned very nicely. If you want to add something a refugium is a known good nitrate and phosphate reducer. In your case I don't see any room in to add anything in the sump so a hang on back variety is what you will need. Good luck fighting the green menace.

 

[Cbones1979]

I don't see any obvious algae to be worried about, you may have cleaned very nicely. If you want to add something a refugium is a known good nitrate and phosphate reducer. In your case I don't see any room in to add anything in the sump so a hang on back variety is what you will need. Good luck fighting the green menace.

Thanks. Yeah I was looking at some of those hob ones. May be the move.

 

[New&no clue]

I've been told Emerald Crabs eat hair algae... I have 5 (3 in one tank, 2 in another), and they don't seem to want it. I had a problem with high nutrients. My nitrates were 25-30, and phosphates were .5-.6. I did multiple large WC over two weeks to drop it down to nitrates 5-10 and phosphates .14. I added a large bag of phosguard. That helped a lot to keep it steady. Recently I also added chaeto into my sump, but I still do a 10% WC each week.

 

[Cbones1979]

So I guess a little algae isn’t worth stressing until it becomes too much to handle then it’s time to make changes

 

[Cbones1979]

I don't see any obvious algae to be worried about, you may have cleaned very nicely. If you want to add something a refugium is a known good nitrate and phosphate reducer. In your case I don't see any room in to add anything in the sump so a hang on back variety is what you will need. Good luck fighting the green menace.

just a bunch of small patches like this

 

[Cbones1979]

Maybe just get some GFO to help.

What about a reactor with bio pellets

 

[Cbones1979]

I've been told Emerald Crabs eat hair algae... I have 5 (3 in one tank, 2 in another), and they don't seem to want it. I had a problem with high nutrients. My nitrates were 25-30, and phosphates were .5-.6. I did multiple large WC over two weeks to drop it down to nitrates 5-10 and phosphates .14. I added a large bag of phosguard. That helped a lot to keep it steady. Recently I also added chaeto into my sump, but I still do a 10% WC each week.

i have a few of them. I do see them eating patches of algae. Not out of the sand though for some reason.

 

[Marine430]

What about a reactor with bio pellets

Before you spend a bunch of money just try a media bag with gfo. I use chemi pure elite!

 

[Cbones1979]

Before you spend a bunch of money just try a media bag with gfo. I use chemi pure elite!

Thanks

I’ll toss a bag in and check for a couple weeks. Really considering some sort of fuge too if it will fit.

if nothing changes and my current phosphates are at .15 what do you think chemipure will do to it?

I just don’t want to hit 0 and have to battle dinos

 

[Marine430]

Thanks

I’ll toss a bag in and check for a couple weeks. Really considering some sort of fuge too if it will fit.

if nothing changes and my current phosphates are at .15 what do you think chemipure will do to it?

I just don’t want to hit 0 and have to battle dinos

The highest my phosphate was when I was having lots of problems were 0.36 hanna checker. The chemi pure elite made it 0.00 last I checked and I have never had dinos.

 

[joseserrano]

Feed less

 

[Cbones1979]

Feed less

Less than 1 cube per day? Lol

 

[Cbones1979]

The highest my phosphate was when I was having lots of problems were 0.36 hanna checker. The chemi pure elite made it 0.00 last I checked and I have never had dinos.

Yikes

How do your corals eat? They need phosphates

 

[joseserrano]

Less than 1 cube per day? Lol

Yes

 

[vetteguy53081]

Pull as much gha as you can by hand and verify phosphate and nitrate.
Reduce white light intensity and are you by chance using tap water from the faucet ?