Difference in Salifert and API nitrate test

[lmfbs]

My tank is 11 days old and I'm confused about the different nitrate readings I'm getting from my 2 test kits.

I used dry, bleached rock, which tested 0 ammonia, nitrite and nitrate after being in salt water for 8 days before I initially started my cycle.

To cycle, I used 100 drops of Dr Tim's ammonia in my waterbox 130.4 (total tank volume is around 430 taking into account rock, the recommended dose was around 400 drops), and added the recommended amount of Microbacter Start XLM. My ammonia got to 0.15 according to my Salifert test.

A couple of days later it had dropped to 0 ammonia so I re-dosed ammonia to 0.5. As you'd imagine, nitrate went up, I started seeing nitrate on day 4. By day 7, I was testing 0 ammonia, 0.25 nitrite and 25 nitrate. On day 8 I did a 20% water change and added 4 trochus snails, a tiny bit of GSP and an ugly acan frag my buddy was chucking out.

On day 10, ammonia was reading 0, nitrite 0.25, nitrate 50. I did a 30% wc.

Today, it's day 11. Ammonia 0, nitrite 0.25, nitrate 50 (or possibly even 100 on the Salifert test). I'm suspicious about this because I haven't fed the tank or added anything since doing a 30% water change, and before then was a bit of nori which I removed after about 20 minutes because the snails are too stupid to find it. I suppose it's possible the rock is leaching something, I guess. I'm running a skimmer, wet, and have a filter roller.

I used my API nitrate test and it's coming up 5 - 10ppm (honestly closer to 5). I ran both tests again; same thing, Salifert ~50, API 5. I watched videos making sure I'm doing the test properly and reading it properly. I am. I got my partner to do the tests, and he has got the same results.

Phos 0.03, maybe slightly clearer yesterday and today, but definitely more than 0.

I feel like I'm going crazy. Any suggestions?

 

[hunterallen40]

It's super unlikely that you would have 50 ppm nitrate... 1 ppm NH4 becomes ~3.6 ppm NO3 (lots of astricts on that, but you get the point...). So you would need to add quite a bit more than 0.5 ppm ammonia to a sterile tank to get to 50 ppm nitrate.

The API test sounds closer to reality, IMO. I have never used a salifert test, so I can't speak to their accuracy at all.

I would not be worried about the nitrate at this stage unless it goes way off the charts.

Make sure to check your expiration dates on all your tests!

 

[lmfbs]

It's super unlikely that you would have 50 ppm nitrate... 1 ppm NH4 becomes ~3.6 ppm NO3 (lots of astricts on that, but you get the point...). So you would need to add quite a bit more than 0.5 ppm ammonia to a sterile tank to get to 50 ppm nitrate.

The API test sounds closer to reality, IMO. I have never used a salifert test, so I can't speak to their accuracy at all.

I would not be worried about the nitrate at this stage unless it goes way off the charts.

Make sure to check your expiration dates on all your tests!

This is basically the conclusion I came to as well - unless the rock is leaching a HUGE amount of ammonia which is basically instantly getting converted into nitrate I just don't see how it's possible.

Both test kits are well within expiry (10/24 and 01/25).

I've seen some talk about some nitrate tests being sensitive to nitrite (as in, if there's nitrite present the nitrate will read strange) and I wonder if that's what's happening with the Salifert test.

I've got 2 clowns coming in a couple of days and I just want to make sure they're going to be okay appreciate your reassurance!

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

I watched videos making sure I'm doing the test properly and reading it properly.

Just to make sure, you're reading Salifert from the top, not the side, correct?

I agree with Hunter, at this point your tank is so new that it will go through a lot of changes... There's a lot more to factor in than just the basic nitrifying bacteria. The good thing is, your tank is cycled and safe for inverts (obviously) and fish, so you can start slowly stocking it!

Start developing good maintenance habits, regular water changes, etc. Continue testing nitrate and phosphate to get into the habit and to track trends, but don't stress about having specific numbers; once a month at least but no more than once a week (unless it's before and after a water change, if desired).

Welcome to the hobby!

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

*Also, while I'm in the camp that thinks API tests are fine, if you don't shake the living daylights out of the nitrate test solutions prior to adding them, and then shake the test tube really well, you might get a false reading.

(I'm talking banging the solution bottles on the table a few times and then shaking vigorously for a full minute... It's a real workout! Lol)

 

[lmfbs]

Just to make sure, you're reading Salifert from the top, not the side, correct?

I agree with Hunter, at this point your tank is so new that it will go through a lot of changes... There's a lot more to factor in than just the basic nitrifying bacteria. The good thing is, your tank is cycled and safe for inverts (obviously) and fish, so you can start slowly stocking it!

Start developing good maintenance habits, regular water changes, etc. Continue testing nitrate and phosphate to get into the habit and to track trends, but don't stress about having specific numbers; once a month at least but no more than once a week (unless it's before and after a water change, if desired).

Welcome to the hobby!

Sure am reading from the top down.

Thankfully I'm not a new reefer, or I would have probably been much more frustrated than amused like I am now

I'm returning to the hobby - about 8 years ago I left the hobby after a natural disaster then power surge fried my 6 year old tank and killed my babies. I had a beautiful softie/lps tank with a reef-safe puffer and it was devastating. That tank survived a 6 day power outage in winter, though in fairness I'm from NZ so winter is like... 12°c. I'm only now feeling emotionally ready to come back, and wouldn't you know you can buy auto-testers now!? Back in my day (I sound 100 years old) we had to DIY all dosing and most people had a bottle of fish vodka in their cabinet.

Thanks for the tips - I tend to agree the Salifert kit must be doing something strange. I might order another Salifert just to test against that for fun.

 

[lmfbs]

*Also, while I'm in the camp that thinks API tests are fine, if you don't shake the living daylights out of the nitrate test solutions prior to adding them, and then shake the test tube really well, you might get a false reading.

(I'm talking banging the solution bottles on the table a few times and then shaking vigorously for a full minute... It's a real workout! Lol)

My friend, my arm is still tired from all my shaking (I am very weak and taking no criticism at this time)

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Sure am reading from the top down.

Thankfully I'm not a new reefer, or I would have probably been much more frustrated than amused like I am now

I'm returning to the hobby - about 8 years ago I left the hobby after a natural disaster then power surge fried my 6 year old tank and killed my babies. I had a beautiful softie/lps tank with a reef-safe puffer and it was devastating. That tank survived a 6 day power outage in winter, though in fairness I'm from NZ so winter is like... 12°c. I'm only now feeling emotionally ready to come back, and wouldn't you know you can buy auto-testers now!? Back in my day (I sound 100 years old) we had to DIY all dosing and most people had a bottle of fish vodka in their cabinet.

Thanks for the tips - I tend to agree the Salifert kit must be doing something strange. I might order another Salifert just to test against that for fun.

Fish vodka sounds terrible! Lol!

 

[bushdoc]

Some other thoughts:
Nitrate tests will give you falsely high reading in the presence of Nitrites.
If you plan to have FOWLR, then you shouldn't be preoccupied with Nitrate testing, if you are thinking about Reef Tank, especially LPS/SPS, consider investing in Hanna High Level Nitrate Checker.

 

[lmfbs]

Fish vodka sounds terrible! Lol!

Carbon dosing - I gather there are still some people using vodka. I drew a fish on my fish bottle and a person on my drinking bottle so I didn't get confused.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Carbon dosing - I gather there are still some people using vodka. I drew a fish on my fish bottle and a person on my drinking bottle so I didn't get confused.

No, I understood your original post, I just wouldn't put it past some company to make another gross-flavored vodka!

 

[lmfbs]

Some other thoughts:
Nitrate tests will give you falsely high reading in the presence of Nitrites.
If you plan to have FOWLR, then you shouldn't be preoccupied with Nitrate testing, if you are thinking about Reef Tank, especially LPS/SPS, consider investing in Hanna High Level Nitrate Checker.

It'll be an LPS/softie tank eventually. I'm planning on getting a LR hanna checker, but given it will be a light coral load for a wee while I figured a ballpark would be fine for a few months.

I wondered about the nitrite/nitrate issue, I recall it had been an issue when I was previously in the hobby but honestly I figured the lab people would have found a new way by now. I certainly feel much less concerned now, thanks!

 

[lmfbs]

No, I understood your original post, I just wouldn't put it past some company to make another gross-flavored vodka!

I'm 100% sure someone made it already for the joke

 

[SteveMM62Reef]

After using a Hanna Colormeter for Copper, the Hanna Colormeter Checkers are on my must have list.

 

[lmfbs]

After using a Hanna Colormeter for Copper, the Hanna Colormeter Checkers are on my must have list.

I've got the calcium and alk ones already, I'm planning to pick the others up when I see them on special. They're pretty great eh?

 

[Reefer Matt]

Patience is my suggestion. I wouldn't add anything else for a couple more weeks, or test until then either.

 

[biom]

It'll be an LPS/softie tank eventually. I'm planning on getting a LR hanna checker, but given it will be a light coral load for a wee while I figured a ballpark would be fine for a few months.

I wondered about the nitrite/nitrate issue, I recall it had been an issue when I was previously in the hobby but honestly I figured the lab people would have found a new way by now. I certainly feel much less concerned now, thanks!

Hanna checker is much better than Salifert in terms of nitrite interference but since Nitrite is of concern mostly for newly established tanks I dont see big issue of using cheaper and easier Salifert. Just be aware if the solution looks unusually bright purple like 100+ nitrate then check for nitrite, because even small amount of Nitrite will look like 100ppm Nitrate. And because you already have nitrite test just wait NO2 to become 0 and then test for nitrate.

 

[SteveMM62Reef]

Vodka Dosing on my recently set up 120 Gallon and Oceanic just made my Bacteria Blooms worse. On my well established 65 Gallon, it is working great, really reduced the GHA, without harming my Corals, or Macro Algaes. Right now I have leveled out at 8 ml for actual water volume of 62 gallons.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

As others have noted, the nitrite is a substantial interference with nitrate testing. Might be better to just wait until nitrite is undetectable to test nitrate.

 

[lmfbs]

As others have noted, the nitrite is a substantial interference with nitrate testing. Might be better to just wait until nitrite is undetectable to test nitrate.

Thanks - not surprisingly, my nitrite levels have fallen significantly today, and my nitrite fell way more than I expected - sitting at about 5ppm according the salifert test. I don't necessarily trust it but I was interested.

It's interesting that they don't mention this at all in their collateral. I wonder how many people not as fortunate as I to have this great forum have been tricked by this and have done all sorts of things to their tank to try to deal with a non-existent problem.