Display Tank to QT

Curelessjr

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I'm getting a new larger tank, so, my plan is to roll my current 25g DT into a QT.

I've added new fish from my LFS that get copper treatment (how good the treatment actually is IDK) and have just been using my tank as an observation QT.

However in the off chance, or perhaps likely chance, what medication would work in a fully cycled tank?

- 25g
- Rockwork, sand, and biomedia
- UV filtration
- Currently no coral, but would eventually like to use it as a coral QT as well.
 
I'm getting a new larger tank, so, my plan is to roll my current 25g DT into a QT.

I've added new fish from my LFS that get copper treatment (how good the treatment actually is IDK) and have just been using my tank as an observation QT.

However in the off chance, or perhaps likely chance, what medication would work in a fully cycled tank?

- 25g
- Rockwork, sand, and biomedia
- UV filtration
- Currently no coral, but would eventually like to use it as a coral QT as well.
Always assume the fish have something and do your own quarantine. You will find many stores use low dose copper for two weeks which is insufficient as coppersafe and copper power start to work at 2.0 ppm. Rock and sand in the 25g is advised to be removed as they absorb medication. Maintain biomedia
 
I'm getting a new larger tank, so, my plan is to roll my current 25g DT into a QT.

I've added new fish from my LFS that get copper treatment (how good the treatment actually is IDK) and have just been using my tank as an observation QT.

However in the off chance, or perhaps likely chance, what medication would work in a fully cycled tank?

- 25g
- Rockwork, sand, and biomedia
- UV filtration
- Currently no coral, but would eventually like to use it as a coral QT as well.

Using a tank as a fish AND a coral QT at the same time isn’t possible, and doing that first fish and then coral could be done, but it is a LOT of work.

Copper treatments can leave residue that can harm coral later on. Hyposalinity would work, you could raise the salinity later on and still be able to use the tank for coral.

Here is our current fish quarantine protocol:
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/current-quarantine-protocol.825055/
Jay
 
I see the wisdom in removing the sand and starting over depending on the circumstances. I cannot speak to Salt because I never saw the negative side of not changing it. I rescued a 40 and just without knowing anything and not aware of this forum just changed it. The friend of my son was a huge dosing guy. On my freshwater I cleaned the sand every week with a syphon set up. When I lost all my fish I emptied the sand out and got gallons of almost black water. As far as your UV IF repeat IF because I researched the snot out of UV lights because I want to add one on my new build ( Sumpless set up ) the light has to be UVC for the proper wavelength, You have to realize a light with a rated ( which is always what manufacturers do ) bulb of say 25 watts only has an output of 35% of that so 8 watts say. Has to be set up with the proper flow to deal with parasites ( algae has a much Higher flow rate ). Even if that is perfect which apparently a lot of people do the set up wrong wrong. A UV damages the DNA to stop them from reproducing but does not eliminate them if the environment suits them so the light only controls them. Like I said this is research not from my deep knowledge of Testing . Therefore you if you have parasites will still have parasites so again change the sand. Its only a forty.

Again you have already been warned about using it as a dual purpose Tank. Which I see logically only not a chemist. I also suck at running a QT and will never try again as I killed a fish because of my ignorance. I used Paul Bs observation guidelines and added my 6 fish all at the same time. Plus my LFS is owned by one person who then has a vested interest in keeping his reputation intact. He would not let me take one fish because he just got them, and wanted to do his thing first. You wont get that in a Store with 18 year old jimmy working on weekends with his vast knowledge no matter what his good intensions are. Which is Exactly how I lost 14 fish I had for years and most born in my tank. All over food recommendation. He not knowing my cichlids could not eat meat or fish based food
 

HOW MUCH DOES A FISH’S FEEDING REQUIREMENTS AFFECT YOUR STOCKING DECISIONS?

  • A lot! - I avoid fish that require frequent or specialized feeding

    Votes: 18 34.0%
  • Quite a bit, but an automatic feeder can change my answer

    Votes: 7 13.2%
  • It depends on whether my nutrient export can handle it

    Votes: 8 15.1%
  • It depends on how badly I want the fish

    Votes: 11 20.8%
  • Not much. I’m willing to adjust my routine

    Votes: 9 17.0%
  • Not at all. Feeding demands don’t limit my stocking choices

    Votes: 8 15.1%
  • I usually learn about the demanding feeding schedule after buying the fish!

    Votes: 2 3.8%
  • I haven’t really considered this before

    Votes: 4 7.5%
  • Something else (see my comments in the thread)

    Votes: 2 3.8%
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