DIY AI Hydra 26 Light Diffuser

._Z_.

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Full disclosure: I copied this design from a couple others online, but I was unable to find a good parts list or instructions so I’m writing some here.

First some pictures:
f0aee169ce7deea07383f4fa4891a08a.jpg

622b3b1b67421c6da3e6c41642fddc33.jpg

c467365d91d96a6fb9961b689fac118f.jpg


This diffuser was super easy to make. It’s just a piece of sanded acrylic and some panel standoffs. The difference it makes really is night and day but hard to capture with phone camera. The disco ball effect is almost completely gone and I’m sure I’m getting much better spread and blending of the light.

I think I spent around $20, with enough parts left to make a second if I wanted. I wish the panel standoffs were black to match the light, and maybe slightly taller to increase diffusion. I think this same method should work for the hydra 52.

PARTS LIST:
*1/8” Acrylic panel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004DYW31I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KrigBbPPWCG0A
*(4) 1/2” x 1” Panel standoffs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079FNSBBR?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
*(4) 6-32 x 1” machine screw.

TOOLS LIST:
*Drill & drill bits. (Drill bits meant for use on plastic/acrylic would probably make life easier)
*Sand paper. (I used 120, 150, 180 grit, in that order)
*Precision screwdriver. (It must be narrow enough to go through the threaded hole in your standoff, see pic below)
*Razor blade
*Tape measure

ecea1f8130487843dd6b21f816246b1d.jpg

6631988425a7fe630a5fc1e5cdd10549.jpg


INSTRUCTIONS:
Using score & snap (or your own method), cut your acrylic to the size of your light. For the hydra 26 I ended up at 7 1/4” x 5 3/8”. Score and snap just means to use your razor blade to cut a line in (or score) your acrylic sheet. Then place the sheet on a table score side up with the score lined up with the edge of the table (meaning part of your sheet is hanging off). While holding the sheet on the counter/table, downward karate chop the side hanging off. The result should be a perfect cut along your score line. You should probably wear gloves and safety glasses I suppose. Be sure to do this one cut at a time. This method worked perfectly with my 12x12 sheet.
Next sand one side of your acrylic as much as you’d like, I used 120,150,180 grit. I’m not sure if sanding both sides would be necessary or useful.
Next measure and mark your acrylic for drilling holes. We’re going to use the existing screw holes that are on the light for mounting the standoffs, the screws that come with the light are too short however. I believe I measured and marked my holes at 6 5/8” x 4 3/4”.
Next VERY CAREFULLY drill your holes. This was the most tedious part to me. Definitely practice on a scrap piece of acrylic as this stuff likes to chip and crack. I’m told using drill bits meant for acrylic makes this much easier. What I did to prevent cracking was start with a 3mm bit and work up to 8.5mm. It was a huge pain but got me where I wanted. I made the holes a little big because my measurements were rough.
Here’s mine just before mounting.
b7d48ce0a33220bd483ac135d040c8b0.jpg

Mounting the diffuser is straight forward. Remove the old screws from your light fixture and use the new ones to mount the base of the standoffs, next place your diffuser and screw in the tops to the standoffs and you’re good to go.

Lastly I increased my light settings by 15% (e.g. 75 became 87%).

Hope this was useful!
6a3bf109dc5a039055b78bba69827a25.jpg

(Excuse my cyano)
ec7592ad97cedbc0b9e615edec934e1e.jpg
 

Sleepydoc

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Awesome write up - Thanks for sharing!

I’ve wondered if one could simply sand some acrylic to get the same effect. Evidently one can! Have you measured the PAR drop from your diffuser?

The beauty of this is you can do it for pretty much any light, and any hardware store will have the necessary parts
 
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._Z_.

._Z_.

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Awesome write up - Thanks for sharing!

I’ve wondered if one could simply sand some acrylic to get the same effect. Evidently one can! Have you measured the PAR drop from your diffuser?

The beauty of this is you can do it for pretty much any light, and any hardware store will have the necessary parts

I have not measured the PAR drop as I don’t have a meter. That’s a somewhat important data point I wish I had :(

Certainly any light with exposed screws can be used as panel standoff attachment point, I’d be interested in seeing if others have done this on other lights.

Glad you enjoyed!
 
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._Z_.

._Z_.

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Ive been able to take some par measurements with my new seneye. I turned off pumps so I could get a stable number, and I chose two spots to take before and after readings, one spot is the sandbed in the middle of the tank, the other is at the middle top of the tank about 6” below water level.

Sandbed no diffuser: 175
Sandbed with diffuser: 112
Top no diffuser: 329
Top with diffuser: 201

I should also mention that I noticed without the diffuser there seems to be a pretty serious hot spot, which gets reduced with the diffuser back on. Probably not a big problem for those running multiple lights.

Based on these results I went ahead and turned my lights up another 25%

Here’s my current settings
41120801ce34a097c89272a1a5c08a1a.png


Hope this helps!
 

Sleepydoc

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wow - 35-40% drop in PAR is pretty significant. Seems higher than other diffuser numbers I've seen. 25% sticks in my mind. What have others seen?
 
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._Z_.

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wow - 35-40% drop in PAR is pretty significant. Seems higher than other diffuser numbers I've seen. 25% sticks in my mind. What have others seen?

I’m surprised to see such a drastic drop too. Maybe I sanded too much or maybe I just need more hang time with the new meter.
 

Sleepydoc

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One thing I noticed when I looked at the 'official' diffuser that Ecotech sells was that they include a white surround that goes around the LEDs. I'm sure this is to try and re-capture light that is reflected up by the diffuser. It would be interesting to see what the PAR difference is with and without that white surround piece.
 

mcarroll

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Sandbed no diffuser: 175
Sandbed with diffuser: 112
Top no diffuser: 329
Top with diffuser: 201

Ran across this again and had a thought....

112/175 = .64
201/329 = .61

Your diffusers did not drop the amount of light going into the tank by 40%.

The amount of light entering the meter may have dropped by 40%.

That meter is peculiar in how narrow it's lens is...something like 30º if I recall correctly.

Even "normal" light meters still only measure light from "UP" not from the sides or down.

I'm not sure what material you used in your diffuser, but I assumed frosted acrylic. Yours appears to be around 1/8" thick.

http://www.alro.com/datapdf/plastics/plasticsbrochures/brochure_plexfrosted.pdf

...that seems to indicate that you could expect about from 88-90% transmittance, or about 12% loss.

IMO the difference of (40% - 12% =) 28% is entering the tank the same as before, only at angles too oblique for the seneye to catch.

As long as this oblique light isn't being cast over the edge of the tank out into the room, then it's going into the tank.

The good thing is that your corals will use light in 360º even if we can't/don't measure it that way. ;)

 
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._Z_.

._Z_.

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Your diffusers did not drop the amount of light going into the tank by 40%.

The amount of light entering the meter may have dropped by 40%.

Very insightful, thanks for that explanation! What you’re saying coincides with the behavior I have seen from the seneye, in that the measurements are very dependent on the orientation of the meter.

It’s probably safe to say the loss from the diffuser is at least 10% and at absolute most 40%, but unlikely it’s truly this high. I’d wager that 20-25% loss in par is a good estimate.
 

iTread

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Anyone try a modified version of this with Radions XR30s? Or have a good link to that? I can't find one.
 

Gary Ellis

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Full disclosure: I copied this design from a couple others online, but I was unable to find a good parts list or instructions so I’m writing some here.
Are you still using the diffusers and do you still recommend them?
First some pictures:
f0aee169ce7deea07383f4fa4891a08a.jpg

622b3b1b67421c6da3e6c41642fddc33.jpg

c467365d91d96a6fb9961b689fac118f.jpg


This diffuser was super easy to make. It’s just a piece of sanded acrylic and some panel standoffs. The difference it makes really is night and day but hard to capture with phone camera. The disco ball effect is almost completely gone and I’m sure I’m getting much better spread and blending of the light.

I think I spent around $20, with enough parts left to make a second if I wanted. I wish the panel standoffs were black to match the light, and maybe slightly taller to increase diffusion. I think this same method should work for the hydra 52.

PARTS LIST:
*1/8” Acrylic panel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004DYW31I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KrigBbPPWCG0A
*(4) 1/2” x 1” Panel standoffs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079FNSBBR?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
*(4) 6-32 x 1” machine screw.

TOOLS LIST:
*Drill & drill bits. (Drill bits meant for use on plastic/acrylic would probably make life easier)
*Sand paper. (I used 120, 150, 180 grit, in that order)
*Precision screwdriver. (It must be narrow enough to go through the threaded hole in your standoff, see pic below)
*Razor blade
*Tape measure

ecea1f8130487843dd6b21f816246b1d.jpg

6631988425a7fe630a5fc1e5cdd10549.jpg


INSTRUCTIONS:
Using score & snap (or your own method), cut your acrylic to the size of your light. For the hydra 26 I ended up at 7 1/4” x 5 3/8”. Score and snap just means to use your razor blade to cut a line in (or score) your acrylic sheet. Then place the sheet on a table score side up with the score lined up with the edge of the table (meaning part of your sheet is hanging off). While holding the sheet on the counter/table, downward karate chop the side hanging off. The result should be a perfect cut along your score line. You should probably wear gloves and safety glasses I suppose. Be sure to do this one cut at a time. This method worked perfectly with my 12x12 sheet.
Next sand one side of your acrylic as much as you’d like, I used 120,150,180 grit. I’m not sure if sanding both sides would be necessary or useful.
Next measure and mark your acrylic for drilling holes. We’re going to use the existing screw holes that are on the light for mounting the standoffs, the screws that come with the light are too short however. I believe I measured and marked my holes at 6 5/8” x 4 3/4”.
Next VERY CAREFULLY drill your holes. This was the most tedious part to me. Definitely practice on a scrap piece of acrylic as this stuff likes to chip and crack. I’m told using drill bits meant for acrylic makes this much easier. What I did to prevent cracking was start with a 3mm bit and work up to 8.5mm. It was a huge pain but got me where I wanted. I made the holes a little big because my measurements were rough.
Here’s mine just before mounting.
b7d48ce0a33220bd483ac135d040c8b0.jpg

Mounting the diffuser is straight forward. Remove the old screws from your light fixture and use the new ones to mount the base of the standoffs, next place your diffuser and screw in the tops to the standoffs and you’re good to go.

Lastly I increased my light settings by 15% (e.g. 75 became 87%).

Hope this was useful!
6a3bf109dc5a039055b78bba69827a25.jpg

(Excuse my cyano)
ec7592ad97cedbc0b9e615edec934e1e.jpg
 

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