DIY LED Assistance Needed

[CCK_8814]

So the V+ wire from power supply goes to the 24v Pin on driver? The single channel driver is still powering on/turns on LEDs but one of the chips start to smoke shortly after power is applied to the led. The dual channel does nothing.

 

[stefanm]

So the V+ wire from power supply goes to the 24v Pin on driver? The single channel driver is still powering on/turns on LEDs but one of the chips start to smoke shortly after power is applied to the led. The dual channel does nothing.

Yes, definitely damaged you could swap out the components or ask steve to do it.

 

[CCK_8814]

Yes, definitely damaged you could swap out the components or ask steve to do it.

Will probably just order new drivers as cheap as they are.

 

[cooltowncorals]

V+ to 24v
5v to dim (jumper)
V-to ground
Potential meter in POT
Led +- to led chip +-

 

[CCK_8814]

V+ to 24v
5v to dim (jumper)
V-to ground
Potential meter in POT
Led +- to led chip +-

Best guess the reason it’s smoking when wired this way? Drivers just smoked? Or multiple LEDs need to be connected before running led wires from driver to LEDs?

 

[Jacked Reefer]

So sorry this happened. All was new could send pics of reciepts. I got one led working with the single. I used the dim as the negative, plus 24v as positive. Any of the grounds work.

 

[CCK_8814]

So sorry this happened. All was new could send pics of reciepts. I got one led working with the single. I used the dim as the negative, plus 24v as positive. Any of the grounds work.

No worries it happens! I can still get the LEDs to light up with the single but the chip smokes. So you’re saying you ran wire from V- on power supply to the DIM Pin & the V+ on power supply to the 24v Pin? What wire did you put to the Ground Pin?

 

[User1]

I would also suggest adding those drivers to a heat sink. They get hot. You may have one somewhere but in the picture it seems like it is on a board or cardboard - fire hazard.

 

[WallyB]

Hi there.
I am trying to catch up on this thread.

First of all it appears you have CURRENT DRIVER(s) modules to run your LEDs, and a POWER SUPPLY.

CURRENT DRIVERS are designed at a Certain Voltage will Keep the Voltage UP, no matter how many LED's you wired in series. YOU CONTROL THE CURRENT to DIM, not the VOLTAGE.

So if you put 1 LED on the Power Supply. It will fry it INSTANTLY since Voltage across on LED it Too much at the Set CURRENT.

SO BEFORE YOU HOOK UP THE POWER SUPPLY, all the LEDS need to be wired together. Not too many (or too dim, or won't light up), and CERTAINLY not less (since they will FRY)..

You need to wired up the proper amount of LEDS in series, and they need to be wired (+) to (-) back to back, till you have the proper amount of LEDS in a series chain, that Add up to the Voltage of the power Supply (THE CURRENT DRIVER).

Then when all LED's are wired together, you can connect the (+) from the Power Supply and same for the (-) ACROSS THE WHOLE CHAIN of LEDS (first to Last LED). Not across one LED.

In the PHOTO of LEDs on Heat sink, it appears none of the LED's are wired (JOINED together in series) so they are all separate LEDS. Hooking up Power to any single one will fry that LED.

....and I just noticed in the picture, one of the Transitors on one Power MOdule is fried, so if you need another. But you could run less LED's on one.


HERE IS what I mean by wiring in Series (THE PROPER # of LEDS).

 

[WallyB]

Below is what your wiring of LEDS will be like.

But you still need to get the # of LEDs correct. It will depend on how many drivers you will use, etc.

This should give you an idea of what I mean.

I am showing this more so you understand things.

THE wiring example above, show all LEDs hooked up in series.
You could hook up multiple series in leds, to control blues, white, etc separately, however you still need MORE THAN one LED, and the Power control module(s) set properly.

I am not familiar with the Power Module, so you need a specification and wiring diagram.

Then once wired correctly with proper # of LEDS, you can hook up the POT to trim the dimming.

You need to learn a lot more, or else you can start a fire, or hurt/kill yourself or someone you care about.

Please take the time to learn and not try to HACK your way to get this to work.

 

[WallyB]

Please be careful.....

The MAIN POWER UNIT you have is wide open, and that should be INSTALL in a proper location (Far away from SALT WATER....Any water, etc), with proper ventilation, water Proofing.

It should be plugged into a Ground Fault Circuit Breaker to Prevent ELECTROCUTION.

Even water splashing into the Power Supply box, could KILL you or someone else.

Sorry if you know what you are doing, and I'm am overly cautious.

 

[CCK_8814]

Please be careful.....

The MAIN POWER UNIT you have is wide open, and that should be INSTALL in a proper location (Far away from SALT WATER....Any water, etc), with proper ventilation, water Proofing.

It should be plugged into a Ground Fault Circuit Breaker to Prevent ELECTROCUTION.

Even water splashing into the Power Supply box, could KILL you or someone else.

Sorry if you know what you are doing, and I'm am overly cautious.

Thanks for all your input! To answer few questions, when I was testing 6 LEDs were wired (exactly as shown above). I believe I traced the main issue back to the dual channel driver as when the single channel is wired correctly the LEDs work as they should however the potentiometer doesn’t seem to be working. I didn’t have much time to mess with it today but will try to tomorrow. I have a decent idea of what I’m doing, at least I like to think so lol. I’m a systems and electrical integration engineer for GM. Now what I do there and what I’m doing with this are obviously night and day. I’m working on trying to source a new dual channel driver locally to try and complete the wiring of everything before making all the wiring permanent since I’m fairly confident the single channel driver will not support all 17 LEDs but not only that I’d like to have 2 channels similar to just about every other led light out there.

 

[WallyB]

V+ to 24v
5v to dim (jumper)
V-to ground
Potential meter in POT
Led +- to led chip +-

NO that is not TRUE.

V- is just THE DC VOLTAGE (Negative), while V+ is the DC Voltage (Positive)

COM IS the ZERO voltage.

THE GROUND is totally separate on the Power Supply and mean for the HIGH 110V Side of the power supply.

So please don't provide information unless you are absolutely sure.

 

[CCK_8814]

NO that is not TRUE.

V- is just THE DC VOLTAGE (Negative), while V+ is the DC Voltage (Positive)

COM IS the ZERO voltage.

THE GROUND is totally separate on the Power Supply and mean for the HIGH 110V Side of the power supply.

So please don't provide information unless you are absolutely sure.

So can you provide some insight as to how it should be wired? The only diagram I’ve been able to find are these and I still haven’t received a response from Steve’s LEDs for an exact diagram yet.

 

[WallyB]

Thanks for all your input! To answer few questions, when I was testing 6 LEDs were wired (exactly as shown above). I believe I traced the main issue back to the dual channel driver as when the single channel is wired correctly the LEDs work as they should however the potentiometer doesn’t seem to be working. I didn’t have much time to mess with it today but will try to tomorrow. I have a decent idea of what I’m doing, at least I like to think so lol. I’m a systems and electrical integration engineer for GM. Now what I do there and what I’m doing with this are obviously night and day. I’m working on trying to source a new dual channel driver locally to try and complete the wiring of everything before making all the wiring permanent since I’m fairly confident the single channel driver will not support all 17 LEDs but not only that I’d like to have 2 channels similar to just about every other led light out there.

Ok. So you know electricity and LEDS. Some people don't.

Some Current Trim Power modules will work simply with a POT to vary the resistance. Which in essence is the same as controlling with a 0-5 Volt input.

But you do see that one of your modules is fried. Transistor.

Looks like you still may be able to salvage a two channel setup. Since one module looks fine and the 2nd one is half fine. (I hope)

 

[CCK_8814]

Ok. So you know electricity and LEDS. Some people don't.

Some Current Trim Power modules will work simply with a POT to vary the resistance. Which in essence is the same as controlling with a 0-5 Volt input.

But you do see that one of your modules is fried. Transistor.

Looks like you still may be able to salvage a two channel setup. Since one module looks fine and the 2nd one is half fine. (I hope)

Actually the 2 channel is the one that’s dead, the single will still power and run 6 LEDs without issue. When wired, the led on dual channel doesn’t turn on indicating it’s working (which might be due to being wired wrong based on your previous comment).

 

[WallyB]

So can you provide some insight as to how it should be wired? The only diagram I’ve been able to find are these and I still haven’t received a response from Steve’s LEDs for an exact diagram yet.

The WIRING lines you show are correct.

But in the picture of wires things look wrong.

(v+) is your Positive Voltage
(COM) is your Zero or Floating Ground.

Those two (+) (COM) should go to your module Voltage INPUT

even without the POT, or +5 control, the LED's should light up (From each Module LED (+) (-)

Most likely a FULL BRIGHTNESS till you add the TRIM pot.
SO PUT ASIDE DIMMING, till you get your LEDs to work at full brightness.

But if any LED is burned out, it won't since the series path is broken.

You can test each led with a simple 3V power source. Two AA batteris hooked up in series, with a resistor.

 

[CCK_8814]

The WIRING line you show are correct.

(v+) is your Positive Voltage
(COM) is your Zero or Floating Ground.

Those two (+) (COM) should go to your module Voltage INPUT

even without the POT, or +5 control, the LED's should light up (From each Module LED (+) (-)

Most likely a FULL BRIGHTNESS till you add the TRIM pot.

But if any LED is burned out, it won't since the series path is broken.

You can test each led with a simple 3V power source. Two AA batteris hooked up in series, with a resistor.

Even with the potentiometer wired in and the 6 led string power on I was not getting any dimming control from it. They appeared to be on at what I’m guessing is full power.

 

[CCK_8814]

The WIRING lines you show are correct.

But in the picture of wires things look wrong.

(v+) is your Positive Voltage
(COM) is your Zero or Floating Ground.

Those two (+) (COM) should go to your module Voltage INPUT

even without the POT, or +5 control, the LED's should light up (From each Module LED (+) (-)

Most likely a FULL BRIGHTNESS till you add the TRIM pot.
SO PUT ASIDE DIMMING, till you get your LEDs to work at full brightness.

But if any LED is burned out, it won't since the series path is broken.

You can test each led with a simple 3V power source. Two AA batteris hooked up in series, with a resistor.

Also would you say the 24V pin or DIM pin on the driver is the voltage input that goes from power supply to the driver?

 

[WallyB]

Let's take a step back. And troubleshoot properly.

1) So you have 6 LED series chain that works.
2) You have one SINGLE module that works (full brightness)

Correct?

We can tackle the 2nd DUAL module and diming next.