DIY stand 72" long without center support

[piranhaman00]

I’m currently building my stand using this model, you guys are saying I can remove the two middle braces? I would like that to acces sump easier haha, 46 “ tall stand

 

[a4edwin]

They are less expensive.I built mine for a 48”x20” tank used 2x6 on top no middle brace

 

[Valhalla Reefer]

That thing is perfect!

Thanks!

 

[Hot2na]

there was a company called surgarium...many yrs ago ..that made stands with no center brace ..some of them were real long ..8ft ? i think...long out of business ,though

 

[Oberst Hajj]

I've got a few questions concerning the RE build method:

1. Was it ever determined if using pocket screws (Kreg jig) to attach the top and bottom frames to the purple boards was strong enough to not have to use the green screw boards? My stand will be skinned in either 1/4" or 1/2" Baltic birch.

2. My tank will be either 235g (72x30x25) or a 220g (84x24x25). Based on the plans as designed, I need to use 2x8 for the top frame. If I was to put two supports along the front so that the middle span would be no longer than 40" (so the front would have a 22" / 40" / 22" set of spans on the 84" tank), could I use 2x6s instead of 2x8? I'd reinforce the back the same way.

Thanks for your help and time,

Keith

 

[Lingwendil]

Personally if skinning it I wouldn't even bother with the screw boards if you're using pocket screws, especially if you're gluing.

 

[Oberst Hajj]

Personally if skinning it I wouldn't even bother with the screw boards if you're using pocket screws, especially if you're gluing.

Thanks. I'll be gluing and the bottom will be skinned as well. The bottom being skinned will allow the sump to sit about 3 inches lower and I can seal the bottom to catch any spills.

 

[redfishbluefish]

I've been asked the following question through PM, and thought it was beneficial posting the question/reply here because others could potentially have the same issue:

"Using your build as template, on my stand I have small <1/16” spaces between purple and red boards, is that issue? I kind of see space on your actual image as well."

The purple boards transfer the weight to the lower frame....so yes, it must be in contact with the top frame. If not, the screws/fastners are now supporting the weight of the tank.....and you don't want that. All is not lost...it can be fixed.....two potential fixes.

FIX 1: Pick up a pack of wood shims. Now take two of these and from either sides of the purple board, where it should be contacting the red board, tap them in equally using a hammer, thin end in first. You're now good to go! Here's an example of what I'm talking about, with a big gap between purple and red so you can see the shims. Using a utility knife, cut off the excess shim by first scoring and then snapping it off.

FIX 2: Remove the screws from the green board into the upper frame (hopefully they are screws and it's not glued) and now with weight on the upper frame, re-screw the green board to the red board. I'd use new locations for the screws so that they don't "follow" the old holes.


Now, the way I actually assemble these stands is that I screw the green boards to the lower frame and then, with good contact of the purple boards in contact with the lower frame, the purples are screwed to the greens. With the upper frame assembled, that is now placed over the upright legs, and with weight on the upper frame, the greens are screwed to the upper frame.

Hope this helps.

 

[DaddyFish]

I am currently working on a 72x24x36 stand that is also a peninsula cabinet going in my living room area. I want a cleaner look to the exterior so I'm skinning it with 3/4 maple plywood.
However, I got lucky and picked up some 3/8x1.5 316 stainless bars at an excellent price and incorporated them into adjoining dado joints of the 2x8 horizontal member and 3/4 facia. Here's a drawing of the upper detail ...

I have not finished the stand yet, but the front and back beams are completed. I used high strength construction adhesive and 2" ss screws to fasten the facia/skin to the 2x8 headers. A little c-clamp pressure and everything "snapped" right into place and created a super-strong and rigid horizontal frame member that spans the full 72" without additional support.

Let me be clear, I'm not casting any doubt on RE's design. My problem was that quality lumber is just too darn difficult to find locally so I "enhanced" the design for my own satisfaction. Showing it here as a possibility for someone wishing to invest the additional time and materials. The dado cuts are easy with a quality dado blade set and table saw.

Here's a front view drawing showing the 58x23.5 opening and some other details (the dotted interior lines show solid here, making it a bit confusing) ...

The left end will have an interior bulkhead/panel to create an end compartment for electrical.
The facia panels overhang the interior frame by 1-1/2" and are pattern cut to match the baseboard so the whole thing sits neatly against the wall on the right end. (Remember it's a peninsula)

(Not clearly shown as interior elements) I'm using cornered 2x4 posts on the right end and cornered 2x4/2x8 posts on the left end (the typical Rocket Engineer proven design).

 

[piranhaman00]

I've been asked the following question through PM, and thought it was beneficial posting the question/reply here because others could potentially have the same issue:

"Using your build as template, on my stand I have small <1/16” spaces between purple and red boards, is that issue? I kind of see space on your actual image as well."

The purple boards transfer the weight to the lower frame....so yes, it must be in contact with the top frame. If not, the screws/fastners are now supporting the weight of the tank.....and you don't want that. All is not lost...it can be fixed.....two potential fixes.

FIX 1: Pick up a pack of wood shims. Now take two of these and from either sides of the purple board, where it should be contacting the red board, tap them in equally using a hammer, thin end in first. You're now good to go! Here's an example of what I'm talking about, with a big gap between purple and red so you can see the shims. Using a utility knife, cut off the excess shim by first scoring and then snapping it off.

FIX 2: Remove the screws from the green board into the upper frame (hopefully they are screws and it's not glued) and now with weight on the upper frame, re-screw the green board to the red board. I'd use new locations for the screws so that they don't "follow" the old holes.


Now, the way I actually assemble these stands is that I screw the green boards to the lower frame and then, with good contact of the purple boards in contact with the lower frame, the purples are screwed to the greens. With the upper frame assembled, that is now placed over the upright legs, and with weight on the upper frame, the greens are screwed to the upper frame.

Hope this helps.

What do you use for weights?

 

[Aquaskape]

This is what I ended up building for my rimless tank.
Used a total of six 2x6.

 

[RocketEngineer]

More than enough.

 

[piranhaman00]

Do you need the cross braces on the bottom or top?

 

[piranhaman00]

@RocketEngineer is being way too modest (or he doesn't wish to divulge his age ), because years ago he came up with a DIY design that has since been used by thousands of DIY'ers.....me included. Here is his original design using dimensional lumber....no center brace needed:

And here is my five foot stand (before skinning with plywood):

So please, with confidence, believe @RocketEngineer .....he knows what he's talking about!

Do you need the horizontal braces that you have two on bottom and one on top?

 

[don_chuwish]

Do you need the horizontal braces that you have two on bottom and one on top?

How long is that stand? Looks like you could do with just one in the top and one in the bottom. Just a little extra support for the plywood layer that'll go on top. Could even use 2x4 instead of 2x6 - give yourself a little more headroom inside.

 

[piranhaman00]

How long is that stand? Looks like you could do with just one in the top and one in the bottom. Just a little extra support for the plywood layer that'll go on top. Could even use 2x4 instead of 2x6 - give yourself a little more headroom inside.

No plywood is going on the sides, only on the top, I was planning on setting the sump on the floor, with the cross braces it will have to sit on top of them.

 

[don_chuwish]

No plywood is going on the sides, only on the top, I was planning on setting the sump on the floor, with the cross braces it will have to sit on top of them.

Sitting on the floor might be fine - but what is the floor? Inevitably salt creep and some salt water will find it's way out of the sump. Keeping it contained in the stand is how most people approach the issue. Of course if it's just a concrete garage floor then it may not be worth worrying about.

 

[DaddyFish]

No plywood is going on the sides, only on the top, I was planning on setting the sump on the floor, with the cross braces it will have to sit on top of them.

Compromise and split the 2x4s into 2x2 for the crossbraces? That way you aren't setting the sump directly on the floor and you aren't losing as much interior height, or lay the 2x4s flat.

 

[piranhaman00]

Sitting on the floor might be fine - but what is the floor? Inevitably salt creep and some salt water will find it's way out of the sump. Keeping it contained in the stand is how most people approach the issue. Of course if it's just a concrete garage floor then it may not be worth worrying about.

Not worried about salt creep on floor.

Compromise and split the 2x4s into 2x2 for the crossbraces? That way you aren't setting the sump directly on the floor and you aren't losing as much interior height, or lay the 2x4s flat.

I’m not worried about losing height. I just did not want to need to use plywood as the floor. If I use braces I will need a plywood layer for sump and ato reservoir to sit on.

 

[RocketEngineer]

The cross brace in the original picture is there to keep the top boards from twisting over time, nothing more, nothing less. It’s not required structurally, merely preventative.